[DividedGuy]

Has anyone used this Lontape Flooring Adhesive Tape to install Lonseal vinyl flooring? I had ordered the 650 Epoxy Adhesive along with my flooring, but was just informed it is out of stock and they suggested the tape as an available alternative. I hadn't even considered the tape before, but it looks like it might not be a bad option. I think the main downside is that it's more expensive, but the "The main advantage to Lontape adhesive is the extended working time over Lonseal's epoxy, which allows the installer more time to be sure the flooring is laid securely and without bubbling." Plus, it's available, although I haven't checked to see if the epoxy is available elsewhere yet.

Anyway, just curious if anyone has used the tape and, if so, would you recommend it?

 

[Vanaroo]

Last time I looked, WEST System epoxy was approved by Lonseal. I always liked this option because WEST System specializes in epoxy - that's basically all they do. There are different hardeners so you can adjust the cure time a bit based on that (Fast hardener for colder weather; Slow for anything above 60ºF - or you can mix the two).

Caveat that I have not installed Lonseal (though it's on my list for a van), but I have used plenty of WEST epoxy for other things.

(I don't know anything about the tape, but I'd be looking really closely at their specs for how it would hold up in the typical extreme temp changes of a van.)

 

[ArgonautVans]

Best Adhesive For Sheet Vinyl Flooring

At the stage where I'm going to install my sheet vinyl over my Baltic Birch subfloor. Baltic Birch was painted with Zinsser mold killing paint. My sheet vinyl is not "felt backed", it's a vinyl/rubber/plasticky material on the backside. Faroutride used a pressure sensitive vinyl flooring...

www.fordtransitusaforum.com

Read post 16. I’m happy with my choice to use west systems epoxy, it’s easier to mix in small batches, you want to use the slow hardener.

I would not use tape personally. Could lead to uneven surface and you’d have to use a ton of tape.

 

[kenryan]

I really like the idea of the tape. It would make installation so much easier. Would love to hear from folks who have used it, especially those whose vans reside in cold country.

 

[kdenning]

If you aren't in a huge hurry I'll be installing a Lonseal floor in a sprinter using the tape towards the middle of April. I've got the tape in now and waiting on the flooring but I'll be out of town when it arrives.

I'm no stranger to epoxy and other similar adhesives but the convenience of the tape wins for me. Additionally, my rep that I work with noted that the cure time for the tape is immediate compared to the 48 hour cure time of the epoxy if that's important to you and you believe that.

He also noted that any spot where there is not tape adhering the floor to the subfloor will be subject to fluctuations with temperature but that's no different than the epoxy (i.e. you'll need 100% coverage to avoid warping with temperature change).

We live and build in Tahoe where it's going to be 36 Wednesday night and 70 Thursday day so that's another reason that using the tape for installation makes more sense for my personal application!

 

[kenryan]

If you aren't in a huge hurry I'll be installing a Lonseal floor in a sprinter using the tape towards the middle of April...

...Additionally, my rep that I work with noted that the cure time for the tape is immediate...

For sure. I won't even have my vehicle until the end of May. FYI the below document says the tape takes 12 hours to cure.

https://lonseal.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/IG_Vehicle_032919.pdf

 

[Vanaroo]

One point from the TDS for the Lontape that might affect Transit installs is that it should be installed with the ambient temperature between 65ºF and 85ºF. That's a relatively narrow window. Might not be a problem..... or it might just depending on individual situation.

(The unused tape is also supposed to be stored between 65º and 85º.)

They aren't clear on how long the install temp needs to be maintained (that I could see) but do say it is fully cured in 72 hours. So unless they say otherwise I'd think the temp should stay in that 20º window for the cure time (if I were going to use the tape I'd check with them, but I would be using epoxy).

Lontape TDS:

https://lonseal.com/download/?dl=55

 

[ArgonautVans]

Epoxy had a narrow range of temps to apply too, too hot and it cures fast, too cold and it cures too slowly.

I’m still weary of tape for the entire floor. The whole idea of epoxy is to uniformly bond the sheet vinyl to the wood subfloor. That way the vinyl is limited in how much it expands and contracts by the (stronger) wood. This requires a really good, uniform bond. I’d be suspicious of how good the bond will be with the tape, particularly to the wood.

furthermore, the epoxy essentially fully seals the top layer of wood as a waterproof and mold proof layer. Tape not so much

 

[Vanaroo]

Epoxy had a narrow range of temps to apply too, too hot and it cures fast, too cold and it cures too slowly.

Perhaps the Lonseal 650 has a set range, but WEST System epoxy has a very wide range of temperatures it can be used in. It's used in boatyards all the time (cold/hot/cold-hot/rain/wind - we have it all!). If you are using the 105 resin, then you have a choice of hardeners. Fast hardener can be used down into the 40's. Slow can be used at temps above 60ºF and into the 90's. There is even an extra slow though I haven't used that one much.

