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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I finish my power station. The wiring schematic was not very difficult, but gosh getting these 2/0 wires to go where they need to go, and orienting the battery and making the battery tie downs…. That took forever.



I have 400 ah lithium with 2000 watt inverter charger. 375 Renogy solar and I’m pulling about 18.8 amp hour at peak.



Parking cooler rtx is very nice, unbelievably quiet and very cold in high 80s to near 90 mid day. On eco mode I can run the unit over 24 hours with solar assist.

Everything worked perfectly on first fire up. I was quiet surprised. I have not wired in the alternator charging. That’s going in today.


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As my boss/mentor Barry from New Zealand would have said: That looks sano! Sano is short sanitary and was the highest compliment ol' Barry had. Thanks for sharing.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·


Update : I wired in the alternator charging. There are multiple plugs with ignition power on the plug next to the battery. I use a standard inner pin from another mini connector I had and heat shrink the whole thing and stab it on. It’s a great fit. Power the car on, charges great at 20 amp at idle.



I ran all the wire through the open space of the CCp for a clean looking connection. And heat shrink all exposed wire so it’s just black wires going in.




This is my breaker switch. Right off the CCp. I put it here and will carpet it or wrap it, so it’s neat and hidden with a magnetic lid.

Hope this helps others with ideas.


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Awesome work! I agree, those 2/0 wires are hard to manipulate to get them in just the right place you need them to be. But give yourself credit, those wires look great. Much better than ours. Have fun out there on the road!
 

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As my boss/mentor Barry from New Zealand would have said: That looks sano! Sano is short sanitary and was the highest compliment ol' Barry had. Thanks for sharing.
Or as they would say in Barry Tidy! What a lush cooler!

Watch Gavin and Stacy for more info! Written by James Corden who lives state side now.

Cheers James
 

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Nice job — looks great.

Is the Dometic air conditioner the RTX 2000? If so, do you have additional information on its cooling performance you can share? I know you just installed it, but I could not find much on your van’s insulation, number of windows, etc. Still, assuming it’s the 6,800 BTU/hr A/C size, it sounds it’s large enough to cool your van effectively. That’s good to know. Running it on 400 Ah sounds great also. Read in specs for RTX 2000 that it can pull under 20 Amps on Eco mode. I would love to know how little current it uses at night which applies to our needs the most.


Parking cooler rtx is very nice, unbelievably quiet and very cold in high 80s to near 90 mid day. On eco mode I can run the unit over 24 hours with solar assist.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Nice job — looks great.

Is the Dometic air conditioner the RTX 2000? If so, do you have additional information on its cooling performance you can share? I know you just installed it, but I could not find much on your van’s insulation, number of windows, etc. Still, assuming it’s the 6,800 BTU/hr A/C size, it sounds it’s large enough to cool your van effectively. That’s good to know. Running it on 400 Ah sounds great also. Read in specs for RTX 2000 that it can pull under 20 Amps on Eco mode. I would love to know how little current it uses at night which applies to our needs the most.
I have the 148 high roof 2021. Yes it’s the rtx 2000. With the van empty with no insulation on the ceiling and no insulation on the doors, and no bed or furniture, it works okay in 80-90 degree weather. Dry and cool air.

As it gets build out the amount of air that needs to be cooled is significantly less. So I think it will be much more effective.

The draw is about 20 -23 amp in eco mode. Plenty cold. Boost mode with max fan speed doesn’t deliver ice cold air. And will draw close to 40 -50 with max fan speed. Because it doesn’t circulate the refrigerant fast enough for the air to be effective. So you get cool air. Eco mode with fan speed on 2 pull about exactly 22 amp. And the air coming out is ice cold middle of the day in direct sunlight. I think this is really the way to run these AC. Lowest amerpage draw, and the refrigerant will be cycled properly with fan speed.

You can have a more powerful compressor and more amperage draw but you’ll need bigger battery bank. It’s a self defeating exercise. Thats why I didn’t opt for the nomadic cooling machine that pulls 40 amp in eco mode.

