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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I thought I would catch you folks up on my Transit conversion project.

I took delivery of my van in April and worked on the conversion from May through August. My son and I then took the van on a maiden voyage trip from SE Michigan to Yellowstone NP with stops along the way at Badlands NP, Wind Cave NP, Devil's Tower, Grand Teton NP, and the Bighorn Mountains in Wyoming. I also took a short trip to Michigan’s upper peninsula. All told I put almost 6000 miles on the van. It was a pleasure to drive and gave me no trouble at all. It averaged about 18mpg. It had no problem cruising at 85MPH although at that speed the fuel economy suffered a bit, that and the wind pushes it around quite a bit which is more of a problem the faster you are going. I'd bet it could get close to 20mpg if you cruised at 65mph. It also did pretty well climbing up those mountains passes. In Yellowstone I made the mistake of driving up the wash-board gravel road to Mount Washburn, it nearly shook our teeth out not to mention all of the contents, I’ll avoid gravel roads in the future unless they are nice and smooth.

The van: 2015 Ford Transit 150, 3.7 Liter V6, 148 wheelbase, medium roof. Optional equipment is cruise control, back up sensors, 3.73 axle, fixed side and rear door glass, cargo area LED and Load protection, ingot silver. I bought the van from dealer stock so I couldnt pick and choose options. With rebates and Ford A-plan it was about 31K out the door.

The conversion: (see photos)

Walls and Insulation – I applied Ez-cool Car Insulation using 3m spray adhesive to the inside of the skin where ever I could access it. In the large open areas on the walls and ceiling between the ribs I cut panels of ½ inch foil faced poly-isocyanurate. To prevent squeaks I taped (banded) the iso panel edges in blue masking tape and cut them to fit tightly. I used foil tape to help hold the panels in place. I next screwed (with backing nuts) three horizontal rows of airline track (L-track) to the wall ribs; one row near the ceiling, one row about 2 feet off the floor, and one row at the floor. All the cabinets anchor to these using stud fittings. To cover the walls and ceilings I cut panels of 5mm Luan plywood and glued a medium pile plush carpet to them, I then used self-drilling screws to attach the panels to the ribs (the screws pretty much disappear into the carpet). The carpet panels butt up against the L-track leaving a flush wall. I left the factory installed padded mat for the cargo floor and just put a carpet runner over this. The van stays nice and cool even in the sun and seemed plenty warm at night, on our trips we did not use any additional heat source. With the carpet on the walls and ceilings it is as quiet as a Rolls Royce, also no problems with condensation.

Ventilation – Maxxair 00-06200K Ventilation Fan installed about 20 inches forward of the rear doors. One thing I may modify is to glue a flat HD TV antenna under the plastic dome of the Maxxair and run the cable behind the panels to the TV. The antenna does not work worth beans inside the metal van body, when we wanted to use it we opened a door and threw it up on the roof. I figure taped or glued up under the plastic maxair dome it ought to work well and be safe and sheltered.

Electrical – I followed Orton's advice and used the dual inverter approach. I used a 600 Xantrex pure sign wave inverter powered off the 60amp accessory feed on the driver’s seat pedestal. This is used to run the refrigerator and battery charger while driving. I bought a VMAXtanks 155 amp hour AGM battery and a VMAX 12 Volt 7 Amp Smart Battery Charger. I went with this smallish inverter and charger combo because I did not want to risk overtaxing the alternator or electrical system on the Transit (I fused the inverter DC input at 50 amps). I used a Krieger 1500 watt modified sign wave inverter as a house inverter, this runs off the 155 AGM battery while camped or parked for long periods of time. I use all this to power a small 80 watt 110 VAC dorm refrigerator, a small microwave, the maxair vent fan, a blower for the porta-potti cabinet, and a few LED lights. I also added a 24 inch flat screen TV and a blue ray player.

