Ford Transit USA Forum banner
21 - 37 of 37 Posts

Registered
2020 High-Extended AWD EcoBoost Cargo with windows
Joined
4,005 Posts
Much as I appreciate the theory of the "chest holds more" premise... to fully load one is to have everything piled on top of everything else. So the chest might hold more in theory... but the upright might have more usable storage. 馃
 

Registered
Joined
6,983 Posts
Because it's easier to load a box from the top than from the side. For example, consider the upright in post #8 of this thread. See all that empty space in the door? No wasted space like that in a chest fridge.
I can fill all my space in my front opener if I want to do that. Just like a chest type, I would have to dig through all the stuff at the front to get to the stuff at the back. Same as a chest type where you have to remove the stuff on the top to get the stuff at the bottom.

Do not see much difference in capacity. Do not see where it is easier to load from top vs. the side. I prefer the front opener for access to the food and many prefer a chest type. Maybe that is why both types are sold. :)

I did learn that the type of condenser a refrigerator has does affect the efficiency. I had a 80 liter Dometic front opener installed in the Sprinter build. Changed to a 85 liter Vitrifrigo front opener in the Transit build. Changed because the Vitrifrigo had about double the freezer size because the compressor is located at the bottom back instead of the top back. Much to my surprise the Vitrifrigo uses about 1/3 less power. Both installed with same amount of extra insulation and same compressor. Both powered by the same model inverter and identical battery. Only major difference was the condenser design. Dometic had a coil on back of the refrigerator and the Vitrifrigo has a small radiator and fan instead of the coil. Vitrifrigo condenser is like a top opening refrigerator design.

I do understand that you can sit on a chest type and cannot sit on a front opener.
 

Registered
Transit Low Roof Crew 148鈥 T-350.
Joined
101 Posts
No problem activating an old thread - I prefer it myself.

My plan was to purchase a 48 volt refrigerator / freezer to match the battery pack in that van, which limits the options to a small number.

The van ended up getting totaled (like really totaled) by a pick up truck running a red light so right now I am sort of starting again from scratch.

We did retrieve the power system though since it was modular but it isn't currently in use.

I don't have a suggestion for you, but I did like the Truck fridge I think 130 ? series for 24 volt applications.

Others have more experience with specific refrigerators for 12 volt applications.
I recalled your van was totaled. Still sucks. Thanks for the response.
 

Registered
Joined
182 Posts
I bought a ARB ZERO 47 Quart chest type fridge for my Transit, which I have only use in my Jeep, when tent camping (still waiting for a Transit). I plan on mounting the ARB on its fridge slide at the slider door. One of the benefits of a chest fridge is that they are removalble (I have actually used it my house when I needed additional freezer space).

It is a sigle zone as I rarely need to keep food frozen while camping, but it will definitely run cold enough to freeze everything in it (suppose to cool down to -7F). Plus I have found that if you set the temp to just above freezing, the lower section actually stays cold enought to keep anything there frozen. It is VERY efficient and actually ran fine just off my Jeep battery when we were camping this summer and fall. Plus it has a built in battery protection system (with 3 settings) and was designed to be used in the Outback, so it is very durable.

My teardrop camper trailer had a built in upright fridge with a tiny freezer compartment, and even though it was a bit larger, the ARB definitely holds more and items do not move all over the place while driving, as it has removable baskets which also make it easy to get to everything.
 

Registered
22 Avalanche 148 AWD
Joined
413 Posts
My only issue with front loader is I'll be doing lots of wash board roads. With all the vibration I think the top loader would be better to just let the stuff bounce and settle in to where a front loader things would bounce around on the shelves. I like the idea of a front loader better but for this reason I'm leaning top loader.
 

Registered
Joined
597 Posts
But the space required to lift them out is wasted unless you find something to put there on top of the other stuff and not fall off. Same issue to a lesser degree on regular shelves with lips. Some designs are worse than others.

I'm just saying this is a factor to consider.

First trip after purchasing my Engel, I made this post:

"this 43-quart (40-liter, 1.4 cu ft) fridge held at one time starting out: 6 soft drinks, a gallon of milk, 6 eggs, 12 sausages, 6 muffins, 7-oz margarine tub, 2 12-oz jars jelly, 4 oz block of cheese, 15 cheese sticks, 8 oz sliced Swiss cheese, a full making of Kraft Mac&Cheese (in two containers), 6 oz meat loaf, about 6 oz ham, a head of lettuce, a green pepper, 4 radishes, 9 oz spinach (1.5 bags not smushed), 4 oz ranch dressing. The fridge was full, but not solidly packed--no special effort needed to make things fit."

