[MaxIsTheDog4U]

I have the dual battery option with 175A CCP2 (2021 model).

Plan is to hook up 4 100ah Battleborn Batteries (Li-ion) in parallel using a battery isolation manager (sold by Battleborn) to charge the battery bank. Routing the 4/0 wire from CCP2 to the batter bank is easy. But I am wondering about ground.

I have the BEMM and understand that there is ground point #25 that can be accessed if I dig into the center console. I recall reading a discussion on this forum that seemed to indicate that I could also connect directly to the negative terminal of the second battery?

Took a look and it seems that this would be easy enough to do (enough room to add another connection)

Is it not wise to connect to the negative terminal (pictured above)?

Thanks in advance!

 

[gregoryx]

I'm not sure why Ford doesn't approve / recommend it... but you should be able to use that top-most bolt on the battery terminal. That is the disconnect. My guess is that is why they don't recommend it: it is the disconnect. 🤷‍♀️

Likely you've seen all the banter here about ground points, so... your call. My take: if you're not using the official approved points, use the D-ring. If you're going to use an official point, probably 25 is the one.

That BIM thing sounds interesting... but still seems less-than-ideal to go 12V house batteries for four of them. 🤷‍♀️

 

[MaxIsTheDog4U]

D ring…thank you…I see that is another option.

 

[Van Den]

I was wondering the same thing about where to ground, when adding a 12V to 24 V converter charger from the starting battery to the 24v Li house battery that's already connected to a all in one inverter charger that is isolated from the chassis ground on the passenger side.

 

[gregoryx]

 

[ArgonautVans]

Grounding to the d ring, or through a hole in the little stump at the bottom of the c pillar are good options.

you can also do the topmost stud on the negative battery harness in your picture. Chassis ground is probably better for a 4/0 wire though.

 

[Van Den]

Grounding to the d ring, or through a hole in the little stump at the bottom of the c pillar are good options.

you can also do the topmost stud on the negative battery harness in your picture. Chassis ground is probably better for a 4/0 wire though.

Looks like you choose to go with the isolated route, running the negative too?

 

[Van Den]

Looks like you choose to go with the isolated route, running the negative too?

Or are those two positive feeds?

 

[ArgonautVans]

What do you mean? The starter battery is grounded to chassis.
Regardless, Bonny van my negative bus bar will be grounded to the chassis, so is my B2B charger

 

[Van Den]

Are you using a heated Li Po for cold weather or do you switch it off manually.

 

[MaxIsTheDog4U]

Are you using a heated Li Po for cold weather or do you switch it off manually.

I am not using a heated battery. But I do have heat in the van and it is insulated.

 

[Van Den]

I have the dual battery option with 175A CCP2 (2021 model).

Plan is to hook up 4 100ah Battleborn Batteries (Li-ion) in parallel using a battery isolation manager (sold by Battleborn) to charge the battery bank. Routing the 4/0 wire from CCP2 to the batter bank is easy. But I am wondering about ground.

I have the BEMM and understand that there is ground point #25 that can be accessed if I dig into the center console. I recall reading a discussion on this forum that seemed to indicate that I could also connect directly to the negative terminal of the second battery?

Took a look and it seems that this would be easy enough to do (enough room to add another connection)

View attachment 182902


Is it not wise to connect to the negative terminal (pictured above)?

Thanks in advance!

Is that the auto stop module on the negative post?

 

[gregoryx]

Is that the auto stop module on the negative post?

It's the current measuring device. Used to establish SOC so the system can shut off the alternator with a target of 80% SOC. So... sort-of?

Looks like you choose to go with the isolated route, running the negative too?

Are you referring to the photo I posted? Or something else?

If the photo, there is a 2/0 from CCP2 and a #4 from CCP1 and a 4/0 from the d-ring bolt.

Here's the other side of those wires. This is early in the build / install: we were using the van battery as the sole power at the time.

Here's more recent:

 

[Van Den]

It's the current measuring device. Used to establish SOC so the system can shut off the alternator with a target of 80% SOC. So... sort-of?



Are you referring to the photo I posted? Or something else?

If the photo, there is a 2/0 from CCP2 and a #4 from CCP1 and a 4/0 from the d-ring bolt.

Here's the other side of those wires. This is early in the build / install: we were using the van battery as the sole power at the time.
View attachment 182920

Here's more recent:
View attachment 182921

Nice, Like how you used that inset space. The photo was a little dark so didn't see the CCP connection.

 

[gregoryx]

Nice, Like how you used that inset space. The photo was a little dark so didn't see the CCP connection.

Yeah... not a clear pic of the CCP connections.

The final / operational setup has everything closed away - but accessible by pulling panels off (no tools).

 

[FedEx CC Transit]

I have the dual battery option with 175A CCP2 (2021 model).

Plan is to hook up 4 100ah Battleborn Batteries (Li-ion) in parallel using a battery isolation manager (sold by Battleborn) to charge the battery bank. Routing the 4/0 wire from CCP2 to the batter bank is easy. But I am wondering about ground.

I have the BEMM and understand that there is ground point #25 that can be accessed if I dig into the center console. I recall reading a discussion on this forum that seemed to indicate that I could also connect directly to the negative terminal of the second battery?

Took a look and it seems that this would be easy enough to do (enough room to add another connection)

View attachment 182902


Is it not wise to connect to the negative terminal (pictured above)?

Thanks in advance!

I use a Renogy 40 amp DC to DC charger for charging my 2 Chins 300 amp hour lithium batteries. I get my power from the factory hot terminal at the bottom of my driver's seat towards the door. Mine has 1 terminal, yours might have more. Then I grounded to a D ring. I read where you don't want to charge right from your alternator to your battery bank. Use a DC to DC charger so it won't burn up your alternator.

 

[Van Den]

Yeah... not a clear pic of the CCP connections.

The final / operational setup has everything closed away - but accessible by pulling panels off (no tools).
View attachment 182923

I'm assuming the two ground terminals on the isolated Victron are common?

 

[gregoryx]

I'm assuming the two ground terminals on the isolated Victron are common?

Not sure which device you're referring to. The Multiplus? or MPPT?

 

[MrRedVan]

I'm not sure why Ford doesn't approve / recommend it... but you should be able to use that top-most bolt on the battery terminal. That is the disconnect. My guess is that is why they don't recommend it: it is the disconnect.

I was surprised to see in the BEMM today - the M6 stud where the one and only ground cable connects to the dual battery ground "harness" is listed as "Do not remove or loosen". Page 92, 2022 version.

I've also been using this stud as the disconnect point - I don't see a feasible way to do it otherwise. Disconnecting both negative battery terminals seems very difficult.

Is everyone just using this as the disconnect point anyway? I haven't seen anything else in the BEMM about how to disconnect the battery negative, just that it's sometimes necessary, like when welding.

 

[kenryan]

Why won't #3 work?