So far the 155 amp hour battery has no problems keeping up with the electrical needs. I have gone as long as 30 hours running on the battery alone. We do not use the microwave unless we were connected to shore power. All of the electrical components are mounted in a cabinet behind the driver’s seat. As long as we drove at least a few hours each day (which we usually did) there was no problem recharging the AGM battery. If we stayed parked without driving for a couple of days the battery would get a bit low. On one such occasion I idled the engine for about an hour, it didn't seem to use very much fuel and was certainly quieter than a generator. The 600 watt inverter had no problem running the battery charger and the refrigerator while driving, but a couple of times when my son plugged in his laptop charger it overloaded and we had to reset it.

Furnishings – I built a fully enclosed floor to ceiling cabinet with a door for the porta potti, it’s a little cramp but you can get fully inside (and close the door) to do your business. I vented this with a 3 inch 12 volt bilge blower for a boat using a flex hose out the bottom rear of the van. I built a bunk bed behind the driver’s seat with storage underneath the bottom bunk. I made a simple cabinet for the fridge and microwave with the flat screen TV on a backboard up top, and another for the pump sink and storage, these are on the passenger side behind the sliding door. My design using the L-track to secure the cabinets allows me to remove the cabinets fairly easily should I ever need to use the van for cargo purposes.

I did not fit any water tanks, I am just using the porta-potti and a simple pump sink with a three gallon feed and a seven gallon waste bottle under the cabinet. All the cabinets are made of ½ Oak plywood with a bit of solid oak here and there. Cabinets and bed are glued, screwed, and biscuit jointed as appropriate. They are fairly light yet sturdy. I finished them in black cherry stain topped with satin polyurethane. I did not plan to do any serious cooking inside so I used a propane camping stove and a small propane barbecue for cooking outside.

Niggles – The side door is difficult to close properly, you really have to slam it. We found we preferred using the passenger side rear door when camped. The cab floor area is cramped, it’s not very easy to get from the front into the rear, I wish they had put the parking brake lever someplace else. The factory cargo LED lights seem to have a mind of their own and are blinding when you are sleeping late at night and someone opens a door. In heavy winds the van gets blown around, you have to keep a steady hand on the tiller. Otherwise I am very pleased with the van. If I were ordering one new I would definitely add the dual battery and heavy duty alternator, this would permit a larger inverter while driving. I also went with aftermarket window tint for the side door and rear door glass, it is OK but I am sure the factory tint is better. The huge windshield also makes a great target, I suffered one stone chip, also while driving across southern Minnesota and South Dakota the windshield and the whole front of the van was repeatedly plastered with bugs, it was not so easy for a short fellow like me to scrub them off with a squeegee at the fueling stops, I started using a little step stool!

Planned changes – When I get a little time later this year I want to re-do the electrical and maybe add a second 155hour AGM battery. I think I’ll stick with the components I have but try to come up with a better design of switches and plugs to make changing configurations easier. I think I’ll re-design the electrical cabinet so things have a little more room and are easier to access. I’d like to add a roof rack, possibly an awning, and maybe some solar panels (I have lots of questions about this but that’s another thread). I may even go with a swivel for the passenger seat. I also will definitely add a keyless entry pad.

I read this forum regularly and I really appreciate all the shared ideas and insight. I am planning to retire in a year or two so I plan to travel in my Transit extensively. I will gladly share my experiences and provide details of my build if anyone wants more info.

Thanks!


- Beridian, SE Michigan.
 

