[DrJean]

Most of you might say that using Marine grade tri plex power cord and also running it through conduit is overkill...but that's my nature.

I want to run the conduit because I won't be adding now all the electrical I will want to add later. One of these is the shore power. I need to at least "permanently" mark where that has to go or actually install the outlet on the (left) side of the van without "powering" it. But I also want to run the conduit from there to the battery, right?

Looking at mainly running conduit also on the other side for the ham radio. #10 tri plex through a conduit from the driver seat battery bank to nearly the back of the vehicle. ...

Still thinking about whether to make the junction at the middle of the run or at the back so I can operate outside the back nearer the antenna on good days.

I am thinking of maybe 3/4" conduits with at least a string to pull future wire so I don't have to carry a puller.

Has anyone run conduit for this reason? I'm thinking of pvc, bending it slightly where needed or just putting in flexible to begin with (I have some PVC on hand though.) I do have a metal pole/conduit but don't have a bender and it would be too heavy and too hard to insulate for noise to begin with!

Any links or pics of wire runs in a 2017? I will have a high roof, extended length, lwb with one sliding cargo door and windows all around...
Thoughts?

 

[alarmist]

Try smurf.

http://www.carlonsales.com/flexplusblueentnmt.php

 

[orton]

Use "SO" cords outside the walls behind cabinets and in the insulated floor?

Much easier than conduits and wire. Smaller diameter and tight radius.

Ham radio wiring different.

I only have one buried cord. That was in the ceiling for the Maxxair fan. All others are accessible.

 

[Hein]

We used outdoor grade extension cord inside smurf tube for our interior 120V runs. Don't use the smurf tube under the vehicle as it isn't rated for outdoor use.

 

[DrJean]

ha! Smurf! It looks good for audio and lighting wires.... but I'm thinking power... guess I have to see how Ford runs whatever wiring ...

at this point I don't even know if any of the cargo area is finished..oh wait, yeah, the floor.. and I suppose the wheel wells??? Lower side panels? IDK I'm still confused over what I ordered and what came in wrong the last time. Seems I didn't get floor and ceiling finished before because I ordered rear a/c.. which I did not order this time.

 

[sschefer]

Just a thought, all of your wiring needs to be to code for single family dwellings. The moment you turn it into a living space, all the rules apply.

Before you start buying, have a look at the code book and make sure that your thoughts, ideas and plans are safe and up to code.

If you follow the letter of the law, you actually need permits and inspections for your conversion. Nobody I know does it but if you ever end up in court it could come up.

This is just to make you aware, not to scare you or freak you out. Do as you see fit.

 

[alarmist]

ha! Smurf! It looks good for audio and lighting wires.... but I'm thinking power... guess I have to see how Ford runs whatever wiring ...

at this point I don't even know if any of the cargo area is finished..oh wait, yeah, the floor.. and I suppose the wheel wells??? Lower side panels? IDK I'm still confused over what I ordered and what came in wrong the last time. Seems I didn't get floor and ceiling finished before because I ordered rear a/c.. which I did not order this time.

Smurf is ok with 110.

 

[driley]

Just a thought, all of your wiring needs to be to code for single family dwellings. The moment you turn it into a living space, all the rules apply.

Before you start buying, have a look at the code book and make sure that your thoughts, ideas and plans are safe and up to code.

If you follow the letter of the law, you actually need permits and inspections for your conversion. Nobody I know does it but if you ever end up in court it could come up.

This is just to make you aware, not to scare you or freak you out. Do as you see fit.

Building codes do not apply to RVs. There are standards for boats the RVs that are applicable.

Here are some good links for electricity.

https://www.civicsolar.com/support/installer/articles/electrical-grounding-boats-and-rvs


http://noshockzone.org/rv-electrical-safety-part-viii-gfci/

http://www.rv-motorhome-answers.com/ac.html

http://noshockzone.org/category/rv-safety/

 

[Michael Ophus]

yep i remember reading that we can thank henry ford for motor vehicles Not becoming a part of the national fire underwriters/national electrical code. (we can also cuss him for it, bad chassis grounds have caused more problems for mechanics then probably any other part of a motor vehicle!)

 

[sschefer]

Building codes do not apply to RVs. There are standards for boats the RVs that are applicable.

Here are some good links for electricity.

https://www.civicsolar.com/support/installer/articles/electrical-grounding-boats-and-rvs


http://noshockzone.org/rv-electrical-safety-part-viii-gfci/

http://www.rv-motorhome-answers.com/ac.html

http://noshockzone.org/category/rv-safety/

The NFPA has codes for RV'S and in the code it specifically states that all wiring must comply with the NEC. For more info you can read the fire codes at the NFPA website and there's also the RIVA website that you might find helpful.

