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Discussion Starter #41 (Edited)
Yeah it looks great. I have been stalking you here and also ADV lol.

Can you tell me where you sourced the aluminum and clips? I plan to panel mine in the same way that you did but I have got windows in mine. I may use speaker fabric or something fairly durable on the panels. What's the plan for the bed?

The L-Track or aviation track I purchased in Canada from Kinedyne but if you are in the United States you have a lot more options like Cargo Control etc. I did even have to buy and ship some specific L track fasteners from the States as they weren't available up here.

I used 9 X 100 inch sections of L track so far and I have 2 other tapered L track 100 inch lengths for the floor area if I end up using them.

I used an indoor outdoor carpet for the panels as it's very durable.

You will be in for a very time consuming process making the panels around the Windows the same way I did but in the end any additional room created (for the windowless cargo) was well worth it.

Good luck with the build ask any questions I may be able to help with and post up some pictures when you are building it, I'd love to see them.

Edit - The bed frame I'm going to get a few other things done like finishing the window inlays before I really make a decision on. I have some ideas and have seen some great ideas but have been out of town working for the last week so nothing van related was accomplished.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
For the most part I used 1/4 x 20 stainless with flats , and nylock nuts anywhere I could contort a hand or tool in on the backside.
Anywhere there was no access I used riv nut inserts.

The Lock N Load's are a lot like the Baxley type chalks I have but my only issue is once you start angling bikes in they take up a lot of floor space and you are unable to get the bikes exactly where you want them. I used them exclusively in my old van and loved them.

That mini bulkhead also has removed any kind of flex the van seemed to have or oil can type noises from the vast sheet metal panels.
 

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Interesting. I tried a rivnut on mine yesterday (1/4 20) with a tool called the Nutter and the outside flange pushed right through the sheet metal. It pinched down like it was supposed to but the entire rivet ended up on the other side of the sheet metal. I assume it was operator error...could have also been because the rivnut flange was really small (aluminum rivnuts that came with the tool). Maybe need to order some better ones.

The bulkhead looks like a nice solution.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Interesting. I tried a rivnut on mine yesterday (1/4 20) with a tool called the Nutter and the outside flange pushed right through the sheet metal. It pinched down like it was supposed to but the entire rivet ended up on the other side of the sheet metal. I assume it was operator error...could have also been because the rivnut flange was really small (aluminum rivnuts that came with the tool). Maybe need to order some better ones.

The bulkhead looks like a nice solution.

I will say not all riv nuts or riv nut tools are created equal. I tried several before I found the ones I liked and trusted. I say trust because they are a pain to remove if they are just wheeling in the hole and don't get tight.

I'm at the shop working and don't have the box with me at the moment but I did find one 1/4 x 20 floating in the console.



And I used a really nice Blue Point rivet tool to set them.

I used an indexed bit to make the holes and if you are going to do any more than one of these I highly recommend buying one.


Sadly there are some places in this van (shy of importing child labour with tiny hands) that you just can't reach with a washer and Nylock nut making the riv nuts a necessity.

Here's a sneak peak at what I'm doing today with the window opening covers.

The hard part is building them out to the attached strips I glued in with the 3m 5200 fc. The hard part being that the depth of he window inlay fades from front to back so I used two strips of 1 x 6 where they are the thickest towards the drivers area and then having to fade it thinner towards the rear of the van.




In the end it will be better because there will be more support for the 1/4 carpeted panels to be screwed off to and it offers some strength in the middle at handle bar height should I go Evil Keneivel loading a bike :)
 

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Looking good. Thanks for the info. I realized I need an indexed bit after the first hole! Regular drill bits are sketchy with such thin metal. Think I'll order some new rivnuts too! I'm in awe of your liberal use of L-Track...I definitely want more in my van. As for the Lock n Load, I still think that'll be a good solution for my van...it's a wagon and a want something that keeps the bikes solidly in the middle, away from the windows...and hope no one goes "Evel Kenievel" loading their bike into the van. I need 2 places with an option (later) for a 3rd in between (perhaps backward)...any more than that and I'll take my enclosed.

Enjoying the build! Keep the updates coming!
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Well made some headway this weekend , my stapler crapped out again so I'm left with one panel carpeted and another awaiting carpet. Oh well the hard part is done the panels are made.

Here's the side door awaiting carpet and my new stapler.



Trust me these are not fun to make cardboard templates , wood templates bla bla but I knew what I was getting into when I scrapped the pre fab kit and in the end I knew what I wanted the inlay panels to look like so the journey is worth it I guess.



All the different depths of wood are to mimic the taper in the window frame itself. It goes from being built out 1 3/4 at the back to 1/2 on the front.


Final result for the panel behind the drivers seat




It's not much but man hours and inching forward.
 

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Wow, yeah those panels are a bitch to get right but the results are worth it!

That looks nice!

I plan to apply the same obsessive attention to detail to every part of my build. Looks great, can't wait to see all the panels installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Love this build. I just wanted to know if you have had any issues with the rear overhang while getting to riding areas?

I haven't yet , I can see that a person would have to be kinda mindful of it but surprisingly it's not as big of an issue as one would think.

There was a few quite steep driveways I wondered about but so far I've never rubbed anywhere.

Thanks for the kind words

Fan kit should be here any day and I hope to hammer out a few more panels maybe this weekend. I think the fan will wait for some warmer temps for the instal.

Who am I kidding a van project is never really completed.
 

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I've been lurking on the forum sucking up ideas for building my own moto hauler. I appreciate seeing the pics of how the bikes fit. It's helped me decide to choose the extended body. The bike will go passenger side rear since there's only one and I'm used to standing on its left. Now to figure out where everything else goes.
 

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What are your ideas for tying down a toolbox?

I use a ~3ft tall rolling craftsman box. I used a tie down to hold it against the wall for my first trip, and it was sliding around a lot.

I'm thinking of putting a hook hangar on both sides of the box (on L track), then a tie down around the box to O rings just outside the hooks.
 

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Discussion Starter #55 (Edited)
In my old van I had a 3 level box up against the bulkhead directly behind the drivers seat. Each box was screwed to each other and I pulled all the drawers out and screwed it off to the bulkhead as well as through the floor. I then had two E track single securement points right beside the box itself and tied down from the handles with ratchet straps.



Overkill yes. But I didn't want it crushing me in an accident.

Best part is I was out riding hours away and got a call from the cops that my van had been broken into. Normally the alarm would have gone off but there was some heavy earthmoving equipment working in the area that was always setting the alarm off so I didn't have it armed.

The best part was I had a sun screen in the front window so the one asshat was trying to get the stereo out and asshat #2 was in the back trying to get the toolbox out when the police quietly rolled up and caught them both inside my van :)

I put the box in and it would have taken me hours to remove it knowing every place I had it mounted.

$1200 damage to the van later and 2 X asshats in custody later haha


Sorry now to the question

I do plan on using a smaller toolbox on this build and I plan on mounting it to the L track through the backside of the box and through the floor also on an L track riser. I have a few different L track attachment options in the Arsenal to achieve this. But I think I'll be using the stud fittings.


Same as the old box the first thing I will do is to remove the wheels and make it a more permanent fixture.

I do have a few of the hook hangers I think you are describing and I'm not sure I would trust them enough for this task. They as well as these L track mounts

Will actually float around a little inside the L track and rattle whereas the stud fittings are rigid and very solid in the track.
 

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those bolt threaded stud fittings are a good idea. When I get home / to the race track, I'll be taking my toolbox in and out, so I need a removable solution.
 

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Nice job, great looking bike hauler, work of art, love it. Thanks for sharing.
 
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