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Discussion Starter #1
I am getting ready to install my floor and have some questions for the group:
  1. What do people typically use to fill the valleys of the corrugated metal floor? Looks like a rib height of approx 5/16" (does anyone know if this is accurate?) but I couldn't find any plywood to match that profile so I currently don't have anything to put there. Which leads to my next question....
  2. What would be the result if I just left the valleys empty, and adhered 1" XPS directly to the metal ribs, followed by 1/2" (stained) birch plywood, with a vinyl floor on top? Would the XPS support that? What would be the impact to thermal insulation?
I did learn the hard way that the plastic covering on the steps at the rear and side of the van are not held in place by clips, but by fasteners hidden under the small, circular caps. Don't make the same mistake I did by trying to pull the plastic off and breaking one of the areas around the fastener. Remove the circular caps (not as easy as it could be) using something to pry them off, then remove the fasteners and you're done.
 

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I don't think the XPS would support that. I used MiniCell foam to fill in the Valleys sold by Hein ( I hope I didn't miss spell his name) on ebay. It worked great, and I put 1" of XPS and 1/2 inch of plywood on top of that.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I don't think the XPS would support that. I used MiniCell foam to fill in the Valleys sold by Hein ( I hope I didn't miss spell his name) on ebay. It worked great, and I put 1" of XPS and 1/2 inch of plywood on top of that.
Thanks Carpen7. Have you noticed any issues with squeaking? Also, what did you use to adhere the different layers?
 

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I am getting ready to install my floor and have some questions for the group:
  1. What do people typically use to fill the valleys of the corrugated metal floor? Looks like a rib height of approx 5/16" (does anyone know if this is accurate?) but I couldn't find any plywood to match that profile so I currently don't have anything to put there. Which leads to my next question....
  2. What would be the result if I just left the valleys empty, and adhered 1" XPS directly to the metal ribs, followed by 1/2" (stained) birch plywood, with a vinyl floor on top? Would the XPS support that? What would be the impact to thermal insulation?
I did learn the hard way that the plastic covering on the steps at the rear and side of the van are not held in place by clips, but by fasteners hidden under the small, circular caps. Don't make the same mistake I did by trying to pull the plastic off and breaking one of the areas around the fastener. Remove the circular caps (not as easy as it could be) using something to pry them off, then remove the fasteners and you're done.
I put 1/2" hard foam panels between the raises.I worked great. I also broke the area around the fastener just as you did.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
@Vanpackr - Thanks for the pics! Looks good and sounds like you are pleased with it.

@ableami - Thank you. Do you remember what your foam was rated? Will XPS 150 be sufficient for normal use (i.e. not hauling motos or anything)?

@orton - Thank you. I like what you've done with in your van and with 80/20 but I feel like, for me, the investment in all the needed tools/skills I'd need for 80/20 + cost of material make it out of reach. Maybe on the next van....
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I appreciate everyone's input. I'm now leaning the following system:
  • .5" XPS for the floor valleys using Sillicone II as adhesive
  • 1" XPS subfloor using Silicone II as adhesive (will XPS rated 150 suffice for normal use; i.e. not hauling motos or heavy stuff)
    • I'm wondering if a thin layer of cork between the XPS and plywood wood do any good? Perhaps help prevent squeaks?
  • .5" Birch treated with polyurethane stain
  • Rather than install vinyl flooring immediately, I may just use a rug for the living space and plastic cargo matting for the garage area for now.
Any thoughts on the final plan? Is cork worth it?

Thanks!
 

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Sounds like a solid plan. I would stay away from silicone anything and use a more traditional adhesive like 3m 90.

Squeaks are high on my list too - I am putting 1/2 polyiso on the ceiling not the floor but I fear the same thing may happen. My plan is to install just one panel and see how it does. Should be up in a week or so if you want to stay tuned.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks @klp and good luck with your build. I'll be sure to follow along.

About 3m-90, I don't think you can use it on XPS. The two do not play well together and the 3M-90 destroys the XPS. Why do you say stay away from silicone? I'm mainly getting my info from the article below and discussions on this forum, I have no firsthand experience with any of this so just asking questions.

 

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1/2" XPS on top of the ribs with 1/2 Ply will not be sufficient. You will get too much flex.

