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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Ok let me clarify, You are a student, you work two jobs one of them full time, you work on the van at a incredible pace, you road test it, you take it for drag test, you post about it. I suppose ,since you are alive, you eat, my question is ...when do you sleep? :ROFLMAO: Can't wait to see where this is going!
Oh very little, I’ve managed to run off minimal food and a lot of caffeine, very unhealthy, but very efficient
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Oh
Nice but I'd be worried that it would get torn off hanging down there. The OEM IC gives me nightmares.

Heat management is going to be your biggest challenge. The OEM headers are at their limit as supplied and many fail through thermal cycling and a so-so design, Getting more and cooler coolant through the block is the next issue and last but not least managing IAT with intercooling.

I'd look hard at using 2 smaller Air/Water IC, (one per turbo) that's what most OEM's and racing teams are doing for high output turbo motors.

Air/water I/C's don't heat soak like air/air so will sustain much lower IAT's at high load. Having two smaller ones with short pressure-side piping has multiple advantages over one big one - faster spool, much less of an issue with compressor surge, more placement options. The water-sides plumb right into the new and much bigger main radiator that you are going to need anyway - with a couple of dedicated water pumps, that you should run through the turbo's after it exits the IC's

I get to compare the two options on my AMG and my VR4. My VR4 has an IC per turbo but they need miles of pressure-side piping so compressor surge is a non issue but boost lag is noticeable. Meanwhile the Air/water IC's on my AMG are right in front of the each cylinder bank, right behind the radiator fan. The total pressure-side plumbing is about 12" tops. Boost is instantaneous and it will sustain high boost/high load without needing to pull timing or add fuel.

If I was to do my VR4 again, that's the option I'd pick - and I may even do that anyway at some point.
oh Yeah air to water is what I’m using on the Coyote. It is a little scary with how low it worries but j am extremely conscious about every bump and curb I go up/around.
The twin turbo coyote will be much better at cooking since the tubed front end. A lot LOT less frame work. The front end will only have the frame rails left that will be stock. Everything will be cut out and tubed. I’ve thought about doing an exoskeleton style engine bay, basically make it look like a rib cage around the engine, so almost like an open air hot rod if that makes sense. Cant get hot if there’s literally nothing to contain the heat 😂
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Welp. Unfortunately the rear diff exploded today. No clue why or how, previous owners towed a ton of motorcycles and heavy trailers with it, and the van that I basically have the van gutted, doesn’t make a whole lotta sense. Price to get it fixed is basically my whole savings but while I’m at it, I’m going to get wheel bearings and brakes redone as well. Should be done by next week hopefully and once that happens, I’ll FINALLY get my YouTube channel up and I’ll keep y’all posted with plenty of content. I should be able to do weekly posts and just stuff like that.

In the mean time, hmu with any questions, I’d say I know most of the ends and outs of the engine and if anyone wants to do something similar, just ask! I love answering yalls questions!
 

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2018 Transit 250 SRW HR EXL 3.7L 4.10R Dual AGM
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When you say the "rear diff exploded" what do you mean?
Does the housing have a hole in it somewhere?
Did the carrier bearings fail?
Did you have ring to pinion teeth sheer off?

I'd be interested to find out the details, I have seen a couple people say that this happened to them but I have yet to get a clear answer on exactly what actually happened. I'm a tech at a dealer and I have never seen a transit come in to our shop with an "exploded" or even just failed differential.
 

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When you say the "rear diff exploded" what do you mean?
Does the housing have a hole in it somewhere?
Did the carrier bearings fail?
Did you have ring to pinion teeth sheer off?

I'd be interested to find out the details, I have seen a couple people say that this happened to them but I have yet to get a clear answer on exactly what actually happened. I'm a tech at a dealer and I have never seen a transit come in to our shop with an "exploded" or even just failed differential.
Triggered? 🤣
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
When you say the "rear diff exploded" what do you mean?
Does the housing have a hole in it somewhere?
Did the carrier bearings fail?
Did you have ring to pinion teeth sheer off?

I'd be interested to find out the details, I have seen a couple people say that this happened to them but I have yet to get a clear answer on exactly what actually happened. I'm a tech at a dealer and I have never seen a transit come in to our shop with an "exploded" or even just failed differential.
By the looks of it, passenger carrier bearing failed and it just started shaking and the gears didn’t mesh right and it just ate everything up lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
Perhaps someone to race against? You have to do the front engine swap so you can kick *ss and be the pride of the Transit forum.

