[Alison]

This thread has been incredibly helpful along with Hein and Munky's. My diagram is basically their illegitimate child.

Backtracking to the CCP bypass with a bunch of questions....

I have the 250SA without the Smartpass and one 100W solar panel. CTEK said that would work for my 125ah AGM house battery. CTEK recommends a 30A fuse on both the alternator and solar inputs and on output. Would I be okay connecting to the CCP with a 30A fuse between that and the battery switch? Or should I go ahead and do the bypass and a fuse? Or use a 30A breaker on the bypass instead of 60A?

My output 30A fuse would go between the 250SA and the positive bus bar, and keep the 150A fuse at the house battery terminal? No one else seems to be fusing this line - but I'm guessing that's because the Smartpass recommends a 300A fuse, and the house battery is fused at a lower amperage?

Regarding the Xantrex switch - without it, your 15a power strip for AC would be coming off your inverter?

I *think* I understand everything else.

 

[Alison]

Alison,

Could you do a sketch? I'm having a hard time following, but more due to my lack of sleep.

jpg attached from the manual
https://www.autoelec.com.au/assets/brochures/D250SA-manual-UK-EN.pdf

Draft attached with a 30A fuse on the CCP. After reading Antoine's new electric post I switched the buses & house battery terminal fuse to 250A because of my inverter size. Probaby unnecessary. I'll have more on the DC circuit but don't expect to go over 30 amps.

 

[Alison]

The Xantrex switch is used to provide AC power either from shore power (if plugged in) or from inverter. If plugged in to shore power, all AC power in van comes from shore (so as to not pull from inverter, and therefore house batteries). If not plugged in to shore power, AC power is from inverter. It senses the incoming source and does this (switches) automatically which is very nice!

The 30A fuse on solar input seems excessive. I have 2 - 100w panels and am using a 20A inline fuse. The most I have seen from solar so far is around 8 amps (although I haven't had the house batteries drawn down too much since my solar was installed).

I would probably go with a breaker between the CCP and battery switch..or have the fuse easily accessible to be able to change if needed.

Cool, thanks - I think I will add the Xantrex and do the breaker.

Good point

In that case, to simplify, something like a BlueSea 7035 - 25 Amp Circuit breaker/switch should work. Two styles are available.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/7035/187-Series_Circuit_Breaker_-_Panel_Mount_25A
https://www.bluesea.com/products/7135/187-Series_Circuit_Breaker_-_Surface_Mount_25A

Thanks, I have a few of these already: [ame]https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OTJ87I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1[/ame]

Do you think that will work, or is the 187-series you linked better for this application?

 

[Alison]

@tom - I was surprised how small it was when I found it as well. My negative bus bar is pretty close though (about 1ft) on the passenger side - think it would be alright if I add a washer?