These are my layers:

Vinyl Floor
15/32" Plywood
Liquid Nails fuze it
Sheet of 1/2" XPS
Loctite Foamboard adhesive (Works REALLY well Foam to Foam and is cheap)
Strips of 1/2" XPS
3M 77 (3M 90 will eat XPS!)
Van Floor

Weights after each glue step were pretty much mandatory for me. This is partially because my floor isn't "factory flat". Used vehicle problems... (same reason for all those black splotches)
I am very happy with how this turned out. I have no issues with squeaks while walking around and continuing to build
133633
133634
133635
133636
 

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Discussion Starter #14
@tims5377 great pics! Nice looking Vizsla as well :) What are you going to do for trim around the edges?

My plan is going to be basically the same as yours. .5" XPS in the floor corrugations, 1" XPS on top of that, .5" plywood on that, then likely vinyl flooring to finish. Thanks for the tip on foam adhesive, I might end up going with that over the silicone.

Cheers.
 

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@tims5377 great pics! Nice looking Vizsla as well :) What are you going to do for trim around the edges?

My plan is going to be basically the same as yours. .5" XPS in the floor corrugations, 1" XPS on top of that, .5" plywood on that, then likely vinyl flooring to finish. Thanks for the tip on foam adhesive, I might end up going with that over the silicone.

Cheers.
Thanks! He is a good trail dog.
I think i will wind up running a fat bead of silicone around the bottom (of the back at least) to act as a sort of water dam without sealing the gaps and then use stair edging to trim it up. I am waiting to finish that off for now though
 

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I'm starting to work on converting a Transit wagon so my floor is a bit different. I've got the rear HVAC system so I'd like to keep that in some form. When I started pulling up the old floor, I noticed that the ductwork was basically just the channels in the metal sub-floor with some holes - either vents or where the seats are attached - to let the air out. So my thought was putting down 1/4" plywood, 1/2" poly, and then 1/2" plywood to make a sort of sandwich of a floor and allow for the blower to still push air around underneath it. I'm not too worried about the insulation - I'd rather have the HVAC system working as well as I can get it when I'm on the road. That seems like plenty of support, but it'd be nice to hear that from someone else before I go out and buy all of it. I should note that while it's a high roof, I"m 6'3" so I'm trying to keep it to where I can mostly stand up in the thing so a thinner floor is better than a thick one.
 

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I don't quite get what the bubblewrap is supposed to do on those pics way above. Seems like loss of headroom to me, and a weak subfloor that will allow the floor to flex and feel "soft" when the bubbles pop.
As for floor insulation itself, it is the least effective place to insulate in order to maintain interior temps. Some dense 1/4" rubber for road noise while driving would be effective, though.
 

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I don't think the XPS would support that.
1/2" XPS on top of the ribs with 1/2 Ply will not be sufficient. You will get too much flex.
I'll respectively disagree here, but with a couple asterisks (*). I went with 1/2" XPS in the valleys, 1/4" XPS on top of the ribs, then a layer of 1/4" EZ Cool closed-cell/foil insulation, and finally my Coretec 8mm LVP flooring. I skipped plywood underlayment all-together to reduce weight, realizing that the 8mm flooring I selected has a good amount of structural integrity.

I'm not getting squeaking from the XPS, and mine isn't even glued down yet. It's just laying underneath the flooring, but will be glued down with 3M 90 spray this spring. I'm 230 lbs., and there is a small amount of "give" with the flooring, but it's not soft, if that makes sense. I do plan to add a piece of something more rigid (PVC sheet) right on the lip of the side door step just because that'll be a high-traffic area.

Here's the fine print (*)...My 8mm Coretec flooring has really good rigidity. Also, despite the opinions you'll read online (including mine), there is no one definitive answer. Much of the information shared via forums & YouTube is just information regurgitated from other DIY builds found online, and I'll say that many of the people building these vans don't have even basic construction experience backing their decisions...just opinions/information propagated from watching a myriad of YouTube videos.

I decided to try something different based on my own material choices, personal experience with the materials I selected (including the compression information for the XPS), and consulting with my neighbor who has his builder's license and a lot of general construction experience. I'll give it a try. Maybe others will follow suit, and/or come up with unique solutions of their own.

More details/pics in my Vandalf the Grey build thread.

Craig







 

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Xps comes in different ratings.

Basic, like you find at Hone D, Lowes is rated 25 psi.

There are three high load versions
40 psi and 60 psi usually in 2 x 8 sheets. You might have to find a insulation distributer in larger towns.

There is 100 psi but you have to buy a semi truck load
 
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