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Discussion Starter #1
I picked up my Quigley High Roof in July 2017. It replaced a 2006 Sportmobile Ford E350 platform) that I purchased as a 2x4 and converted to 4x4. One of the things that I didn't like about the SMB was that it was virtually useless for anything but camping. It's layout was so tight and the roof so short that it could carry little cargo and seating for tall folks was uncomfortable.

[/url]fullsizeoutput_46f by Steve Stewart, on Flickr[/IMG]
So with this one I want to build it so that it is versatile - be able to take out most of the interior to be able to haul lots of stuff, including motos, bikes and building supplies. That should be easy you say.

The other and most important use for my van is that I need to live in it 3-4 days per week 9 months of the year (not summer) in a cold climate (-10 to +10F at night). So I need heat. And a fridge. And water.

I plan on building it in stages.
Stage 1: insulation, roof fan, rear seat
Stage 2: electrical, flooring
Stage 3: heating
Stage 4: plumbing and storage

I have exactly 10 days to get stage 1 done before we head of to BC next week. So let's get started.

After owning the van for less than 72 hours I cut a hole in the roof for the Maxxair 6200 fan. That first drill hole was the toughest. I didn't document that very well, but I mounted it midship, just forward of the second rib from the back using Hein's adapter. Roof is flexy at the front edge of the fan. Will consider how to reinforce.
Used 3M 4200 to adhere Hein's adapter to the roof, then Dicor butyl tape to mount the Maxxair fan mount to Hein's adapter, then sealed it all up with black Dicor lap sealant.

IMG_0159 by Steve Stewart, on Flickr

IMG_0191 by Steve Stewart, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Insulation and Sound Control

Driving the van 1400 miles from Portland I realized that I needed to do some sound deadening and insulation sooner rather than later. An empty cargo van at highway speeds is loud!

I've used butyl rubber sound deadening products (like Dynamite) in many cars over the years and believe they provide some benefits if only the satisfying feel of a Mercedes-like dull thud when you close a door. I couldn't afford Dynamat for this big of a project, so I searched the interwebs and found some good feedback on Noico butyl rubber. Noico is made in Росси́йская Федера́ция. I'm sure Pootie himself gets a cut. Let's lay it down, comrades.

[/url]IMG_0161 by Steve Stewart, on Flickr[/IMG]

[/url]IMG_0160 by Steve Stewart, on Flickr[/IMG]


So far, I've used close to two boxes (72 square feet) of the 80mil product and 1 box (50 square feet) of the 50mil product. I covered everything that is easily accessible on the walls (outer wall and inside the reinforcing structure) and ceiling. I used 80mil on the walls and 50mil on the ceiling. I have just about enough left over to do the front doors and area above the driver compartment headliner.
 

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I cheated and skipped ahead. How many sq ft of thinsulate did you use on the roof? I'm waiting on my 148 HR to build as a motovan.
 

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Fan install looks great. Did you put any Dicor over the screws as well yet? I see the screws in the picture. I put a nice coating over the whole flange covering the screws as well to keep any water from leaking in. If you have the butyl tape under the screws I think that would give it some good waterproofing. You can never have enough Dicor though. I even put some on every unused cap that is painted over to prevent them from cracking and letting water seep in.
 

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He's referring to a kit being worked on by a company now know as Expovans http://expovans.com/conversions/transit/ that is well regarded in the overland community for his work on the e-series van know as MG Metalworks.

I'm waiting for the same kit and if his past work is any indication, this will be a great conversion solution, albeit for a smaller group/market.


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Hello Steve, I haven't heard much about Noico. Mostly hear people using 3mThinsulate for sound deadening/insulation.
Why'd you choose Noico? Thanks.
 

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Thanks for the link. I assume then he has mentioned kit availability in the forums or it's his modus operandi. Quigley seems to be the only one who has realistically made the jump from the E series in an almost generic way. There is a tremendous demand at Quigley and having had an E series myself (wow, four of them actually) I agree that the Transit is the future. I hope someday Quigley expands their Transit offerings to what MG is proposing and beyond.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Very nice Steve! I'm shortly behind you! I plan to wait on MG's Transit 4x4 kit though. It should work well with my timing on getting one. I'm pretty sure I see an 'Ecoboost' label on the rear? How do you like, so far.......comrade?
Well, so far, the Ecoboost rocks! I've put 1400 miles on it all highway and mostly (900-1000miles?)interstate at 80mph. I almost never drive on the interstate in normal life - I go out of my way to avoid it. But...had to get back home quickly. No effort at all on hills. In the first our of driving it I had to merge into some Portland rush hour traffic. I floored it like was necessary to get my 8500 pound E350 moving. Launched and chirped the tires.

