[howmanyds]

I just received my custom-built roof rack and ladder, and want to mount some lighting up top. I have the upfitter switches installed already. As I understand it, Ford leaves the hookups under the dash ready to go. Has anybody wired roof lights? Is this a job that a handy, yet inexperienced guy could figure out? Or should I go to a local audio shop and shell out $400-$500 for the pros to do it?

On another note, how fast would a pair of 18W lights, or better yet, a 300W light bar, drain a dual battery?

 

[alarmist]

The hookups are under the driver's seat. I'm certain you could wire it. There are existing holes in the roof for wiring. Find the BEMM guide for tips on grounding, etc.

 

[howmanyds]

I couldn't find holes at first glance. Are they plugged with metal caps or something?

What is the BEMM guide?

Thanks!

 

[alarmist]

https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/topics/2015/2015_transit_bemm_v1-0.pdf

Save the file and open it with Sumatra PDF. Adobe's latest reader is a pos.

The holes have plastic plugs in them which are painted over.

 

[howmanyds]

Cool, thanks!

 

[howmanyds]

As for Adobe, they should have stuck to their flagship and gone no further. I always use a different reader.

 

[howmanyds]

Alarmist, the plugs you're talking about -- are they what my roof rack is sitting on? See the circular bumps to the North and To the East of the rack foot in this picture? Are those made for drilling through? The bemm guide has a no-drill diagram from inside the van but not from on top.

 

[alarmist]

Look inside. Should be obvious on a van, not so much on a wagon with the headliner installed. Your rack is mounted to the threaded fixtures. The other plugs cover holes for wire, plumbing, periscopes, obscene gestures, lewd acts, etc. You can pull them out and put in you own grommet or drill through them. I've no clue what the best sealant is for when you're all done and ready to make it roadworthy.

 

[howmanyds]

Sounds like I should be drilling from inside the van then, not outside.

 

[jethaden]

Sounds like I should be drilling from inside the van then, not outside.

The wire holes are simply plugged and then painted over. When I tried to drill them out, it still managed to take out the whole plug. Therefore, it is recommended that you carefully score the paint at the edge of the plug so that you do not tear the paint from the steel when the plug pops out. Then drill from either side. There is the indent on the outside top for drill bit starter. Note that some of the wire covers open up into the ribs, which will be hard to work with but will allow hidden inside wiring--these are not visible from the inside. I ended up popping them out with a screw driver stuck through them. Any way that works.

The 8mm rack bolt down covers are the same. You will end up removing the whole plug. The bolt downs are inside the ribs are are not accessible from the underside. The nuts were not centered in the top holes on my van.

 

[howmanyds]

Thanks. And to confirm, the circular bumps in my picture are the wire holes you're talking about?

 

[howmanyds]

Does Ford make grommets that fit these entry holes which could be used with wires?

 

[alarmist]

Yup, the bumps are holes with plugs. Dunno if Ford has a grommet kit. Good question. Grommets are grommets though.

 

[jethaden]

Does Ford make grommets that fit these entry holes which could be used with wires?

I used a Heyco 8507 HFC 1/2-NPT-90-TWIST Quick Twist Connector I got with my solar controller. You can get this from Amazon. See https://www.flickr.com/photos/jethaden/16358372745

 

[howmanyds]

Thanks. Where do you find the stikaflex?

 

[jethaden]

Thanks. Where do you find the stikaflex?

On the internet somewhere. I do not actually remember. Bought a bunch so shipping did not kill me on a per tube basis. West Marine might carry it. Alternative is 3M 5200 which is available at many home and hardware stores. I would not use Silicone (as in never).

 

[howmanyds]

That's funny - almost all the videos I've found on YouTube, or blogs, etc, have said to just pop in some silicone.
What's the danger there?

 

[leptronjohn]

howmanyds
You may already have this in mind but do not run the power to the lights through the switches. You can use the switches to trip small relays.
I used to get them from radio shack , not sure now.
this is smoother and safer way to go.
john

 

[howmanyds]

Here's the diagram I drew up to help me wrap my head around the project and figure out where I still have questions.

The upfitter switches are equipped with 20A fuses and relays. Three of my sets of lights will draw well under that: 6A from my pair of 7" 36W floods in the back, and 3A from each pair of 4" 18W spots on each side. These lines should be well within range to plug right into the upfitter switch output. Right??

The trouble is the 300W light bar in front. It will pull up to 25A so I need a 30A fuse and relay. My question is where to plug the relay into the fuse box. Is there access to the backside of that box to custom wire an auxiliary relay? Or do I leave the relay dangling and put female spade connectors onto the four or five prongs?

The next thing I need to figure out is what would be the easiest way to cut a fuse into this new relay line: either use the existing 60A customer connection points, though these are outside the base of the driver seat and the relay will be inside, or put in an inline fuse.

 

[alarmist]

That's funny - almost all the videos I've found on YouTube, or blogs, etc, have said to just pop in some silicone.
What's the danger there?

I think he means silicone is like that picture of Hillary in a swimsuit. Residue is there forever. Hard to get paint to stick later if need be.