Ford Transit USA Forum banner
Cancel

orton DIY

340838 Views 783 Replies 125 Participants Last post by  orton, 
O
Bit of introduction: I currently own a 08 144"WB diesel Sprinter that has been converted to a stealth camper. Started with an empty cargo van and two years later and $20,000 spent the van is completed. Has sleeping for two. No exterior water inlet, not exterior shore power plug, no vents, no awning, no outside bike rack etc. Looks like a plumbers van from outside. Only thing that shows is the solar panel if you are some distance from the van.
Conversion includes:
600 watt Xantex pure sine "Vehicle" inverter powered by Sprinter 12 v system
1000 watt Magnum MSS1012 inverter/charger/transfer switch "House" inverter with shunt and Magnum control panel
Retractable shore power electrical reel
205 watt solar panel
15 amp Morningstar MPPT solar controller
600 watt Proctor-Silex (KMart) microwave
255 amp hr. Lifeline 8D AMG house battery
Indoor shower pan
5 gallon beer keg converted to shower water heater with DC pump
80/20 extrusion framed cabinets
LED lighting
Maxxair roof vent/fan
Removable table/sleeping platform
Dometic CR-80 12v/120v refrigerator
24 gallon SS inside fresh water tank
11 gallon SS outside gray water tank
Permanently mounted portapotty
All wiring outside the walls with "SO" rubber cords
"Free floating" house electrical independent of Sprinter. Not grounded to Sprinter.
1 1/2" thick composite floor
Sink with cold water faucet

The Sprinter build is documented in detail on the Sprinter-Source site. Search for "orton DIY". Separate postings for each section of the build.

Plan on buying 3.7 non-turbo gas engine 148" WB high roof Transit. Will do a very similar conversion. Have about 96 items on my things to change/improve.

Will document the build with this posting.
See less See more
Reply
Save
Like
  • Like
Reactions: 5
21 - 40 of 784 Posts
O
Solar is easy. One 205 watt 27.7 volt panel on the roof, #10 two wire cord through a 90 degree bulkhead cord grip in one hole in the roof, connect to a Morningstar 15 amp MPPT solar controller input + & - terminals, # 10 wire with 15 amp fuse from controller + output terminal to battery positive post and # 10 wire from controller - output terminal to the battery negative post. Wire size is dependent on length of run. I kept lengths as short as possible.

My negative wire from controller actually connects to the shunt instead of the battery negative post so I can read the charging current on my Magnum remote meter.

Conversion electrical can be simple if you use "SO" cords instead of conduit and wires. I also did not bury the wiring in the walls. Cords hidden behind cabinets. Do have 1 1/2" thick composite floor to allow cords and sink drain to cross van. Did bury 16-2 cords in ceiling for LED lights.

I will post a complete wiring diagram in time. My electrical is different than what most people do. It works very well.
See less See more
Reply
Save
Like
  • Like
Reactions: 1
G
Thank you.

I 'thought' you had said once that you used "SO" cords but looking for it I could not find it.

# 10 is no problem. Once upon a time when I was younger evenings and weekends I completely rewired my own home. I used only # 10 wire. While I was doing it and got a section completed my power bills slowly went down. When I was all done my bill was so much less than it had been that the utility came over and twice replaced my meter. Both new ones recorded the same much smaller amount as my original.

Again, thank you,
Greg Hayden
Reply
Save
Like
  • Like
Reactions: 1
V
Utility companies are always trying to screw you. I have seen the same results from "corrected" wiring. My older brother's home was owned by the city electrical inspector, he had contractors do "free" work for him in exchange for easy inspections.
His home was totally "butch" before we repaired ALOT.
When things are wired right, loads balanced the draw is alot less, "They" think you are stealing something.
Reply
Save
Like
O
greg-92083 said:
Thank you.

I 'thought' you had said once that you used "SO" cords but looking for it I could not find it.

