[cargovanconversion]

I've been working on a floor vent for quite some time, and it's finally taking shape. Ultimately, the vent will be guided through the cabinets under my Murphy bed, but that has to wait until the bed is installed.

I used an ordinary dryer duct and a few other parts and drilled a large hole into the floor of my new Ford Transit. The opening is out-of-sight and hidden within the wall cavity, immediately behind the driver's seat (B-pillar). It connects to an existing access point under the vehicle, making it a nice feature.

When the bed is installed, I'll include an interior 'blast gate' that can shut off the vent and if necessary, an additional built-in 12V fan. As my roof vent is still lacking, I cannot give you any information about its efficiency. You'll have to wait for that.

As always, the entire project can be viewed on its Project Page or downloaded as a PDF-file.

Comments are welcome!

Van Williams

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[ilovehotshot]

Love it. I wish I would have seen it last week. I would have had them make a hole before they put the insulation in and put the side panels up. Great video.

 

[cargovanconversion]

Love it. I wish I would have seen it last week. I would have had them make a hole before they put the insulation in and put the side panels up. Great video.

Thanks!
I've been working on it for a long time. I based it on orton's vent, but it's a completely different design.

Van Williams

 

[morey]

Good idea. Any issue with road noise since its right behind the driver?

 

[cargovanconversion]

Good idea. Any issue with road noise since its right behind the driver?

Haven't tried that out yet. Should do that at higher speeds and will report back on that.
Closing the vent while driving will probably reduce that. Don't think it will be worse than driving with an open roof vent.

Van Williams

 

[Hein]

Thanks for discovering the route for a duct hose. You'll probably want a screen over the intake. They make gate valves for dust collection systems that would work as a valve. If you put the valve underneath with a cable actuator then the noise might be reduced. Some open cell speaker cover foam might help too. I have a big piece that I'll never use if you want to try some. (PM me your shipping address.) Would act as a filter for incoming air as well.

Edit (went to your site a saw the screen you added)

 

[cargovanconversion]

Thanks for discovering the route for a duct hose. You'll probably want a screen over the intake. They make gate valves for dust collection systems that would work as a valve. If you put the valve underneath with a cable actuator then the noise might be reduced. Some open cell speaker cover foam might help too. I have a big piece that I'll never use if you want to try some. (PM me your shipping address.) Would act as a filter for incoming air as well.

Edit (went to your site a saw the screen you added)

The duct still has to be insulated and the dust collection valves are blast gates. I plan to install one on the interior side for ease of use. Dependent on the effectiveness of the system, I might also install a built-in fan. All that will happen when my Murphy bed is ready.

Van Williams

 

[EddieZ]

... Some open cell speaker cover foam might help too. I have a big piece that I'll never use if you want to try some. (PM me your shipping address.) Would act as a filter for incoming air as well.

Edit (went to your site a saw the screen you added)

Hein, I've been wondering if a piece of speaker foam would work for me: I have expanded metal screen in the door of my battery & electrical housing, for ventilation. I'd really like to block the view into the compartment, without cutting the potential air flow, by too much. What do you think?

Also, still wanting to hear back about rail mount pads, for lengthwise 80-20, on the roof.

 

[TransitCaliforniaCamper]

Good work cargovanconversion. Are there any other access panels like this? I would like to vent out in another location.

 

[cargovanconversion]

Good work cargovanconversion. Are there any other access panels like this? I would like to vent out in another location.

Thanks!

Not that I know. But from experience, every model is different, so I would look around under your vehicle.
I'm still puzzled about this specific opening. It has two locations for bolts but no cover. What is its use? I would have covered it anyway, to avoid any vermin from joining me on my travels.

I suppose, that at the right location, you could create your own opening under the van with a second one through the floor inside a wall cavity.
That takes a lot more guts, because you would not know what you were cutting into.
One thing is sure, don't do it at the rear of the vehicle, where there is an issue with exhaust fumes possibly coming into the vehicle.

Van Williams

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[rene12341]

Thanks for documenting your mods. It's great to be able to study the van and changes I may incorporate when I get my van in Sept.

It is odd how crappy and inconsistent the undercoating is applied. Just in that one picture you can see good coverage, bad coverage and no coverage.

I'm a bit concerned about all the random holes under the van. First as you mention, you need to keep the creepy crawlies out. Second, this van is to replace my Dodge diesel truck in which I have done tons of off road adventures including crossing deep water. I'm worried where 2 feet of water will go. I am going to have to spend a lot of time under the van and close any chance of water or dust (man I hate dust) getting to the interior.

More on dust - spend a couple weeks in the desert or Baja and you will find fine dust in every part of the vehicle that is not sealed. It really makes a mess but also screws up lots of mechanical mechanisms, like door locks and windows.

 

[cargovanconversion]

Thanks for documenting your mods. It's great to be able to study the van and changes I may incorporate when I get my van in Sept.

It is odd how crappy and inconsistent the undercoating is applied. Just in that one picture you can see good coverage, bad coverage and no coverage.

I'm a bit concerned about all the random holes under the van. First as you mention, you need to keep the creepy crawlies out. Second, this van is to replace my Dodge diesel truck in which I have done tons of off road adventures including crossing deep water. I'm worried where 2 feet of water will go. I am going to have to spend a lot of time under the van and close any chance of water or dust (man I hate dust) getting to the interior.