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More pics please and a suggestion. Your top bunk could be hinged to drop down making a backrest for bottom bunk. Dorm fridge is highly inefficient. Compressor fridges use a fraction of the power. Investing in fridge could save money by not needing solar and more battery. truckfridge.com is a start. Dorm fridge may also potentially vibrate apart. You may have this all figured out. Really like your build skills. Don't see many bunk setups. Thanks for sharing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Thanks for your input, I'll try to upload a few more pics later. Here is the fridge I used (SPT RF-334SS Compact Refrigerator, 3.3 Cubic Feet, Stainless Steel, Energy Star):



I think it has a compressor. I selected this fridge mainly because it is energy star rated and only uses 72 watts (I validated this using a killawatt meter). So far it has held up well and seems roomy and efficient, not to mention it was pretty cheap to buy (at the time it was $181). I had to mind my budget after purchasing the van, the entire build cost about $2500. One thing the fridge lacks that I wish it had is an interior light, I also have to secure the door from flying open while driving with a bungee cord. The truck and other 12 volt refrigerators that I looked at were much more expensive. Another benefit is if I used a 12volt fridge I would have to run much heavier wiring over to it, the 110VAC simplified the wiring.

I originally wanted the upper bunk bed to fold up or down, I still may modify the design at some point. When I fabricated it I was up against a time crunch (the Yellowstone trip was approaching). Also because it is made of wood I could not work out a sturdy and light weight way to make the upper fold-able while also keeping to my design goal of it being easily removable should I want to use the van for cargo hauling. I went with a bunk set up because I will be traveling (alternately) with either my son or daughter, and when I am traveling solo the upper bunk can be used for storage. On our Yellowstone trip we found the bunks very comfortable. I also learned that you can never have too much storage. These vans are large but when you are living in them they get pretty cramped.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Here are a few more pics. A note about the wire baskets on the wall, I was in a hurry to get a functional camper ready for the Yellowstone trip and I was running short of time so I opted to just hang some baskets here and there instead of making upper cabinets. They actually work pretty well, I may make some proper upper cabinets in the future.

I tried to include some detail of the bathroom. You can see the Thetford 92853 Porta Potti 550P, I am pretty happy with this model. The 3" boat bilge blower is in a chamber under the grill vent. The switches by the grill operate the light and the blower. The bilge blower is a bit loud (like a hair drier), but as my son noted, this is actually a good thing because it helps to mask the sounds of the festivities going inside while the bathroom is occupied. The shelf where the grill and the blower are located allows the cabinet to fit over the wheel well. I added a small locking medicine cabinet (so the door doesn't fly open while driving) and a few hooks. The bathroom is tight but it gets the job done. The yellowish finish on the inner walls is just the natural tone of the satin poly urethane on the bare oak plywood, I kind of like it. I sealed the floor seams with clear silicone caulk so that in the event the porta potti ever leaks it will be contained within the cabinet.

As a note, I had to carefully size the bathroom cabinet so that it can be removed and re-installed in the van. I had to make some test templates to determine the largest size that could be carried into the van horizontally (it will not go through the doors upright), then stood upright within the clearance allowed by the ceiling, it is a tight fit but it works. if you were installing things permanently you could obviously go much larger. If you choose to make things that are removable remember to consider getting them through the doors and re-orienting them into position, the van door openings obviously are smaller than the full interior dimensions.

The flat screen TV is on an extendable mount that can pull out and tilt down, it can even swing all the way around and face out the side door if you wanted to sit outside and watch. When driving we secure it to the backboard with a bungee so that it doesn't move around. Bungee's may be a bit crude but they make for a fast cheap solution to many a problem. I also used one as a makeshift paper towel holder. I would like to add some blackout curtains over the door windows in the future, and bungees hooked into the sheet metal slots around the windows seem like a cheap easy solution for hanging the curtains.
 

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Your fridge is an absorption fridge like a home fridge but doesn't matter if it's working for you. I really like your build. I like the baskets and envy your woodworking skills. Portapottis rock. Simple and can be dumped anywhere there is a toilet. For some reason lots of people are squeamish about them. I had the Thetford Curve in my last van and loved it.I even did a YouTube video on it. If you ever feel like your bathroom is a little too tight you can take off the door and replace with a heavy curtain. I'm sure you'll figure out what to do with the extra lumber. Keep us posted on your rig and thanks.
 

