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Rear door switch location, door ajar warning

57738 Views 12 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  stevenmonrad
Our bakery bought a new Ford Transit back in October 2014. (Replaced the old Sprinter and went USA made, ;) ) We are currently experiencing a problem with the rear doors ajar warning and the rear lights staying on because it thinks the doors aren't closed. (The lights turn off automatically over time, but the dash warning is always on while driving.) I am old school and searched for the door switch in the jams. There doesn't seem to be one that is at all obvious like they used to be. Where is the switch in the rear doors? If I know where they are, I can possibly see why the rear door ajar warning is constantly on.

I will tell you this. It is equipped with a Palfinger Minifix liftgate. There were a couple of incidents where the bottom of the doors got slightly damaged by the liftgate going up with the door in the way. It is only slight damage. I’d assume a possibility for the cause of the problem, but if I knew where physically the rear door switch(s) are located in the door and or door jam, I could diagnose the problem.

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Most probably its like the previous generation transit, the the door ajar switch is integrated in the door lock mechanism inside the door.
Which door mechanism? There is one at the top and bottom of the door. Where is the switch exactly located please.
"In the door LOCK mechanism inside the door" implies not at the top or bottom IMO, but in the middle of the door, where there is a activating gear box (for lack of a better word) which controls the rods leading to the top and bottom latches. Is there also a latch where the lockable door meets the other door? At that height inside the door, behind the key location?
What he said ^
Well the problem has seemed to resolve itself. doesn't mean it won't return. I have yet to fully investigate how it actually works. (Hard to get into if its working.) So then there must be a wire in the door that goes to the center lock mechanism, that switches to ground when the mechanism latches, right?
What color wires...

Having a HR Wagon, there are 4 lights in the passenger compartment. 3 of them have switches that are 3 way. The rear most doesn't have a separate on/off control.

All 4 of these can be controled from the front, when the rear doors are closed. Turning them on / off, according to how the control switches are set at each light.

Problem is, not being able to reach those controls, especially if I'm outside the vehicle and don't want all of them to come on if I open the slider or one of the back doors.

What I would like to do is, still be able to control all the passenger compartment lights from the front, when the doors are closed. Still have the time out function work if I accidently leave a switch (see below) in the on position.

BUT , have an on / off switch on the "B" pillar that would control one of the front 3 passenger compartment lights. And the same for the back doors. So that when the slider is opened, no lights would come on, until I use that rocker switch to turn the one I have designated, on. The other two would stay off. When the back door is opened, no lights would turn on until I use a switch in the back to turn that rear most light (only) on.

Since the interior of my Wagon is currently in pieces anyway, I figured that if I can find out what wires (color) control what function for the overhead lights, I would see if they can put switches in and re-route the wiring.

Currently, if I have someone turn the front lights to the off position, the rear most light will still come on when a door is opened. And I can't control the ones turned off, from the front seat.

Any of you members that have been working with the interior lights, wagon or van, know what color wires control each function, at the individual lights?

Thanks for any help.

Semper Fi
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Having a HR Wagon, there are 4 lights in the passenger compartment. 3 of them have switches that are 3 way. The rear most doesn't have a separate on/off control.

All 4 of these can be controled from the front, when the rear doors are closed. Turning them on / off, according to how the control switches are set at each light.

Problem is, not being able to reach those controls, especially if I'm outside the vehicle and don't want all of them to come on if I open the slider or one of the back doors.

What I would like to do is, still be able to control all the passenger compartment lights from the front, when the doors are closed. Still have the time out function work if I accidently leave a switch (see below) in the on position.

BUT , have an on / off switch on the "B" pillar that would control one of the front 3 passenger compartment lights. And the same for the back doors. So that when the slider is opened, no lights would come on, until I use that rocker switch to turn the one I have designated, on. The other two would stay off. When the back door is opened, no lights would turn on until I use a switch in the back to turn that rear most light (only) on.

Since the interior of my Wagon is currently in pieces anyway, I figured that if I can find out what wires (color) control what function for the overhead lights, I would see if they can put switches in and re-route the wiring.

Currently, if I have someone turn the front lights to the off position, the rear most light will still come on when a door is opened. And I can't control the ones turned off, from the front seat.

Any of you members that have been working with the interior lights, wagon or van, know what color wires control each function, at the individual lights?

Thanks for any help.

