[Happycamper123]

Hi, For more ventilation, I searched rear windows that can open. I only found this one:

VWD Ford Transit Van Slider Window - Medium,High Roof Driver Rear Cargo Door

Van Windows Direct VWD Driver Rear Cargo Door Slider Window Ford Transit Van - DIY, Camper Van, Van Life, Van Upfit. Best place to buy Van Windows. Van Windows Direct

www.vanwindowsdirect.com

That alone concerned me. I realize the windows are a bit curved so manufacture may be difficult. Then, there are no reviews on the site. I'd like to know if anyone has used these windows OR any other windows that open. If so, what was your experience? thanks

 

[emmjayski]

I added these RV style windows to my rear doors. I considered OEM style rear windows but since my layout has a fixed raised bed in the rear, almost half of the window would have been covered by the bed anyways. These were significantly less money and the area in the rear doors for windows is pretty flat, which accommodated these windows well.

15.5" Width x 17.5" Height Vertical Slider RV Window Cargo Trailer W/ Screen | eBay

 

[surly Bill]

Hi, For more ventilation, I searched rear windows that can open. I only found this one:

VWD Ford Transit Van Slider Window - Medium,High Roof Driver Rear Cargo Door

Van Windows Direct VWD Driver Rear Cargo Door Slider Window Ford Transit Van - DIY, Camper Van, Van Life, Van Upfit. Best place to buy Van Windows. Van Windows Direct

www.vanwindowsdirect.com

That alone concerned me. I realize the windows are a bit curved so manufacture may be difficult. Then, there are no reviews on the site. I'd like to know if anyone has used these windows OR any other windows that open. If so, what was your experience? thanks

If you are replacing factory windows, that's the best (only) opening rear door window I've seen. If you don't have any windows in your rear doors, the smaller universal fit windows like mentioned above will "work". Won't look the greatest, but with enough caulking they won't leak.

 

[[email protected]]

I added these RV style windows to my rear doors. I considered OEM style rear windows but since my layout has a fixed raised bed in the rear, almost half of the window would have been covered by the bed anyways. These were significantly less money and the area in the rear doors for windows is pretty flat, which accommodated these windows well.

15.5" Width x 17.5" Height Vertical Slider RV Window Cargo Trailer W/ Screen | eBay

Do you have any pictures of your install. I am considering opening windows for my rear doors and if you put these in the rear doors could you post pictures? Thanks.

 

[[email protected]]

I added rear awning style windows to my van this week (497x297 ~18”x12”). They are perfect for my E/W raised bed over inside bike garage.

 

[SSawyer]

I added rear awning style windows to my van this week (497x297 ~18”x12”). They are perfect for my E/W raised bed over inside bike garage.

View attachment 159362 View attachment 159363 View attachment 159364

Hi, I have been trying to find good opening windows for my new transit. I really like the look of yours. Can you tell me what they are? Thanks

 

[[email protected]]

Hi, I have been trying to find good opening windows for my new transit. I really like the look of yours. Can you tell me what they are? Thanks

They are from Wilderness Vans in Lethbridge AB (wildernessvans.com). Broad Arrow (497 x 297 Tinted). It is not shown in my pictures but they are mounted in a wooden frame and there is a window blind/screen that also comes with them that I installed. I had to notch out the wood frame for the Ford Transit inner door frame and I left the centre stiffener in place to the cut window opening as the door skin is very lite weight. See Youtube video for frame build details:

Install Hint: Oh and I went to a lot of effort to catch all the metal shavings by taping off the inside of the back doors of the van, when I cut the widows in, but I didn't put anything over the back door outside magnets and you guessed it the magnets caught some of the filings and they rusted on the magnets and it was a bugger to clean after the fact. I suggest taping over magnets

Install Hint 2: the horizontal stiffener on the inside of the van door is 'level' and I used that as my reference point by drawing a horizontal line for the window bottom and drilled two small holes through the door skin to transfer the 'level' line to the outside for the template that I stuck on van using double sided tape. The inner door frames on the Transit doors are different so double check that the placement is ascetically pleasing and equal distance before you cut your first window opening. The right rear one is narrower!

