You might want to use the search bar. There are a lot of examples posted. Search will also get you examples from folks that many no longer be very active on the forums.
Lets see those 80/20 roof rack builds!
Can anyone share pics of their 80/20 roof rack builds? preferably on a HR EXT.......looking for ideas on how to layout, fitment, length, overhang on front and rear brackets, front wind shroud (is that what they're called?) etc.......thanks for the pics!
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Check out the links Eranrund posted a few comments down in this thread I recently created about exact roof rack mounting point locations/dimensions. I have largely copied his build, but for a 148 HR long (not extended) and with inside corner gussets on the cross rails instead of a second inner row of 1515 and 4 hole corner plates like he used to deal with an interference issue between the DIYVan mounting brackets and the REC Alpha panels we both independently concluded were the best option. He just beat me to it!Can anyone share pics of their 80/20 roof rack builds? preferably on a HR EXT.......looking for ideas on how to layout, fitment, length, overhang on front and rear brackets, front wind shroud (is that what they're called?) etc.......thanks for the pics!
I probably should have made my own brackets and used aluminum square tubing for the frame or my initial idea of just using powder coated steel unistruts from Home Depot. I would have saved a bundle, but I'm exhausted from the endless build and the DIYVan + 1515-LS rack solution will go much faster, be much lighter/stronger, and is visually appealing. I think I'm about $980 in cost so far on the rack and mounting (another $1.2k on the Alphas). I have everything I need except a bunch of stainless carriage bolts and I already have a ton of nylocs, so probably ~$1k for the whole rack getup. For EL, I'd estimate $1.2K. I bet I could have made a comparably strong rack, a bit heavier with unistrut and custom brackets for $350, and a lot of time and effort.
But this lets me get back on the road sooner, and 1515 makes it very easy to add things like pull rings at all four corners of the rack so I can easily carbineer on a tarp shade canopy to the front, back, or either side of the van. Plus custom lighting if I decided I need it (see Eran's setup), or whatever else I want to attach to the sides and front of the 1515.
Cheers.
For sure, search. Here's the thread I did on our self-build rack: Roof rack mounts - for 8020 rack / solar / whatever | Ford Transit USA Forum
Finished:
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Finished:
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For sure, search. Here's the thread I did on our self-build rack: Roof rack mounts - for 8020 rack / solar / whatever | Ford Transit USA Forum
Finished:
View attachment 166253
looks fantastic! and very helpful post thanks. Could you describe a bit about how you did the 6th support a the very rearmost position?For sure, search. Here's the thread I did on our self-build rack: Roof rack mounts - for 8020 rack / solar / whatever | Ford Transit USA Forum
Finished:
View attachment 166253
Yes, it all adds up.Check out the links Eranrund posted a few comments down in this thread I recently created about exact roof rack mounting point locations/dimensions. I have largely copied his build, but for a 148 HR long (not extended) and with inside corner gussets on the cross rails instead of a second inner row of 1515 and 4 hole corner plates like he used to deal with an interference issue between the DIYVan mounting brackets and the REC Alpha panels we both independently concluded were the best option. He just beat me to it!
I probably should have made my own brackets and used aluminum square tubing for the frame or my initial idea of just using powder coated steel unistruts from Home Depot. I would have saved a bundle, but I'm exhausted from the endless build and the DIYVan + 1515-LS rack solution will go much faster, be much lighter/stronger, and is visually appealing. I think I'm about $980 in cost so far on the rack and mounting (another $1.2k on the Alphas). I have everything I need except a bunch of stainless carriage bolts and I already have a ton of nylocs, so probably ~$1k for the whole rack getup. For EL, I'd estimate $1.2K. I bet I could have made a comparably strong rack, a bit heavier with unistrut and custom brackets for $350, and a lot of time and effort.
But this lets me get back on the road sooner, and 1515 makes it very easy to add things like pull rings at all four corners of the rack so I can easily carbineer on a tarp shade canopy to the front, back, or either side of the van. Plus custom lighting if I decided I need it (see Eran's setup), or whatever else I want to attach to the sides and front of the 1515.
Cheers.
If you use 8020 type parts / T nuts throughout, but purchase the SS bolts and washers on line, the last setup that I did was pushing $1500 - 1600 in parts alone. ( Using a different / easier to assemble mount ) I still like the approach though as it saves a lot of time.
Or keep it simple and install a single high voltage panel without a rack. Cost less than $100 for the four formed 12 ga. SS feet.
