[Freth]

Has anyone installed a rear hitch on their Transit? If so, what brand? Did you have to drill any holes? How easy was it to install?

 

[Red Van Man]

I'm replacing the factory class 3 hitch with a class 4.

I believe the hitch manufacturer is Curt.

 

[star gazer]

What is the difference? I only have a 5400 lb tow rating so don't think there is any reason for me to change is there?

Dean

 

[PeterR]

What is the difference? I only have a 5400 lb tow rating so don't think there is any reason for me to change is there?

Dean

I'm replacing the factory class 3 hitch with a class 4.

I believe the hitch manufacturer is Curt.

Red Van Man, I am also curious about your reasons for switching. What is your van rated for in gross weight capacity and trailer towing rating?

Thanks

Edit after star gazer's last comment -- Red Van Man, is one of your reasons for switching to accommodate the use of load-distributing hitch bars (Reese etc.)? Thanks

 

[star gazer]

Here is the answer;

Class 3 vs. Class 4 Hitch: Difference between Class 3 and Class 4 Hitch - Sears

 

[PeterR]

Here is the answer;

Class 3 vs. Class 4 Hitch: Difference between Class 3 and Class 4 Hitch - Sears

I forget Dean did you use your load distributing system on your recent trip? Thanks

 

[star gazer]

Yes I do, but I don't set it very tight. It mainly helps reduce the bounce from only having a single axle. I did notice it says class 3 are not for weight distribution hitches.

And my Trailer is only around 2500-3000lb max.

 

[Red Van Man]

I have a Lance 1685, gross weight is 5400lbs. My tongue weight is between 600-750 dependent of what and how I load it. Trailer generally comes in at 4500-5000lbs.

The van with a 3.5/3:73 is rated for 9000 GVWR, 12,600 GCWR and 7200 lb.towing capacity, (according to the brochure from Ford).

The factory supplied hitch states max. tongue weight non WDH 500lbs. with WDH 770lbs.
Then Ford go on to say they do not recommend the use of a WDH...maybe because there is no chassis, just unibody construction.




I am going with a class 4 hitch (800/8000lbs non WDH and 1000/10,000WDH so I'm not so close to the limits of the factory hitch.

When the weather clears up around here, maybe this weekend, I'll drop the trailer on the van and see how things look. If I can get away without using the WDH, great...we'll see how it goes.

Cheers, Dave.

EDIT...I just found another site that states my towing capacity with my van's configuration is 6800lbs. So I wonder which is correct, or split the difference? Either way, I should be good to go.

 

[Freth]

Red, your Lance... Did you install it yourself? Did you have to do any drilling?

 

[Red Van Man]

It's being installed tomorrow, I'll let you know.

 

[Red Van Man]

Had the new class 4 hitch installed. Basically bolts on, but have to drill a couple of holes.
this is rated for weight carrying...8000lbs-800lb tongue weight
weight distributing...10,000-1000lbs. " "

This may be overkill, but I feel better not being so close to the limits of the factory class 3 hitch.
I'll post some pictures with the trailer later.

Cheers,
Dave.

 

[PeterR]

Had the new class 4 hitch installed. Basically bolts on, but have to drill a couple of holes.
this is rated for weight carrying...8000lbs-800lb tongue weight
weight distributing...10,000-1000lbs. " "

This may be overkill, but I feel better not being so close to the limits of the factory class 3 hitch.
I'll post some pictures with the trailer later.

Cheers,
Dave.

What was the internal size of your old factory hitch, and the new one? 2" - 3" - 4" etc.?

Also, I think the towing weight limit which you posted earlier for your van (6800 or 7200 lb.) would govern here, regardless of your hitch's actual rated capacity, in part because of the unibody issue you raised before.

Also, in light of the owner's manual saying that weight distributing hitches are not recommended, is this limitation because of the unibody construction, in view of the fact that a WDH throws highly leveraged loads onto the hitch's attachment points on the chassis?

Thanks

 

[Red Van Man]

Peter, both hitches are 2"

Ford don't specify why they don't recommend wdh. I suspect it's because of the unibody. A lot of other unibody vehicles also specify the same thing.

Cheers,
Dave.