HOLYYYYYYY, thank you for bringing this up, that is so cool!! And yeah I definitely think I’m going to stick with with front engine, twin turbo, with the exoskeleton design! My friend Mariley did something similar to her 350z but hers is in the rear. It’s a very unique look, will make driving it in the rain a little interesting, just going to have to make the engine harness closed off and all of the electronics closed off and water tight! I’ll attach a photo of her Z!
Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Hood
 

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Welp. Unfortunately the rear diff exploded today. No clue why or how, previous owners towed a ton of motorcycles and heavy trailers with it, and the van that I basically have the van gutted, doesn’t make a whole lotta sense. Price to get it fixed is basically my whole savings but while I’m at it, I’m going to get wheel bearings and brakes redone as well. Should be done by next week hopefully and once that happens, I’ll FINALLY get my YouTube channel up and I’ll keep y’all posted with plenty of content. I should be able to do weekly posts and just stuff like that.

In the mean time, hmu with any questions, I’d say I know most of the ends and outs of the engine and if anyone wants to do something similar, just ask! I love answering yalls questions!
That sucks but not uncommon with increased torque output on a used vehicle.

Meanwhile, it looks like you are way ahead of the rest of us in unlocking the potential of this motor. We'd love to know more about what mods you have. You are going to get tons of questions so I'll jump in first.

1) Turbos/headers/injectors/fuel delivery etc?
2) What was your approach to engine management? Piggyback ECU, Haltech, AEM, OEM re-flash?
3) Tell us more about the load management and boost control strategies.

Most of all, if you are using the OEM ECU how did you access it and fix the check-sum lock? What timing, AFR boost taper strategies are you using? Care to share maps and trim tables???
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 · (Edited)
That sucks but not uncommon with increased torque output on a used vehicle.

Meanwhile, it looks like you are way ahead of the rest of us in unlocking the potential of this motor. We'd love to know more about what mods you have. You are going to get tons of questions so I'll jump in first.

1) Turbos/headers/injectors/fuel delivery etc?
2) What was your approach to engine management? Piggyback ECU, Haltech, AEM, OEM re-flash?
3) Tell us more about the load management and boost control strategies.

Most of all, if you are using the OEM ECU how did you access it and fix the check-sum lock? What timing, AFR boost taper strategies are you using? Care to share maps and trim tables???
Okay to start.

1)
- Turbos are off a 2018 F-150 with a CR Performance Stage 4 Upgrade kit. (link below)
  • Headers are stock
  • XDI HPFP 60 and 2000cc Injectors (link below) The reason I am not running E85 yet is I don't trust the Fuel lines. I have been told they hold up on the F-150 but I haven't heard anything about the transits. I think I am just going to spend the extra money and get some braided ones before I run full Corn.
- Other than that, a cold air intake, and a much much shorter exhaust that exits behind the passenger tire is really about it mods wise

2) Totally stock ECU, tuned by a few of my friends at a local business down the road

3) Not totally sure what you mean by load management, boost controller-wise, I just have a little T Boost controller from TurboSmart.

And that's where the end of my knowledge starts. I have tried many times tuning myself, and I have been learning, but I know very little about how to tune. I can email my contact at IE Tuning and I can try and get some of the data logs and sheets. We have re-tuned the van about 4 times on the dyno really trying to squeeze what we can out of the Gen 1 motor without blowing it up and to be honest, I think we have hit a limit before I have to get into doing lower end, new head's, head studs, etc, stuff I am not willing to put money into on this motor. I like the EcoBoost platform, it has really impressed me in the time I have worked with it. But, I am not willing to put in more money to build this motor. At this point, I don't have a lot of money to spare on EcoBoost parts.

I have found a Gen 3 Coyote from these guys for about 50% of their retail, I have ordered from these guys quite a few times so I don't think it's a scam and I hopefully will try and snag one before the sale ends or they just run out.


I am going to convert the 6r80 in the van to a 4r200 along with doing input/output shafts and other than that the trans will stay the same.

Rear end-wise, I am not too sure how it's going to go, I was really interested in trying to set up an AWD system since I really don't have much care for drag racing but rather touge racing, and AWD definitely helps in that class. I have not looked at the AWD systems in any way shape or form, but the fact that my dad's van arrives in a few months (he liked mine so much he got his own for camping) and his is AWD, I will definitely be taking a look at that in-depth.
 

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When you say the "rear diff exploded" what do you mean?
Does the housing have a hole in it somewhere?
Did the carrier bearings fail?
Did you have ring to pinion teeth sheer off?

I'd be interested to find out the details, I have seen a couple people say that this happened to them but I have yet to get a clear answer on exactly what actually happened. I'm a tech at a dealer and I have never seen a transit come in to our shop with an "exploded" or even just failed differential.
Hey, Alex, I did a wrap on the rear-end failure I experienced last December: Open differential failure analysis, with photos
 

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Okay to start.