 

[orton]

Without any required yearly inspections, I could care less what the regulations require. I am very confident about how my conversion is wired. Do not need or want government telling me what I can or can not do.

 

[sschefer]

Without any required yearly inspections, I could care less what the regulations require. I am very confident about how my conversion is wired. Do not need or want government telling me what I can or can not do.

Well there is that. I'm confident in mine also. I probably won't get mine inspected but wouldn't worry about it passing if I did.

 

[DrJean]

Well, I've seen some videos where guys ran romex! That was outlawed down here in the 60s I think because of the fire hazard.

I want the conduit for 2 reasons, yes safety but also to be able to more easily feed new wires down the road through them.

How many wires can I get into one smurf? I admit I haven't even looked it up. It would eliminate the need to insulate any metal or even PVC conduit from knocking about... but is it study enough for feeding additional line through?

I'm thinking the #10 wire .....

 

[orton]

Much easier to run "SO" cords instead of conduit and wire. All my cords are run outside the walls and inside the cabinets. I do have one 14/2 wire for the roof fan buried in the ceiling. Have three "SO" cords in the raised floor across van. The floor cords are accessible by removing the 3/8" gym mat floor covering.

 

[sschefer]

Well, I've seen some videos where guys ran romex! That was outlawed down here in the 60s I think because of the fire hazard.

I want the conduit for 2 reasons, yes safety but also to be able to more easily feed new wires down the road through them.

How many wires can I get into one smurf? I admit I haven't even looked it up. It would eliminate the need to insulate any metal or even PVC conduit from knocking about... but is it study enough for feeding additional line through?

I'm thinking the #10 wire .....

5 in 1/2", 10 in 3/4" and 16 in 1".

I thought that Smurf tube was only legal for low/voltage, low current runs. Isn't it also only for vertical runs and not horizontal or in plenums.

 

[DrJean]

Hmmmm read up a little on the smurf... it's pvc spiraled... and for low voltage only but I've seen it adv. running horizontally. But the largest I can find is 1". I won't be using smurf because it is spiraled and will make my main point of using conduit moot: ease of pulling future wires.

At this point in time I have no idea how finished the cargo area of the van I ordered will be. I know the floor, and the wheel wells will be covered.

I'm confused because I didn't check and the first van I ordered the rear a/c and that meant only the panels up to the bottom of the windows was done, not the floor, top walls nor ceiling were.

Not sure where I'll begin with conduit in the first place right now.

Found this: supposedly it's used in Israel for 240v
and this:
http://www.homedepot.com/c/best_conduit_choices_from_plastic_pvc_to_metallic_HT_BG_EL

 

[DrJean]

I'm trying to find a pic of the wireway cover removed to see if I can use that... and how easy it was to pull the cover...

Here's a great site I've enjoyed and which has helped me greatly: Cargovanconversion.com

and here is a pic of that Ford Transit wireway in the med roof:
http://cargovanconversion.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/ford-transit-wireway.jpg

 

[alarmist]

Hmmmm read up a little on the smurf... it's pvc spiraled... and for low voltage only but I've seen it adv. running horizontally. But the largest I can find is 1". I won't be using smurf because it is spiraled and will make my main point of using conduit moot: ease of pulling future wires.

At this point in time I have no idea how finished the cargo area of the van I ordered will be. I know the floor, and the wheel wells will be covered.

I'm confused because I didn't check and the first van I ordered the rear a/c and that meant only the panels up to the bottom of the windows was done, not the floor, top walls nor ceiling were.

Not sure where I'll begin with conduit in the first place right now.

Found this: supposedly it's used in Israel for 240v
and this:
http://www.homedepot.com/c/best_conduit_choices_from_plastic_pvc_to_metallic_HT_BG_EL

Smurf is a lot easier to fish and pull through than metal flex.

 

[DrJean]

I believe it.
My first thought of conduit was from my first experience with it: metal, having to be bent, heavy ,that would rattle... etc. so I've been morphing...

I found this: https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Cabl...s=cable raceway&tag=vs-auto-convert-amazon-20
here: http://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/diys-modifications/33538-relocated-cargo-van-wiring-into-body-cavities.html

 

[alarmist]

As for smurf with high voltage, I don't know where the rumor it's not for high voltage started, but it's a load of crap. OK, there may be some places that don't allow it, but it's used extensively in massive commercial projects where the conduit must be cast in slab. The only (relevant) limitation is not to expose it to UV. If you can't get your head around it, maybe try Liquid Tight sold at Home Depot. Easy to work with, very tough. The fittings cost a bundle though.