Semper Fi


I know that you guys are trying to keep topics consolidated on this forum, so "all the information on a subject is in one place", but I think this is an entirely different subject that you are asking about here than what the OP posted. I really see no disadvantage to starting new threads for new issues, just as most other online forums do. IMO it actually is MUCH easier to keep track of more current information by the start date of the thread, and when a thread becomes more than a few pages long it becomes very cumbersome to sift through it for information. Threads like that also get very noisy with repeated inquiries because nobody will take the time to read the entire thing before commenting.


I do feel that the moderators should MOVE new threads to the appropriate section of the forum, for example moving purely technical questions out of the general discussion section to the technical discussions.


Mike
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I know that you guys are trying to keep topics consolidated on this forum, so "all the information on a subject is in one place", but I think this is an entirely different subject that you are asking about here than what the OP posted. I really see no disadvantage to starting new threads for new issues, just as most other online forums do. IMO it actually is MUCH easier to keep track of more current information by the start date of the thread, and when a thread becomes more than a few pages long it becomes very cumbersome to sift through it for information. Threads like that also get very noisy with repeated inquiries because nobody will take the time to read the entire thing before commenting.


I do feel that the moderators should MOVE new threads to the appropriate section of the forum, for example moving purely technical questions out of the general discussion section to the technical discussions.


Mike
Mike,

Point taken. Thought of it as a continuation of OP, since it involved the same wiring with the rear doors and lights. Find it easier to read the new posts in a thread (there is a way to do that, look under Active Topics to see which ones you haven't read) than trying to read multiple threads repeating the same information. If the new thread doesn't have all the information of the older ones then you have to start reading multiple threads about the same topic, each with their own differances.

Semper Fi


Semper Fi
I'm have the same issue w/ my rear cargo door (dash showing rear cargo door ajar). Took a quick look at the wiring at the door latch & they seem good. Anyone have this issue & resolved it?
Thanks,
Matt
2015
250 cargo
Transit wiring so stealth ... I am thinking of buying a Yugo

I cut my teeth on electronics (not electrical) since age 4 (1952 ish). Trained at Texas A&M, US Army Hawk Missile school and 50 years of doing what I loved, electrical instrumentation and application.

I want things to work. Simple is good, redundant even better if it isn't over the top. I feel the 2016 Transit I just bought a few weeks ago (199 miles on odometer) is a fine machine underneath with a overly complicated electrical exterior. I am just an old timer who drove many VW buses, Ford Vans around the planet to have this stop me.

I want give up yet, but with 199 miles on the Odometer, I want butt heads long before selling it. I am okay with 6 computers cam bused together like a B1 Bomber but man just being able to turn off dash lights and instrumentation as well as cargo area should not be Top Secret. Adding things to this cargo van to enjoy life should not be something that would kill the warranty. Man I have been locked out, battery dead and I am sitting at 199 miles on my odometer.

I want to believe. I wish Ford would (maybe already has) work in the firmware to shut off all the whistles and bells that might leave me and the miss stranded due to over load out in the 4 corners area USA.

Thank you, Please encourage Ford to make this not an Edsel but a prized Classic that we all want.

Juan
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artzbarn: Get used to it. All new cars have the electronics disease. The only solution is to buy an older vehicle that is simple and reliable. At my age I have a disadvantage because I know vehicles do not need to be complicated.

So far I have disconnected the interior lights, the horn and live with a dash warning about low tire pressure ( I rotate all 5 tires). No switch on the lights so they will be run with a switch from the house battery. After the second time that it got super excited flashing lights and blowing the horn the horn was history. I bought as few bells and whistles as possible but it still tried to tell the Pope I had sinned.

We are just Luddites.
I don't think Ford is working on the low-voltage mess.
For my 20,000 mile Central American trip a helpful Ford parts guy spent two half-days with me figuring out spares to take.
In a bare cargo van (many empty fuse slots and blocks), we never did locate every fuse.
Paying for online access (temporary!), to the only service manual available, revealed no search results for the word 'fuse'.
To change the main battery, 'remove seat' is not exactly user friendly (no instructions on that seat, period).

It's a great driving truck.
There's a shiny T350 dually out front under lights at every fancy Ford dealer in southern Mexico, each a luxury tour bus.
I'd like to see their fuses.
As for those cargo lights. that fuse is in my glove box and I use magnetic work lights back there, with drill motor batteries. Lighting up the world at every stop in places like Honduras gets old fast.
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