 

[PeterR]

Peter, both hitches are 2"

Ford don't specify why they don't recommend wdh. I suspect it's because of the unibody. A lot of other unibody vehicles also specify the same thing.

Cheers,
Dave.

Thanks Dave. I pulled up your photo from my Small Trailers thread, and have been trying to picture why a unibody tow vehicle makes any difference in using a WDH or not.

It is nice being able to visualize things from the good side shot of your set up, and to remind me of my old rig similar to yours. [link below]

It seems to me that if the tension on the bar chains is not too extreme, that the dampening action of the WDH system would actually lessen the loads on the chassis, not increase them, by virtue of smoothing out the ups and downs of the trailer on bumpy roads. Especially so with a one-axle trailer like I am thinking of getting. [Edit -- similar to star gazer's comment on 2/11]

How do you feel about this? Do you plan on hooking things up and taking a test drive with and without the WDH?

Thanks

http://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/...2290d1415149525-small-trailers-glider-012.jpg

 

[Red Van Man]

I'm going to drop the trailer onto the van, put it out on the street where it is flat...my driveway has a bit of a down slope...and see how much the back of the van squats and how far the front comes up. I'll measure the height of the front and rear wheel wells and see how much things change with the trailer hooked up. Don't know about the new Transit, but Ford previously recommended returning half the distance back to the front end...eg, if the tongue weight causes the front end of the van to rise 3". you use the wdh to lower the front 1 1/2"

As you know, the purpose of a wdh is to distribute the trailer tongue weight between the axles of the tow vehicle and the trailer and to put some of the weight back on the front wheels of the tow vehicle. It also tends to lessen the porpoising motion over less than ideal roads.

If I don't have to use the wdh, great, I'll just have to see how things sit when first hooked up.

Will keep this updated.

 

[RunningtheRace]

Hi,
Sorry to revive this old post, but one of the Ford dealers quoted me $530.00 to install a tow hitch assembly on a T150 3.7 wagon. I assume it is a Ford Class 3 hitch.
Either way, it seems rather steep.

For reference, this same dealer wants $5000 to install a rear AC, $695 to install a rear view camera, & $1,000 to install a 3.73 LSD.

My instinct says to walk, no, run from this dealer.

Does anyone know what the invoice price is for a Ford trailer hitch?
Thanks in advance.

 

[hatchet]

Hi,
Sorry to revive this old post, but one of the Ford dealers quoted me $530.00 to install a tow hitch assembly on a T150 3.7 wagon. I assume it is a Ford Class 3 hitch.
Either way, it seems rather steep.

For reference, this same dealer wants $5000 to install a rear AC, $695 to install a rear view camera, & $1,000 to install a 3.73 LSD.

My instinct says to walk, no, run from this dealer.

Does anyone know what the invoice price is for a Ford trailer hitch?
Thanks in advance.

Problem is the wiring. If your transit was made without a hitch, they also removed all wiring to make a simple add on possible. This means you'd have to buy the hitch (230ish) and all the wiring (300ish) so yea that'd be about the right price.

I am just gonna order a wiring kit that ties into the rear taillights for under 100 bux.

 

[RunningtheRace]

Hatchet,

Thx. I'm not interested in the wiring to actually tow. We just want to have the the ability to install a small hitch-mounted cargo box, or bicycle carrier.

So about $230 for a Ford hitch?

 

[hatchet]

yup that's what I paid from my ford parts guy. you're gonna want an air tool and a second set of hands for the install. I did it myself but it woulda been impossible without air - the bolts are self tappers.

 

[kenjent]

I purchased the Ford hitch for $250 and the Ford trailer wiring kit for $132. I chose the Ford parts because the aftermarket wiring kit (ties into the rear taillights) will only provide 4 wires connector without trailer brakes. Also, I wanted the clean factory look. The Ford 7/4 tow/trailer connector mounts perfectly on the Ford tow hitch. The Ford hitch is fairly easy to install.

As Hatchet has mentioned, you will need to make sure your vehicle was manufactured after 1/28/15. Otherwise you will have to add some wires. If your vehicle was manufactured after 1/28/15 the tow provision wires should be in the vehicle.