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I plan on using my cheap 3 ton Torin Blackjack jack stands + powerbuilt all-in-one.
My other unibody vehicle I can lift one side of the SUV at a time. With the Transit I'll have to do one corner with the jack, throw in a stand and repeat. With the 130" wheelbase a side at a time may be attainable.
How are you going to do that? There's only one lifting point per corner, that you would need for either the Jack or the stand. It's not like with a frame where you can lift a few inches to one side in order to place the stand. This has frustrated me already.
 

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How are you going to do that? There's only one lifting point per corner, that you would need for either the Jack or the stand. It's not like with a frame where you can lift a few inches to one side in order to place the stand. This has frustrated me already.
Haven't jacked mine up, yet, but I'd probably put the jack under the axle and then put the stand under the lifting point.

I bought a pair of 4000# ramps the other day.
 

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Haven't jacked mine up, yet, but I'd probably put the jack under the axle and then put the stand under the lifting point.

I bought a pair of 4000# ramps the other day.
Well, the rear axle is the lifting point, but, yeah, it's more doable at the rear, though I don't think you're really supposed to lift further inboard than the prescribed point. The front, though -- I don't see how a stand can be placed... 'cause you'd already be jacking the only available support point.
 

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How are you going to do that? There's only one lifting point per corner, that you would need for either the Jack or the stand. It's not like with a frame where you can lift a few inches to one side in order to place the stand. This has frustrated me already.
Completed my first rotation today, and checked the brake pads, etc. I was able to squeeze the jackstand and jack right next to each other just barely on the front side. I didn't have much luck getting the jackstand on the back unfortunately. In the end I had no real choice but to use the Ford supplied jack and the power built on opposite corners of the vehicle. Made for a super tedious rotation in the pattern prescribed in the owner's manual.
 

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I've rotated front to back, and side to side on the Transit. Not going to do corner to corner. I got a second jack from Harbor freight - 12 or 20 ton, can't recall... Not for the excess lift capacity, but for extended height. It takes a surprising amount of lift to get front tires off the ground. I don't really like having the van up on 2 jacks like this, with no safety blocks, but, that's what I've got.
 

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I just can't understand how there are only 4 prescribed jack points on something so big. I guess what easier way to force dealer servicing...I don't expect to raise one side from the middle, but there must be a spot for the whole front end for example.
 

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I have the worlds cheapest pneumatic jack I use on the rear. Half the price of the (same one) they sell at garbage freight. Got it on Amazon. For the rear it's as good as a jack stand because you can extend the shaft mechanically. I set it so the (large, confidence inspiring) lifting pad is almost touching the bottom of the axle. That way if the thing fails, which I fully anticipate will happen at some point, the van will only lower about an inch and I can get the wheel back on by simply letting the air out of the tire.

https://www.amazon.com/Ton-Hydrauli...qid=1475762645&sr=8-8&keywords=pneumatic+jack
 

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I just can't understand how there are only 4 prescribed jack points on something so big. I guess what easier way to force dealer servicing...I don't expect to raise one side from the middle, but there must be a spot for the whole front end for example.
Those might be points to lift with an overhead post lift. Even without illustrating the transmission crossmember.

Owner's manual shows jack points at rear axle, simple enough.

The front jacking points gets a little bit confusing. Their explanation makes me think it's a circular pad with a hole in the center at the rear of the front subframe. This flat area has a decreasing wall or up right around about half of it.
So I check with 3 dealerships and get three different answers.
Mechanic number one-- further forward on the front subframe.
Mechanic 2--at the three or four inch cylinder bar at the outer edge of transmission crossmember.
#3-- just in Board of that cylinder shaped bar on transmission crossmember.

Any ideas?

Suitcase
 

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Those might be points to lift with an overhead post lift. Even without illustrating the transmission crossmember.

Owner's manual shows jack points at rear axle, simple enough.

