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My 2015 TC Wagon has five holes in a row on each side of the roof, covered with plastic plugs. I hoped I would find a nut in the hole to which I could bolt a roof rack, but there's nothing inside the hole -- just empty space. Anyone have an idea if there's a rack designed to attach to these holes as they are, or do I need to remove the headliner to get access to add a nut? I'd rather not have to remove the headliner.

thanks
 

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Hmmm...he said TC, if that means Transit Connect> wrong website. If he does mean Transit then see above ^^
 

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Which holes are for "wiring and plumbing"? There may be a solar panel in my future and I need to run some cable before doing the walls. Any info on the pass through diameter?
 

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Some information on a way to install solar:

http://www.ortontransit.info/solar.php

No rack required and the cable holes added. Did not want to use the existing Transit holes due to their size and location. Wanted holes hidden under the panel.

Consider not putting the wiring in the walls. Ran all my wiring outside the walls inside of cabinets or in the floor. Used "SO" cords instead of wire and conduit. Much easier.
 

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Which holes are for "wiring and plumbing"? There may be a solar panel in my future and I need to run some cable before doing the walls. Any info on the pass through diameter?
I've never seen it documented. If you have a look on top, there is a row of round plugs down each side at the outer edge. Those are the rack/etc. mounting lugs. Everything else is just a hole.
 

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Which holes are for "wiring and plumbing"? There may be a solar panel in my future and I need to run some cable before doing the walls. Any info on the pass through diameter?
The plugs that appear in flat "pad" areas should have thread for mounting racks and accessories... whose feet stand on the flat, weight-bearing pads.
 

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Which holes are for "wiring and plumbing"? There may be a solar panel in my future and I need to run some cable before doing the walls. Any info on the pass through diameter?
Note that most of the factory wiring holes are oval! I recall someone here said they ordered the proper fittings for that but I've never seen an oval conduit fitting...

Also, some of them are directly above a roof brace so not really accessible. Couldn't figure out how I'd make use of those.

In the end I drilled my own 1/2" knockouts since I wanted my panel wiring under the panels and none of the factory knockouts were.
 
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Thanks folks! Orton, I saw your web site details several times and the way you installed the panels is great. (Thank you for all your efforts in helping guys like me) I hope to minimize non-standard body piercing where possible and practical. I am not opposed to adding a cable through fitting. I'd be likely to use a perko marine through fitting. I was thinking how nice it would be to use the chassis ground for the negative side of the panel...
 

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Thanks folks! Orton, I saw your web site details several times and the way you installed the panels is great. (Thank you for all your efforts in helping guys like me) I hope to minimize non-standard body piercing where possible and practical. I am not opposed to adding a cable through fitting. I'd be likely to use a perko marine through fitting. I was thinking how nice it would be to use the chassis ground for the negative side of the panel...
It is easy to use a 1/2" NPT electrical knockout punch (7/8" dia.) to make the holes for 90 degree bulkhead cord fittings. After cutting the 14" roof vent hole a couple of 7/8" holes is less intimidating.

My house electrical system is not grounded to the chassis. It is a stand alone system with two wires to each load. Could do this because I do not directly connect the house battery to the vehicle battery for charging. Did the Sprinter conversion without grounding because I was afraid of the fragile Sprinter electrical CAN bus. Transit also has a CAN bus system.
 
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