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No setting that I can find so far. I enabled DRL on both of ours so we get the fault every time we put one in gear. It only stays on about 10 seconds, but I would love a solution,
What size resistors did you use? I would suggest 6 ohm, 50 watt resistors to simliate our H11 low beam bulbs.So far that hasn't done the trick on either of mine, nor has trying Can bus compatible LEDs with them built in.
Yes, that is what I used, the same ones work great on the front LED turn signals.What size resistors did you use? I would suggest 6 ohm, 50 watt resistors to simliate our H11 low beam bulbs.
Doesn't need to be inside the LED headlamp. With today's technology, I'm sure its possible.
Considered street legal by who? Certainly not the DOT. An LED can never provide the proper output when used with a reflector designed for an incandescent bulb. Are you trying to make the lights annoyingly bright in well lit areas, or are you looking for better lighting when it is dark an no one else is around? If the latter, then a decent set of auxiliary lights wired through a relay to the high beam signal lets you see amazingly well in the dark without blinding oncoming drivers in well lit areas with poorly aimed and focused aftermarket lights on low beam.I chose this particular LED because they are considered street legal output.
Didn't think it would be so fussy on these vans. I know German cars don't like LED bulbs unless they are CAN BUS safe.When I say headlamp, I mean the LED "bulb" itself. That's what you were asking. Why can't the LED bulb simulate the incandescent bulb.
The LED "bulb" cannot use the amount of energy (watts) as the OEM bulb does. To copy that energy usage would and does require a 6 ohm load capable of dissipating 50 watts of power.
So your statement with today's technology it is possible. Just as I described.