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LSD: Eaton Detroit Truetrac 913A477 Technical only

72K views 125 replies 55 participants last post by  moonmeister 
#1 ·
I would like this thread to stay focused on the installation of an Eaton Truetrac 913A477 differential. If you contribute, please do not speculate about the merits of LSD, or weather one should use a locker or other type differential. I would like this post only to list descriptions, P/Ns, supporting kits and results of forum members who have installed, or are about to install a Torsen type differential. (I read all the postings to date and they are all filled with conjectures, opinions and side-bar discussions, that make if difficult for anyone to quickly determine what they need to install LSD in their transit.)

Ford 9.75" Eaton Detroit TrueTrac | 34 Spline - 2017 street price - $539.99
- P/N 913A477
- Requires: 1.370" diameter 34 spline axles.
- Type LSD: Torsen
- Torque Bias Ratio: 3.5:1
- Cover = 12 bolt
- Pinion nut: 1-1/8

- Fits all OEM Transit gear ratios

This differential is installed the most in 2011-2017 Ford F150s with 9.75 rear ends.

Other rebuild kits that may be needed for installation, depending on mileage of van.
Crush sleeve and Master bearing kit
Example: Yukon Gear Bearing kit BK F9.75-D

To help stiffen up the pumpkin, F-150 forums recommend that you replace the steel cover with an aluminum girdle cover: Such as a Yukon YP C3-F9.75 - Street price around $200.
(This type of cover has bolts in the cover that secure to the bearing caps to add additional stiffiness.)

There is also an "Axle Crush Sleeve Eliminator Kit" available. (Anyone use one of these?)

Enjoy.
 
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#2 ·
I have the factory Clutch type LSD in my transit. I put a truetrac in my 2005 suburban. The truetrac is reasonably civilized and my wife never noticed a difference after the install. You could provoke it to pop if you got a little frisky mid corner. The ford factory LSD is slightly more civilized but again my wife doesn't even know its there. Also if anyone has driven a GM G80 locker the eaton behaves similarly. Its also important that if you install the truetrac you need NON synthetic gear oil. If you use synthetic it will not want to lock as easily. I think the oem and the locking LSD serve the same purpose in an on road 2wd application. Off road I would probably go locker. I really don't think the aftermarket cover is necessary on a transit, its not like you can install 35" tires.
 
#3 ·
I purchased the Eaton TrueTrac from Summit Racing earlier this year and had my son-in-law who is a ASE mechanic install it for me. I am very satisfied with the TrueTrac as it is quiet and not noticeable in operation.

I was real happy with the service that Summit Racing gave me, they recommended that I purchase 12 new ring gear bolts, new carrier bearings, a shim Kit and 3 qts of the correct GL5 gear oil. I could return anything that I didn't use. I didn't use the shim kit as the Eaton diff. ended up having a better contact pattern on the differential than the stock Ford open diff. had. Excellent product. Excellent service and a prompt refund on the shim kit that I didn't use.

Ended up costing $712.31 for the parts. Your labor costs will be higher than mine.



Keefer.
 
#4 ·
...Ended up costing $712.31 for the parts. Your labor costs will be higher than mine.
Keefer.
I ordered the Ford Eaton 9.75 Trutrac LSD and supporting parts from Summit today. My total came to $977. I'll post the numbers of what I purchased. I must have purchased a more expensive Yukon rebuild kit than the parts you ordered.

I am looking for a company that sells the bearing cap stud kit. I like studs and nuts versus bolts for the bearing caps.
 
#5 ·
Great Thread Idea! ...I bought a used 2015 T250 with no LSD and just recently bought a 913A477 Truetrac for installation by my local differential shop. I have also read about the importance of using GL5 dino oil for it's correct operation. I am also interested in hearing about the supporting kits for installation like the bearing cap stud kit, etc. Thanks!
 
#6 · (Edited)
LSD Installation update: Because of the weather, I went ahead and had a local auto service center install my LSD. Therefore no pictures.
A couple of comments.
1. They called me and told me there was a growling sound coming out of the rear end when the van slows down.
- I test drove it and sure enough the differential makes a sound only during deceleration. No noise steady state or accelerating.
- The shop claims the backlash is .008" and new bearings were installed and properly pre-loaded.
- I called the Summit technical support hotline and they believe that it is probably the gears. They stated to drive it for a couple thousand miles and see if it gradually gets quiet.

