maybe @orton used thatSee picture. I can't get the other bolt off the handbrake where people normally ground to, so
I am trying to ground it here Instesd. Haven't seen this one used.. Will it cause problems?
True... im just lazy and didn't want to take apart the trim peice because I had to ouble sided tape it back down in order to get the floor to fit hahaThere's factory ground a foot away under the mat between the seats.
Did not use that bolt. In the picture is the hole I used. Look on the horizontal section of the "U" shaped bracket between the seat base and the ebrake. You can see the hole that I used right next to the UPC code sticker.maybe @orton used that
search around the forum
or maybe he'll see the mention and chime in.
Renogy DC-DC is unaware of SOC (unless you've got some new version that's tied to a shunt) - it's based on voltage only. So if the voltage on the house side was registering below the configured max, it will keep pushing charge. In theory and all that...Update because it's sorta interesting in case anyone stumbles across this:
I wanted to test and make sure my battery system worked before I went ahead and finished up my cable management. I did this by just grounding it on the negative post of my van battery (which I know isn't recommended because of stock bms) because it would only be for a few minutes while I checked everything..
Well my house battery (100ah lifepo) was charged at 100% but my renogy dc-dc charger was pulling 35A, and the system voltage was like 13.4V. Today I regrounded everything to the handbrake steel, and the system voltage is showing the "correct" 14.4V and the Amps dropped down to like 6A to 9A. Possible the old ground was throwing things off? Would be surprised if the renogy system is running that high when the battery is 100%