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Thank you very much for the posts - just ordered my Van to convert today, now the waiting and planning begins. Will use your posts for some ideas
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
I bought the carpet adhesive at Home Depot, 6700 4-gal. Indoor/Outdoor Carpet and Artificial Turf Adhesive, it's thick with the consistency of pudding. The carpet also came from Home Depot, in-stock and off the roll in the store. It turned out I liked that in-stock pile and color, and it was a bargain price compared to other carpet samples that I looked at and would have had to order. I think I bought about twenty yards and have quite a bit left over. The then-empty Ford Transit van came in very handy hauling the carpet and plywood panels home!

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Roberts-...and-Artificial-Turf-Adhesive-6700-4/100174878

It was kind of messy to glue the carpet to the panels, I tried to glue up two or even three panels at a time, then I would lay them on the garage floor and pile heavy objects on them to press them down (I learned to place scrap cardboard or craft paper underneath and between the panels, the glues oozes out and gets everywhere). You apply the glue using a notched trowel. You have to let it dry at least 48 hours and even then the glue is still a bit soft. I would cut the carpet piece larger than the panel, glue it up and wait 48 hours, then trim the carpet to the exact panel size using a razor knife. When I glued the ceiling panels I put 2x4s stood-on-edge under the edges of the panels and piled heavy objects on top to help form them into an arc shape to match the roof line. I was a bit worried especially about the ceiling panels but after two long trips and four months nothing has come loose, also no problem with odors from the glue. At first there was the nuisance of loose fibers from the new carpet but after a few thorough vacuumings that has subsided.

I bought the L-track and most of the fittings at US Cargo Control, I bought a few fittings from Amazon.com

http://www.uscargocontrol.com/Aluminum-Finish-L-Track
 

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I next screwed (with backing nuts) three horizontal rows of airline track (L-track) to the wall ribs; one row near the ceiling, one row about 2 feet off the floor, and one row at the floor.
when you say "with backing nuts", does that mean ordinary nuts? or did you use threaded rivets of some sort? and since that's a lot of rivet nuts if so, which rivets and insertion tool did you use?

paul
 

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Nice presentation of your work. I needed the encouragement since my full conversion seems to be taking a long time to get things right!
Thank you
 

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Nice presentation of your work. I needed the encouragement since my full conversion seems to be taking a long time to get things right!
Thank you
You are not alone about conversions taking a long time. I am on my second and last conversion and do not see any difference on the time it takes. Frustrating at times.

http://www.ortontransit.info/
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
What I mean by backing nuts is that I drilled holes through the van steel, put stainless steel machine screws through the L track hole, then fastened it from the back side with a washer and lock nut on the back side of the van rib.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Thanks for the complements. Its funny but I am already planning revision 2.0 of my build. The first time around I was in a bit of a hurry. Now that I have spent some time in the van and had time to think it over I think I am going to make some changes. One thing I noted after camping in the van is that with the current layout there really is no space for just hanging out, say on a rainy day. My current bunk bed design is great for sleeping but hogs too much space. I would like to open things up more and make the van a bit nicer inside for purposes other than sleeping.

My plans:

(1) Put the bunkbeds (removable platforms) all the way aft across the rear doors making use of the wide width of the van (me and my people are short, the finished width is about 68 inches). Also make the upper bunk a bit lower so it is easier to get into and out of.

(2) Keep the bathroom cabinet but move it forward about 18 inches.

(3) Put a small dinette (two single seats with a removable table) behind the drivers seat.

(4) Put in the factory side window (with the opening) behind the drivers seat.

(5) Change the passenger side cabinets so that they are uniformly lower and protrude more into the sliding door opening, also arrange the refigerator so that the door faces the front of the van, this will make accessing it easier. I may fabricate an upper cabinet for my small microwave.

(6) Pretty sure I'll add a second 155 amp hour house battery bringing my total up to 310.

(7) I may also try to rig a small grey water tank under the van so that I can free up cabinet space, I currently have a 7 gallon bottle for grey water under the sink.

