[4man]

See picture. I can't get the other bolt off the handbrake where people normally ground to, so

I am trying to ground it here Instesd. Haven't seen this one used.. Will it cause problems?

 

[njvagabond]

See picture. I can't get the other bolt off the handbrake where people normally ground to, so
I am trying to ground it here Instesd. Haven't seen this one used.. Will it cause problems?

maybe @orton used that
search around the forum
or maybe he'll see the mention and chime in.

 

[tngw1500se]

There's factory ground a foot away under the mat between the seats.

 

[4man]

There's factory ground a foot away under the mat between the seats.

True... im just lazy and didn't want to take apart the trim peice because I had to ouble sided tape it back down in order to get the floor to fit haha

 

[orton]

maybe @orton used that
search around the forum
or maybe he'll see the mention and chime in.

Did not use that bolt. In the picture is the hole I used. Look on the horizontal section of the "U" shaped bracket between the seat base and the ebrake. You can see the hole that I used right next to the UPC code sticker.

Picture must be of a later year. My 2015 does not have the two bolt bracket that is used for the ground in the picture.

I have not had any issues grounding my vehicle powered inverter to the ebrake bracket.

 

[4man]

Update because it's sorta interesting in case anyone stumbles across this:

I wanted to test and make sure my battery system worked before I went ahead and finished up my cable management. I did this by just grounding it on the negative post of my van battery (which I know isn't recommended because of stock bms) because it would only be for a few minutes while I checked everything..

Well my house battery (100ah lifepo) was charged at 100% but my renogy dc-dc charger was pulling 35A, and the system voltage was like 13.4V. Today I regrounded everything to the handbrake steel, and the system voltage is showing the "correct" 14.4V and the Amps dropped down to like 6A to 9A. Possible the old ground was throwing things off? Would be surprised if the renogy system is running that high when the battery is 100%

 

[Sams stock van]

If you were running your dc to dc charger, then you were measuring the charging voltage and rate, not the resting voltage of the system. The numbers seem fine.

 

[gregoryx]

Update because it's sorta interesting in case anyone stumbles across this:

I wanted to test and make sure my battery system worked before I went ahead and finished up my cable management. I did this by just grounding it on the negative post of my van battery (which I know isn't recommended because of stock bms) because it would only be for a few minutes while I checked everything..

Well my house battery (100ah lifepo) was charged at 100% but my renogy dc-dc charger was pulling 35A, and the system voltage was like 13.4V. Today I regrounded everything to the handbrake steel, and the system voltage is showing the "correct" 14.4V and the Amps dropped down to like 6A to 9A. Possible the old ground was throwing things off? Would be surprised if the renogy system is running that high when the battery is 100%

Renogy DC-DC is unaware of SOC (unless you've got some new version that's tied to a shunt) - it's based on voltage only. So if the voltage on the house side was registering below the configured max, it will keep pushing charge. In theory and all that...

 

[Sams stock van]

I just took a look at a manual for a Renogy dc charger. It's charging description seems consistent with your observations. It will step up the voltage under a steady amperage until it gets to max voltage, then it begins to back off the charging amperage, holding the voltage at maximum setting. It limits the time at max voltage to 3 hours to prevent over charging.

My guess is that each time the charger is turned on it will cycle through charging to determine if the battery is full. If the battery is near or at full capacity, the voltage will ramp up very quickly and then decrease amperage. I think this is what you observed, as opposed to a bad ground.

Some manufacturers have a clear description of the charging cycle logic in their manuals. I didn't find one in the Renogy manual I looked at, but I didn't look very hard.

 

[gregoryx]

That sounds about right. It doesn't have a complex charging profile; it's basically as you describe. Now that you've got the right voltages reporting (similar / matching SOC), you should be fine. Good news is that most lithium BMS units are designed to just get straight high-voltage / high-amperage then they back it off on their own - less draw regulated by the BMS. This was not a thing with FLA/AGM, so the old profiles for them work fine but the voltage has to be raised to match the lithium expectations (14.6VDC max, typically).