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Discussion Starter #183 (Edited)
And began getting rid of the checkerplate for regular aluminum threshold I had bent up.




We’ll call that phase 2 of Van Upgrades.

Stereo instal , speakers , and welding threshold ( not me welding ) coming next.

Any question fire away
 

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Discussion Starter #184 (Edited)
Sorry for the big dump of pictures and information but it’s been a long few weeks.

So I have been purchasing and stockpiling a bunch of stereo equipment to go into the transit that will also be run off the house system. Originally I was going to just mount the JVC KW740BT Double Din deck in the back but opted for the front and pulled power by way of an 8 gauge wire to the dash.

So I’m not going to mess with the head unit instal so it’s onto speaker installation.

I purchased 4 Focal 6x9 speakers for the rear of the van




I wired the 4 speakers in Parallel (left and right rear) and pulled the wires to the front and down the passenger A pillar. I eliminated the rear door speakers all together. I took the passenger door panel off as per Hein’s video and was going to instal the 6.5 “ Focal components in but was taken away for something else and I was dropping it off the next day for the head unit , amp installation and figured they’d be better suited to do the crossovers etc as they’d like.

I’m sure glad I didn’t tackle the Head Unit myself as they had nothing but problems with the Maestro interface and the fact the hazard switch was different with my 6.5” stock stereo than the kit that they’d ordered.

So still waiting a different cable but the 4 Focal 6x9’s and the door component speakers running off the 1200 watt amp sound pretty amazing. The problem lies with not having steering wheel controls , or back up camera at the moment but it goes back in Tuesday for that.

The hazard switch was a bit of a run around as this is what my stock one looks like


This is the Metra kit opening


Even when we ran my vin it states that the 13A350 SW-7396 switch that fits the Metra kit was what came stock in my van. I even double checked the vin of a van on their lot that has the same switch I need and it states the same.

Oh well it’s ordered and should be here in a week and I’ll plop it in the vacant hole when it comes.


This was a small victory , I’ll have to arrange the gauges and get the boost gauge and organize them.


I tested out the screen kit I ordered from
downbytheriver too




Should keep the mozzies
Out and the fun in

Once again sorry for the info dump
 

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Ok so onto Operation house battery....... the lights arrived today but it was full steam ahead on the house batteries.

So my needs were that I wished to stay away from solar at this point as I’d just personally sooner have the alternator do the work or the odd time have the ability for shore power to charge and/or maintain my house Batteries. The beauty of this is it will also charge the Van batteries and even start the van from my house batteries if they ever die an unexpected death while on a trip in the middle of nowhere.

So I purchased
2 x 6 Volt 220 AH AGM batteries
Xantrex 40 amp Smartcharge 2
Xantrex Smartcharge 2 Remote
200 amp Bi-Directional switch w/ aux start option
Samlex 1500 watt Pure Sine inverter
Blue Sea ST Blade Fuse Block
4 gauge battery cable Red and Black
Battery terminals & 4 gauge eyelets and crimped my own cables
2 x 150 amp resettable breakers
1 x 100 amp resettable breaker
And an existing 13 amp Noco plug to attach to shore power and to hook the 120 volts to the smart charger.

So first off I set about building a battery box out of aluminum extrusion and it sat in a somewhat wasted space between my drivers seat and my toolbox.




1/4 plywood and carpeted the front and will carpet and make a top panel once I finish all the wiring and fitting the Xantrex smart charge2 , Samlex inverter and the Blue Sea Fuse Block inside it.



The first was to run a 12 volts positive cable off the stock batteries under the drivers seat to the first 150 amp breaker. You can see it in the picture on the back of the seat pedestal This allows you to hit the button on the breaker and completely separate the two systems from each other.


The next step is running another 4 gauge cable from the 150 amp breaker to the 200 amp bi directional switch seen further toward the wall near the bottom of the seat. It’s relatively smart as it will only charge the house batteries once the Van batteries have reached 13.2 volts. It then starts charging the house batteries and the van falls below 12.8 volts it disconnects from the house batteries and just concentrates on charging the Van batteries.



Top view of Battery box


So today was a success as I made it as far as hooking the two 6 volts together in series and tying them all into the bi directional switch and through the 150 amp breaker. Fired the van up and heard the click of the separator and it was sending juice to the house system ..... no burning , no smoke , no boom , no batteries blowing up and my pale white skin is all intact.

Tomorrow will be wiring the Xantrex and the Samlex to all work and tying in all my other power needs to the house batteries. More chance for boom , smoke and fire.
Nice work! Any photos of inside of the box with all the equipment installed?

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #186
Here is the top view of the box with the cover off. Hard to see but the Xantrex is elevated off the Samlex inverter and the front side facing the drivers seat is 100% open to aid airflow


Here’s a top view with the lid on


Here is the Samlex Remote on the front of the box


And the power bar installed in the top of the toolbox.
 

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I'm glad I found your build thread. Bravo!!! Thanks so much for sharing.

Great ideas for toy hauling! Really like the mini bulkhead & L-track everywhere. Motos & mountain bikes are my cargo. :)

I'm considering L-track to mount a 2-person crew seat to the floor. Can you share details of how you secured L-track to floor?


