Joined
·
105 Posts
I finally got around to upgrading the 150A alternator on my 2016 3.7L to the 250A version.
First, I disconnected both terminals of the battery. Next, I moved some hoses/wiring harnesses out of the way and
cut the zip tie holding the insulation on the black B+ alternator terminal. Slide the insulation down and remove
the black terminal cover. A 13mm socket undoes the terminal nut. Pry up on the little clip for the 3 wire genmon terminal
while you pull it out. The connector shown below is an extra one I got to read the genmon output with an oscilloscope. I didn't
use it and never got the oscilloscope because I discovered FORSCan can monitor the output.
Having purchased an OTC 4645 Serpentine Belt Tool for this mod, I was able to compare it against a fair arsenal of other tools I had.
It was the only thing that worked. I highly reccommend you get this as there is little space to spare down there
and this tool makes it so easy, being as narrow as it is. Attach a separate 15mm short socket to the 3/8" adapter; orient the
tool as shown; fit it over the inner tensioner (smallish pulley) bolt; crank it counterclockwise et voilà - the belt easily comes off.
Leave the tool in place while completing the rest.
Remove the lower 15mm bolt from underneath and completely remove it. Remove the upper 15mm nut and its 7mm headed stud, then wiggle the alternator
off the bracket and lower it onto the hoses. Go underneath again to extract it.
Now for the fun part. Position the 250A unit from underneath onto the lower hoses. This 20 lb cannon ball hovered over your
face encourages a good grip. While your down there, get the long bolt started in the lower bracket and screw it in without snugging it up.
Go back up to thread the stud back in the upper bracket. This is where you may question your sanity on attempting this by yourself.
An extra hand holding it into place from below would help, but what I did was prop it up into position to within 1" from the hole
alignment with a hood prop I carry in my car.
Using one hand with the stud partially inserted in the alternator, I pulled up on the radiator hose while pushing the stud into the threaded upper bracket.
The stud needs to start below the hose. My other hand was pulling up on the alternator to rotate it into alignment.
I did this by standing on the bumper with one foot and one knee above the radiator. Very awkward and painful. You've been warned!:|
Now tighten up the bolt, stud and nuts. Crank the Serpentine Belt Tool CCW again to easily slip the belt back on. Check the belt alignment then reconnect the
alternator connections. The final step is to hook up the battery and fully charge it before flashing the BdyCM Central Configuration with FORSCan to change the
alternator parameter to 220A. Then reset the dtc's as configuring anything seems to create them. Once cleared you can disconnect/reconnect and see they're gone.
First, I disconnected both terminals of the battery. Next, I moved some hoses/wiring harnesses out of the way and
cut the zip tie holding the insulation on the black B+ alternator terminal. Slide the insulation down and remove
the black terminal cover. A 13mm socket undoes the terminal nut. Pry up on the little clip for the 3 wire genmon terminal
while you pull it out. The connector shown below is an extra one I got to read the genmon output with an oscilloscope. I didn't
use it and never got the oscilloscope because I discovered FORSCan can monitor the output.
Having purchased an OTC 4645 Serpentine Belt Tool for this mod, I was able to compare it against a fair arsenal of other tools I had.
It was the only thing that worked. I highly reccommend you get this as there is little space to spare down there
and this tool makes it so easy, being as narrow as it is. Attach a separate 15mm short socket to the 3/8" adapter; orient the
tool as shown; fit it over the inner tensioner (smallish pulley) bolt; crank it counterclockwise et voilà - the belt easily comes off.
Leave the tool in place while completing the rest.
Remove the lower 15mm bolt from underneath and completely remove it. Remove the upper 15mm nut and its 7mm headed stud, then wiggle the alternator
off the bracket and lower it onto the hoses. Go underneath again to extract it.
Now for the fun part. Position the 250A unit from underneath onto the lower hoses. This 20 lb cannon ball hovered over your
face encourages a good grip. While your down there, get the long bolt started in the lower bracket and screw it in without snugging it up.
Go back up to thread the stud back in the upper bracket. This is where you may question your sanity on attempting this by yourself.
An extra hand holding it into place from below would help, but what I did was prop it up into position to within 1" from the hole
alignment with a hood prop I carry in my car.
Using one hand with the stud partially inserted in the alternator, I pulled up on the radiator hose while pushing the stud into the threaded upper bracket.
The stud needs to start below the hose. My other hand was pulling up on the alternator to rotate it into alignment.
I did this by standing on the bumper with one foot and one knee above the radiator. Very awkward and painful. You've been warned!:|
Now tighten up the bolt, stud and nuts. Crank the Serpentine Belt Tool CCW again to easily slip the belt back on. Check the belt alignment then reconnect the
alternator connections. The final step is to hook up the battery and fully charge it before flashing the BdyCM Central Configuration with FORSCan to change the
alternator parameter to 220A. Then reset the dtc's as configuring anything seems to create them. Once cleared you can disconnect/reconnect and see they're gone.
Attachments
-
613.4 KB Views: 333
-
402.3 KB Views: 336
-
390.4 KB Views: 308
-
616.7 KB Views: 322