I also found out that my expensive B&M cover couldn't be used on my Dually. The rear sway bar sits too close to the factory cover. - I'll start working on a way to space out the sway bar mounts so it fits. Project for another day..._

I need to get my winter tires on the van and drive it in some snow.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Had a Eaton Detroit Truetrac torsen type differential installed in my 2017 T-350 wagon. Was an open differential and will need the traction for the snow in Michigan.

Took it to a rear end specialty shop that was highly recommended and does many of these (Warren axle and gear in Warren, Michigan)

Cost:$930 total

paid $597 for the unit
$255 labor (3 hours @ $85/hr)
$40 for gear lube and shop supplies

Used normal non synthetic without friction modifier gear lube, as eaton recommends

Shop supplied everything including the truetrac unit

absolutely no driveability or noise difference from the stock open differential but i have only had it a few days
 
#30 · (Edited)
LSD swap - Ford dealership can't help with parts



Hi kc8flb,
I'm going through what others have gone through where no techs around here know how to do the work. I have one saying he can do it for 3 hours as a starter if I bring in the part. So here's where I get stuck. Ford dealership/Parts cannot help. I have a sticker on my side door that says my axle is "31" (guessing 31 splines?) and my VIN says my axle ratio is 3.73. My wheelbase is 148" and I have the 3.5L EcoBoost. Eaton needs the axle LENGTH. How do i find this??? If Ford parts guys can't help while looking at their diagrams then how can i solve this mystery? Ugh :|
3stageMotorSports is telling me that since its basically a F150 I have two options for the Eaton Truetrac:
8.8” rear, 31 spline
913A561
9.75" rear, 34 spline
913A477
I'm guessing I need the 913A561 because of my "31" axle? But definitely not sure.
Anyone have a clue? lol
Thanks for your time brother,
Benny
 
#9 ·
I'm seriously considering having this done, BUT dealing with Ford dealers is futile. I have the T350 148" MR 3.7 V6 w/3.73 open diff.

  • 1st Ford Dealer: Said I could upgrade to the OEM LS. $190 for the gears and MAYBE (?) $146 for the clutch packs. $32 a litre for diff fluid (up to four bottles) and $6 for additive. To install it, I was was told 8 hours labour @ $115/hr.
  • Local Drivetrain Expert: Said I needed to know what kind of rear axle it was and the specs so he could look up the correct parts. Est $1250 for parts and 4 hours labour (don't know their rate).
  • 2nd Ford Dealer: I couldn't upgrade to a Ford LS. Asked about the rear diff specs, he couldn't tell me anything as nothing showed except a part number.
  • 3rd Ford Dealer: See 2nd Ford Dealer.

Ended up calling Ford head office to get an answer (hopefully 100% confirmed) on whether I can upgrade with Ford parts or do I have to go aftermarket and get the proper specs for the rear diff so I can have a limited slip. I have a case # and to be escalated. I'm supposed to get a phone call mid week coming.

See what happens.
 
#12 ·
It’s a Ford 9.75 axle, quite common. You don’t need a dealer to do the work and I can’t imagine why you might prefer to have a dealer do this type of work. I would imagine, sort of as you’ve found out, that it’s not a common thing for them.

Look around you for an off-road shop, someone that works on Jeeps, etc. A 4Wheel Parts branch can do it. You want someone who frequently does regearing/diff jobs.

Good luck and let us know what you decide.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#13 ·
It’s a Ford 9.75 axle, quite common. You don’t need a dealer to do the work and I can’t imagine why you might prefer to have a dealer do this type of work. I would imagine, sort of as you’ve found out, that it’s not a common thing for them.

Look around you for an off-road shop, someone that works on Jeeps, etc. A 4Wheel Parts branch can do it. You want someone who frequently does regearing/diff jobs.

Good luck and let us know what you decide.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I just find it funny that 3 Ford dealers cannot answer this simple question(s). Let alone the local drive train specialist. See what Ford head office tells me. That will reveal how trustworthy they are.
 
