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Low Beam Bulb Fault with LED H11 from Diode Dynamics

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Has anyone discovered a setting that can be changed in the Body Control Module using ForScan to eliminate the Low Beam Fault error when the OEM Halogen headlights are exchanged for SL1 H11 LED lights from Diode Dynamics? I tried them with and without the anti-flicker module but cannot get the error to stop appearing at initial startup. I chose this particular LED because they are considered street legal output. 2018 Ford Transit 150 XLT. Any advice would be appreciated.
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No setting that I can find so far. I enabled DRL on both of ours so we get the fault every time we put one in gear. It only stays on about 10 seconds, but I would love a solution,
 

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Adding resistors will clear the fault at power-up.
So far that hasn't done the trick on either of mine, nor has trying Can bus compatible LEDs with them built in.
 

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So far that hasn't done the trick on either of mine, nor has trying Can bus compatible LEDs with them built in.
What size resistors did you use? I would suggest 6 ohm, 50 watt resistors to simliate our H11 low beam bulbs.

To be fair, I haven't tried them in my Transit but if you use the correct value resistor, the computer will not know the difference between it and an actual incandescent bulb.
 

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What size resistors did you use? I would suggest 6 ohm, 50 watt resistors to simliate our H11 low beam bulbs.
Yes, that is what I used, the same ones work great on the front LED turn signals.
I first hooked just one side up loosely and left the regular bulb in the other headlight and got no fault. Then I went ahead and properly mounted one on each side, put everything together, but then had the fault again. Unfortunately, that day I ran out of time to methodically go through it again. Someday soon I'll have time and motivation to troubleshoot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I just installed resistors to resolve the Low Beam Fault error. Tried 12-, 10-, 8-, and 6-ohm resistors. Single 12 and 10 made no difference to the fault, while with 8-ohm there was a momentary fault blink that immediately cleared up. I was not sure if there was a sight connection issue, or if it was that the resistor was cold, but in light of uncertainty, I felt most comfortable with a 6-ohm resistor on each side. I then tried (2) 12-ohm resistors on each side, the equivalent of 6, in an effort to reduce heat buildup. I also used 100 watt instead of 50 watt, hoping to reduce heat. Heat is still significant, but being attached to a metal surface it seems to be safe. With (2) 12-ohm resistors installed per side the fault has been resolved, and if the bulb on either side is unplugged, the fault returns which is the way it should function. Thanks for the suggestion.
 

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FWIW,

H11 50 Watt Led's with Lumens HID 4-ohm resistors worked well with mine, no faults. Resistors mounted in engine compartment not in headlight. Also have Switchback LED's & resistors for turn signals which now dbl as DRL's. No problem there either.

Good Luck

Semper Fi
 

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Doesn't need to be inside the LED headlamp. With today's technology, I'm sure its possible.

When I say headlamp, I mean the LED "bulb" itself. That's what you were asking. Why can't the LED bulb simulate the incandescent bulb.

The LED "bulb" cannot use the amount of energy (watts) as the OEM bulb does. To copy that energy usage would and does require a 6 ohm load capable of dissipating 50 watts of power.

So your statement with today's technology it is possible. Just as I described.
 

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I chose this particular LED because they are considered street legal output.
Considered street legal by who? Certainly not the DOT. An LED can never provide the proper output when used with a reflector designed for an incandescent bulb. Are you trying to make the lights annoyingly bright in well lit areas, or are you looking for better lighting when it is dark an no one else is around? If the latter, then a decent set of auxiliary lights wired through a relay to the high beam signal lets you see amazingly well in the dark without blinding oncoming drivers in well lit areas with poorly aimed and focused aftermarket lights on low beam.
 

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When I say headlamp, I mean the LED "bulb" itself. That's what you were asking. Why can't the LED bulb simulate the incandescent bulb.

The LED "bulb" cannot use the amount of energy (watts) as the OEM bulb does. To copy that energy usage would and does require a 6 ohm load capable of dissipating 50 watts of power.

So your statement with today's technology it is possible. Just as I described.
Didn't think it would be so fussy on these vans. I know German cars don't like LED bulbs unless they are CAN BUS safe.

One may have to just learn to live with the error message in spite of the better lighting.
 
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