There are "tricks of the trade" when using epoxy in hot weather:

1) Don't mix up a batch and then keep it in a deep cup or bucket. It "self heats" and kicks very quickly. Instead, spread it out right away. It will kick much slower then (in same temps). If a smaller batch, something like a lasagne pan works well. For a larger project, just dump it on the surface and spread it out roughly, then come back and spread it exactly how you want it. It kicks much slower spread out than in a typical bucket.

2) Keep the resin cool before mixing it. This is kind of "making your own weather" (within reason). Van is outside but you live in an air-conditioned house? Keep the epoxy inside until just before you use it.

3) Mix smaller batches. Have separate containers of resin and hardener (and any thickener) pre-measured and ready to go, then mix hardener and resin (then thickener) just when ready and you can keep a pretty steady job going whilst not letting the epoxy kick.

4) Some people even put the mixing cup in an ice bath, though I have not.

I have found that with a combination of #1 and #2 plus slow hardener, I can do even larger projects in hot weather (you can also mix smaller batches). Cold weather is much easier, just use fast hardener (though obviously the Lonseal itself probably doesn't want to be unrolled and installed in frigid weather).

Obviously 72ºF is the dream, but there are ways to mitigate warmer and cooler temps when using WEST epoxy.

WEST System has oodles of free publications and a great tech help line. Since boat work is often outside and in inclement weather of various types, they have seen it all.

Hardener Selection Guide

Hardener selection determines epoxy's open time, cure speed, and time available to mix, apply, smooth, shape, assemble, and clamp your epoxy projects.

www.westsystem.com

PS: 100% with you on the benefit of epoxy also sealing a plywood floor.

 

[Brandon2520]

If you aren't in a huge hurry I'll be installing a Lonseal floor in a sprinter using the tape towards the middle of April. I've got the tape in now and waiting on the flooring but I'll be out of town when it arrives.

I'm no stranger to epoxy and other similar adhesives but the convenience of the tape wins for me. Additionally, my rep that I work with noted that the cure time for the tape is immediate compared to the 48 hour cure time of the epoxy if that's important to you and you believe that.

He also noted that any spot where there is not tape adhering the floor to the subfloor will be subject to fluctuations with temperature but that's no different than the epoxy (i.e. you'll need 100% coverage to avoid warping with temperature change).

We live and build in Tahoe where it's going to be 36 Wednesday night and 70 Thursday day so that's another reason that using the tape for installation makes more sense for my personal application!

I'd be interested in knowing how that turns out! I was planning to order Lonseal flooring soon (installing around the end of May) and was considering the tape route, mostly because tape is a wee bit more pleasurable to work with than epoxy.
I got some samples from them recently and settled on a specific design. Does anyone know if I need to order this stuff fairly early (risk of selling out?) just realized their website makes you submit an order request and doesn't really mention stock or pricing on site.

 

[JustAnotherUser]

Interesting. I'd initially written it off but it looks like it actually could work well in the general temp ranges our vans are exposed to:
Microsoft Word - TDS_Lontape_120621 (lonseal.com)

That said, I'm pretty familiar with West Systems epoxy so I'd likely just stick with that. Also like the fact that you'll get uniform, full surface coverage vs what you'd get from tape.

 

[Sams stock van]

Perhaps the Lonseal 650 has a set range, but WEST System epoxy has a very wide range of temperatures it can be used in. It's used in boatyards all the time (cold/hot/cold-hot/rain/wind - we have it all!). If you are using the 105 resin, then you have a choice of hardeners. Fast hardener can be used down into the 40's. Slow can be used at temps above 60ºF and into the 90's. There is even an extra slow though I haven't used that one much.

There are "tricks of the trade" when using epoxy in hot weather:

1) Don't mix up a batch and then keep it in a deep cup or bucket. It "self heats" and kicks very quickly. Instead, spread it out right away. It will kick much slower then (in same temps). If a smaller batch, something like a lasagne pan works well. For a larger project, just dump it on the surface and spread it out roughly, then come back and spread it exactly how you want it. It kicks much slower spread out than in a typical bucket.

2) Keep the resin cool before mixing it. This is kind of "making your own weather" (within reason). Van is outside but you live in an air-conditioned house? Keep the epoxy inside until just before you use it.

3) Mix smaller batches. Have separate containers of resin and hardener (and any thickener) pre-measured and ready to go, then mix hardener and resin (then thickener) just when ready and you can keep a pretty steady job going whilst not letting the epoxy kick.

4) Some people even put the mixing cup in an ice bath, though I have not.