Use the existing mounting holes in the panel. Does require thinking inside the box because wood roof stiffeners need to be installed between the roof ribs because mounting bolts are located too far from the rib locations. My panel is 300 watts but today I would install about a 375 watt panel. No wind noise without a wind deflector. Much less weight and installation time.
Solar System | Orton Travel Transit (ortontransit.info)
This install is on a 148: wheelbase not extended.
Use the existing mounting holes in the panel. Does require thinking inside the box because wood roof stiffeners need to be installed between the roof ribs because mounting bolts are located too far from the rib locations. My panel is 300 watts but today I would install about a 375 watt panel. No wind noise without a wind deflector. Much less weight and installation time.
Solar System | Orton Travel Transit (ortontransit.info)
This install is on a 148: wheelbase not extended.
Rear-most is simply sandwiched with HDPE top and bottom and washers to create tension. And lots of goo to make sure it doesn't leak. Basically, it's just there to keep the extensions from flopping around much. Those extensions are there because we're going to mount lights to the back eventually.looks fantastic! and very helpful post thanks. Could you describe a bit about how you did the 6th support a the very rearmost position?
And I agree with @orton - don't build a rack just to have a rack. If you can get away without one, I'd give that a shot.
Our total cost was a fraction of what @harryn estimates. IIRC, it came in closer to $300-400 with everything for the base rack (rails up both sides, three cross-bars, HPDE plastic mounts, angle-aluminum brackets, bolts and such). But it was a lot of work. If I did it again and Hein's mounts were available (they weren't at the time), I'd sure be tempted to give him the $400 or whatever for the brackets ready-to-go.
Yeah - everyone thinks that it cost $ 3 - 400 in parts until you really add up not just the mounting to the van but also the mounting to the panels.
I am 100% certain that using the 1515 rail approach is how I would do the next van - it is just so flexible and the one part of van building that is certain is that change over time will happen.
I am 100% certain that using the 1515 rail approach is how I would do the next van - it is just so flexible and the one part of van building that is certain is that change over time will happen.
I suspect the life of the panel will exceed my life. At 83 my need for a longer lasting solar panel is questionable. The 300 watt panel has been installed for 5 years so far. I am sure it will not be difficult to install a different size panel using the four roof holes I drilled. I could just add two lengths of 80/20 to the existing formed mounting angles to accommodate a different sized panel.Yeah - everyone thinks that it cost $ 3 - 400 in parts until you really add up not just the mounting to the van but also the mounting to the panels.
I am 100% certain that using the 1515 rail approach is how I would do the next van - it is just so flexible and the one part of van building that is certain is that change over time will happen.
Not an estimate on my part. I did the math on the receipts for the 30mm extrusions as well as connectors and bolts and all. Angle aluminum is cheap and so is an HDPE cutting board. But that's with me getting paid a big zero for many hours of making those mount brackets - let alone testing 2-3 different ways to do it. So... $1000 would be a bargain.Yeah - everyone thinks that it cost $ 3 - 400 in parts until you really add up not just the mounting to the van but also the mounting to the panels.
I am 100% certain that using the 1515 rail approach is how I would do the next van - it is just so flexible and the one part of van building that is certain is that change over time will happen.
thanks for the detail! def want a rack for other things besides solar so I figure spent 1000 on a custom 80/20 is still better than a $4000 Aluminess or FVCoRear-most is simply sandwiched with HDPE top and bottom and washers to create tension. And lots of goo to make sure it doesn't leak. Basically, it's just there to keep the extensions from flopping around much. Those extensions are there because we're going to mount lights to the back eventually.
And I agree with @orton - don't build a rack just to have a rack. If you can get away without one, I'd give that a shot.
Our total cost was a fraction of what @harryn estimates. IIRC, it came in closer to $300-400 with everything for the base rack (rails up both sides, three cross-bars, HPDE plastic mounts, angle-aluminum brackets, bolts and such). But it was a lot of work. If I did it again and Hein's mounts were available (they weren't at the time), I'd sure be tempted to give him the $400 or whatever for the brackets ready-to-go.
wow that looks awesome and is exactly what im thinking for mine! you didn't use the 6th tower....any regrets? does the rear flex at all? Thanks!Here's another DIY 80/20 rack. This is using Hein's V2 roof rack towers. I had the 80/20 rails and cross members powder coated by a local powder coating place.
View attachment 166280
Flat Van Co side ladder works well with it.
