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Discussion Starter #1
I got tired of exiting out the rear door using that crappy plastic latch that is 10 inches off the floor

So this is my mod that I just finished so I have a nice exit lever

 

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Very nice. I like it.

I shaped a piece of wooden dowel to fit into the plastic release, glued it in place and use a toe to open the door.
 

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****, I just took a bag full of old mt bike parts to the Goodwill yesterday!
 

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Pretty sure my rear door is different, some kind of lever and I think it is higher, but I would have to get dressed and go out and look. Mine was built early 2016. Still a huge hassle to enter/exit by the rear doors. Definitely on the project list with the 2" lift coming soon.
That bicycle handle really gives it the "steam punk" look.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
****, I just took a bag full of old mt bike parts to the Goodwill yesterday!
Oh man, I need to get rid of some stuff also
I have 4 drawers full of old cassettes, chains, cranks, brakes, pedals, etc
None of it is any good to use on a modern bike

Both my current bikes are Carbon fiber frames, carbon fiber wheels, carbon fiber parts and 1 x 11 SRAM XX1 drive trains
 

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Pretty sure my rear door is different, some kind of lever and I think it is higher, but I would have to get dressed and go out and look. Mine was built early 2016. Still a huge hassle to enter/exit by the rear doors. Definitely on the project list with the 2" lift coming soon.
That bicycle handle really gives it the "steam punk" look.
My 2015 is the same with the stupid finger hole latch. A simple solution is to just glue in a short length of wood dowel in the finger hole. Then latch is easy to push down to open the door.
 

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EL34, I like it. Great idea! What part of the latch mechanism did you attach the cable end to and how is it attached?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
EL34, I like it. Great idea! What part of the latch mechanism did you attach the cable end to and how is it attached?
I found a half round section on the plastic housing that contains the electric door solenoid stuff.
I was able to attach a bicycle seat tube/brake cable stop there.

So my black bike cable housing comes to that point and terminates
There is about 3 inches of the stainless bike cable exposed after the housing
I attached my brake cable to the cable end point of the van cable with a screw on cable stop

It's hard to picture and it was impossible to get good pics of it all

If you undo the 3 screws that hold the lower van door latch (the 3 in my video)
Then pull the whole assembly back and twist it, you can see the van cable stop point that opens the rear door
You need to pull on that cable just as if you are pushing down the black plastic van door opening mechanism
 

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Thank you. I may have a go at it when the weather warms up.
 

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Oh man, I need to get rid of some stuff also
I have 4 drawers full of old cassettes, chains, cranks, brakes, pedals, etc
None of it is any good to use on a modern bike

Both my current bikes are Carbon fiber frames, carbon fiber wheels, carbon fiber parts and 1 x 11 SRAM XX1 drive trains
Ha!
I ride 1999 Specialized FSR with a Manitou carbon race fork of that era, Kooka cranks from 1996-1997, Wheelset I laced up with Nukeproof hubs and Ritchey triple butted spokes, 3x10 (20-46 front, 11-28 rear)! Sounds dated, but it's under 24lbs and rides great. Every time I test ride a new bike, like the Yeti SB75, Ibis, FSR, Ghost, Breezer Repack, etc. that I think might be a good update, they don't ride or handle as well as my old bike! Santa Cruz 5010 is supposed to be pretty good, I might look into one. Kind of sold on getting 650b with 2.35-2.5 rubber for the cushy ride.
 

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Not sure if you know it but you can order the kit from ford. It comes with the rear door trim kit if you want that too. I think the whole kit is about 450.00
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ha!
I ride 1999 Specialized FSR with a Manitou carbon race fork of that era, Kooka cranks from 1996-1997, Wheelset I laced up with Nukeproof hubs and Ritchey triple butted spokes, 3x10 (20-46 front, 11-28 rear)! Sounds dated, but it's under 24lbs and rides great. Every time I test ride a new bike, like the Yeti SB75, Ibis, FSR, Ghost, Breezer Repack, etc. that I think might be a good update, they don't ride or handle as well as my old bike! Santa Cruz 5010 is supposed to be pretty good, I might look into one. Kind of sold on getting 650b with 2.35-2.5 rubber for the cushy ride.
Don't mean to get off subject, but here's my favorite off road carbon fiber rig