I have found that with a combination of #1 and #2 plus slow hardener, I can do even larger projects in hot weather (you can also mix smaller batches). Cold weather is much easier, just use fast hardener (though obviously the Lonseal itself probably doesn't want to be unrolled and installed in frigid weather).

Obviously 72ºF is the dream, but there are ways to mitigate warmer and cooler temps when using WEST epoxy.

WEST System has oodles of free publications and a great tech help line. Since boat work is often outside and in inclement weather of various types, they have seen it all.

Hardener Selection Guide

Hardener selection determines epoxy's open time, cure speed, and time available to mix, apply, smooth, shape, assemble, and clamp your epoxy projects.

www.westsystem.com

PS: 100% with you on the benefit of epoxy also sealing a plywood floor.

Great writeup on West Systems epoxy. I've used it from 40 to 90 degrees with no adverse effects.

The pump system to get a perfect mix ratio is great and the product has a shelf life of years. If the resin turns thick and white, or the pump gets plugged, just heat the resin by placing the container in hot water. Change out the water several times. Takes about 20 minutes for the crystals to disappear.

Once you have it in your shop, you'll find many more uses for the product. Then every single serve yogurt cup will get "recycled" for mixing epoxy.

 

[eddie24d]

Has anyone used this Lontape Flooring Adhesive Tape to install Lonseal vinyl flooring? I had ordered the 650 Epoxy Adhesive along with my flooring, but was just informed it is out of stock and they suggested the tape as an available alternative. I hadn't even considered the tape before, but it looks like it might not be a bad option. I think the main downside is that it's more expensive, but the "The main advantage to Lontape adhesive is the extended working time over Lonseal's epoxy, which allows the installer more time to be sure the flooring is laid securely and without bubbling." Plus, it's available, although I haven't checked to see if the epoxy is available elsewhere yet.

Anyway, just curious if anyone has used the tape and, if so, would you recommend it?

Use the double sided Red Tape. Trust me I followed the instructions with the epoxy and it cured way to fast and created a nightmare. Guess it has been a complaint with a handful of customers. Just make sure you cover all areas with the tape. So far a year in and it’s been great. Best of luck !

 

[Vanaroo]

Once you have it in your shop, you'll find many more uses for the product. Then every single serve yogurt cup will get "recycled" for mixing epoxy.

Isn't that the truth! It goes a step further when a friend gets a new Blue Sea battery switch (or just about anything else these days) and you are all "excuse me, but are you going to throw away that blister pack - I can use that for mixing epoxy"

 

[JustAnotherUser]

Use the double sided Red Tape. Trust me I followed the instructions with the epoxy and it cured way to fast and created a nightmare. Guess it has been a complaint with a handful of customers. Just make sure you cover all areas with the tape. So far a year in and it’s been great. Best of luck !

I'd wager that the lonseal epoxy is geared more to the professional floor installer who can quickly paddle mix the bucket, throw the contents down, and trowel it out. You can get a bit more working time in cold temps but if you've not used epoxy or laid flooring/tile before it might not be for you. That said, if you go with something like West Systems you have a bit more option as you can dictate the size of the pour (large quantities can kick quicker) and choose a slower acting hardener to allow longer working times. And once you have epoxy on hand, you'll find it invaluable for various build purposes.

 

[Ranger Robin]

Found this as I have a roll of Lonseal ready to install, haven't purchased adhesive yet. Nice thread thanks for the tips.

https://lonseal.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/TB_West_System_Epoxy_032520.pdf

 

[Sams stock van]

Found this as I have a roll of Lonseal ready to install, haven't purchased adhesive yet. Nice thread thanks for the tips.

https://lonseal.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/TB_West_System_Epoxy_032520.pdf

If you want to start a new thread on using epoxy, I've done a few "large area" projects and would add 2 cents if needed. Prep is key.

 

[kenryan]

Use the double sided Red Tape. Trust me I followed the instructions with the epoxy and it cured way to fast and created a nightmare. Guess it has been a complaint with a handful of customers. Just make sure you cover all areas with the tape. So far a year in and it’s been great. Best of luck !

@eddie24d what is the coldest temperature that your floor has been subjected to?

 

[bradoemba]

The 2Tec2 on my SmartFloor is held down by a 3M tape. Been in there for over a year with zero issues. Granted, the track on the floor holds the 2Tec2 down also, but even on the slider step where I haven't made a nice trim piece it's all holding together great. (Meaning the carpet edge is exposed to feet dragging in and out every day.) No fumes, no mixing, no mess.

 

[DividedGuy]

Thanks everyone! I was all set to order the West System epoxy, but changed my mind at the last minute and just ordered the tape. My thinking was the epoxy seems to be better overall if applied correctly, but is also easier to screw up and the tape would just be easier to work with, so I went with the easier solution.