# 10 is no problem. Once upon a time when I was younger evenings and weekends I completely rewired my own home. I used only # 10 wire. While I was doing it and got a section completed my power bills slowly went down. When I was all done my bill was so much less than it had been that the utility came over and twice replaced my meter. Both new ones recorded the same much smaller amount as my original.

Again, thank you,
Greg Hayden
Click to expand...
Your local electrical supply store stocks "SO" cords. They are basically the same as a HD extension cord. I will get a specific brand and part number if you need it. My Sprinter conversion is all rubber covered stranded cords. They are much easier to use than conduit and wires. Much tighter radius's are possible. There are many charts available to help determine the correct wire size based on amperage and length of run.
Reply
Save
Like
O
Bought my "SO" cords from Platt Electric.

100' of 12-2SO 600V HD (122SOX250C 053827) 12.749/ft (in 2011)

100' of 14-3SO 600V HD (143SOX1000 069388 P28 004 C00) 10.832/ft.

Used most of the cords in both sizes. Next build will use less.

Bought 16-2 cord from local hardware store. Used 16-2 for LED lights. Ran 12-2 from fuse panel to a Blue Sea # 2701 distribution block for multiple lights and 16-2 from distribution block to lights.
Reply
Save
Like
  • Like
Reactions: 1
O
Correction:

12-2 was $1.27/ft.

14-3 was $1.08/ft.
Reply
Save
Like
O
Attached is a PDF of my proposed Transit conversion electrical diagram. It is the same system that I currently have in my Sprinter with a few improvements. It has two 1000 watt inverters.

The system has a 255 amp-hr AGM battery, the two inverters, a Morningstar 15 amp MPPT solar controller and a 205 watt solar panel.

I never directly connect to the vehicle electrical system for house battery charging. I only want to charge the house battery with a quality 3 stage (bulk,absorb,float) charger that can be programmed with a charge profile that matches my house battery. The house 12 volt system is not grounded to the chassis. House system is isolated from the vehicle electrical.

One 1000 watt "house" pure sine inverter/charger/transfer switch provides 120 volt power to the conversion duplex outlets. It also can charge the house battery and can transfer shore power through the inverter when shore power is available. The other 1000 watt "vehicle" pure sine inverter is powered by the Transit 12 volt system. It provides 120 volt power when vehicle is running. It has 3 uses: provides "shore" power to house inverter for charging or heats shower water electrically or heats air electrically with 750 watt baseboard heater in back of van. A selector switch directs the power to one of the 3 uses.

For my use the 1000 watt house inverter works well. It will power a 600 watt K-Mart Proctor-Silex microwave. I only turn on the inverter when I want 120 volt power. Reduces battery usage and is quiet when off.

The ability to charge the house battery from the "vehicle" inverter is a backup for gray days. I have not needed to use it for the last 9 months since I increased the solar panel size from 135 watts to 205 watts.

I know this system is different from what most people do for a conversion. I think it has advantages.

Attachment did not attach so I will try again
See less See more
Reply
Save
Like
  • Like
Reactions: 2
O
Unfortunately this forum limits PDF file size to 19.5 KB. The electrical diagram file size is 390.2 KB. So PDF's can not be used on this forum. I will contact the administrator about increasing file size.
Reply
Save
Like
  • Like
Reactions: 1
O
The electrical diagram can be accessed from the Sprinter site.

Sprinter-Forum - View Single Post - Proposed Electrical Design
Reply
Save
Like
O
Another drawing that might help explain the system is simpler block diagram.

This is also too large to attach on this forum.

See it here:

Sprinter-Forum - View Single Post - Proposed Electrical Design
Reply
Save
Like
B
Question Dave... Seems the Proctor Silex microwave available today at Kmart is now "700" watts. The timer is a knob, which is what I like for simplicity. Don't know if it's the same as yours and just specified differently or what. I realize surge current is an issue. Any feeling about your current 1KW house inverter *possibly* handling a proportionally higher surge current?

I'm certain you're set, already owning the 600 watt microwave, but for me going with the 700 watt model and the 1KW charger/inverter, I'm wondering if there may be an issue on surge. Bumping up to say a Magnum MS-2012 which could handle the surge unfortunately involves a huge bump in cost.