#18 ·
Like the other posters have said, you have the Ford 9.75 rear axle. It is common and had been in many Ford vehicles including most variants of the f150 for the last 20 years. The rear end shop will be familiar with them.

Also like the other posters have said, dealerships don't usually do much rear end work and they don't usually install aftermarket rear end differentials. Your local rear end/drive line/off road shop will have way more experience installing this than a dealership would.

I noticed that you may be unsure whether to go with the true Trac or the factory Ford limited slip. The true Trac is the way to go. No clutch packs to wear out and smooth lockup. Perfect for on road snow traction and light off roading and beach sand. Should last longer than your vehicle with regular gear oil changes.

Make sure your installer does not use synthetic gear oil and does not use friction modifier. True Trac specifically calls for gl5 non synthetic non friction modifier gear oil. They specifically state that synthetic oil and/or friction modifier will cause a decrease in true Trac performance.

Synthetic oil is a better oil generally but It is NOT better in a True Trac.

This should cost you between $1000 and $1500 in parts and labor depending on if your installer can reuse bearings and other parts. My transit had 15,000 miles on it when mine was done and they were able and comfortable to reuse the bearings. I would have no problems paying the extra if they felt they needed to use new ones (I even told them that)

Good luck
 
#78 ·
Like the other posters have said, you have the Ford 9.75 rear axle. It is common and had been in many Ford vehicles including most variants of the f150 for the last 20 years. The rear end shop will be familiar with them.

Also like the other posters have said, dealerships don't usually do much rear end work and they don't usually install aftermarket rear end differentials. Your local rear end/drive line/off road shop will have way more experience installing this than a dealership would.

I noticed that you may be unsure whether to go with the true Trac or the factory Ford limited slip. The true Trac is the way to go. No clutch packs to wear out and smooth lockup. Perfect for on road snow traction and light off roading and beach sand. Should last longer than your vehicle with regular gear oil changes.

Make sure your installer does not use synthetic gear oil and does not use friction modifier. True Trac specifically calls for gl5 non synthetic non friction modifier gear oil. They specifically state that synthetic oil and/or friction modifier will cause a decrease in true Trac performance.

Synthetic oil is a better oil generally but It is NOT better in a True Trac.

This should cost you between $1000 and $1500 in parts and labor depending on if your installer can reuse bearings and other parts. My transit had 15,000 miles on it when mine was done and they were able and comfortable to reuse the bearings. I would have no problems paying the extra if they felt they needed to use new ones (I even told them that)

Good luck
[/QUOTEaston
Like the other posters have said, you have the Ford 9.75 rear axle. It is common and had been in many Ford vehicles including most variants of the f150 for the last 20 years. The rear end shop will be familiar with them.

Also like the other posters have said, dealerships don't usually do much rear end work and they don't usually install aftermarket rear end differentials. Your local rear end/drive line/off road shop will have way more experience installing this than a dealership would.

I noticed that you may be unsure whether to go with the true Trac or the factory Ford limited slip. The true Trac is the way to go. No clutch packs to wear out and smooth lockup. Perfect for on road snow traction and light off roading and beach sand. Should last longer than your vehicle with regular gear oil changes.

Make sure your installer does not use synthetic gear oil and does not use friction modifier. True Trac specifically calls for gl5 non synthetic non friction modifier gear oil. They specifically state that synthetic oil and/or friction modifier will cause a decrease in true Trac performance.

Synthetic oil is a better oil generally but It is NOT better in a True Trac.

This should cost you between $1000 and $1500 in parts and labor depending on if your installer can reuse bearings and other parts. My transit had 15,000 miles on it when mine was done and they were able and comfortable to reuse the bearings. I would have no problems paying the extra if they felt they needed to use new ones (I even told them that)

Good luck
We would like to have a True Trac installed on our 2019 T350 Transit with 11,000mi. We were told by a differential shop that they would not do it because it would void our warranty. They suggested having Ford do it which we do not want to do. Whats your thought on the warranty issue?
 
#19 ·
I did a whole bunch of reading on various forums about the correct oil to use in your differential with a true trac

What Eaton recommends:
  • Non Synthetic GL5 without friction modifier

They specifically state that friction modifier will change the rate of lockup and decrease performance. Many users believe that synthetic is okay, but its really hard to find synthetics without friction modifier.