I also bought a sewing machine and plan to make my own curtains, I may also take a stab at making my own upholstery and cushions. One thing I learned from last year's trips, you need all the storage space you can get. Also plan as many places as you can for hanging clothes (pegs and such, allow room for shirts to hang freely). I think I may try to get the local Ford body shop to cut the hole and put in the drivers side glass. I saw a thread here where someone did it themselves but I think I am a bit too chicken to cut a big hole in the side of my van.

I'll keep you guys posted as I go, looks like I have my spring season spare time planned out for me. Fortunately the big stuff is done and I will be able to reuse much of my previous work.

- Brian
 

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I bought the carpet adhesive at Home Depot, 6700 4-gal. Indoor/Outdoor Carpet and Artificial Turf Adhesive, it's thick with the consistency of pudding. The carpet also came from Home Depot, in-stock and off the roll in the store. It turned out I liked that in-stock pile and color, and it was a bargain price compared to other carpet samples that I looked at and would have had to order. I think I bought about twenty yards and have quite a bit left over. The then-empty Ford Transit van came in very handy hauling the carpet and plywood panels home!

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Roberts-...and-Artificial-Turf-Adhesive-6700-4/100174878

It was kind of messy to glue the carpet to the panels, I tried to glue up two or even three panels at a time, then I would lay them on the garage floor and pile heavy objects on them to press them down (I learned to place scrap cardboard or craft paper underneath and between the panels, the glues oozes out and gets everywhere). You apply the glue using a notched trowel. You have to let it dry at least 48 hours and even then the glue is still a bit soft. I would cut the carpet piece larger than the panel, glue it up and wait 48 hours, then trim the carpet to the exact panel size using a razor knife. When I glued the ceiling panels I put 2x4s stood-on-edge under the edges of the panels and piled heavy objects on top to help form them into an arc shape to match the roof line. I was a bit worried especially about the ceiling panels but after two long trips and four months nothing has come loose, also no problem with odors from the glue. At first there was the nuisance of loose fibers from the new carpet but after a few thorough vacuumings that has subsided.

I bought the L-track and most of the fittings at US Cargo Control, I bought a few fittings from Amazon.com

http://www.uscargocontrol.com/Aluminum-Finish-L-Track
I want to echo what other's have said - Nice build, great fit and finish, definitely something to aspire to. I went with a 12V fridge (Norcold 751), it's a very low power consumer, and quiet. Only problem is it's fairly expensive ($750 or so).

How do you like the L-track? I'm thinking about using some powder coated L track hardware for tie-downs and gear stowage to blend in with my cabinets, did you consider E track? I think someone else on the forum who does moto (EddieZ?), used it instead. I like the look and apparent function of the L track over the E track but haven't used either. I figure, if it's good enough for the airlines, it must be good enough for me!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
How do you like the L-track?

A primary design goal was flexibility and the ability to remove furnishings so that the van can be used for cargo. I considered E track but I did not like the appearance of E track and there were not stud type fittings (see image below) for E - track that allow cabinets to be directly fastened to the track. I certainly prefer L track over E track, however if your primary concern is cargo handling I think E track is more appropriate. I thought about using the color coated L-track but I imagine that the color would get scratched off and it would end up looking crappy, thus I went with the plain aluminum color.

If I had instead simply fasted furnishings to the van frames using existing anchor points or riv-nuts it would have simplified my build, however this would be at the price of flexibility. As I posted earlier I am already planning a major revision of the floor plan and the L-tracks will make this transition easier and allow me to reuse most of my earlier work.

Probably my biggest complaints about the L-track is that it and its fittings are expensive. The other issue is that the available stud fittings are short and I have had to fabricate steel brackets to anchor cabinets (the studs are too short to reach through 1/2 or 3/4 plywood and leave enough room for a washer and nut). I have had to expend a great deal of time and effort engineering attachment methods to anchor my furnishings to the L-track.
 

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