The front jacking points gets a little bit confusing. Their explanation makes me think it's a circular pad with a hole in the center at the rear of the front subframe. This flat area has a decreasing wall or up right around about half of it.
So I check with 3 dealerships and get three different answers.
Mechanic number one-- further forward on the front subframe.
Mechanic 2--at the three or four inch cylinder bar at the outer edge of transmission crossmember.
#3-- just in Board of that cylinder shaped bar on transmission crossmember.

Any ideas?

Suitcase
Yeah, you would not want to put a bottle jack under the pad-points in that diagram. The point load would be likely to cause deformation.

The prescribed front jack points in the manual are vague. I'm with Mechanic 2, though I would not call that a transmission crossmember, since it's behind the transmission. You can see that weight would transfer solidly, with no possibility of deformation. And, that's also right next to the tie-down points for vehicle transport.
 

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This is so F-ing retarded. Of course someone's gonna need to jack and then stand their van. How did they think folks were supposed to do this? As others have said, the back is easy, the front is impossible from what I can see.

So, I broke down and bought the Powerbuilt all-in-one. $39 through Amazon. I may replace the stock jack with this one since I don't want the van falling on me when I'm changing a tire. FYI, it doesn't have much extension, you might need to shim it with a block of wood, especially if you have oversized tires. It was at maximum extension with the stock tires and I couldn't lock it. Needed the shim to lock it with the stock tires.
 

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This is so F-ing retarded. Of course someone's gonna need to jack and then stand their van. How did they think folks were supposed to do this? As others have said, the back is easy, the front is impossible from what I can see.

So, I broke down and bought the Powerbuilt all-in-one. $39 through Amazon. I may replace the stock jack with this one since I don't want the van falling on me when I'm changing a tire. FYI, it doesn't have much extension, you might need to shim it with a block of wood, especially if you have oversized tires. It was at maximum extension with the stock tires and I couldn't lock it. Needed the shim to lock it with the stock tires.
I have the same one, but mine had a tendency for the piston to stick in place (which then means using another jack to relieve pressure and then force the piston down). After a few uses that issue seems to have gone away, but I still have to use another jack on my other vehicle to clear the Powerbuilt. Someone's suggestion of a 4x4 helped me use my 3.5ton jack pointed towards the rear of the vehicle and slip the stand in from the front, but it's way more difficult than it should be.
 

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I have the same one, but mine had a tendency for the piston to stick in place (which then means using another jack to relieve pressure and then force the piston down). After a few uses that issue seems to have gone away, but I still have to use another jack on my other vehicle to clear the Powerbuilt. Someone's suggestion of a 4x4 helped me use my 3.5ton jack pointed towards the rear of the vehicle and slip the stand in from the front, but it's way more difficult than it should be.
I sure hope I don't have to use another jack to lower this one. Carrying one jack is enough!
 

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I had some fun with jacks the other weekend. Just as a test, I used my hi-lift jack and the lift mate accessory to jack up my rear wheel. Something moved and all of a sudden the hi-lift leaned towards the body, threatening to puncture the side of my new van! I then used the stock jack to take it off of the high lift. But I managed to lower the stock jack so that the shock mount landed on the place where the handle goes in...Trapping the jack and preventing me from pumping it up! So I put it back on the hi-lift, to get the stock jack out. Pretty comical. No harm was done and some lessons were learned!
 

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Hi all. This thread has me a little paranoid because yesterday I took off the passenger wheels to paint them. I checked the driver's side wheels, and used the factory bottle jack to jack up the front using the factory jack point. I couldn't get a jackstand in there next to the jack, but there was a beefy frame-box-looking-rail just barely aft of the suspension so I put the jackstand there and lowered the jack. No weird noises or deformation of metal or anything.
Then I went to the back and jacked it up from the rear axle. Again I put the jackstand under a smiliar-looking rail just inside of the shock. I lowered it just a little to take pressure off the jack, but left the jack there slightly loaded. Again, no straining sounds or deformation of metal.
Are you all saying putting a jack stand under the frame could tweak the frame, or is the concern more about bending part of the unibody?
 
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