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The AutoStop Eliminator for 2019-2020 Transit Connect works great my 2020 Transit Cargo. I’ve had it for 4 months and works perfectly. Plugs in behind the OBD2. Cost was around $100.
I purchased the transit connect after reading it worked, I had installed one in my f150 and it worked great. Anyways I went ahead and tried to install as I did for the truck, figured out how to get to the back of the switch after taking apart centre part of dash, plugs are different and I was very disappointed because that auto stop annoyed me to know end. I’ve been following these posts and it wasn’t until I read about it going behind the diagnostic port that I realized I was an idiot for assuming it would be the same as the truck and for not following instructions, end result is the one for the 2019/20 transit connect works perfectly.
 

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My B2B charger continues to deliver charge to the house batteries even during engine stop as long as the ignition is on. I use the IGN signal as I did not want the charge cycle resetting during start/sop.
Do you have a 2020 Tansit? Where did you pull your IGN signal form? Is it on in the accessory position or run only? I am just about to install a DC-DC alternator charger on my van. The CCP makes that half of the install super easy, but I am not sure where I will get my D+ signal form. From my understanding, you could go with the C 33-E connector using the engine run signal on Pin #3. But, That is a switch to ground signal, so you would need to run it through a relay. I'm not too excited about doing that. Another option would be to find another circuit that has a 12v+ only when the engine is running and piggyback off of it with one of those add a fuse kits. Or, I could just switch it to one of my upfitter switches. Switch #4 only has power running to it when the engine is running. So, to get a D signal the engine would have to be running and the switch would have to be flipped on. This is kind of double redundant, but I was thinking it might be the easiest of the options to get a D+ signal. Long story short, this is why I'm curious where are you pulled your signal from? And, what your experience with doing it that way was?
 

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Do you have a 2020 Tansit? Where did you pull your IGN signal form? Is it on in the accessory position or run only? I am just about to install a DC-DC alternator charger on my van. The CCP makes that half of the install super easy, but I am not sure where I will get my D+ signal form. From my understanding, you could go with the C 33-E connector using the engine run signal on Pin #3. But, That is a switch to ground signal, so you would need to run it through a relay. I'm not too excited about doing that. Another option would be to find another circuit that has a 12v+ only when the engine is running and piggyback off of it with one of those add a fuse kits. Or, I could just switch it to one of my upfitter switches. Switch #4 only has power running to it when the engine is running. So, to get a D signal the engine would have to be running and the switch would have to be flipped on. This is kind of double redundant, but I was thinking it might be the easiest of the options to get a D+ signal. Long story short, this is why I'm curious where are you pulled your signal from? And, what your experience with doing it that way was?
I did it the super easy way. I just pulled the ign on circuit from the CCP as well as the charge current. A battery cutoff switch on the charging current cable allows me to turn it off if I need to. So far, I haven't needed to use the switch. Many miles and absolutely no issues.
 

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Do you have a 2020 Tansit? Where did you pull your IGN signal form? Is it on in the accessory position or run only? I am just about to install a DC-DC alternator charger on my van. The CCP makes that half of the install super easy, but I am not sure where I will get my D+ signal form. From my understanding, you could go with the C 33-E connector using the engine run signal on Pin #3. But, That is a switch to ground signal, so you would need to run it through a relay. I'm not too excited about doing that. Another option would be to find another circuit that has a 12v+ only when the engine is running and piggyback off of it with one of those add a fuse kits. Or, I could just switch it to one of my upfitter switches. Switch #4 only has power running to it when the engine is running. So, to get a D signal the engine would have to be running and the switch would have to be flipped on. This is kind of double redundant, but I was thinking it might be the easiest of the options to get a D+ signal. Long story short, this is why I'm curious where are you pulled your signal from? And, what your experience with doing it that way was?
I used the IGN (12v+) from the connector under the driver's seat. There is also a ground in that connector. I chose IGN over run due to the start/stop behavior. I did not want the charging cycle to reset when the engine stopped and then restarted. It's been hooked up for over. 6 months and working well.
 

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Sorry...should have included it:


All it does is remember the button position after restarts. So if you leave it off it stays off. It just works...doesn’t interfere with anything, or cause weird error messages. Well worth it.
Hey Belias,

I just wanted to say thanks for this post. I got mine on the way for $90 out the door w/promo code AutoVlog. Another advantage of this is disabling auto-start also cause the vehicle to charge the starter battery to a higher baseline voltage (see BEMM), but I mostly want it to keep my dedicated house alternator charging.

Cheers.
 

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You ordered the one specifically for the Transit I'd assume? Seems to be the same part number as transit connect though. I'm going to be ordering one as well. 2020-2021 Ford Transit-250/350 Autostop Eliminator

What a great idea for the inventor. I'm sure he's making hundreds of thousands of dollars a year, with the number of Ford vehicles (especially F150s) out there. Cost to manufacture probably only $10-20 max. Sell 10,000 of these and he's at ~$700,000 profit.
 

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From the BEMM
- for those with the Aux Fuse Panel - p 171: "pin 24 - SRC and start/stop inhibit when grounded"
- for those with FPBG - p106 : "pin 9 SRC Inhibit Upfitter Request Input - SW GND" (no mention of start/stop though)

I have no practical experience utilizing these capabilities. If anyone has, it would be great to hear from them.
This would certainly be preferable to adding a $99 dongle to the OBD port.
 

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Maybe someone with Start/Stop can experiment with the wires to the disable button itself.
Could it be as simple as connecting the leads together so the switch is always "depressed" according to the CANbus? 🤓

I really need a 2020 to experiment with, any donor vehicles out there?
 