You want more insulation and better insulation, and just enough power draw to run for 24 hours.

I have 3m thinsulate double up on all the wall panels. 2 layers worth. I opted for an inch less on the bed to get more insulation in.

Hope that helps.


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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
I have the 148 high roof 2021. Yes it’s the rtx 2000. With the van empty with no insulation on the ceiling and no insulation on the doors, and no bed or furniture, it works okay in 80-90 degree weather. Dry and cool air.

As it gets build out the amount of air that needs to be cooled is significantly less. So I think it will be much more effective.

The draw is about 20 -23 amp in eco mode. Plenty cold. Boost mode with max fan speed doesn’t deliver ice cold air. And will draw close to 40 -50 with max fan speed. Because it doesn’t circulate the refrigerant fast enough for the air to be effective. So you get cool air. Eco mode with fan speed on 2 pull about exactly 22 amp. And the air coming out is ice cold middle of the day in direct sunlight. I think this is really the way to run these AC. Lowest amerpage draw, and the refrigerant will be cycled properly with fan speed.

You can have a more powerful compressor and more amperage draw but you’ll need bigger battery bank. It’s a self defeating exercise. Thats why I didn’t opt for the nomadic cooling machine that pulls 40 amp in eco mode.

You want more insulation and better insulation, and just enough power draw to run for 24 hours.

I have 3m thinsulate double up on all the wall panels. 2 layers worth. I opted for an inch less on the bed to get more insulation in.

Hope that helps.


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Sorry misinformation. When you hit eco mode it automatically drop to fan speed 1 and limited output. And it’s At 22 amps. But I increase the fan to 2 and it’s technically “manual” mode. It’s still pulling around 30 amps and higher compressor draw.


The remote is absolutely worthless. It’s operating on infrared Im assuming. You have to be directly underneath the unit… or else it won’t connect. The remote also can not turn off the unit completely, you can put it on standby (which is like off but still on). It’s easier to adjust fan speed with the remote. That’s about the only thing that’s good for.

Max fan speed with auto mode seem to be colder than the boost mode.

But if the van is already at temp, and you are maintaining overnight, eco mode is more than capable. I was able to run eco mode in the rain two days ago and it was more than enough to keep the cabin dry and cold.


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Excellent post and information! I'm also looking at a 400ah (412, actually) battery setup, 300w solar and an RTX2000. Glad to know you're having good experiences with a similar setup.

What gauge wire did you end up running to the roof unit?
 

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Hope that helps.
Yes, thank you — it does help.

I can’t pull up specs again for the RTX 2000 (did a while back), but what you report makes sense based on my recollection. The “boost” function on some variable-capacity air conditioners goes above their normal cooling rating so it’s only meant as a temporary mode to help get a warm space down to temperature faster. It gives up efficiency for higher cooling capacity for a period of time. An example would be if we left our van parked in sun and it was 100 F inside, boost mode would help get it down to 80F faster than a standard 6,800 BTU/hr A/C could.

Some mini-split have similar boost ratings, exceeding their normal cooling capacity at expense of much higher power requirements. I see it as a good feature.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Excellent post and information! I'm also looking at a 400ah (412, actually) battery setup, 300w solar and an RTX2000. Glad to know you're having good experiences with a similar setup.

What gauge wire did you end up running to the roof unit?
The rtx2000 comes with the installation kit. They are 4awg . It also comes with all the copper lugs you need. But I didn’t see it until I was done cleaning up. Lol. I had a lot of copper lugs from my build. But I would buy your own copper lugs, I find the included ones a little bit too light duty.




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The draw is about 20 -23 amp in eco mode. Plenty cold. Boost mode with max fan speed doesn’t deliver ice cold air. And will draw close to 40 -50 with max fan speed. Because it doesn’t circulate the refrigerant fast enough for the air to be effective. So you get cool air. Eco mode with fan speed on 2 pull about exactly 22 amp. And the air coming out is ice cold middle of the day in direct sunlight. I think this is really the way to run these AC. Lowest amerpage draw, and the refrigerant will be cycled properly with fan speed.
...
Assuming you mean 22A @ 12V (~300W)?
Or are you running 24V (~600W)?