It is not easy to find gear oil without friction modifier. Some state on the bottle that it contains friction modifier. That's easy to rule out. Many do not state that they have friction modifier but actually have friction modifier in them or are engineered to work like they have friction modifier in them. Many users have searched and said they found a bottle that doesn't have friction modifier in them, later to discover that the formulation actually has friction modifier in them or engineered to work like they have friction modifier in them.

If you call Eatons performance helpline, they recommend the Torco RGO (Racing Gear Oil) its non-synthetic GL5 without friction modifier. Its $12.95/liter and our Transit differentials take almost 3 liters of fluid.
http://www.torcousa.com/torco_product/rgo.html

Motorcraft recommends 75w85 synthetic gear oil in the stock rear axles for the Transit. 75w85 is thinner oil, but they use synthetic and thinner oil for fuel mileage and "lifetime" changes.

I will probably move up to 85W-140 on my next change which should provide better gear protection at the cost of potentially slightly less fuel mileage.

Hopefully the truetrac community can find a good synthetic that provides good gear protection/less drag and good true trac lockup performance (Bias ratio) than the dino GL5 that Eaton recommends.

It is also interesting to note that some users have posted that they use quality full synthetics and say that the true trac works just fine.

Maybe the performance degredation from using synthetics is not that big of a deal in the real world.

I am planning on using Torco RGO and doing 25k mile changes until something better comes along. I keep my vehicles a long time (10+ years/200K miles+)
 
#20 ·
I think that the synthetic works fine in the Transit because it has traction control and will brake a wheel that is spinning thereby giving the True Trac the amount of friction it needs for spool lockup.

I would love to switch to this system but am wondering if anyone knows how it would affect the speedo and computer if at all, when I switch from 3.31 to 3.73.

I also wonder if mileage would be better or worse because it seems like the engine is always at boost especially in 6th gear.
 
#56 ·
I would love to switch to this system but am wondering if anyone knows how it would affect the speedo and computer if at all, when I switch from 3.31 to 3.73.
Your speedo will read higher than your actual speed. Your vehicle will reach its speed limiter at a slower actual speed which can be a problem in some driving situations, especially with speed limited fleet vehicles. You don't touch the computer swapping out gears, but the traction control system will think you are going faster on the speedo than you actually are. So the computer may engage traction control prematurely, especially around banking turns. Depends how and where you drive, we have a lot of curves and hills.
 
#23 ·
Man, I am so glad I found this forum! One of the main things I wished my van came with was the LSD, and now I found that I can get one even better than the factory, albeit at a premium. Is this something I can do in stages, for budget reasons? I want to start with a simpler 3.31 to 3.73 swap, keeping the stock non-LSD for now. Then I can do the LSD later. Or do the parts not interchange? In that case, I might be better off just waiting until I can do it all at once, and not waste parts.
 
#24 · (Edited)
You can do it in two stages, but you will be paying for labor twice since its almost the same amount of work for each individual thing you want.

its a little more labor for the gear install, since they have to pull/switch out the pinion gear and potentially shims/bearing/seal.

If you could do it all at once you will share most of the labor cost.
 
#28 ·
Look for driveline/drivetrain/rear end/axle specialty shops in your area.

You can also find a 4x4 jeep/off road type shop or a racecar/performance shop and ask them who they recommend for driveline/gear/differential work.

You absolutely don't want this done at a dealership or 90%+ of general automotive repair shops.

this will get you started down the path of finding a good install shop:

https://www.google.com/maps/search/rear+end+driveline+axle/@33.0251524,-116.8814057,9.75z/data=!4m2!2m1!6e6
 
#32 · (Edited)
LSD swap - Ford dealership can't help with parts

Wait, wha?~* :|
So does Ford pop out a sheet on that stuff that I can show my dealership?
Because check out this pic of the door sticker! (in my forum garage pics)
The dealership I just bought it from is telling me the axle is a 3.73 ratio! I suppose a 3.31 would be better on gas so its probably a good thing right?
So am I understanding you right that my RATIO is 3.31 NOT 3.73?
Looks like I'll be ordering the 913A477! Woohooo!
.
One last question for all the Transit peeps out there that have done this:
Do I need to order new bearings and shims for this swap out?
.
Thanks for your time with helping me on this brother!!!
 