 

[SSawyer]

They are from Wilderness Vans in Lethbridge AB (wildernessvans.com). Broad Arrow (497 x 297 Tinted). It is not shown in my pictures but they are mounted in a wooden frame and there is a window blind/screen that also comes with them that I installed. I had to notch out the wood frame for the Ford Transit inner door frame and I left the centre stiffener in place to the cut window opening as the door skin is very lite weight. See Youtube video for frame build details:

Install Hint: Oh and I went to a lot of effort to catch all the metal shavings by taping off the inside of the back doors of the van, when I cut the widows in, but I didn't put anything over the back door outside magnets and you guessed it the magnets caught some of the filings and they rusted on the magnets and it was a bugger to clean after the fact. I suggest taping over magnets

Install Hint 2: the horizontal stiffener on the inside of the van door is 'level' and I used that as my reference point by drawing a horizontal line for the window bottom and drilled two small holes through the door skin to transfer the 'level' line to the outside for the template that I stuck on van using double sided tape. The inner door frames on the Transit doors are different so double check that the placement is ascetically pleasing and equal distance before you cut your first window opening. The right rear one is narrower!

View attachment 160661

Thanks for the info. They look like a perfect fit for what I have in mind. I have an obsession with sleeping with fresh air. How did they handle the curve in the doors? They look good from what I can tell in the pics.

 

[[email protected]]

Thanks for the info. They look like a perfect fit for what I have in mind. I have an obsession with sleeping with fresh air. How did they handle the curve in the doors? They look good from what I can tell in the pics.

The windows handled the curve/crease just fine with the window gasket attached. I did need to put a small shim inside only near the lower side crease(s) and there was a bit of localized un-noticeable flex of the door skin. There is no leaks from the gasket and I didn’t need to put any additional caulking on the window. I used construction adhesive to attach the inside wooden frame after dry fitting the window and shim. These windows have “Z” clips that hold them to the frame; 2 on each side and 4 along the top and bottom, making it easy to tighten as necessary so as not to flatten the door crease. You then screw the screen/blind cover at the 4 corners to your wood window fame. I have inside door panels and insulation between the window and the door skin for finishing the inside.

We really enjoy the additional ventilation to. I previously ordered CR Lawrence rear windows and did not install them and went all summer without opening windows and found we opened the rear doors in very hot weather, so decided to put these in in September and couldn’t be happier. My wife likes to be able to see out - plus we both enjoy cracking one of the windows for a little fresh air circulation across the bed.

 

[SSawyer]

The windows handled the curve/crease just fine with the window gasket attached. I did need to put a small shim inside only near the lower side crease(s) and there was a bit of localized un-noticeable flex of the door skin. There is no leaks from the gasket and I didn’t need to put any additional caulking on the window. I used construction adhesive to attach the inside wooden frame after dry fitting the window and shim. These windows have “Z” clips that hold them to the frame; 2 on each side and 4 along the top and bottom, making it easy to tighten as necessary so as not to flatten the door crease. You then screw the screen/blind cover at the 4 corners to your wood window fame. I have inside door panels and insulation between the window and the door skin for finishing the inside.

We really enjoy the additional ventilation to. I previously ordered CR Lawrence rear windows and did not install them and went all summer without opening windows and found we opened the rear doors in very hot weather, so decided to put these in in September and couldn’t be happier. My wife likes to be able to see out - plus we both enjoy cracking one of the windows for a little fresh air circulation across the bed.

That sounds great. What are your thoughts about the blinds, screen, plastic on the inside? Mulling over reading leaning against all that. At the house we can raise the window six inches or so then lean against the glass with a pillow without screen damage. Then in the summer we raise the window all the way up for more air. You have been a great help and hate to ask, but do you have any pictures of the interior? One more thing, I’m 52 and this is my first online discussion of any kind. I’m enjoying heck out of this. Thanks

 

[impatient]

An acquaintance of mine actually installed the vanwindowsdirect product. Besides left & right side, there appear to be 2 versions, or maybe 3, as one version seems to have 2 options: with or without screens. I don’t know what are the differences between the 2 versions WITH screens, and I don’t know which he installed, and we are 2000 miles from each other now. They looked pretty good from the outside. BUT, most of the glass is painted or coated over on the inside, so you can’t see thru it. The specs on The link above hint at this: the viewable area is only 14” tall. This pic shows this:

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2039/2089/products/Transit-Ps-Rear-3_e538d9cb-e333-45c1-b765-d9081993442a_1024x1024.jpg?v=1630535190

I wouldn’t miss the lack of visibility below the slider window, because of my bed, but wish the glass were not painted over above it. Still, better than no visibility (or no ventilation) at all. I also don’t know how close the tint is to factory, if you were inclined to order only 1…to leave one fixed window on the other door.

Edit: to clarify: they are glass, like the factory ones, and look like glass from the outside, but the inside has a black coating above and below the glass sliding window. Again, not sure if tint matches factory or not…my buddy had both sides, so less of an issue (or complete non-issue). Reading further into the description, the latches might be different between the 2 versions, and the screens might be different.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[[email protected]]

That sounds great. What are your thoughts about the blinds, screen, plastic on the inside? Mulling over reading leaning against all that. At the house we can raise the window six inches or so then lean against the glass with a pillow without screen damage. Then in the summer we raise the window all the way up for more air. You have been a great help and hate to ask, but do you have any pictures of the interior? One more thing, I’m 52 and this is my first online discussion of any kind. I’m enjoying heck out of this. Thanks

Welcome to forums, they can be very helpful.

My windows are above the mattress (Queen E/W with 12” slide on drivers side for extra length) as the bed height is 36” from a full slide under the bed that we keep 2 bikes on and 4 plastic bins (stacked 2x2 lengthwise) with bike gear, spare dry goods (tp, paper towel), shoe/boots, and finally assorted misc spare parts and stuff, plus a small tool box on the slide inside the door. Our van is not completely finished yet but is operational and functional with all systems installed. Finishing details are waiting on the border opening so I can get some bamboo veneer, wall and ceiling fabrics that are not readily available in Canada.

The first picture shows the floor plan design I am building the van out based on. My sink is by the door and a single induction range is closest to the bed and there is a divider wall between the bed and the kitchen cabinets 13 1/2 wide. I have a slide out cassette toilet under the sink that slides into the door space for use. I have a microwave above the fridge and a front lounge setup similar to the picture. I also have 2 h/c showers, one outside by back door; shower valve inside, one inside at front of van by door (soft shower stall 24 x 30 ) with the shower valve located above the sliding door (quick release shower head). My front seats both swivel and the rear table seat is non removable. My table is bamboo on a Lagun table base. Kitchen counter is black Corian.

Rear window from inside without fabric wall covering, black out blind pulled up so you can see it in picture; screen comes down from top (eventually there will be fabric wall covering).

You could lean up against the windows but our bed is e/w and has an incline option that is also e/w (Ikea bed frame discontinued).

Bed slide in

Bed slide out (manual slide on 12” hd 500 lb. slide [weight is 45 lbs], composite fibreglass insulated panels, 1 inch slope for water runoff on top)

Happy building 🙂

 

[emmjayski]

Do you have any pictures of your install. I am considering opening windows for my rear doors and if you put these in the rear doors could you post pictures? Thanks.

Yikes, I JUST saw this notification. Apologies for not getting back to you and sharing my install pictures but I love what you installed!

 

[nyyankees588]

Yikes, I JUST saw this notification. Apologies for not getting back to you and sharing my install pictures but I love what you installed!

Not trying to unnecessarily bump up an old thread, but figured i would share my experience installing the broad arrow windows in the rear doors. I based my install on the previous person's experience.

First off - the window gasket was installed backwards on one of the windows from the factory. At first I couldn't figure out why the second window wasn't sealing properly, then I compared it to the first window and discovered that the gaskets were different. Eventually i peeled off the bad gasket and discovered that if I just installed it in the opposite direction, it would be the same as the other window. Problem solved. But almost a big problem if I hadn't figured it out. I let wilderness vans know about the issue.