View attachment 166281
FWIW, that's exactly how we did ours first. Didn't like the flex in the back. Definitely had the feeling we'd grab the bar at some point and put too much load on that diving-board setup. Didn't like it even after the extra mounts were put in, so we removed the cross-bar.wow that looks awesome and is exactly what im thinking for mine! you didn't use the 6th tower....any regrets? does the rear flex at all? Thanks!
In a HR extended, I built mine like Gregoryx. In fact I copied his almost exactly. Two weeks ago.
My cost was right at $600. used 1515 extrusions 5/16 stainless carriage bolts and made my own connectors.
All of my extrusions are 96” stock then connected or cut to size. Did not use any 80/20 connectors or bolts.
I did not use the rearmost mount points and I cantilevered the rear cross piece so than I can lean a ladder against it. Rear cross piece is right above that top rear light. ..I don’t want a mounted ladder, I’ve read stories about strangers climbing van ladders to see what’s up there. I’d end up up getting arrested if I caught some one on my ladder.
I did not use the sixth tower but I do have a cross piece behind the fifth tower.
This thing is solid as a rock. No flex even at the back and no wind whistle.
Thanks to Gregoryx for an excellent write up. Wanted a rack for an eventual awning and misc.
My cost was right at $600. used 1515 extrusions 5/16 stainless carriage bolts and made my own connectors.
All of my extrusions are 96” stock then connected or cut to size. Did not use any 80/20 connectors or bolts.
I did not use the rearmost mount points and I cantilevered the rear cross piece so than I can lean a ladder against it. Rear cross piece is right above that top rear light. ..I don’t want a mounted ladder, I’ve read stories about strangers climbing van ladders to see what’s up there. I’d end up up getting arrested if I caught some one on my ladder.
I did not use the sixth tower but I do have a cross piece behind the fifth tower.
This thing is solid as a rock. No flex even at the back and no wind whistle.
Thanks to Gregoryx for an excellent write up. Wanted a rack for an eventual awning and misc.
I was weighing getting the 6th tower, Hein said he would have it soon at the time I was assembling my rack. Once I had the rack up during my test assembly, the 6th tower did not seem necessary. There is no flex, but I would not stand on the rack behind the 5th tower. I've stood everywhere else with no flex. The roof rack was my scaffolding for installing the roof fans. The crossbars are positioned very close to the peak center of the van roof and they never touched with my weight on them.wow that looks awesome and is exactly what im thinking for mine! you didn't use the 6th tower....any regrets? does the rear flex at all? Thanks!
I tried making towers ala @gregoryx but I could not achieve the precision & consistency that I was happy with. This is what happens as my expectations often exceed my skills & patience.
I made all the connectors using the specs on the 80/20 page of @orton's website, a drill press helps with this tremendously. The nuts & bolts are also per Orton's spec and sourced from McMaster-Carr.
The leading and trailing crossbars are the 80/20 1517-LS profile, the rest are 1515-LS. I did splurge and get the full length rails of 1515-S.
Per @Gallaher comment about the side ladder, I had my Sprinter for 4 years and the Transit for almost 1 year and have seen no evidence of unwanted ladder climbers.
Appreciate all the positive reviews our our 8020 roof rail kits which are a more affordable and customizable system then full off-the-shelf racks.
Please be aware that we also offer a 6th tower option for the extended Transits. I am also working on a "0" tower. These two options are for adding towers outside the factory locations so a longer roof rail is supported much better. Racks will large overhangs towards back and front are not all that secure considering that the hardware attaching to roof is only 8mm (~5/16)
8020 racks are great but we also offer an even simpler system using angle rails. We just acquired a new 3 meter 135 ton CNC press brake and will be producing rail angles and other new brackets soon.
All the best
Hein
DIYvan
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Please be aware that we also offer a 6th tower option for the extended Transits. I am also working on a "0" tower. These two options are for adding towers outside the factory locations so a longer roof rail is supported much better. Racks will large overhangs towards back and front are not all that secure considering that the hardware attaching to roof is only 8mm (~5/16)
8020 racks are great but we also offer an even simpler system using angle rails. We just acquired a new 3 meter 135 ton CNC press brake and will be producing rail angles and other new brackets soon.
All the best
Hein
DIYvan
Here's a picture of mine and a link to my website with more info. The side rails are 12 feet in total.
DIY Van Roof Rack Extended — STOKE LOAF VAN
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DIY Van Roof Rack Extended — STOKE LOAF VAN
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