#33 ·
Wait, wha?~* :|
So does Ford pop out a sheet on that stuff that I can show my dealership?
Because check out this pic of the door sticker! (in my garage)
The dealership I just bought if from is telling me the axle is a 3.73 ratio! I suppose a 3.31 would be better on gas so its probably a good thing right?
So am I understanding you right that my RATIO is 3.31 NOT 3.73?
Looks like I'll be ordering the 913A477!
Yes you're ratio is 3.31.

It's published in the Trailer Tow Selector document from Ford.
 
#34 · (Edited)
Hey guys,
I have a 2017 Ford Transit 350 XLT, 148” wheel base, 3.5L eco, 3.31 axle ratio. I’m wanting to swap out the slip differential with the Eaton Truetrac 913A477. Has anyone made this swap? Do I need to buy bearings and shims? Or are no additional parts needed?
(I’ve found a pro tranny tech here that is willing to take this on. He said I can bring in the parts and he’ll install. Ford dealership couldn’t even tell me axle info even when looking at their diagrams!)
 
#37 ·
Thanks KC! Our van only has 19k miles on it so it sounds like we could keep the bearings that are in there. I was concerned about them fitting on the Truetrac but it sounds like the Truetrac will work with the stock bearings? And shims....no one so far can tell me if they’re even needed with this swap. If they MIGHT be needed, what kit would I need to go with? Is the shim kit ordered based on an axle size or the Truetrac part or what? Where do these specialty shops first learn these things?
Thanks for your time!! ?
 
#38 · (Edited)
Take a look at this diagram:
http://www.differentials.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Differential-and-Axle-Exploded-View-Diagrams.pdf


in the top diagram upper right hand corner you can see these parts: Race, Carrier Bearing, Shims, differential, shims, carrier bearing, race (ignore the ring gear and ring gear bolts)

the differential is the Eaton true trac or your stock unit. They will pull your stock differential out and replace with the true trac differential. the shims on each side space the differential to the bearing and more importantly make sure that your ring gear (which is bolted to the differential) is located side-to-side in the exact spot to mesh correctly with the pinion gear.

when the installer puts the new differential in, they have to check/measure precisely that alignment of the gears and if its not acceptable, they may have to add/remove/change some of those shims(very thin spacers) to achieve and acceptable spacing/mesh of the ring gear/differential side-to-side in order to mesh with the pinion gear correctly.

Those bearings next to the shims are the bearings they would replace if they need to replace them for some reason.

Call your shop and ask if you need the shim/bearing kits. Also I would call the off road shop as well, they may have more experience in installing differentials than the transmission shop as its a very popular mod in the off road world and its the same skill as installing in your van or in a off road truck. The off road shop will mostly already be familiar with the truetrac unit as well and has already probably installed some.

You are really looking for the person that has the most experience installing differentials in your area.
 
#39 ·
SOLVED! Wooohooo!!!

Eaton passed me to Spencer Fluid Power which passed me to West Coast Differential. Talked to Rusty (Eight00-510-0nine50) who definitely knew what he was talking about with the Ford Transit! Yes! So great to talk to someone who knows their stuff with the Transit differential!
Ok, here's the scoop:
(for the Transit 350, 9.75" axle, 3.31 ratio to swap to the limited slip Eaton TrueTrac 913A477)
Rusty said its an easy swap.
He confirmed the 913A477 is the way to go.
He said you should have spare bearings, race, and shim kit ready just in case anything is damaged during the swap (even if you have low miles).
When you pop in the Truetrac use the factory shims as your base.
You MIGHT have to use a few shims from the kit.
The shims are easy to install - they're installed outboard of the races.
Shim kit part number: SS9.75F
(I went with the Yukon SK SSF9.75 because it was on Amazon ($50))
Backup bearing kit: (standard 9.75 Ford axle) Timken NP343847 ($34)
Race kit: (standard 9.75 Ford axle) Timken NP372019 ($16)
Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lube LS 75W-90, 2.6L needed
.
I'll let you guys know how the install goes once I have it done! Thanks again everyone for your input! It will be good to know that we won't be getting stuck in the snow as easily with this Truetrac in our ride! ;)
 
