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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Swivel went on perfectly but... Somehow I broke the mechanism that moves the 10 way seat fore and aft. The motor still runs but only moves the inside track. The outside one is stuck forward.
Anybody else run into this? I don’t know how it happened. Maybe when I was moving the seat around when it was off the mount.
I’m looking for a fix besides ordering a new part. The only part I see is the whole 10 way module. Almost $1000!
Advice?
MJ
 

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I had the same problem!

I accidentally rolled the seat onto the motor/drive and snapped the weak plastic support structure. The motor drives two separate drive shafts, which are held in place and supported by a plastic structure. On mine the door side of the plastic snapped where it joins the motor and drive came out of its location. I didn't realize that I had a problem until I went to adjust the seat and it went sideways.

I was able to push the door side rive shaft back into place. It took a few attempts to get it indexed in the right position - basically keep trying until both sides move together and stop in the same place. Then I pulled the plastic bracket back together where it had snapped and reinforced it with hot glue, a small steel rod, Gorilla tape and zip ties. This was supposed to be a temporary fix but its held up so well that after a year, I haven't bothered to mess with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I had the same problem!

I accidentally rolled the seat onto the motor/drive and snapped the weak plastic support structure. The motor drives two separate drive shafts, which are held in place and supported by a plastic structure. On mine the door side of the plastic snapped where it joins the motor and drive came out of its location. I didn't realize that I had a problem until I went to adjust the seat and it went sideways.

I was able to push the door side rive shaft back into place. It took a few attempts to get it indexed in the right position - basically keep trying until both sides move together and stop in the same place. Then I pulled the plastic bracket back together where it had snapped and reinforced it with hot glue, a small steel rod, Gorilla tape and zip ties. This was supposed to be a temporary fix but its held up so well that after a year, I haven't bothered to mess with it.
Thank you so much for your response! I will do the same if I can. I was hoping that the drive shaft just came out. I don’t know yet. Do you have any advice on getting the Stuck side moving to index it? And reattaching the drive shaft to the motor. I think I can figure out how to reinforce the bracket using your notes.
MJ
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Making progress. Got the passenger side shaft reinserted and motor driving both sides. Got the sides aligned.
I am now working on the reinforcement. Thinking I might use fiberglass. Make a wrap around each leg just outside of the motor then a long strap along each side to tie the wraps together.
I may also need to replace two of the plastic pins at each end with screws.
 

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Making progress. Got the passenger side shaft reinserted and motor driving both sides. Got the sides aligned.
I am now working on the reinforcement. Thinking I might use fiberglass. Make a wrap around each leg just outside of the motor then a long strap along each side to tie the wraps together.
I may also need to replace two of the plastic pins at each end with screws.
Great to hear, glad I could offer my experience on this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I got this figured out! A Scrap piece of 1/16” Stainless steel plate will do the trick. About 14” long by 4” wide. I cut out a slot for the motor. I’m stopped by a rain storm right now but I will mount the plate above the broken brace with VBH tape. It should last forever and be stronger than original. .
139266
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Now I see the issue. I think the motor ran over the cable. Not sure how to solve it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Solved the clearance problem for now by shimming the top bolts with washers. Will make steel shims from some flat bar to detail it out but for now it works. I used the plate attached with industrial VBH tape. Perfect. No glue. No fiberglass.
I’ll upload some photos when they sync.
Still some concern with the cable when rotating or moving the seat forward when low. But I don’t think it will ever be used dropped low so I’m not really worried.
CONCLUSION: The Scopema does not really work with the 10 way seats. Better to get a swivel with a much wider center hole so the cable doesn’t conflict with the motor. If the motor catches the cable it breaks the motor mount. $$CA CHING$$ if you are not careful and lucky and have good advice from OldManBrit!
 

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Solved the clearance problem for now by shimming the top bolts with washers. Will make steel shims from some flat bar to detail it out but for now it works. I used the plate attached with industrial VBH tape. Perfect. No glue. No fiberglass.
I’ll upload some photos when they sync.
Still some concern with the cable when rotating or moving the seat forward when low. But I don’t think it will ever be used dropped low so I’m not really worried.
CONCLUSION: The Scopema does not really work with the 10 way seats. Better to get a swivel with a much wider center hole so the cable doesn’t conflict with the motor. If the motor catches the cable it breaks the motor mount. $$CA CHING$$ if you are not careful and lucky and have good advice from OldManBrit!
Sorry you found this issue the hard way. The Scopema swivel need shimming with all 10 way power seats. I noted that in my build thread. Once shimmed it works fine. I have used my passenger swivel about 4 times a week for nearly 12 months. The motor mount is really poor and will break if you look at it the wrong way. Your brace should get the job done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
A few photos from the Repair project.
update the VHB tape worked perfectly to bond the steel Plate to the broken plastic motor bracket. I clamped it for awhile and the bond set solid.
 

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Sorry you found this issue the hard way. The Scopema swivel need shimming with all 10 way power seats. I noted that in my build thread. Once shimmed it works fine. I have used my passenger swivel about 4 times a week for nearly 12 months. The motor mount is really poor and will break if you look at it the wrong way. Your brace should get the job done.
I have 10 way power, no shimming required. I mean the swivel is a way overpriced POS, but at least its heavy.
 

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Thank you for posting the picts I had the bracket crack but it still worked, now I know how to fix it.
 

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We also have 10 ways / Scopemas and didn't shim. It can be safely done if always mindful of position when swiveling.
 

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On mine it's not turning the swivel that could shear the cable, it's sliding the seat front or back. The problem is that there isn't enough room for the motor mount to pass over the swivel bearing: the bracket actually had to flex. I'll install spacers next time I take it off...
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
On mine it's not turning the swivel that could shear the cable, it's sliding the seat front or back. The problem is that there isn't enough room for the motor mount to pass over the swivel bearing: the bracket actually had to flex. I'll install spacers next time I take it off...
It is possible it will shear the cable, more likely to break the motor bracket or both. Either way it is a real risk to not shim. I was lucky to be able to fix it. It could have been seriously expensive to replace the part.
 

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Going to tackle my swivel this weekend, what is everyone else using to shim shy of a full plate like Maury (which is sweet fyi)
Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Going to tackle my swivel this weekend, what is everyone else using to shim shy of a full plate like Maury (which is sweet fyi)
Thanks!
I haven’t gotten to the full plate yet. Took a trip instead. I just stacked some washers around a longer bolt. I stacked some in the middle of each track too. They all stayed put for the trip and it seemed to be good enough. Might just glue them and call it done.
 
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