1)
- Turbos are off a 2018 F-150 with a CR Performance Stage 4 Upgrade kit. (link below)
  • Headers are stock
  • XDI HPFP 60 and 2000cc Injectors (link below) The reason I am not running E85 yet is I don't trust the Fuel lines. I have been told they hold up on the F-150 but I haven't heard anything about the transits. I think I am just going to spend the extra money and get some braided ones before I run full Corn.
- Other than that, a cold air intake, and a much much shorter exhaust that exits behind the passenger tire is really about it mods wise

2) Totally stock ECU, tuned by a few of my friends at a local business down the road

3) Not totally sure what you mean by load management, boost controller-wise, I just have a little T Boost controller from TurboSmart.

And that's where the end of my knowledge starts. I have tried many times tuning myself, and I have been learning, but I know very little about how to tune. I can email my contact at IE Tuning and I can try and get some of the data logs and sheets. We have re-tuned the van about 4 times on the dyno really trying to squeeze what we can out of the Gen 1 motor without blowing it up and to be honest, I think we have hit a limit before I have to get into doing lower end, new head's, head studs, etc, stuff I am not willing to put money into on this motor. I like the EcoBoost platform, it has really impressed me in the time I have worked with it. But, I am not willing to put in more money to build this motor. At this point, I don't have a lot of money to spare on EcoBoost parts.

I have found a Gen 3 Coyote from these guys for about 50% of their retail, I have ordered from these guys quite a few times so I don't think it's a scam and I hopefully will try and snag one before the sale ends or they just run out.


I am going to convert the 6r80 in the van to a 4r200 along with doing input/output shafts and other than that the trans will stay the same.

Rear end-wise, I am not too sure how it's going to go, I was really interested in trying to set up an AWD system since I really don't have much care for drag racing but rather touge racing, and AWD definitely helps in that class. I have not looked at the AWD systems in any way shape or form, but the fact that my dad's van arrives in a few months (he liked mine so much he got his own for camping) and his is AWD, I will definitely be taking a look at that in-depth.
Great info, thanks, looks like a great starting point. I wasn't aware that there is direct bolt-on stuff for the Gen 1 EcoBoost - this has got me thinking again lol.

My questions about maps and trim tables are to do with ECU mods for higher output. There are at least a couple of very different management strategies that ECU's can be programmed for how to manage AFR, EGT, Timing (ignition and cam) etc., wrt MAP and IAT to mitigate knock at higher levels of boost and heat soak. Looks like you haven't dived into that yet and may not need to at 450-500HP levels. It starts to get important as you push the signal processing and latency limits above ~19-21psi of MAP on 93RON and >30psi on E85. At those levels an IAT or fueling excursion can result in a knock event serious enough bend your rods and/or crank into pretzels, before the ECU can register it and react in real time.
 
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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
Great info, thanks, looks like a great starting point. I wasn't aware that there is direct bolt-on stuff for the Gen 1 EcoBoost - this has got me thinking again lol.

My questions about maps and trim tables are to do with ECU mods for higher output. There are at least a couple of very different management strategies that ECU's can be programmed for how to manage AFR, EGT, Timing (ignition and cam) etc., wrt MAP and IAT to mitigate knock at higher levels of boost and heat soak. Looks like you haven't dived into that yet and may not need to at 450-500HP levels. It starts to get important as you push the signal processing and latency limits above ~19-21psi of MAP on 93RON and >30psi on E85. At those levels an IAT or fueling excursion can result in a knock event serious enough bend your rods and/or crank into pretzels, before the ECU can register it and react in real time.
Exactly, these are things I would love to dive into once I get the Coyote. I’ve been taking classes through HP tuners on my “off time” (boring classes at school I don’t really care about lol) but I do plan to have a built lower end and then use stock heads since many people have had great luck with stock heads on coyotes in high HP environments.

I do plan to do everything myself when it comes to the new engine, so learning how to tune and just learning just about everything I can about the engine is a must. As i transfer out of high school and into college I plan to take a few classes through the community college to improve my Fab skills and even a couple course at a few trade schools to get me more aquatinted with certain things I’m not too familiar with. The van is making 425, pretty reasonable and reliable with the engine, just not the rest of the van lol.

I’ve been looking at stiffer suspension, but just like everything on the van, I’m probably going to have to Fab it up myself.