#41 ·
More parts needed - I'll update when all is said and done

Eaton passed me to Spencer Fluid Power which passed me to West Coast Differential. Talked to Rusty (Eight00-510-0nine50) who definitely knew what he was talking about with the Ford Transit! Yes! So great to talk to someone who knows their stuff with the Transit differential!
Ok, here's the scoop:
(for the Transit 350, 9.75" axle, 3.31 ratio to swap to the limited slip Eaton TrueTrac 913A477)
Rusty said its an easy swap.
He confirmed the 913A477 is the way to go.
He said you should have spare bearings, race, and shim kit ready just in case anything is damaged during the swap (even if you have low miles).
When you pop in the Truetrac use the factory shims as your base.
You MIGHT have to use a few shims from the kit.
The shims are easy to install - they're installed outboard of the races.
Shim kit part number: SS9.75F
(I went with the Yukon SK SSF9.75 because it was on Amazon ($50))
Backup bearing kit: (standard 9.75 Ford axle) Timken NP343847 ($34)
Race kit: (standard 9.75 Ford axle) Timken NP372019 ($16)
Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lube LS 75W-90, 2.6L needed
.
I'll let you guys know how the install goes once I have it done! Thanks again everyone for your input! It will be good to know that we won't be getting stuck in the snow as easily with this Truetrac in our ride! ;)
.
.......So a few surprises that came up while having a professional auto shop work on this:
New ring gear bolts and shaft bolts are mandatory for this job per Ford! If you bring these bolts in to the shop you won't have to pay the 180% shop price increase!
10 shaft bolts (5 per shaft), part W716084 S439 @ $3.50 a piece
12 ring gear bolts, part F75Z 4216 AA @ $3.85 a piece
Differential gasket, part HL3Z 4036 A, $21
Sway bar bolts, part W500633 S442 @ $2.50 a piece
.
Could have saved $100 if I had known this before taking it all in. But hey, they have to make a living right? :)
Again, I'll lay this all out with parts, prices and total costs when i pick up the van tomorrow. Probably looking around $1500 p/l :crying:
 
#42 ·
Complete Truetrac swap outline

Hey guys. As promised here’s the final breakdown for having a shop install a Truetrac in a 2017 Transit 350 XLT with a 3.31 axle (9.75”L with 34 spline):
(You can talk to Rusty at West Coast Differential on any questions you have, Eight00-510-0nine50)
Quick swap steps info:
Have spare bearings, races, and the shim kit ready just in case anything is damaged during the swap (even if you have low miles). Most professional shops will not reuse the old ones for liability.
When you pop in the Truetrac, use the factory shims as your base.
You MIGHT have to use a few shims from the kit.
The shims are easy to install - they're installed outboard of the races.
PARTS:
Eaton Trutrac, part 913A477, $640 (incld tax)
Shim kit: Yukon SK SSF9.75, $50
Bearing: (standard 9.75 Ford axle) Timken NP343847 ($34 x 2)
Race: (standard 9.75 Ford axle) Timken NP372019 ($16 x 2)
MasterPro GL5 Synthetic Gear Lube 75W-90, 2.9L needed ($12 x 3)
New ring gear bolts and shaft bolts are mandatory for this job per Ford dealership! If you bring these bolts in to your shop you won't have to pay the 180% price increase when they order them for you!
Shaft bolts (5 per shaft), Ford part W716084 S439 @ $3.50 x 10
Ring gear bolts, Ford part F75Z 4216 AA @ $3.85 x 12
Differential gasket, Ford part HL3Z 4036 A, $21
Sway bar bolts, Ford part W500633 S442 @ $2.50 a piece
Labor $900 (~8 hours)
Total: $2020! Aiy! :|
(people, have a limited slip put in when you buy it new in the factory!!! = $385!) :eek:
Drivability: no noises, whistles, or whining. Sounds great and I feel no change in handling. Cornering is totally fine.
I’ll update after a couple years in the snow. Thanks everyone and hope this helps! :D
 