More on dust - spend a couple weeks in the desert or Baja and you will find fine dust in every part of the vehicle that is not sealed. It really makes a mess but also screws up lots of mechanical mechanisms, like door locks and windows.

Thanks and good luck with your van!

You can see in the picture that the opening was covered when the undercoating was applied.

This opening is not open to the interior, but some are. At the rear are some openings on a cross member that are open to the rear pillars. These openings are actually covered with a rubber lid.

Finally, I've spent months at a time in the Baja and know about dust. But I also have a dog and know about hairs being shed :blush:

Van Williams

 

[TransitCaliforniaCamper]

Thank you.

 

[TransitCaliforniaCamper]

I ended up doing something similar. But using forced air as I'm not using a roof air vent. You can see it here: https://instagram.com/p/BRjaUG2Fcg3/

 

[pjtezza]

I used the same idea to run the ducts for my underfloor Propex heater. Here is a related idea for a vent that can be closed from inside. Check out the "Optional closeable outlets":
http://www.westyventures.com/propex.html. I bought my Propex heater from these nice guys, but the ducts and vents are available on eBay as accessories for Webasto and Propex heaters if you want to dig around and save a buck.

 

[impatient]

I used the same idea to run the ducts for my underfloor Propex heater. Here is a related idea for a vent that can be closed from inside. Check out the "Optional closeable outlets":
http://www.westyventures.com/propex.html. I bought my Propex heater from these nice guys, but the ducts and vents are available on eBay as accessories for Webasto and Propex heaters if you want to dig around and save a buck.

Wow, 9 months later, yesterday, I see that hole under the van that Van Williams is using. Was wondering WTF is this hole for, and wondered what might already have crawled up there. Then PJ (or was it TCC) bumps this thread from the dead and I now have questions for PJ:

Did you get the HS2211 or a different Propex?
How's the noise level, and in general how's it worked for you? So I gather you somehow cut a hole inside the wall to run the vents? Or did you mount your heater inside, and it's only the combustion tubes running through this hole??? Or what? . Pictures???

 

[cargovanconversion]

I ended up doing something similar. But using forced air as I'm not using a roof air vent. You can see it here: https://instagram.com/p/BRjaUG2Fcg3/

Glad to see some people are using the underfloor access in different ways! Nice work.
How much air can this blower move and where did you buy it?

Van Williams

 

[cargovanconversion]

I used the same idea to run the ducts for my underfloor Propex heater. Here is a related idea for a vent that can be closed from inside. Check out the "Optional closeable outlets":
http://www.westyventures.com/propex.html. I bought my Propex heater from these nice guys, but the ducts and vents are available on eBay as accessories for Webasto and Propex heaters if you want to dig around and save a buck.

I'm currently working on the cabinets in front of the duct; I'll extend the duct through the cabinet to a similar outlet. Dependent on 'field tests', I may decide to add a extra fan inside the duct.

Van Williams

 

[cargovanconversion]

Wow, 9 months later, yesterday, I see that hole under the van that Van Williams is using. Was wondering WTF is this hole for, and wondered what might already have crawled up there. Then PJ (or was it TCC) bumps this thread from the dead and I now have questions for PJ:

Did you get the HS2211 or a different Propex?
How's the noise level, and in general how's it worked for you? So I gather you somehow cut a hole inside the wall to run the vents? Or did you mount your heater inside, and it's only the combustion tubes running through this hole??? Or what? . Pictures???

Before I decided to go all electric, I wanted to purchase the HS2211.
No personal experience, but my research found mostly favorable comments. Underfloor installation is a great improvement on previous models. Like other heating systems, it's pretty expensive, if you include the propane tank.

Van Williams

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[pjtezza]

Wow, 9 months later, yesterday, I see that hole under the van that Van Williams is using. Was wondering WTF is this hole for, and wondered what might already have crawled up there. Then PJ (or was it TCC) bumps this thread from the dead and I now have questions for PJ:

Did you get the HS2211 or a different Propex?
How's the noise level, and in general how's it worked for you? So I gather you somehow cut a hole inside the wall to run the vents? Or did you mount your heater inside, and it's only the combustion tubes running through this hole??? Or what? . Pictures???

Haha, it wasn't me!

You can read about and see some photos of my Propex HS2211 heater install at http://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/camper-vans-conversions/41970-pj-s-camper-van-propane-system.html (though I don't remember any photos of the ductwork). I mounted the heater under the floor, directly behind the horizontal propane tank, all on the driver's side. The combustion intake and exhaust vents are under the van. The heated air and return air ducts were run through holes cut like the floor vent mentioned in this thread. Once you have the ducts in the van wall, you have some flexibility with placement for the register vents.

The heater's blower fan makes noise. Putting the heater under the floor makes it quieter - probably about as quiet as you can get in this form factor - but it still makes noise. Overall, the noise has not been an issue for me or my campsite neighbors. The heater uses very little fuel. I took it out for 4 nights, all well below freezing and, including cooking, I used 2 gallons of propane. Here is my take on performance:

5F Low - no insulation - heater runs constantly - interior temps in 40Fs
35F Low - no insulation - heater runs about 1/2 time - interior temps in 60Fs
5F Low - substantial insulation - heater runs constantly - interior temps in 60Fs

If you want to camp below freezing, you'll need insulation to get comfortable interior temps. Above freezing, the heater will keep you warm. In all cases, more insulation will mean fewer cold spots (the heater only has one heated air duct) and less fuel use.