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^^^^^THIS^^^^^
I guess you will never know because you have never searched for information, It is easier finding info in one or two different places instead of 20 different places
Plus it is kind of moronic to start a new thread about a subject when there is already a currently active (Recent) thread started.
 

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I guess you will never know because you have never searched for information, It is easier finding info in one or two different places instead of 20 different places
Plus it is kind of moronic to start a new thread about a subject when there is already a currently active (Recent) thread started.
 

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Comment #2 of this thread.
This thread is a write up, vs the guy that did not even open his hood and just took it into a repair shop, anyone can do that. Truck has been the most informative poster on the problems with this engine so far to date. I will make sure when I search, I will include Truck as a member in my search criteria.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Since I guess I should “find” the 2 rearmost and pull them/anti-seize them, I’m going to ask:

  • What torque are these bolts supposed to be re-installed at? (EDIT: Ultane beat me to this question.)
  • Are these bolts exposed to the “inner chamber” of the manifold, exposed to to intake air, or are they fully encased in plastic tunnels?
Maybe Truck’s picture in post #1 is from the rear?
Yes my photo was taken from the "rear" of the motor (the flexplate side)

You are probably fine to ignore those rear two though, in my case they were not as worse as the mid 4, but not as clean as the front two
 

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Did anyone ever consider, breaking all of the bolts loose with a torque wrench, and use the clean ones to find the torque? If anyone has a subscription to the Ford tech site, they could look up the torque specs.
 

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Last night I watched a YouTube, different intake manifold, but bolts looked the same. 90in lbs. INCH pounds!

Not definitive.

Your method (loosening breakaway torque) might also not be definitive, given the crud & corrosion.

I’m thinking my gut (not-measured) tightening was well over 8ft lbs. (8x12=96).


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Ford spec on those intake manifold bolts is 89 in/lbs then an additional 45deg.

I periodically drip some CorrosionX into those pockets with the middle 4 bolts. I also pre-emptively removed all the coil hold down bolts and anti-seized them- one of the front ones was about a nano-inch of corrosion away from being seized for good.
 

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Ford spec on those intake manifold bolts is 89 in/lbs then an additional 45deg.

I periodically drip some CorrosionX into those pockets with the middle 4 bolts. I also pre-emptively removed all the coil hold down bolts and anti-seized them- one of the front ones was about a nano-inch of corrosion away from being seized for good.
You've given me a project to do this winter. My injector hold down bolt experience with my Sprinter makes me want to avoid stuck bolt problems.
 

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I am sure my bolts need care as I am getting water on the engine. It would seem the better long term solution is to stop the leak. I have my air box, ECU and a big connector covered. Has anyone found a real solution to the leak over the engine? I would start a new thread but... :p
BTW I did read the entire 18 page thread on water in the air box.
 
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