My plan was to wait for MG's kit too, but this one came up and I realized I don't really need more than the Quigley system offers... yet. I'm sure MG's kit will be top notch.

You know what I think MG will come up with that will help us all? A way of relocating the ridiculously low rear shock mount.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I cheated and skipped ahead. How many sq ft of thinsulate did you use on the roof? I'm waiting on my 148 HR to build as a motovan.
The roof of the cargo compartment is about 55-60 square feet. The sides of the high roof add about another 35 sq ft. I bought the 250 sq. ft roll and I think it will be plenty for the entire van.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Fan install looks great. Did you put any Dicor over the screws as well yet? I see the screws in the picture. I put a nice coating over the whole flange covering the screws as well to keep any water from leaking in. If you have the butyl tape under the screws I think that would give it some good waterproofing. You can never have enough Dicor though. I even put some on every unused cap that is painted over to prevent them from cracking and letting water seep in.
Deadwood: Yeah - probably a good idea to go back and cover the screw heads. I think you're right that the tape will likely seal, but I'll do it for good measure.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Why butyl tape and not more 4200?
I had a bunch of butyl tape sitting around from when I installed a metal standing seam roof on my garage. I think 4200 would work just fine, but it might look a little messy as it would squeeze out when you tighten down the screws on the fan adapter to the hein adapter. By the way, I have tons (10 rolls?) of butyl tape. Would be happy to send it to folks for the cost of shipping.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thinsulate.

Using BabyBuffy's useful tips I finished up rolling the Noico. That is tedious work. My son may never work with me again. Digital manipulation and torture for sure.
I bought a 250 sq ft roll of Thinsulate to go on next. I did the combo of Noico and Thinsulate hoping for quiet, warmth, and a decent background for a good stereo.

I've done all of the cargo compartment except the two back window areas and the small, long channels. I'm leaning towards installing the Flarespace popouts so I can have an east/west bed. I'll figure that out later. There is plenty leftover for the doors and front passenger compartment. I used 3m 90 contact adhesive to adhere the thinsulate to the roof and sidewalls. Drove around a bit and it is noticeably quieter now. Still lots of hard surfaces though.

IMG_0204 by Steve Stewart, on Flickr

[/url]IMG_0203 by Steve Stewart, on Flickr[/IMG]

[/url]IMG_0202 by Steve Stewart, on Flickr[/IMG]
 

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Looking good Steve! I pick up your van's sister from Dale next week and will be proceeding in a similar fashion.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Window install.

This was a little scary, but springsyeti's pictures on the CR Laurence window thread were super helpful.

created a cardboard template using the interior trim piece that came with the window. Made it a little bit small.
IMG_0170 by Steve Stewart, on Flickr

Then test fit the template into the future opening. Ended up pretty much matching where the opening between the internal bracing and exterior body panel is. Traced a Sharpie-width line inside the opening on the back side of the outer body panel. Isn't that scientific? OK, the line is about 2mm smaller than the ultimate window opening. Wanted to be able to get creative with the grinder later. Taped the outside of the van where the window will ultimately sit. Do this before you do any drilling/cutting.

IMG_0169 by Steve Stewart, on Flickr

Then, went inside and drilled a few 1/8" holes on my Sharpie line inside. Drilled lots of holes to go around the corners. Now go outside and look at your tape. Congratulations! You own the world's most expensive Lite-Brite! Connect those dots with a Sharpie.

[/url]IMG_0173 by Steve Stewart, on Flickr[/IMG]

You've already screwed it up beyond repair. Might as well cut it out! Drill a couple 3/8 holes with the edge of the bit on the inside of your line. Used a jigsaw with a fine tooth blade. I found it helpful to have my son brace the panel from the backside, especially when the cut is almost done.

[/url]IMG_0176 by Steve Stewart, on Flickr[/IMG]

I set the window in without any additional sealant beyond the rubber gasket it comes with. This was good because it needs some adjusting to get it just right.
[/url]IMG_0179 by Steve Stewart, on Flickr[/IMG]

[/url]IMG_0177 by Steve Stewart, on Flickr[/IMG]

All is good except now my only annoying vibration/rattle is one of the screens on the window!
 
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