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2021 Cargo T350 EL High roof AWD Ecoboost
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi!

I need to run a few hoses from the inside of my van to underneath it:
  • Two 1/2" PEX lines (for cold water in and hot water out to the under-mounted Isotemp heater)
  • Fresh water tank vent/overflow (this could go inside the van if I am careful to not overfill but I figured might as well have it go out...)
  • Fresh water drain
  • Refrigerant AC lines for the Undermount 12V Split System Air Conditioner for RV's AC I am going to purchase
Separately I need to run some electrical wires - for the AC, Isotemp, grey water tank heater, level sensor, etc...

The overall floor thickness is a bit more than 2" - 0.4" (I think) Minicell, 1" XPS, 3/4" plywood and the van's sheet metal itself. I'm wondering whats a good way to do this. Could be one hole or multiple. Seen people use this type of cable boot, but my understanding is this part gets mounted under the vehicle - so I am not sure what goes into the actual floor layers to protect the hoses and cables.

Thank you!
 

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In the rear corners there is already and opening, I'm running my water tank drain out it, no drilling required.
 

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I'd bore an oversize hole through all the layers other than the sheet metal. For that I'd use either a good rubber grommet or a gland-type strain relief of the type used for electrical cables. They are available in a wide range of diameters and in both metal and plastic. You could then fill the remaining hole with spray foam if you want. I'd stay away from bulkhead fittings that, while looking really cool, are expensive and a potential source of leaks.

For example:
McMaster-Carr

--Frank
 

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Drill oversize. Paint exposed metal. Add rubber grommet. Seal with a little great stuff foam. It's closed cell foam so it's waterproof.
 

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2021 Cargo T350 EL High roof AWD Ecoboost
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
In the rear corners there is already and opening, I'm running my water tank drain out it, no drilling required.
Interesting, any tips on how I can locate it?

I'd bore an oversize hole through all the layers other than the sheet metal. For that I'd use either a good rubber grommet or a gland-type strain relief of the type used for electrical cables. They are available in a wide range of diameters and in both metal and plastic. You could then fill the remaining hole with spray foam if you want. I'd stay away from bulkhead fittings that, while looking really cool, are expensive and a potential source of leaks.

For example:
McMaster-Carr

--Frank
This is a great idea, thank you!
 

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It is in both the back corners in the wall area, if you go under the van behind the bumper you will see a rectangle plug on each side, pop that out and you have access to pass through.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It is in both the back corners in the wall area, if you go under the van behind the bumper you will see a rectangle plug on each side, pop that out and you have access to pass through.
Oh yeah, I've seen those. I am not sure they would work for PEX and AC lines since they are not very flexible and it seems like there are some tight turns on the way into the van.
 

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Hi!

I need to run a few hoses from the inside of my van to underneath it:
  • Two 1/2" PEX lines (for cold water in and hot water out to the under-mounted Isotemp heater)
  • Fresh water tank vent/overflow (this could go inside the van if I am careful to not overfill but I figured might as well have it go out...)
  • Fresh water drain
  • Refrigerant AC lines for the Undermount 12V Split System Air Conditioner for RV's AC I am going to purchase
Separately I need to run some electrical wires - for the AC, Isotemp, grey water tank heater, level sensor, etc...

The overall floor thickness is a bit more than 2" - 0.4" (I think) Minicell, 1" XPS, 3/4" plywood and the van's sheet metal itself. I'm wondering whats a good way to do this. Could be one hole or multiple. Seen people use this type of cable boot, but my understanding is this part gets mounted under the vehicle - so I am not sure what goes into the actual floor layers to protect the hoses and cables.

Thank you!
We finally got around do doing our pass throughs. For everything but the heater we cut 1.5" holes through the van floor in the wall interstitials and then a corresponding 1.5" hole in the "skirt" under the van. Pretty painless. If you locate them on the driverside forward of the C-Pillar there are already pass throughs in the "skirt".
 

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2020 High-Extended AWD EcoBoost Cargo with windows
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Agreed with @tngw1500se. I'd also make the metal hole slightly larger than the hole through the floor. For example, 2" hole in floor, 2.5" hole in steel, standard rubber grommet around the 2.5" hole, one of those large grommet / tightening things from top of metal down.

