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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all -

I originally wanted a cargo van but I am considering purchasing a passenger van because I found a great deal (i posted about this is another thread). However my build design would cover most of the windows so I'm concerned about framing/insulation - I had planned on using just wool on my build if I had done a cargo van but now I'm worried about direct contact with the windows and condensation causing mold.

Any suggestions? Has anyone built over the windows on a passenger van?


Also, if I wanted to buy vented windows to replace the oem ones (high roof) what are the options and where could I find them? I see that some people have put in pop outs on the middle windows but I can't find where to buy them for a high roof model.

Thanks!!!
 

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I can’t comment on the insulation/window thing much other than both the window and the sheet metal panel will collect condensation exactly the same way.

The pop out windows like the picture below are build to order options from ford. You can get mid row on most or all vans and back row on the LWB extended. You can confirm this in the order guide.



You can find an order guide link on this page:
https://www.mattford.com/transit-customers-pay-less-at-matt-ford
 

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Discussion Starter #3
is that the only option this vertical pop out? I saw a photo on another thread with this window


horizontal pop out on the lower part of the window, however this is a low roof van so it's unclear if that's available for high roof?

I'd be buying this van used so I'm looking for aftermarket options
 

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is that the only option this vertical pop out? I saw a photo on another thread with this window


horizontal pop out on the lower part of the window, however this is a low roof van so it's unclear if that's available for high roof?

I'd be buying this van used so I'm looking for aftermarket options



This is not a Ford window. It is aftermarket. Ford only offers the style in the previous post.
 

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The pop out/awning window is an aftermarket window from CR Laurence. Beware that it actually can’t simply replace a factory window as apparently from a factory window is larger in one corner than the CRL window - I gave up replacing my slider factory window with a CRL awning window.

I suspect the transmission rates for sheet metal and glass are really so similar that your condensation concern are the same either way.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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here's how I did mine. I started with a passenger wagon because it's so difficult to find a cargo with nice creature comforts like android auto and heated seats. Plus I sold me seats for about $1,000
But, I do not have side airbags anymore which kinda bothers me. I will eventually look into retrofitting cargo side airbags into mine.

I went with plywood over the windows areas because I jam my dirt bike up against the wall, and I can add things to the plywood easy.

pro tip, you can actually slide the rigid insulation inside the window sheetmetal gap if you crush it down a tiny bit. Makes for a great fit.










 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks so much for your response, this is super helpful! I may have to pick your brain a little as I go through this process :)

Did you disable/deactivate your airbags or do you now have a warning light on? I've read a few threads about simulators that can be installed to avoid the fault in the computer and would love the drive and passenger side airbags to work if possible.

Did you also remove the rear ac and all the wiring/ducts under the floor?
 

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Window tint will go a long way toward reducing condensation as well as insulate (nano ceramic), it's not perfect but it acts as a good insulator vs bare glass
 

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here's how I did mine. I started with a passenger wagon because it's so difficult to find a cargo with nice creature comforts like android auto and heated seats. Plus I sold me seats for about $1,000
But, I do not have side airbags anymore which kinda bothers me. I will eventually look into retrofitting cargo side airbags into mine.

I went with plywood over the windows areas because I jam my dirt bike up against the wall, and I can add things to the plywood easy.

pro tip, you can actually slide the rigid insulation inside the window sheetmetal gap if you crush it down a tiny bit. Makes for a great fit.

Another dog who likes Thinsulate Insulation. Great to see that it is canine approved!

All the best,
Hein
DIYvan
 

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here's how I did mine. I started with a passenger wagon because it's so difficult to find a cargo with nice creature comforts like android auto and heated seats. Plus I sold me seats for about $1,000
But, I do not have side airbags anymore which kinda bothers me. I will eventually look into retrofitting cargo side airbags into mine.

I went with plywood over the windows areas because I jam my dirt bike up against the wall, and I can add things to the plywood easy.

pro tip, you can actually slide the rigid insulation inside the window sheetmetal gap if you crush it down a tiny bit. Makes for a great fit.

Thanks for posting the photos and the info about them. What did you put on the window side of the rigid insulation? I'm considering doing the same or similar to some of my windows. Can you post an exterior photo of the windows? Thanks!
 

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Thanks for posting the photos and the info about them. What did you put on the window side of the rigid insulation? I'm considering doing the same or similar to some of my windows. Can you post an exterior photo of the windows? Thanks!
I spraypainted the insulation flat black. You see absolutely nothing from the exterior, just looks like a window you can't see through. Well, I have factory tinted windows, and the back ones you just see nothing now instead of a faint something.
 

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I just did mine this weekend. I chose to cover the glass with Thinsulate with the black scrim facing the glass and used 3M spray contact adhesive to attach it around the glass.

I covered it with a piece of 1/2” plywood with 1/8” Masonite over the top covered with automotive carpet. Everything is glued and screwed together and attached to the walls with Plusnuts and rivnuts and 1/4-20 bolts across the bottom and the airbag mounting brackets along the top.

It seals off well and is thick enough that I can screw thongs to the walls later. The top 12” of each section has plywood doubled up for extra support for screws later. I have factory privacy glass and you can see some of the wrinkles in the black scrim if the sun hits just right. I probably should have steamed them out before installing but to late now. I’m very happy with the results.










 

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passenger wagon

@gtluke or those who have converted the passenger wagon. Who do you deal with the AC duct work and other stuffs under the wall paneling? Is it possible to install a roof vent if I want to leave the ceiling panel alone? I am considering a passenger wagon instead of the cargo and any pointer would be appreciated.
 

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<!-- BEGIN TEMPLATE: dbtech_usertag_mention --> @gtluke <!-- END TEMPLATE: dbtech_usertag_mention --> or those who have converted the passenger wagon. Who do you deal with the AC duct work and other stuffs under the wall paneling? Is it possible to install a roof vent if I want to leave the ceiling panel alone? I am considering a passenger wagon instead of the cargo and any pointer would be appreciated.

I paneled up to the AC duct and new headliner will go above it.


You can install a fan through the factory headliner if you want. Several here have done that.
 

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Yes ceiling fan (I used a maxxair) installs through factory ceiling panels easily. Note the MR/HR have the factory AC ducts running on the sides just above the air bags, while the LR AC ducts run down the middle - interfering with the fan. If you're considering a LR, Hein may have an offset fan adapter plate, not sure.
 

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I paneled up to the AC duct and new headliner will go above it.


You can install a fan through the factory headliner if you want. Several here have done that.
spotco. any updates on your ceiling? whats your plan for connecting the panels to the 2nd row window?
l
 

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@timber725 the side panel just comes half way across where the trim is and the trim is cut out to lay flat. There will be a wall somewhere in that area that should hide most of the split or at least hide it. Ceiling will be carpeted Masonite held in place by a few screws, and a couple of long sticks of Unistrut attached to the ceiling (I think). That might be next month at the rate I am going.
 

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Ti
here's how I did mine. I started with a passenger wagon because it's so difficult to find a cargo with nice creature comforts like android auto and heated seats. Plus I sold me seats for about $1,000
But, I do not have side airbags anymore which kinda bothers me. I will eventually look into retrofitting cargo side airbags into mine.

I went with plywood over the windows areas because I jam my dirt bike up against the wall, and I can add things to the plywood easy.

pro tip, you can actually slide the rigid insulation inside the window sheetmetal gap if you crush it down a tiny bit. Makes for a great fit.










Sick interior! How did you go about attaching those shelves? I'm looking to do something similar.
 
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