~600W seems more likely for a functional AC... but would be pretty nice if it works @ ~300W!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Assuming you mean 22A @ 12V (~300W)?
Or are you running 24V (~600W)?

~600W seems more likely for a functional AC... but would be pretty nice if it works @ ~300W!
It’s running on 300. 12v. I’m very surprised at the output. Like shocked. I thought it will be luke warm at best. But it works.

The two big giant fans blowing upward is a great design.


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I would like to get one of these AC units in 24 volt. They are available in 24 volt in Europe, but not North America. Does anyone know of a dealer in UK or Europe that might ship to the USA?
 

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Assuming you mean 22A @ 12V (~300W)?
Or are you running 24V (~600W)?

~600W seems more likely for a functional AC... but would be pretty nice if it works @ ~300W!
This air conditioner has inverter powered compressor to vary its speed base on cooling load, and the instructions state that “Eco” mode limits compressor speed; hence cooling capacity. There is no way we can tell how much cooling it is doing while on Eco without accurate testing. Instructions state current can vary from 10 to 58 Amps, which suggests a very good turndown ratio.

It’s highly unlikely that the full 6,800 BTU/hr rating can be achieved on 300 Watts. The EER would need to be too high (over 20). However, if it could cool at least 4,000 BTU/hr using 300 Watts by running slower on Eco, that is an EER that is very realistic (~13.3). There are window units now with EER of 15, and standard/efficient rooftop RV air conditioners with EER close to 12.

I would guess the 50~58 Amp ratings are during “Boost” mode. If it pulled 600 Watts to cool 6,800 BTU/hr, it would only be an EER of 11.3, which isn’t that high for an efficient inverter A/C. Various window A/C are now at 15, which suggest 6,800/15 = 450 Watts should be possible (just under 40 Amps X 12 Volts).

I’m looking forward to seeing more reports from these and similar efficient low-capacity air conditioners. Obviously these are just educated guesses that could be way off, but so far I like what he’s reporting.
 

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Nice work, not sure why your running fuses and breakers inline, but its doesn't matter its just money.
Please don't waste your time with thinsulate in the roof. I just removed thinsulate and replaced with 2 layers 0f 3/4 inch Polyiso. The difference is astounding. Personally (and god knows the amount of opinions on it) but i think thinsulate is crap and is best used as sound deadening in doors and filling tight spaces. Otherwise standard house insulation crushes it in "real world" performance.
Fight Me. lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Nice work, not sure why your running fuses and breakers inline, but its doesn't matter its just money.
Please don't waste your time with thinsulate in the roof. I just removed thinsulate and replaced with 2 layers 0f 3/4 inch Polyiso. The difference is astounding. Personally (and god knows the amount of opinions on it) but i think thinsulate is crap and is best used as sound deadening in doors and filling tight spaces. Otherwise standard house insulation crushes it in "real world" performance.
Fight Me. lol.
Insulation debate is like motor oil debate. lol but I did consider using the xps on the roof. Just because it’s so flat and I feel like I can layer them better and glue them better.

I don’t know about this anti thinsulate or anti this and that. That’s too much invested for me. I’m just trying to build this rig to go have fun. Lol.


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I’m looking forward to seeing more reports from these and similar efficient low-capacity air conditioners. Obviously these are just educated guesses that could be way off, but so far I like what he’s reporting.
Between the current record heat stuff and our upcoming trips, I sense my wallet about to get lighter. But I guess they're impossible to purchase right now, so... I'm safe? 😏
 

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We are producing adapters for the RTX-2000. We also have a better seal and spacer to raise the unit so it does not protrude into the living space as much.
All the best,
Hein
DIYvan

 
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