Personally, I'd do the four water lines together and the AC lines separately - or two sets for the water lines if location suits it.

Also worth considering where the holes are located. I tucked a couple of holes for the external water tanks so they're in a location that doesn't seem to get hit by typical road spray. Even a crappy line of tape would probably keep them pretty safe.
 

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Maybe some of the floor vent idea's from this forum will work for your application, Here is one example.

 

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2021 R2X high roof long carbonized gray - TURBOCHARGED!
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No sure I agree - when installing my A/C inlet, I shoved my hand up there far enough to place the cable well into the D pillar where my wife could grab it, so it's plenty big and straight (too many innuendos in that sentence).

Below is a photo of the small 14gauge cable going into it - I'd recommend at least pulling the plastic cover off and seeing what's up there (photo perspective is from under the van with the back left corner of the van at about the center of the frame).

The cables/tubing could exit the van in a couple places - either in the D pillar behind the plastic cover or behind where the grounding points are.

Also, I bought an aftermarket plastic piece and drilled into that. Here's the part: -W716729-S300 - Genuine Ford Base No. #HP5 Plug

Hood Wood Shade Beam Automotive exterior



Oh yeah, I've seen those. I am not sure they would work for PEX and AC lines since they are not very flexible and it seems like there are some tight turns on the way into the van.
 

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Hi!

I need to run a few hoses from the inside of my van to underneath it:
  • Two 1/2" PEX lines (for cold water in and hot water out to the under-mounted Isotemp heater)
  • Fresh water tank vent/overflow (this could go inside the van if I am careful to not overfill but I figured might as well have it go out...)
  • Fresh water drain
  • Refrigerant AC lines for the Undermount 12V Split System Air Conditioner for RV's AC I am going to purchase
Separately I need to run some electrical wires - for the AC, Isotemp, grey water tank heater, level sensor, etc...

The overall floor thickness is a bit more than 2" - 0.4" (I think) Minicell, 1" XPS, 3/4" plywood and the van's sheet metal itself. I'm wondering whats a good way to do this. Could be one hole or multiple. Seen people use this type of cable boot, but my understanding is this part gets mounted under the vehicle - so I am not sure what goes into the actual floor layers to protect the hoses and cables.

Thank you!
For some lines like thick vinyl tubing for drains, I just drilled holes, dremmeled the edges smooth, painted, and ran the lines through.

To prevent having any fittings on the pex inside the van except the one at the sink cutoff valve, I drilled two holes (probably 3/4") and curved the pex line down and out. The pex line has carbon heat trace and is also wrapped in Tesa heat tape. More about that in this post and the following one.

Cheers.
 

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For the fresh water tank vacuum relief I installed a Eastman 60156 1/2" Vacuum Relief Valve which lets air in when the pump pulls water but is water tight. This means it does not need to be routed externally. I have a simple gravity water fill opening (See picture). When filling the water tank the opening acts as the pressure release so I do need to be careful not to fill the tank to fast of water can pour out the opening. (Don't ask how I know that :))
Water fill:
Wood Fixture Electrical wiring Gas Automotive exterior
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Very useful information, thank you everyone!
 

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At some point you are going to have to service the PEX or the AC or the Electrical.
So drilling a hole and caulking or gluing the hose/Wire is a bad idea.
I always use a bulkhead pass through.
Have a dedicated electrical hole(s).
Have a dedicated PEX hole(s).
Have a dedicated A/C hole(s).
Do not mix.
Do it the right difficult way now and you will thank yourself later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
At some point you are going to have to service the PEX or the AC or the Electrical.
So drilling a hole and caulking or gluing the hose/Wire is a bad idea.
I always use a bulkhead pass through.
Have a dedicated electrical hole(s).
Have a dedicated PEX hole(s).
Have a dedicated A/C hole(s).
Do not mix.
Do it the right difficult way now and you will thank yourself later.
Certainly planning on making it serviceable.
Do you have recommendations for bulkheads you used?
 
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