#79 ·
Complete Truetrac swap outline

Hey guys. As promised here’s the final breakdown for having a shop install a Truetrac in a 2017 Transit 350 XLT with a 3.31 axle (9.75”L with 34 spline):
(You can talk to Rusty at West Coast Differential on any questions you have, Eight00-510-0nine50)
Quick swap steps info:
Have spare bearings, races, and the shim kit ready just in case anything is damaged during the swap (even if you have low miles). Most professional shops will not reuse the old ones for liability.
When you pop in the Truetrac, use the factory shims as your base.
You MIGHT have to use a few shims from the kit.
The shims are easy to install - they're installed outboard of the races.
PARTS:
Eaton Trutrac, part 913A477, $640 (incld tax)
Shim kit: Yukon SK SSF9.75, $50
Bearing: (standard 9.75 Ford axle) Timken NP343847 ($34 x 2)
Race: (standard 9.75 Ford axle) Timken NP372019 ($16 x 2)
MasterPro GL5 Synthetic Gear Lube 75W-90, 2.9L needed ($12 x 3)
New ring gear bolts and shaft bolts are mandatory for this job per Ford dealership! If you bring these bolts in to your shop you won't have to pay the 180% price increase when they order them for you!
Shaft bolts (5 per shaft), Ford part W716084 S439 @ $3.50 x 10
Ring gear bolts, Ford part F75Z 4216 AA @ $3.85 x 12
Differential gasket, Ford part HL3Z 4036 A, $21
Sway bar bolts, Ford part W500633 S442 @ $2.50 a piece
Labor $900 (~8 hours)
Total: $2020! Aiy! :|
(people, have a limited slip put in when you buy it new in the factory!!! = $385!) :eek:
Drivability: no noises, whistles, or whining. Sounds great and I feel no change in handling. Cornering is totally fine.
I’ll update after a couple years in the snow. Thanks everyone and hope this helps! :D
We would like to have a Trutrac installed on our 2019 Transit T350 with 11,000 mi. We were told by a differential shop that they wouldn't do it because it would void the warranty. Do you know anything about this having added one yourself. Also, have you been pleased with it? Any issues?
 
#43 ·
Thanks Benny. Only question I come up with is the new fluid. If this is the Torsten Ltd slip, I didn’t think it needed (or wanted) a fluid with friction modifiers. What I read (a year ago, so off the top of my head) was that Eaton recommended Dino oil, not synthetic (and again, without modifiers). Personally, I don’t get the Dino vs synthetic thing, but that is what it said (a year ago....maybe they’ve updated their recommendations since then).


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
#44 ·
Masterpro GL5 75W-90 synthetic gear oil



You bet Imp,
This snip below is from Eaton's Truetrac pdf found on their website (www.eaton.com/Eaton/ProductsServices/Vehicle/Differentials/detroit-truetrac/#tabs-2). Go to "Vehicle Applications" and then select the highlighted text "Full application guide" at the bottom:

PDF Page 19:
"A quality petroleum GL5 rated (mineral) based oil is recommended. Synthetic oils may also be used if desired per axle manufacturer’s
recommendations. Friction modifiers should not be used however, as they will decrease overall performance (reduce differential bias)."

MasterPro's 75W-90 is recommended for the Transit 350 XLT diff. So since the GL5 met Eaton's specs and the 75W-90 met Ford's specs, I figured it was a win-win. ;)
MasterPro's 75W-90 does not come with additives (Friction Mods).
(Again, I had the Truetrac installed, not the Torsten)
 
#45 ·
I must have misread. I thought you said Mobil1 75w90 LS. I think that part in the Eaton blurb where it allows synthetic if the original manufacturer specifies it is new. But that’s probably a good thing. I was grappling with this a few years ago (previous van, or maybe in my Subaru, or maybe both) and remember it was hard to find the right stuff without the friction modifiers. I think I had to resort to Amsoil in one, and Motul in the other. But neither were Eaton Trutrac, so...well, so, forget all that. MasterPro, eh?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
#52 ·
Found out my van was always a 3.31



Hi Joe,
I was initially told by the dealership that my new van was a 3.73. Once I saw the stamp in the door, that it was actually a 3.31, I updated my posts accordingly. Later I found out that most of the 3.5L Ecoboosts come with 3.31 because they can handle the ratio (they have more torque and it saves gas money). Take care.
 
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