I would like to say this to you and to really everyone on this thread. I am still learning, I literally just turned 18 3 weeks ago. This thread will not and will never be a how to. It is a guide, it is a question board, and it is documentation of my work. I will make mistakes and that’s part of the process!! I can’t wait to see where it goes and I’m glad people are interested!!
 

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Exactly, these are things I would love to dive into once I get the Coyote. I’ve been taking classes through HP tuners on my “off time” (boring classes at school I don’t really care about lol) but I do plan to have a built lower end and then use stock heads since many people have had great luck with stock heads on coyotes in high HP environments.

I do plan to do everything myself when it comes to the new engine, so learning how to tune and just learning just about everything I can about the engine is a must. As i transfer out of high school and into college I plan to take a few classes through the community college to improve my Fab skills and even a couple course at a few trade schools to get me more aquatinted with certain things I’m not too familiar with. The van is making 425, pretty reasonable and reliable with the engine, just not the rest of the van lol.

I’ve been looking at stiffer suspension, but just like everything on the van, I’m probably going to have to Fab it up myself.

I would like to say this to you and to really everyone on this thread. I am still learning, I literally just turned 18 3 weeks ago. This thread will not and will never be a how to. It is a guide, it is a question board, and it is documentation of my work. I will make mistakes and that’s part of the process!! I can’t wait to see where it goes and I’m glad people are interested!!
We all have to start somewhere. I was in your shoes 46 years ago building my first car. My parents bought me a wreck with the promise that it was mine if I could get it running. It arrived on a flat-bed in lots of broken pieces. ~10 weeks later, I drove it down to start my first job and move into my first apartment. I had rebuilt it completely: body repaired, motor rebuilt and tuned, resprayed and with a new interior. I blew the motor and transmission up at least 5 times, crashed it twice, evaded the popo multiple times and raced it in road ralleys up and down the UK. I probably learned more about engineering with that car that anything I got from college. The back seat got a lot of use as well :cool:
 
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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
We all have to start somewhere. I was in your shoes 46 years ago building my first car. My parents bought me a wreck with the promise that it was mine if I could get it running. It arrived on a flat-bed in lots of broken pieces. ~10 weeks later, I drove it down to start my first job and move into my first apartment. I had rebuilt it completely: body repaired, motor rebuilt and tuned, resprayed and with a new interior. I blew the motor and transmission up at least 5 times, crashed it twice, evaded the popo multiple times and raced it in road ralleys up and down the UK. I probably learned more about engineering with that car that anything I got from college. The back seat got a lot of use as well :cool:
I have been cooking up a render of how I want the van to look with a long list of parts and power goals and stuff if anyone would be interested in that. Tonight I really learned the van will never handle as well as I’d like it to so I will be going in a different direction with the build. But I think either way, it’ll be something totally one of a kind, maybe even Sema worthy if it gets to that point.

but once I get my daily in may the progress will really start going, kinda bummed I have to wait that long and I feel bad to make people wait that long for big progress updates but I really can’t avoid it tbh, I will start gathering parts and hopefully I’ll have the new engine by then, and I can start building that out before I even put it in the van!
 

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I have been cooking up a render of how I want the van to look with a long list of parts and power goals and stuff if anyone would be interested in that. Tonight I really learned the van will never handle as well as I’d like it to so I will be going in a different direction with the build. But I think either way, it’ll be something totally one of a kind, maybe even Sema worthy if it gets to that point.

but once I get my daily in may the progress will really start going, kinda bummed I have to wait that long and I feel bad to make people wait that long for big progress updates but I really can’t avoid it tbh, I will start gathering parts and hopefully I’ll have the new engine by then, and I can start building that out before I even put it in the van!
You should only ever go at your own pace. Other peoples' expectations are just that - other peoples'.
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
Hey y’all, well the diff was worse than I thought. Getting another OEM one because of warranty (somehow they managed to do that 😂) but I’m looking at an Eaton LSD. Along with that I went ahead and did a new rear sway bar, brakes all the way around along with new wheels bearings, just to freshen up the van.

So I am a cinematographer/photographer and I’m starting a new Instagram for the van if anyone would be interested in that! Along with the insta, I started a group called the TonnesClub, (emperors club in Japanese) and so far it’s had pretty good success! We are releasing our first video on December 13th!! It’ll be about 3 mins long and feature some super rad video of the van, my friends FD RX7, and my other friends Veloster! If anyone would be interested in that I’d love to link the video here as well! I’ll be much more active on the Instagram so I can spread word about the transit faster.

other than that, nothing really much is happening right now, van is still out of commission which is a bummer, but once it’s getting running I’ll post some beautiful shots ASAP!! My personal insta is @grantnord if y’all do want to see some of my work over the past year!!
 
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