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From the BEMM
  • for those with the Aux Fuse Panel - p 171: "pin 24 - SRC and start/stop inhibit when grounded"
  • for those with FPBG - p106 : "pin 9 SRC Inhibit Upfitter Request Input - SW GND" (no mention of start/stop though)

I have no practical experience utilizing these capabilities. If anyone has, it would be great to hear from them.
This would certainly be preferable to adding a $99 dongle to the OBD port.
I just want the button to keep the last position, which is what this dongle does. That way when I'm using the van as a daily driver it can start-stop all it wants and save me a few bucks on gas, but on the drive out and during backcountry base camping, I can keep it disabled. I don't like the dongle either but it looks small and I think I can get it tucked away with a zip tie pretty easily. If it gives me any hassle, I'll help experiment with other methods of permanently disabling the feature. I seem to recall people found there were unintentional consequences of permanently disabling it, but that may have been in forscan.

I emailed them and they confirmed it's the same device regardless of the page you order it from (connect or plain Transit).

Cheers.
 

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Maybe someone with Start/Stop can experiment with the wires to the disable button itself.
Could it be as simple as connecting the leads together so the switch is always "depressed" according to the CANbus? 🤓
I really need a 2020 to experiment with, any donor vehicles out there?
I am guessing it's not that simple. The button in the dash probably sends a momentary signal to latch and unlatch the canbus "switch" as does an an ignition switch or "vehicle off" signal. I'd love to be wrong on this though.
I just want the button to keep the last position, which is what this dongle does.... I seem to recall people found there were unintentional consequences of permanently disabling it, but that may have been in forscan.

I emailed them and they confirmed it's the same device regardless of the page you order it from (connect or plain Transit).

Cheers.
If the ground wire approach does work, a switch in the line would provide the same control as the dongle over whether start stop is functional or disabled. Thanks for the heads up on the details about the device and the coupon code 👍. I'd want to be really certain of the consequences before I ground out a wire in the Aux fuse panel pigtail. I'd probably see if I could coax a confirmation out of the Ford BBAS folks. I'll have to search around for the Forscan issue. My reason for wanting to disabling the system is mostly do with the fact that doing so also inhibits smart charging.
 

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Maybe someone with Start/Stop can experiment with the wires to the disable button itself.
Could it be as simple as connecting the leads together so the switch is always "depressed" according to the CANbus? 🤓

I really need a 2020 to experiment with, any donor vehicles out there?
The button/switch "makes" (shorts) 2 wires on the back side. So it is a momentary thing while the switch is held depressed. I'd be afraid to permanently short them. My timer module shorts them for any amount of time one programs it to. And i do not remember the 2 wires, but with an ohmmeter one can check which ones are connected when the switch is held depressed.
 

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The button/switch "makes" (shorts) 2 wires on the back side. So it is a momentary thing while the switch is held depressed. I'd be afraid to permanently short them. My timer module shorts them for any amount of time one programs it to. And i do not remember the 2 wires, but with an ohmmeter one can check which ones are connected when the switch is held depressed.


And i used the timer to pull in a relay which does the actual wire shorting.......
 

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And i used the timer to pull in a relay which does the actual wire shorting.......
Years ago I wired a basic/adjustable timer relay to the custom alarm on my Bronco. If you stole my keys used the alarm key to disable the door open alarm without thorowing the hidden timer switch, the alarm would go off anyway.

Seems like it would be possible to wire an ignition-triggered timer to short the wires for a given amount of time.

Then again, you could start the van and hold down the momentary switch for an extended time as you drive and determine if there were any adverse effects.

Again, I need a donor vehicle to experiment with - maybe I'll just test-drive a van every week and try things out, lol
 

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Man, the autostartstop eliminator guys shipped FAST. Got mine in 2 days, and just installed it in literally 2 minutes. Easy as it gets. Removing the back panel of the adjacent cupholder lets you reach back with your left hand to pull/push on the harness while right hand pushes the little release pin. After that it's just plug and play.

I didn't even zip tie mine because it easily tucks back in there, and I may want to remove it before forscan programming or if I ever need major service. That's the only downside I see is unknown risk of obdii interference. I'm emailing the guys about that but if they say it's rock solid and thoroughly tested with no change to obdii behavior, then I think I'll leave it in for good. It's really nice to have the button act like it should have in the first place.

Cheers.
 

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Man, the autostartstop eliminator guys shipped FAST. Got mine in 2 days, and just installed it in literally 2 minutes. Easy as it gets. Removing the back panel of the adjacent cupholder lets you reach back with your left hand to pull/push on the harness while right hand pushes the little release pin. After that it's just plug and play.

I didn't even zip tie mine because it easily tucks back in there, and I may want to remove it before forscan programming or if I ever need major service. That's the only downside I see is unknown risk of obdii interference. I'm emailing the guys about that but if they say it's rock solid and thoroughly tested with no change to obdii behavior, then I think I'll leave it in for good. It's really nice to have the button act like it should have in the first place.

Cheers.
Thanks for the update. Look forward to your further reporting. I couldn't tell from their site, is there a splitter on this unit that allows an OBDII reader to be plugged in also? Say if you want to run an app like Torque.
 

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Thanks for the update. Look forward to your further reporting. I couldn't tell from their site, is there a splitter on this unit that allows an OBDII reader to be plugged in also? Say if you want to run an app like Torque.
Yes, it plugs in behind the obdii port into the oem ford connector (not standard size/shape like the open port in front), so it doesn't interfere with the appearance or mechanical functionality of the front of the port at all.

Cheers.
 
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