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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Went to do the 60,000 mile service tonight and noticed the coolant level was a bit low. It shouldn't be low, so I go in search of a coolant leak. And I found it. Want to guess where?

Oh yeah, I told you in the title...

Way down on the bottom seam on the passenger side to be specific. No warranty (36,000 miles on non-powertrain) so I checked the price: $462 :eek:

OH, Joy!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Finally got everything else caught up and am putting in the radiator. Kinda a PITA. I'm not sure if the bumper cover and "grille" are supposed to come out together, but I took them out separately. I think it may be easier this way since there are a bunch of clips to unclip and it seemed like it would be difficult to have some out here, while wrestling with others there.

AQ?
 

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Lots of work for a radiator swap-

Wait until you want to change the transmission filter.....I was looking at my Ford Service DVD and was horrified to find the front sub-frame with all the suspension etc has to come loose and be lowered to get the transmission pan off to access the filter:(
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Lots of work for a radiator swap-

Wait until you want to change the transmission filter.....I was looking at my Ford Service DVD and was horrified to find the front sub-frame with all the suspension etc has to come loose and be lowered to get the transmission pan off to access the filter:(
It looks like alot of work, but it's not bad. A few big pieces, then it comes out really easy.
 

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Lots of work for a radiator swap-

Wait until you want to change the transmission filter.....I was looking at my Ford Service DVD and was horrified to find the front sub-frame with all the suspension etc has to come loose and be lowered to get the transmission pan off to access the filter:(
I can't imagine why I would ever want to change my transmission fluid filter? Is this something required by Ford?
 

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Yeah, it was all back together yesterday.
Curious how you supported the transmission to remove the cross member- Ford says to support it by the pan flanges- which isn't gonna work since you need to remove the pan;)

I see they say not to reuse the nuts and bolts holding the subframe on- a set of them, 2 nuts, 2 bolts, lists for $84!

How heavy do you think that subframe with the attached suspension components is? I'm guessing 100 lbs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I changed the radiator, not the trans filter. Since this thread is about the radiator, I assumed that is the "it" that you were talking about when you said, "So you have done it?"
 

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:D
I changed the radiator, not the trans filter. Since this thread is about the radiator, I assumed that is the "it" that you were talking about when you said, "So you have done it?"
Hah, that was funny....I was thinking all along that you guys were talking about two different things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I can't imagine why I would ever want to change my transmission fluid filter? Is this something required by Ford?
It is part of the 150,000 mile maintenance. Along with changing the rear axle fluid and the serpentine belt.

But then again, it says to change diesel foam air filter even though it's glued to the paper filter.:s

Anyway, back to the radiator. The manual tells us to change the coolant at 100,000 miles, I drained and added about two gallons from a 16.5 Qt system. I think that I will try to figure out how to drain out more at 100,000 miles and get a better coolant change on this. If not, I'll just drain the radiator every 50,000 miles or so. Or, I could do a fresh water flush and add in two gallons straight antifreeze. Hmm, I'll have to think about this...
 

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It is part of the 150,000 mile maintenance. Along with changing the rear axle fluid and the serpentine belt.

But then again, it says to change diesel foam air filter even though it's glued to the paper filter.:s

Anyway, back to the radiator. The manual tells us to change the coolant at 100,000 miles, I drained and added about two gallons from a 16.5 Qt system. I think that I will try to figure out how to drain out more at 100,000 miles and get a better coolant change on this. If not, I'll just drain the radiator every 50,000 miles or so. Or, I could do a fresh water flush and add in two gallons straight antifreeze. Hmm, I'll have to think about this...
I'm 74 years old, the van will reach 150,000 miles without me. We used to drain the coolant by the radiator drain plug first (pull a lower hose if there is no drain plug). Sometimes an engine block will have a screw-in pipe plug. Drain the heater core by removing a hose (prefer the upper if you can determine which is which) and very carefully blow in with low pressure enough air to push the water out. NEVER use tap water in your engine.....distilled water with anti-freeze is OK. You have to be extra careful of any aluminum engine and the coolant. I've heard Jay Leno mention something he uses that is expensive but supposed to last "forever".
 

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I drain the radiator, fill it with distilled water, run it with the cap off till the thermostat opens, drain it, repeat until I get clear water out of the radiator. Drain it, put in the right amount of 100% coolant, fill with water. Put a gallon of water on the truck and go for a drive to final burp it. Here putting tap water in your radiator is like pouring sand in it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Flushing with tap to get out the old antifreeze, then a final flush with distilled is the method I have used. I haven't looked this over well enough to know how I would drain it. Another method is low pressure air since I have a nice pressure regulator I can put on my hose.

I also have a submersible pump that I can use to flush heater cores. Mix up some CLR and water, then cycle it through the heater core for awhile. I haven't tried this yet, but I have a couple of other buses that probably need it after 800,000 miles.
 
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