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I have some dialing in to do (still have a little rubbing somewhere) but I love the ride…
My 245/75 tires rub on the wheel well, but only at full lock going over a bump like a gutter or something, no big deal so far. You can pull off a tire to check if that is what you have or not.
157153
 

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2020 Ford Transit T250 Mid Roof Crew Long Ecoboost
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My 245/75 tires rub on the wheel well, but only at full lock going over a bump like a gutter or something, no big deal so far. You can pull off a tire to check if that is what you have or not.
View attachment 157153
Ahhhh right on I’ll take a look! Yeah full lock…. I wonder if the vancompass wheel spacer would help with that…?
 

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Ahhhh right on I’ll take a look! Yeah full lock…. I wonder if the vancompass wheel spacer would help with that…?
I always assumed it was the pinch weld but never saw signs of wear there, then noticed this when rotating tires. The wheel spacer should help.
 

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2019 250 Cargo MR LWB Quigley CCV pop-top
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Now the traxda lift actually gives the van the best lift. “Technically” It pushes the van up in the air, adds height under the front crossmember, and keeps the strut at its factory middle. 4 inches up and 4 inches down. The problem is, actually getting everything back together. To put the 2 inch strut spacer on top of the strut, you have to remove the strut from the knuckle. It comes apart really easily, then you bolt the strut spacer on top, and stick it all back together. But the strut won’t go back into the knuckle, no matter how hard you try. The angles, because of adding 2 inches, are to great to overcome, and the strut won’t drop into the hole in the knuckle. So then I undid the ball joint, which allowed me to remove the knuckle from the lower control arm, and gave me the clearance to get the knuckle and strut back together. But then the angles were too extreme to get the ball joint back into the lower control arm..... arrrrrgggg. I got it back together, but had to fix the threads on the lower ball joint. Annoying.
The solution for getting the strut back into the knuckle is to compress it with a jack and bind it with high-strength nylon webbing, like that used for rock climbing, prior to removing it like @TahoeTransit did here: Larger tires, 3” lift kit
 

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This is why I am going to custom make front lower control arms.
I found that I can order just the factory bushings and if I use the cups from the factory arms I can either do tube or boxed with extension and bend to let me get the right angles.
My Quadvan conversion has a lift built into the new spindle and I want to use a strut space with either adjustment built in or adjustable. Also it would be nice if I can make the control arms adjustable for caster/camber.
I have seen the cut/welded Foes controls arms but I want something stronger for my van.
 

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That kit looks great but I’m guessing it’s for 2wd.
 

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2019 250 Cargo MR LWB Quigley CCV pop-top
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Not going to work with a 4x4 or AWD, under "Description":
WeldTec Designs Ford Transit RWD “Coastal Cruiser” 2″ Suspension Lift Kit
I sent them an email and left a voice mail to ask some questions....
I have a 2019 and I am not sure WHY it won't work with the Quadvan 4x4 conversion. Unless it is an issue that the arm needs to be a bit longer and have an angle to correct for the total lift. I would be happy to go there and pay for that bit of custom work if that is all.
 

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Also, lift is achieved by the spacer atop the strut not through the control arm.
Lift by spacer is ok with me as the Quadvan conversion puts 2in lift by using a custom Spindle, that means if the new lower control arm works or can be extended and angled then I get 4in of lift not counting the other 2in of tire lift.
Also the new control arms and custom spacer give alignment correction that doesn't happen any other way.
 

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2019 250 Cargo MR LWB Quigley CCV pop-top
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Lift by spacer is ok with me as the Quadvan conversion puts 2in lift by using a custom Spindle, that means if the new lower control arm works or can be extended and angled then I get 4in of lift not counting the other 2in of tire lift.
Also the new control arms and custom spacer give alignment correction that doesn't happen any other way.
He means that the lift comes from the spacers, not the lower control arms. Adding more lift will likely cause the driveline/axle to bind. It would take a full reengineering of the front suspension and drive axle. I believe Van Compass has done this as a one-off experiment, and maybe Ujoint offroad, but they don't sell such.
Yep:
VC customized F350 running gear on a Transit:
 

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He means that the lift comes from the spacers, not the lower control arms. Adding more lift will likely cause the driveline/axle to bind. It would take a full reengineering of the front suspension and drive axle. I believe Van Compass has done this as a one-off experiment, and maybe Ujoint offroad, but they don't sell such.
Yep:
VC customized F350 running gear on a Transit:
Yep I completely understand the difference between a spacer lift and the lift built into the spindle.
When I had my conversion done at Quadvan we played around with a 2in spacer John had (which I bought and have at my house). The only issue was the length and angle of the lower control arm in order to seat the ball joint. Honestly I "think" if we can compressed the coil springs we could have gotten it to work but I would not have been happy at full droop.
We did cycle the spindle WITHOUT the coil spring to get a sense of how much range there was before CV bind and there seems to be enough range to make it happen. Besides someone has to push the limits.
This van is by far NOT the 1st foray for me into the world of 4wd, custom vehicles or prototypes. Matter of fact my van is the tamest thing I have built in a long time.

Even if I can only use a 1in spacer or NO spacer on top of the strut it is still nice to have alignment adjustment. I am not sure how big the increase in harshness/noise/vibration will be from going away from the rear rubber bushing to a Heim style joint but it will be interesting.

I am NOT sponsored or plan to get any deal from Weldtec, I just like seeing more cool Transit options on the market.
I still say that reservoir shocks are still the thing most needed on these vans.
 

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I have no idea what Quadvan uses in their 4WD conversions. Are you using the same parts as an AWD Transit (diff, arms, axle). You have a transfer case ,where as the AWD has something else..:).
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
What are you thoughts on a variation of the Van Compass Lift and Installing the Bilstein strut with the Van Compass spring but not use the strut spacer? I'm not savvy enough to understand how the flat 3/4" strut spacer adds camber/castor correction.
It would be nice to see a true lift kit rather than the budget boost/spacer options.
I would use the 3/4” space with the new coil and the factory strut, don’t use the bilestein strut
 

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I would use the 3/4” space with the new coil and the factory strut, don’t use the bilestein strut
Why not use the Bilstein strut?
 

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I would use the 3/4” space with the new coil and the factory strut, don’t use the bilestein strut
Makes sense for the AWD, as Bilstein causes binding of front axle, but not for 2WD or aftermarket 4x4 conversions.
 

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I was thinking the ideal setup for a AWD Transit might be: Bilstein struts (1/2 inches of lift), Vancompass coils (1 inch of lift) and no spacers. I really doubt Vancompass's 3/4 inch spacer has much if any caster or camber adjustment built into it. WIth this option you would be at 1 1/2 inches of total lift with a much better performing strut. Bilstein stock replacements shocks are usually valved a little stiffer than stock. This helps in cornering and reduces the boat like ride. I've been very happy with them on my Landcruiser. With this option you should have even more of a safety margin for the passenger side axle. Since you are 1 1/2 inches of lift vs the 1 3/4 inches of lift with their spacer and coil option.
 

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I just did a Traxda adjustable strut mount, VanCompass red coils and Bilstein B6s on my Quigley. It was good for about another inch over stock Quigley, so about 3". Good so far and makes 33's look factory-ish. I'll post a pic when I get a chance.
 
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