Thanks for your insight...
Reply
Save
Like
O
Brad said:
Question Dave... Seems the K-Mart Proctor Silex available today at Kmart is now "700" watts. The timer is a know, which is what I like for simplicity. Don't know if it's the same as yours and just specified differently or what. I realize surge current is an issue. Any feeling about your current 1KW house inverter *possibly* handling a proportionally higher surge current?

I'm certain you're set already owning the 600 watt microwave, but for me going with the 700 watt model and the 1KW charger/inverter, I'm wondering if there may be an issue on surge. Bumping up to say a Magnum MS-2012 which could handle the surge unfortunately involves a huge bump in cost.

Thanks for your insight...
Click to expand...
I have two of the 600 watt microwaves. I will check the local K-Mart to see if the same model has been changed to 700 watts. Unfortunately the change to 700 watts might not work with the 1000 watt inverter. My first attempt was with a different brand 700 watt microwave. It worked once but would not work on the second attempt. I am obviously right at the limit of inverter capacity. The 600 watt P-S actually draws 1140 watts when running. The Magnum has a surge capacity of 1200 watts for 5 minutes. I have run the P-S for 10 minutes continuous so Magnum rating must be conservative.

Might have to find a different 600 watt microwave. I like the old P-S because it had/has old fashioned mechanical power level and time controls. No pushbuttons or clock so no power usage when not running.
Reply
Save
Like
O
The K-Mart site does show the same P-S now is 700 watts. ****.

I have a "Kill-A-Watt" meter. I just tried my 600 watt to see if the amperage changed if I reduced the power level setting. Answer is no. Same power used for all settings. 9.7 amps.

Did find a Haier 600 watt with mechanical controls on Amazon.
Reply
Save
Like
B
Thanks...

The only other 600 watt microwave I've found is one by Daewoo.

Here's the K Mart Proctor Silex unit
Reply
Save
Like
L
Microwaves don't have variable power. Instead they cycle on and off, varying the amount of time "on" to reduce overall power used.
Reply
Save
Like
O
LarryPDX said:
Microwaves don't have variable power. Instead they cycle on and off, varying the amount of time "on" to reduce overall power used.
Click to expand...
You are correct. When I tested it on medium high I did not run it long enough to see the off time. It is 9.7 amps when on and less when off.

The Haier 600 watt also has mechanical power level and time knobs. It is available in black or white. Manual gives power requirement at 850 watts. It has a rotating table. Made in China as was the P-S. Since both have similar dimensions I would not be surprised that they are the same unit with different doors and mfg. names. The P-S also has rear label that states it draws 850 watts which is incorrect. It draws 1140 watts.
Reply
Save
Like
accrete
On electrifying the kitchen...

So one thing i really enjoy at home and while on the road is warm/tea-temp water. We have a 1200 watt electric kettle that i use throughout the day. I was wondering how to incorporate it and had the idea of looking for lower watt similar units. I found one at Home Depot that is only 750 watts that might do fine in a van-kitchen. It seems well in the range of being able to be incorporated in such an electric kitchen.

Thom
Reply
Save
Like
O
Microwave heats water in 2 minute. No kettle required.
Reply
Save
Like
accrete
Yes the microwave will do that... but my wife and i have not used microwave technology in our kitchens since ~1985ish. So we look for alternatives.

And our electric kettle will boil a pint of water in about 1.5 minutes. (1200 watts)
Reply
Save
Like
O
10
Some pictures of my Sprinter. Transit will look very similar.

Attachments

See less See more
Reply
Save
Like
  • Like
Reactions: 5
21 - 40 of 784 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Ford Transit USA Forum
A forum community dedicated to Ford Transit owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, troubleshooting, storage capacity, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Ford Transit General Discussion Camper Vans and Conversions Dealers, Purchases and Orders Electronics, Audio, and Lighting Wheels, Tires, Brakes, and Suspension
Top