[f64]

I finally got around to upgrading the 150A alternator on my 2016 3.7L to the 250A version.

First, I disconnected both terminals of the battery. Next, I moved some hoses/wiring harnesses out of the way and
cut the zip tie holding the insulation on the black B+ alternator terminal. Slide the insulation down and remove
the black terminal cover. A 13mm socket undoes the terminal nut. Pry up on the little clip for the 3 wire genmon terminal
while you pull it out. The connector shown below is an extra one I got to read the genmon output with an oscilloscope. I didn't
use it and never got the oscilloscope because I discovered FORSCan can monitor the output.

Having purchased an OTC 4645 Serpentine Belt Tool for this mod, I was able to compare it against a fair arsenal of other tools I had.
It was the only thing that worked. I highly reccommend you get this as there is little space to spare down there
and this tool makes it so easy, being as narrow as it is. Attach a separate 15mm short socket to the 3/8" adapter; orient the
tool as shown; fit it over the inner tensioner (smallish pulley) bolt; crank it counterclockwise et voilà  - the belt easily comes off.
Leave the tool in place while completing the rest.

Remove the lower 15mm bolt from underneath and completely remove it. Remove the upper 15mm nut and its 7mm headed stud, then wiggle the alternator
off the bracket and lower it onto the hoses. Go underneath again to extract it.

Now for the fun part. Position the 250A unit from underneath onto the lower hoses. This 20 lb cannon ball hovered over your
face encourages a good grip. While your down there, get the long bolt started in the lower bracket and screw it in without snugging it up.

Go back up to thread the stud back in the upper bracket. This is where you may question your sanity on attempting this by yourself.
An extra hand holding it into place from below would help, but what I did was prop it up into position to within 1" from the hole
alignment with a hood prop I carry in my car.

Using one hand with the stud partially inserted in the alternator, I pulled up on the radiator hose while pushing the stud into the threaded upper bracket.
The stud needs to start below the hose. My other hand was pulling up on the alternator to rotate it into alignment.
I did this by standing on the bumper with one foot and one knee above the radiator. Very awkward and painful. You've been warned!:|

Now tighten up the bolt, stud and nuts. Crank the Serpentine Belt Tool CCW again to easily slip the belt back on. Check the belt alignment then reconnect the
alternator connections. The final step is to hook up the battery and fully charge it before flashing the BdyCM Central Configuration with FORSCan to change the
alternator parameter to 220A. Then reset the dtc's as configuring anything seems to create them. Once cleared you can disconnect/reconnect and see they're gone.

 

[Damaskinos_of_Athens]

I finally got around to upgrading the 150A alternator on my 2016 3.7L to the 250A version.

First, I disconnected both terminals of the battery. Next, I moved some hoses/wiring harnesses out of the way and
cut the zip tie holding the insulation on the black B+ alternator terminal. Slide the insulation down and remove
the black terminal cover. A 13mm socket undoes the terminal nut. Pry up on the little clip for the 3 wire genmon terminal
while you pull it out. The connector shown below is an extra one I got to read the genmon output with an oscilloscope. I didn't
use it and never got the oscilloscope because I discovered FORSCan can monitor the output.

Having purchased an OTC 4645 Serpentine Belt Tool for this mod, I was able to compare it against a fair arsenal of other tools I had.
It was the only thing that worked. I highly reccommend you get this as there is little space to spare down there
and this tool makes it so easy, being as narrow as it is. Attach a separate 15mm short socket to the 3/8" adapter; orient the
tool as shown; fit it over the inner tensioner (smallish pulley) bolt; crank it counterclockwise et voilà  - the belt easily comes off.
Leave the tool in place while completing the rest.

Remove the lower 15mm bolt from underneath and completely remove it. Remove the upper 15mm nut and its 7mm headed stud, then wiggle the alternator
off the bracket and lower it onto the hoses. Go underneath again to extract it.

Now for the fun part. Position the 250A unit from underneath onto the lower hoses. This 20 lb cannon ball hovered over your
face encourages a good grip. While your down there, get the long bolt started in the lower bracket and screw it in without snugging it up.

Go back up to thread the stud back in the upper bracket. This is where you may question your sanity on attempting this by yourself.
An extra hand holding it into place from below would help, but what I did was prop it up into position to within 1" from the hole
alignment with a hood prop I carry in my car.