I placed both windows about the same as the previous poster. As he mentioned, the biggest challenge is the lack of square/level lines. The horizontal stiffener on the inside of both doors is level, as the other person referenced. I used that to place the window template. He is also correct that the passenger-side door is narrower on the inside than the driver-side door. I drilled a small hole through the bottom edge of the template and door skin from the inside. I then transferred the template over to the outside of the door, lined the holes up in the template and the door skin.

On the outside of the door, the vertical edge where the two doors meet on each door is square. I used that line with the template on the outside to ensure that they windows were equally spaced from the middle and square in each door.

My spacing ended up being ~3.5" from the inside horizontal stiffener and ~6.5" from the outside vertical edge.

I consider myself decently experienced with this type of stuff, but it took a solid amount of time to measure, check, measure again, to be comfortable to cut the openings. It would be very noticeable if you didn't install both of them square and evenly spaced.

Figuring out the frame setup took some tinkering as well. I'll spare the details and just say what I ended up with:

I have no idea how/if the previous poster was able to make a frame that was connected at all four sides. I went with four separate pieces. On the top and bottom, they were 1" thick. On the sides, they were 3/4" thick. For the 3/4" strips, I installed the z-clips as shown in the broad arrow install video. On the 1" strips, I reversed the z-clips (confusing, but you should be able to see if you zoom in on the photo).

The transit doors curve horizontally, not vertically (which is what the windows are technically made for, I believe). I initially tried using small frame pieces at each z-clip, but that caused a ton of ripples in the sheet metal at the top and bottom of the frames. I ended up spending a lot of time using a dremel to remove layers of the 1" ply so that I could get the single piece to fit as flush as possible with the door. The client I was installing this for was not stoked about the initial ripples in the sheet metal.

Each piece was slightly different... I forgot my router wrenches, so I couldn't swap my router bits to be able to use them for cutting out the wood. I think that would have been way faster, but it could have been a little bit sketchy because of how narrow the wood pieces are. I instead used the trusty dremel with 50 grit sandpaper. It made a load of dust and took a couple hours, but the end result was pretty good. There are A LOT of ridges on the inside of the door, haha.

Tighten the z-clips carefully (do not use a drill/driver!). Even though they are expensive windows... they still use a sheetmetal screw into a thin metal part of the frame. I screwed/unscrewed each screw quite a few times trying to get the top and bottom pieces cut out correctly. I stripped one screw and almost stripped a second. Fortunately they are #6 screws and I was able to replace the stripped screw with a #8 for a solid connection. Don't over-tighten the z-clips. Do them slowly and consistently check from the outside to see how tight the gasket looks. Overtightening will just strip the screws and warp the sheetmetal.

Once everything was good to go, I took the frame pieces off two at a time and put construction adhesive on them and reattached them. You shouldn't really need construction adhesive, they should be held tightly by the window, but it will make dealing with them in the future easier.

Overall, I think they look pretty good. The door sheet metal will warp a bit - but you can make it look pretty even if you create a custom frame similar to how I did. They're pretty cool windows. They feel super sturdy once installed. The combo bug screen + curtain on the inside frame is a favorite of mine. They are pretty small for what you pay ($900ish for the pair after taxes and shipping). But if you're looking for a window of this size (especially if you want one that opens for the rear doors), I think they are probably the highest quality you can buy. I did think that i noticed a bit more noise when driving with them... but the van was empty and I had only driven it without the windows once before. The person that I installed them for is very attuned to noises, so I'll be curious to see if he notices any difference in how loud it is while driving.

One abstract thing that I did like - they aren't going to be easy to fit through if somebody breaks in through one of them. I'm a skinny dude and the size of them combined with the height of where they were installed, meant that there was no way I could fit through if I tried. I'm all about one less way to have your sh** stolen.

 

[[email protected]]

Not trying to unnecessarily bump up an old thread, but figured i would share my experience installing the broad arrow windows in the rear doors. I based my install on the previous person's experience.

First off - the window gasket was installed backwards on one of the windows from the factory. At first I couldn't figure out why the second window wasn't sealing properly, then I compared it to the first window and discovered that the gaskets were different. Eventually i peeled off the bad gasket and discovered that if I just installed it in the opposite direction, it would be the same as the other window. Problem solved. But almost a big problem if I hadn't figured it out. I let wilderness vans know about the issue.