Thanks again & Happy Holidays!

Catfish ...
 

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Thank you for including the detail photos of the seat base and external cable routing. The grounding cable is just visible to the side of the seat base in one of the photos. Out of curiosity, where did you ultimately connect the grounding cable?
 

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Discussion Starter #190
I'm glad I found your build thread. Bravo!!! Thanks so much for sharing.



Great ideas for toy hauling! Really like the mini bulkhead & L-track everywhere. Motos & mountain bikes are my cargo. :)



I'm considering L-track to mount a 2-person crew seat to the floor. Can you share details of how you secured L-track to floor?





Thanks again & Happy Holidays!



Catfish ...


Thanks catfish , the floor mounted L Track I used 1/4 x 20 stainless hardware with stainless nylock nuts and large fender washers to disperse any load they may receive. With holes every 4” on the L track you really do get lots of surface area and holding power.

Once you start trying to mount things through the floor it really becomes a case of will it fit here without hitting a Cross brace , rib , gusset etc on the bottom side. Really measure 14 times and drill once.

The battery box extrusion is mounted the same way with T nut studs , large fender washers and nylock nuts too.

I built everything so nothing would become a projectile if things ever went pear shaped and I was in an accident.
 

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Discussion Starter #191 (Edited)
Thank you for including the detail photos of the seat base and external cable routing. The grounding cable is just visible to the side of the seat base in one of the photos. Out of curiosity, where did you ultimately connect the grounding cable?


The grounding cable is still at the side of the seat base as that’s where the guy who helped at the battery store wanted it located vs to the Battery itself. I think the confusion earlier is with the smart isolator I’m using , as it doesn’t even call for the ground but I was told to ground the new battery bank to a good van ground and that particular spot was the best of both worlds.

Having used the system for the last 6 months it has worked flawlessly. At one point I was out of town and let the maxxair fan run for weeks on end cooling the interior and would just plug the van in outside my hotel room and everything was being topped up and charged off the Xantrex 40amp charger. I’m actually really happy with the way it has worked so far.

I do know for many solar is a way better option but so far with my needs and the fact it’s purpose built for my business I’m very happy with how it’s worked out.

Currently the van is in storage and covered in snow (which would negate solar charging ) and it gets plugged into 110v regularly which tops up both the house and the Vans dual AGM’s
 

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@haulin-gas-adventures


Great build and enjoyed reading. questions:


Did I read correctly that you only used the wall and ceiling kit as a template in order to cut your own panels? If so, I do understand why from reading. Also if so, what did you do with them...still have them?


Where did you source the "mini aluminum extrusion bulkhead"? Can you post a pic of how you attached this to the L track?


Thanks!


BRAPPP....
 

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Discussion Starter #193 (Edited)
@haulin-gas-adventures


Great build and enjoyed reading. questions:


Did I read correctly that you only used the wall and ceiling kit as a template in order to cut your own panels? If so, I do understand why from reading. Also if so, what did you do with them...still have them?


Where did you source the "mini aluminum extrusion bulkhead"? Can you post a pic of how you attached this to the L track?


Thanks!


BRAPPP....


I purchased it to use , but couldn’t live with it or the fit. Yeah I think the floor is the only thing that survived the build from that kit.

As far as the Bulkhead I didn’t take many pictures when I was building it sadly.

The bulkhead is 40mm x 160mm extrusion and I used L-track studs and 40 x 80 mm extrusion brackets.

This was the start of it.


Purchased some plastic covers to clean up the look and tidy up the corner brackets.


M

I used these studs from the L Track to the corner brackets. IMG_6206.jpg

Then I built a little inlay panel so it ties in with the rest of the van.

 

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Discussion Starter #199
The beams are aluminum extrusion , I was lucky enough my buddy had some stock in them as he uses them for his work.

8020.net should have them too and if you are in the US it would be an option.

The ones I used were 40mm x 120mm but you can order any size you’d like. It’s very interesting stuff , lots of attachment options.
 

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The white looks very clean and tidy Roscoe.

Well a few more pictures from today's progress

Finished the drivers side lower wall. I'm going to build some sort of a shelf near the door to make use of the space where the body line flares in there.

Finished the passenger side lower wall too.


now to work my way upward on the walls while still retaining as mush space as possible so I'll retain the window sill area and then sheet and carpet a window cover and go back to the 1/8 plywood covered in carpet for the window surround.

I just wanted to use 1/2 ply for the lower kick panels and it matches the L track.

Still didn't instal he mudflaps. Might have to tell work that my Pretenda-nitis is flaring up and I won't be available tomorrow. loving working on this van and loving spending time with my father doing it.

And last but not least thanks to orton I will have a footwell transition piece for the sliding door now.
I am loving this build. Question on the L-track... are those vertical pieces adding support? Or are they serving another purpose? I am debating picking up the Adventure Wagon L-track brackets, but I don't necessarily need vertical L-track. Is it safe to mount directly to the van like that and have the bed + ~2 people's weight?
 
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