Using one hand with the stud partially inserted in the alternator, I pulled up on the radiator hose while pushing the stud into the threaded upper bracket.
The stud needs to start below the hose. My other hand was pulling up on the alternator to rotate it into alignment.
I did this by standing on the bumper with one foot and one knee above the radiator. Very awkward and painful. You've been warned!/images/smilies/tango_face_plain.png

Now tighten up the bolt, stud and nuts. Crank the Serpentine Belt Tool CCW again to easily slip the belt back on. Check the belt alignment then reconnect the
alternator connections. The final step is to hook up the battery and fully charge it before flashing the BdyCM Central Configuration with FORSCan to change the
alternator parameter to 220A. Then reset the dtc's as configuring anything seems to create them. Once cleared you can disconnect/reconnect and see they're gone.

.
Sounds good, I think you might be the first here to accomplish it.

Basically, it is just like replacing a burned out alternator with a new one plus some forscan sets?
.

 

[blackrockseco]

Big thank you for the detailed write up


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[[email protected]]

I might have to incorporate this into my build. Thanks a lot!

 

[EddieZ]

Great job!

 

[f64]

.
Sounds good, I think you might be the first here to accomplish it.

Basically, it is just like replacing a burned out alternator with a new one plus some forscan sets?
.

Yes. It's just an exchange plus the FORScan flashing. Oh, and before someone asks about the cable ampacity, I researched it and found there is only one
Starter Wiring Harness attached to an alternator, so I didn't need to upgrade that.

 

[slim]

This thread needs to be turned into a sticky. Great job on the documentation!

 

[Barryvan]

Can I dare ask how much the 250A alternator costs? Was there any core charge offset?

And anybody know if this can be done on the 3.5?

Thanks for the thorough write-up, f64!


-B

 

[f64]

Can I dare ask how much the 250A alternator costs? Was there any core charge offset?

...


-B

RockAuto has it for $429.78 w/shipping. That is a brand new OEM FORD alternator with warranty as shown in my images.
No additional core charge and I didn't return it as I will try to sell it on fleabay or locally.
You can find them on ebay for around $80 or so w/shipping, used, no warranty and they're probably fine.

I've included some meter readings I took on my 250A alternator as it came out of the box. These were similar to another used 250A alternator I had previously returned
because I didn't know at the time that you can't test these on a machine like they use at Autozone. IE; you can't simply "diode" test these as they have a
large FET (Field Effect Transistor) inside.

I've included my "diode" test meter readings anyway for you to compare before you install your alternator. You should be in the ball park
of my readings and please note that these readings are different than the readings you get on the 150A alternator. After you flash the computer
with FORSCan, you can use the monitor function and see how everything is working.

If you have a helper, I'm sure you will have a much easier time. That would allow you to use both hands on the stud threading maneuver; else you could
remove the hose blocking the way, which I was unwilling to do.

 

[asdrew]

Can I dare ask how much the 250A alternator costs? Was there any core charge offset?
And anybody know if this can be done on the 3.5? Thanks for the thorough write-up, f64!-B

If you find a wrecked wagon, you can get one for less that should be fine. Both of my 3.5 wagons have the HD alternator, so go for it.

The wiring and alternator part #'s are the same for both engines afaik.:nerd:

And ditto on the reps to @f64 for doing what has been speculated on for a while.

 

[Barryvan]

The reprogramming done with a laptop version of FORSCan, right?


TIA for a response,


-B

I finally got around to upgrading the 150A alternator on my 2016 3.7L to the 250A version.
...The final step is to hook up the battery and fully charge it before flashing the BdyCM Central Configuration with FORSCan to change the
alternator parameter to 220A. ...

 

[asdrew]

The reprogramming done with a laptop version of FORSCan, right?

This is it on a Surface Pro:

 

[f64]

Download your VIN specific .AB file
I used the recommended OBD2 adapter.

FORScan will look for your As Built data file in the Documents folder of the drive
you intsalled it to, so for example: C:\Users\YourName\Documents\FORScan

Place the downloaded file there.

You can program without an internet connection now. I used my Win 10 laptop. If you have a Mac, I believe you
have to run Windows on a VM . Check the FORSCan website.

 

[Mobileempire]

flashing the BdyCM Central Configuration???????
You don't suppose you could make a step by step how to video for dummies?
Or maybe if I got more familiar with Forscan it might be as easy as checking a box for 220 amp alternator.
Thanks

 

[f64]

flashing the BdyCM Central Configuration???????
You don't suppose you could make a step by step how to video for dummies?
Or maybe if I got more familiar with Forscan it might be as easy as checking a box for 220 amp alternator.
Thanks

Yes. Flashing the BdyCM Central configuration (Main)


It's too hot here right now or I would make a video. It's pretty easy though:

Remember, whenever you flash something like firmware on a device, you want to ensure two things: 1. You don't lose power
during the flashing process and 2. You have a backup file to restore from in case something goes wrong. You may even want
to have extra backups of the .AB file in another place. I know I have mine on 2 pcs and two dedicated backup drives.