I placed both windows about the same as the previous poster. As he mentioned, the biggest challenge is the lack of square/level lines. The horizontal stiffener on the inside of both doors is level, as the other person referenced. I used that to place the window template. He is also correct that the passenger-side door is narrower on the inside than the driver-side door. I drilled a small hole through the bottom edge of the template and door skin from the inside. I then transferred the template over to the outside of the door, lined the holes up in the template and the door skin.

On the outside of the door, the vertical edge where the two doors meet on each door is square. I used that line with the template on the outside to ensure that they windows were equally spaced from the middle and square in each door.
View attachment 177216
My spacing ended up being ~3.5" from the inside horizontal stiffener and ~6.5" from the outside vertical edge.
View attachment 177210 View attachment 177211

I consider myself decently experienced with this type of stuff, but it took a solid amount of time to measure, check, measure again, to be comfortable to cut the openings. It would be very noticeable if you didn't install both of them square and evenly spaced.

Figuring out the frame setup took some tinkering as well. I'll spare the details and just say what I ended up with:
View attachment 177214

I have no idea how/if the previous poster was able to make a frame that was connected at all four sides. I went with four separate pieces. On the top and bottom, they were 1" thick. On the sides, they were 3/4" thick. For the 3/4" strips, I installed the z-clips as shown in the broad arrow install video. On the 1" strips, I reversed the z-clips (confusing, but you should be able to see if you zoom in on the photo).

The transit doors curve horizontally, not vertically (which is what the windows are technically made for, I believe). I initially tried using small frame pieces at each z-clip, but that caused a ton of ripples in the sheet metal at the top and bottom of the frames. I ended up spending a lot of time using a dremel to remove layers of the 1" ply so that I could get the single piece to fit as flush as possible with the door. The client I was installing this for was not stoked about the initial ripples in the sheet metal.
View attachment 177215

Each piece was slightly different... I forgot my router wrenches, so I couldn't swap my router bits to be able to use them for cutting out the wood. I think that would have been way faster, but it could have been a little bit sketchy because of how narrow the wood pieces are. I instead used the trusty dremel with 50 grit sandpaper. It made a load of dust and took a couple hours, but the end result was pretty good. There are A LOT of ridges on the inside of the door, haha.

Tighten the z-clips carefully (do not use a drill/driver!). Even though they are expensive windows... they still use a sheetmetal screw into a thin metal part of the frame. I screwed/unscrewed each screw quite a few times trying to get the top and bottom pieces cut out correctly. I stripped one screw and almost stripped a second. Fortunately they are #6 screws and I was able to replace the stripped screw with a #8 for a solid connection. Don't over-tighten the z-clips. Do them slowly and consistently check from the outside to see how tight the gasket looks. Overtightening will just strip the screws and warp the sheetmetal.

Once everything was good to go, I took the frame pieces off two at a time and put construction adhesive on them and reattached them. You shouldn't really need construction adhesive, they should be held tightly by the window, but it will make dealing with them in the future easier.

View attachment 177217

Overall, I think they look pretty good. The door sheet metal will warp a bit - but you can make it look pretty even if you create a custom frame similar to how I did. They're pretty cool windows. They feel super sturdy once installed. The combo bug screen + curtain on the inside frame is a favorite of mine. They are pretty small for what you pay ($900ish for the pair after taxes and shipping). But if you're looking for a window of this size (especially if you want one that opens for the rear doors), I think they are probably the highest quality you can buy. I did think that i noticed a bit more noise when driving with them... but the van was empty and I had only driven it without the windows once before. The person that I installed them for is very attuned to noises, so I'll be curious to see if he notices any difference in how loud it is while driving.

One abstract thing that I did like - they aren't going to be easy to fit through if somebody breaks in through one of them. I'm a skinny dude and the size of them combined with the height of where they were installed, meant that there was no way I could fit through if I tried. I'm all about one less way to have your sh** stolen.

My window frame, I used construction adhesive as well and did have to shape some of the wood to fit the contours of the internal door frame. Nice work.