Not trying to unnecessarily bump up an old thread, but figured i would share my experience installing the broad arrow windows in the rear doors. I based my install on the previous person's experience.
First off - the window gasket was installed backwards on one of the windows from the factory. At first I couldn't figure out why the second window wasn't sealing properly, then I compared it to the first window and discovered that the gaskets were different. Eventually i peeled off the bad gasket and discovered that if I just installed it in the opposite direction, it would be the same as the other window. Problem solved. But almost a big problem if I hadn't figured it out. I let wilderness vans know about the issue.
I placed both windows about the same as the previous poster. As he mentioned, the biggest challenge is the lack of square/level lines. The horizontal stiffener on the inside of both doors is level, as the other person referenced. I used that to place the window template. He is also correct that the passenger-side door is narrower on the inside than the driver-side door. I drilled a small hole through the bottom edge of the template and door skin from the inside. I then transferred the template over to the outside of the door, lined the holes up in the template and the door skin.
On the outside of the door, the vertical edge where the two doors meet on each door is square. I used that line with the template on the outside to ensure that they windows were equally spaced from the middle and square in each door.
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My spacing ended up being ~3.5" from the inside horizontal stiffener and ~6.5" from the outside vertical edge.
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I consider myself decently experienced with this type of stuff, but it took a solid amount of time to measure, check, measure again, to be comfortable to cut the openings. It would be very noticeable if you didn't install both of them square and evenly spaced.
Figuring out the frame setup took some tinkering as well. I'll spare the details and just say what I ended up with:
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I have no idea how/if the previous poster was able to make a frame that was connected at all four sides. I went with four separate pieces. On the top and bottom, they were 1" thick. On the sides, they were 3/4" thick. For the 3/4" strips, I installed the z-clips as shown in the broad arrow install video. On the 1" strips, I reversed the z-clips (confusing, but you should be able to see if you zoom in on the photo).
The transit doors curve horizontally, not vertically (which is what the windows are technically made for, I believe). I initially tried using small frame pieces at each z-clip, but that caused a ton of ripples in the sheet metal at the top and bottom of the frames. I ended up spending a lot of time using a dremel to remove layers of the 1" ply so that I could get the single piece to fit as flush as possible with the door. The client I was installing this for was not stoked about the initial ripples in the sheet metal.
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Each piece was slightly different... I forgot my router wrenches, so I couldn't swap my router bits to be able to use them for cutting out the wood. I think that would have been way faster, but it could have been a little bit sketchy because of how narrow the wood pieces are. I instead used the trusty dremel with 50 grit sandpaper. It made a load of dust and took a couple hours, but the end result was pretty good. There are A LOT of ridges on the inside of the door, haha.
Tighten the z-clips carefully (do not use a drill/driver!). Even though they are expensive windows... they still use a sheetmetal screw into a thin metal part of the frame. I screwed/unscrewed each screw quite a few times trying to get the top and bottom pieces cut out correctly. I stripped one screw and almost stripped a second. Fortunately they are #6 screws and I was able to replace the stripped screw with a #8 for a solid connection. Don't over-tighten the z-clips. Do them slowly and consistently check from the outside to see how tight the gasket looks. Overtightening will just strip the screws and warp the sheetmetal.
Once everything was good to go, I took the frame pieces off two at a time and put construction adhesive on them and reattached them. You shouldn't really need construction adhesive, they should be held tightly by the window, but it will make dealing with them in the future easier.
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Overall, I think they look pretty good. The door sheet metal will warp a bit - but you can make it look pretty even if you create a custom frame similar to how I did. They're pretty cool windows. They feel super sturdy once installed. The combo bug screen + curtain on the inside frame is a favorite of mine. They are pretty small for what you pay ($900ish for the pair after taxes and shipping). But if you're looking for a window of this size (especially if you want one that opens for the rear doors), I think they are probably the highest quality you can buy. I did think
that i noticed a bit more noise when driving with them... but the van was empty and I had only driven it without the windows once before. The person that I installed them for is very attuned to noises, so I'll be curious to see if he notices any difference in how loud it is while driving.
One abstract thing that I did like - they aren't going to be easy to fit through if somebody breaks in through one of them. I'm a skinny dude and the size of them combined with the height of where they were installed, meant that there was no way I could fit through if I tried. I'm all about one less way to have your sh** stolen.