Could you fit that in a 1.4 cu ft upright?
 

Registered
Joined
6,983 Posts
Could you fit that in a 1.4 cu ft upright?
My guess is a 1.4 cu ft front opener has the same capacity as a 1.4 cu ft chest type.

Nice we have a choice of front openers and chest types. That way we can purchase the type of refrigerator we prefer.
 

Registered
Joined
5,840 Posts
We've used a chest type thermoelectric cooler for almost 20 yrs of minivan road trips/camping. No doubt it is easier to pack densely than a front loader would be, but is a real PITA to access the contents and repack especially if cubed out. I am looking forward to having a front loader in the Transit for ease of access/organization. Grass is greener? Time will tell. We will use defined size square storage containers as well as some bins to facilitate storage density, keep stuff from moving around too much and to make access a bit easier. Bending down to access is not problem for us ... yet. When 2 people are cooking, one will need to back out of the galley at times to allow access. If we had a chest cooler mounted at counter height that would require clearing the counter for the oops items when prepping meals. No best option, choose your poison.

We source a fridge that gives us much more space/$ than the chest style or marine front loaders so storage density is less if an issue. (claimed 5.2 cu ft/ $500 - GE scratch and dent). It will need to be "modified" a bit to just fit between the C-pillar bump out and wheel well, but once done, it will completely fill out that under counter space., so no real loss of usable space vs the smaller units. Wish me luck. Unit is 34 1/8 H x 23 5/8 W x 23 3/4 D.

The freezer plate is a bit too high to fit ice cream containers. When I have it apart to modify/add insulation I will look to see if there is enough play in the coolant line to cheat it down an inch. If not possible we will just have to repack our ice cream into a smaller container. Unfortunately that may require some immediate consumption after purchase,
 

Registered
2020 High-Extended AWD EcoBoost Cargo with windows
Joined
4,005 Posts
My only issue with front loader is I'll be doing lots of wash board roads. With all the vibration I think the top loader would be better to just let the stuff bounce and settle in to where a front loader things would bounce around on the shelves. I like the idea of a front loader better but for this reason I'm leaning top loader.
Yeah... this may be a factor as well. I'm sure it can be accommodated in the upright; but we even keep extra bungies on our cabinets in case the door comes open - which /can/ happen on serious dirt journeys. We'll have a latched door come open then a latched sliding-shelf or drawer come sliding out... while navigating a rutted-up trail and wondering what the heck those noises in the back are. 馃槒

Of course, we've never had anything come loose or out-of-place in the chest setup - nowhere to go.
 

Registered
Joined
1,802 Posts
One would think that the optimal compromise would be an upright with mostly drawers. Not a very common configuration, though.
Since we're back into it, I strongly considered a drawer model for a boat where mounting it up high was not possible. I didn't want a chest for that location (I do own a few chest style though, so am familiar with them), so it was sit on the floor for a regular door model vs. the ease of opening the drawer from a standing position and just looking down into it.

I decided against the drawer though. My reasons may not apply to others but just as points to ponder:

1) It was considerably more expensive than an equivalent hinged-door model
2) It was considerably heavier (empty)
3) The drawer slides take up valuable space
4) There is not as much "door" storage which is one thing I really appreciate on a door model vs. a chest type
5) I couldn't stop thinking of trying to clean the slides and bearings if anything spilled, the refrigerator ever got moldy, etc. (these things happen).

@Slate
That probably wouldn't stop me buying a single low drawer like you are asking about though. Basically with that shape you can't even get a chest or hinged-door model to fit. The ones I was looking at were in the 60-130 liter range.
 

Registered
Joined
1 Posts
I鈥檓 new to this forum and I鈥檓 not sure if this is the platform, but I have a question about 12v fridge/freezer I just received mine in the mail and when I plugged it in everything seemed to be fine and the suddenly the fridge side stop working and the compressor started getting warm and was pulling over 100w on my jackets 1000. I鈥檓 not sure what is going on and would love to hear what any potential issues that may be causing this to happen,
 

Registered
nothing yet, but planning on an EV van
Joined
241 Posts
I鈥檓 new to this forum and I鈥檓 not sure if this is the platform, but I have a question about 12v fridge/freezer I just received mine in the mail and when I plugged it in everything seemed to be fine and the suddenly the fridge side stop working and the compressor started getting warm and was pulling over 100w on my jackets 1000. I鈥檓 not sure what is going on and would love to hear what any potential issues that may be causing this to happen,
might want to put in more info, 100w is fine for some fridges but too much for others and i don't know what a jackets is? inverter?
 
21 - 37 of 37 Posts
Top