1. Once you've create an account and installed the program you will generate a hardware ID
so you can get the extended license. This is free for 2 months. After that you can get another key for 2 months,
and so on, or you can purchase a long term (1, 3, 5 years) or lifelong Extended License... They have options.

2. Follow the instructions in post #13

3. Plug in your OBD2 adapter to the interface below the left side of the steering wheel and your computer.

4. Start FORSCan; turn the key to the ON position (engine OFF); Click the Car icon button on the upper left column
and then the Connect button on the lower left and follow the initial prompts.

5. I followed a tutorial recommendation and saved a copy of each Module configuration (AS BUILT format).
To do this, select a module and click the save icon (floppy). Name the file something like PCM_original.abt. Do this for each Module configuration (AS BUILT format).

So now you have your original .AB file which I believe can be used for a restore as well as the original
module configs you just saved. Your van battery and computer are fully charged. You're ready to program. No C++ needed.

6. With the Programming link in the left column selected, scroll down and find the Alternator listing. As you
can see, my 150 A alternator parameter says Incorrect value or not configured. Select this parameter; select
Engineering mode +1 from the Mode drop down list then click the Edit selected button. Select the new value
for the alternator; click the check button, then click the Write button to execute the procedure. Follow the prompts.


The vehicle computer is now set up for the 250A alternator, but anytime you go into program mode with FORSCan,
it creates DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble Codes), probably from loss of module communication. Let's get rid of those DTC's now.

7. Click the Vehicle and interface information button on the left column and disconnect using the button at the lower left.

8. Turn the ignition key back to ON and reconnect. Click the Read DTC codes button from the left column.
Click the Reset DTC button. Disconnect and the procedures are done.

So far, so good, but how do you know the alternator is working? We'll use the monitor feature in FORSCan so we don't have to break out
a lot of test equipment.

9. Reconnect FORSCan and start the engine. Click the Read PID data button from the left column. Select the following to display:

BATT_V_INF (Voltage at the Battery Terminals - Inferred)
GENVDSD (Generator Voltage Desired)
GENMON (Generator Monitor)
GENCMD (Generator Command)
GENBPLUS_SNS_I (Generator Current Sensor)
GENPLUS_IMXINF (Maximum Generator Current available at present conditions - Inferred)
GENMON_HZ (Generator Monitor Frequency)



Click any of the three tabs and note the values. The battery voltage should be 14.xx, indicating it's charging.
Increasing loads from headlights, AC. etc. should cause the gencmd to respond, requesting a higher voltage setpoint.
GENMON X GENPLUS_IMXINF should roughly equal GENBPLUS_SNS_I

You can read more about GENMON and GENCMD here. Or google it.

**EDIT** The .AB file is only used as a reference for restoring. Restoring is done from the .abt files you saved.See the next post.

 

[f64]

Here's a tutorial on making module backups. It's been so long since I did mine I forgot you have to click the Run service procedure button first before saving the backup.

Here's a video on flashing, using the easy "text" method. This is the only way I have done it. It may not be possible to use the hex method, idk.

For restoring, here's an example.

 

[nvydvrdude]

How's the upgrade going?

 

[f64]

How's the upgrade going?

It's working fine.

 

[sportcoupe]

Here's a tutorial on making module backups. It's been so long since I did mine I forgot you have to click the Run service procedure button first before saving the backup.

Here's a video on flashing, using the easy "text" method. This is the only way I have done it. It may not be possible to use the hex method, idk.

For restoring, here's an example.

F64,

Do you know the possible causes why I cannot see the easy method programming of the BdyCM module configuration? I only see the advanced programming module for BdyCM (as-built). This is a 2019 Transit using ForScan for windows 2.3.23 EL2 new version extended license, and USB Forscan ELM327 USB switch OBD2 Modified for Ford MS-CAN HS-CAN.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Forscan-ELM327-USB-switch-OBD2-Modified-for-Ford-MS-CAN-HS-CAN-Mazda-Diagnostic/254011867494

 

[f64]

Check that you have the required calibration file(s) in place. The file needed in my case was BK2T-14C187-AB.vbf, which was required
to get into programming mode. If this file doesn't work for you, download and unpack all the Calibration files, so FORSCan can pick the right one.
Here are the links from my collection:

BK2T-14C187-AB.vbf

CalibrationFiles

Unpack the the file(s) to: C:\Users\your_user_name\Documents\CalibrationFiles