I live in one of the US mountain biking mecca's, Pisgah forest, NC
 

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I have 4 drawers full of old cassettes, chains, cranks, brakes, pedals, etc
Did you get rid of them? I've got a friend whose Shimano 600EX rear hub broke and he was scrounging around for repair parts. Apparently Shimano changes their designs slightly very frequently so it's hard finding parts. At this point, he may well have just machined his own part.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Did you get rid of them? I've got a friend whose Shimano 600EX rear hub broke and he was scrounging around for repair parts. Apparently Shimano changes their designs slightly very frequently so it's hard finding parts. At this point, he may well have just machined his own part.
My stuff is all SRAM parts
I don't have any old Shimano parts
 

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Now I'm all hot under the collar about 27.5+ bikes. I need to ride one to see, but people who's opinion I respect say they're great for the type riding I do.

27.5+ is a 27.5" (650b) wheel with FAT 2.75-3.5" tires. 2.75" seems to be the performance size. Same outer diameter as most 29" rim mt bikes, and the wheels are often interchangeable. The extra air in the tires is it's own form of suspension, but you can get a full suspension 27.5+ bike; most come with front shock. They seem to be about 27-31lbs, a bit much for me, but like with any bike huge weight savings can be had by building your own wheelset, some guys have built their 27.5+ hardtails down to 23-24lbs, with full suspension being a pound or two higher.

I like to be able to climb without too much sweat, and I don't do breakneck downhill speed so long travel suspension isn't needed or desired. I want a bike that has traction for climbs and is cushy on my old bones for all day trail rides, and it seems the 27.5+ system might be able to provide that. Being able to float over sand instead of sink is a plus, too!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I only ride 29er bikes
It's really technical riding here in Pisgah national forest
The bigger the wheel, the better it rolls over the rocks, bumps, logs etc

I sold my last road bike and only ride off road now
Pictures of my carbon fiber bikes I built are here
http://el34world.com/Misc/bike/MyBikes.htm

My Full suspension 29er carbon fiber dual suspension bike with carbon fiber wheels and parts weight in at under 25 pounds




This fully rigid carbon fiber bike of mine weighs in a 18.5 pounds
I use this one for gravel road loops

 

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As long as this thread has gone off topic and I wasn't responsible; used to be a huge road cyclist; centuries, criteriums, etc before the era of mountain bikes. Got scared of roads right after I bought a fancy bike and stopped riding. It's 16 years old already but still probably fits in with those fancy bike pictures up there. It's indoors/flat tires reflecting its use. Maybe I'll get back to biking in CO.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Can't help but note you ride full time granny gear. Not necessarily a pleasant thing when lots of flat ground to cover.
There's no such thing as granny gear any more on expensive bikes
I live in the mountains and this is a mountain bike setup

It's a SRAM XX1 - 1 x 11 drive train (very expensive stuff)
With a 30 tooth chain ring
The Cassette is 11 speed with a 10 tooth small cog and a 42 tooth large cog
That gives you a huge gear range

I have the same drive train on the rigid bike pictured above, but I have a 36 tooth chain ring

So you just pick the proper chain ring up front for the terrain you ride
You can get anything from a 24 to 40 up front

There is no front derailleur and none of that shifting up front monkey business
All the weight of multiple chain rings are gone, plus all the mechanical crap
The chain rings are wide/narrow tooth configuration
This keeps the chain on the chain ring. It never comes off even on the roughest terrain
1 x 11 is the way to go here

Now SRAM has 1 x 12 drive train
 

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Discussion Starter #20
It's a mountain bike for off road riding

Not sure why you are trying to compare it to a road bike
They are two completely different beast

How about we flip it around
You won't be going to a steep rocky 4 mile single track climb with your 44 tooth big ring and skinny tires :)
 
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