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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've done some searching on this forum and teh Googles, but haven't found a good description (or better yet-- a video) of how to remove the plastics that run along the side of the wagon. I tried prying one section away but there are 3 fasteners holding it on near it's vertical center. I fashioned a y shaped pry bar to try to pull them out from the top but they will not let go and I already partially broke one. I am afraid to simply pull harder on the plastic.

I should clarify this is the plastic directly below the windows. The flat panels near the floor look straightforward except that this plastic piece needs to come off first since it overlaps the lower section.

I'm looking for a place to bolt a cabinet. I'd rear there are M8x1.25 bolt holes but shining a flashligh around behind the plastic I don't see any...
 

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sorry cant help you myself. Is there anything behind those plastic panels, like insulation or something, or its just air and lost space?

also out of curiosity could you just cut small holes in the plastic panels directly where you want to bolt your cabinet, with the cabinet itself resting on the rest on the plastic panels instead of directly on the metal wall?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I was planning on cutting holes in the plastic, once I figured out where the bolt holes are :) It's impossible to measure or take a good look without getting the plastic off. I can pull it away from the wall a bit, but hard to sort out whats going on with a maybe 2" hole to look down into.
 

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I see. I'm a newb so dont know much, but I'll probably be trying to do the same in a few months when I get my Wagon van, so will be following your progress.

Could it help to look at a cargo van of the same wheel base length, roof height, side doors as your van, or would the anchor points be different? Maybe if someone with a RV/motorhome/builder package could give you exact measurements, or they can be found in the BEMM or some other manual? Just trying to see what the options are.
 

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I have removed and reinstalled most of the plastic, and headliners in my XLT wagon. It's not that hard, you need to understand how they are layered, and work up,or down as necessary. Harbor Freight has a decent and inexpensive set of trim tools that will help. As far as holes for mounting things, yes there are many, and you can put your own in in most places. I used 1/4 20 riv nuts in my build.

Pull the panels from bottom up, and then pull up at the window areas, as they sort of clip over the flange in some places. Take your time and work slowly until you see how the clips work. Almost all simply clip into a round or slotted hole.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks, Brimflop. Did you insulate your van? I had an old school local place that sold me rolls of a non-branded asphalt material that worked great in my Sprinter. That was 3 years ago. When I drove by last week their building was now a fancy pants architecture company (welcome to the SF bay area). I'm not sure what to use now; I think I paid $300 for enough material for the entire Sprinter (except floor and firewall). The Sprinter was a lot noisier than the Transit though...
 

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I fully insulated both acoustic and thermal. Used stuff from quiet ride solutions, in your neck of the woods. They sent me van package, with dynamat and acoustic shield, with 3m glue and tape. Worked great. Also stuffed pink fiberglass in the many crooks n crannies.highly recommended. So, I did the entire roof, an all sides below the glass. A good improvement over a decent start by ford.
 

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I fully insulated both acoustic and thermal. Used stuff from quiet ride solutions, in your neck of the woods. They sent me van package, with dynamat and acoustic shield, with 3m glue and tape.
The acoustic insulation is mostly to reduce noise from the engine when driving, or noise from passing cars during city camping and partying ppl in camgrounds?

Thermal you were able to insulate between the ceiling and the roof? floor? I would think the windows would do as much for heat loss/heat gain (and noise) than the rest, do you insulate those with removable pieces of reflectix?
 

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The M8 bolt holes run in a line just under the windows (or where the windows would be), there's another line of them at the top of the windows. There's also M12? bolt holes above the wheel wells, and around the floor at various places where the D-rings are installed in a cargo van.

I'm using all of them for my no-drill, no rivnut (for now) build. Might add rivnuts if the need arises.
 
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