[danketchpel]

Have any of you removed one of the low profile Jcase fuses yet?

I can't see how you do it without a proper puller and I can't find any references to such puller on the net. The fuse case is dead flush with the block so you have to reach down the side to grab the small ledge to pull it up.

I wanted to check fuse F43 (trailer connections) as mine are dead, both of them. The arrow shows which fuse it is.

 

[alarmist]

https://www.waytekwire.com/item/582/JCase-Fuse-Puller/


No clue, but I found this.

 

[danketchpel]

Thanks for looking. I found that tool also but don't think it will work with these flush fuses. The standard size Jcase is taller and stands proud of the fuse block so I think it would work fine for those.

These low profile flush ones I just don't know about, there must be something. I plan to ask about it at the dealer when I take it in tomorrow for them to find the problem.

I don't want to be stuck in the wilderness with a blown fuse I can't change. On one of my last dirt bike rides we encountered a guy in a F-250 diesel that was stranded due to a fuse blowing which took out his drive by wire. He could start the engine but zero throttle control. Fortunately after some web searching on the smart phone we found the bad fuse which apparently is NOT that uncommon and were able to swap it with another to get him going again. I don't want to be that guy, stuck with no way to swap a blown fuse.

 

[joefromga]

There is supposed to be a puller for them:

I'd say there's no way it would fit. I have pulled them out with a small screwdriver and needle nose pliers. That seems to be what everyone does but the top pops off and you can break it. Just go easy.

They've been on cars for years. What a terrible design.

 

[danketchpel]

I talked to the dealer about it today, 2 guys, one a repair tech another a savvy parts guy who also works on them. Both said there is NO special tool available so far and they both said (independently) they are generally a major pain in the rear to pull out. The general consensus was a pair of narrow needle nose pliers, pretty funky if you ask me.

The way the fuse block is designed to be flush with the fuse case itself and no clearance around it to grab the lip of the fuse case is just amazingly stupid. If the Ford techs are struggling and grumbling about it, and no special tool, then it's just jacked up.

I think my plan is to get a chip puller like this one and mod the tips so it will grab the fuse case.

 

[yelnam]

Let us know how it goes!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Airedrifter]

hemostats

 

[Budsky]

I too thought of the chip puller- just have to see if I can find one of mine- haven't used them in many years...

 

[danketchpel]

I too thought of the chip puller- just have to see if I can find one of mine- haven't used them in many years...

Me too, I know I have one or two of them someplace.....

The one tech I spoke with said sometimes he can get a puller they have for the relays to work but it's still a struggle as there's so little clearance between the fuse block and fuse case.

If I can't dig up one of my chip pullers I'll drop by Fry's or Radio Shack to see if I can buy one.

 

[Wingerr]

Me too, I know I have one or two of them someplace.....

The one tech I spoke with said sometimes he can get a puller they have for the relays to work but it's still a struggle as there's so little clearance between the fuse block and fuse case.

If I can't dig up one of my chip pullers I'll drop by Fry's or Radio Shack to see if I can buy one.

Maybe get a nut of the same width as the fuse and then use hot glue to fill through the middle and attach it to the top of the fuse, which would allow you to grab and extract the fuse. Pivot it sideways to release after getting it out.

I talked to the dealer about it today, 2 guys, one a repair tech another a savvy parts guy who also works on them. Both said there is NO special tool available so far and they both said (independently) they are generally a major pain in the rear to pull out. The general consensus was a pair of narrow needle nose pliers, pretty funky if you ask me.

The way the fuse block is designed to be flush with the fuse case itself and no clearance around it to grab the lip of the fuse case is just amazingly stupid. If the Ford techs are struggling and grumbling about it, and no special tool, then it's just jacked up.

I think my plan is to get a chip puller like this one and mod the tips so it will grab the fuse case.

Have any of you removed one of the low profile Jcase fuses yet?

I can't see how you do it without a proper puller and I can't find any references to such puller on the net. The fuse case is dead flush with the block so you have to reach down the side to grab the small ledge to pull it up.

I wanted to check fuse F43 (trailer connections) as mine are dead, both of them. The arrow shows which fuse it is.

Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

 

[GROOVY2]

maybe use super glue to attach a

string -
nail head -
wood -
?

glue to fuse and then pull out holding whatever was glued on -

 

[headshokfatty]

I popped F48 (12v 20a) the other day (stupid mistake), anyway I looked at it a bit and came inside to look up how to remove them and then just ended up using a small screw driver (like for glasses), it fits between the holder and the fuse and I just had to lightly pry... There was no damage to the fuse or holder, once it broke loose I could pull with my finger nails, didnt seem to tight...

 

[changcaine]

I just replaced my auxiliary power fuse (for the cup holder 12 volt jack). I found that a small screw driver slightly larger than the one I use on glasses worked when I ground the tip down a little. I didn't pry but used an "ice pick" approach to slide it out which is why I needed a bigger screw driver. The fuse position is F49 which is the 20 amp at the top of the right rank. The new fuse (Bussmann FMX-LP) seems to stick out more for easier replacement.

 

[zsilet]

FWIW, I just came across having to remove the cig lighter fuse, I found that a good quality wine bottle cork screw puller's very tip is pretty effective at grabbing the edge of the FMX fuses in the passenger compartment. I'm definitely keeping it in the car.

 

[Bob Diffenderfer]

I know this thread is old, but I popped out my #49 fuse (auxiliary power) with a small knife. The fuse went flying behind the dash somewhere. When I tried to replace it with a jcase fuse from Advance Auto, I couldn't get it snug. It seemed loose and would pop out at the next pothole. Anyone else experience this? I plan to go to the dealer to see if they have another option.

 

[TomW]

That is odd; Advance Auto Parts carries Littlefuse branded items.

The terminals should be a snug fit and should be popping out like that. Loose fit is not good as it means higher resistance, which relates to heat. Not good at all in a fuse box!

 

[Eiko]

I couldn't get it snug. It seemed loose and would pop out at the next pothole.

Were the fuse holder receptacles inadvertently damaged when you popped the fuse out?

 

[Bob Diffenderfer]

Were the fuse holder receptacles inadvertently damaged when you popped the fuse out?

99.9% sure there's no damage unless I just can't see it. I tried the Little Fuse brand and like I said it just would not seat properly. It was not snug at all and felt like I could not push it down all the way. I went to the local Ford Dealership today and unbelievably they did not have a 20 amp fuse. I did look at the the other Ford brand fuses and noticed they did not have the same overlap on the cap. The Ford brand is more flush and the sides of the Ford brand fuses have ridges whereas the Little Fuse is smooth. They gave me the part # so I will try the Ford brand fuse when I can get one.

The annoying part is I don't even know for sure if the fuse was blown as it flew under the dash.

 

[Bob Diffenderfer]

If anyone is interested in the followup or finds themselves in a similar situation, the Ford brand fuses worked perfectly. The Little Fuse brand fuses did not fit.

 

[scase]

If anyone is interested in the followup or finds themselves in a similar situation, the Ford brand fuses worked perfectly. The Little Fuse brand fuses did not fit.

Thank you for the heads up.