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tthrsn - I obtained that image from the 50 amp non waterproof b2b page, its just one of the images for the unit on the page. I agree that it seems odd.

sterling-power-usa.com/SterlingPower12volt-12volt45ampbatterytobatterycharger.aspx ...
Thanks. It is odd and I would ignore it. It doesn't agree with the manual on the same webpage. Sterling documentation is always cryptic and often has errors, especially the older stuff.
 

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perhaps a silly question:

I have not added solar yet but once I do, why couldn't I just splice it into the van batteries and the sterling would handle it as if it where power coming from the alternator?

**That is rather then getting a separate solar charge controller?
The solar controller should be connected to your house battery so it can do the finish charging of the house battery. Some solar controllers also have a battery temperature sensor so the charge profile can be modified to match the battery temperature. In my case I do not have the temperature sensor because the controller location is about 12" from the battery location.
 

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The solar controller should be connected to your house battery so it can do the finish charging of the house battery. Some solar controllers also have a battery temperature sensor so the charge profile can be modified to match the battery temperature. In my case I do not have the temperature sensor because the controller location is about 12" from the battery location.
Is it safe/ok to have the Sterling BB charging the house battery AND the solar charging the battery at the same time? Or do people use a cut off switch when they are driving vs. sitting?
 

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Is it safe/ok to have the Sterling BB charging the house battery AND the solar charging the battery at the same time? Or do people use a cut off switch when they are driving vs. sitting?
I do not know anything about the Sterling BB charger so can not answer your question. Contact Sterling?

Do know it is OK to charge from shore power and solar power at the same time.
 

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Is it safe/ok to have the Sterling BB charging the house battery AND the solar charging the battery at the same time? Or do people use a cut off switch when they are driving vs. sitting?
This was my concern as well, but according to my solar system supplier this is not a problem. I had been doing that already when I was charging via shore power but now I do the same with the Sterling while driving. For safety reasons I did install a disconnect between the car battery and the Sterling. This disconnect is also handy when you're charging the car battery with an external charger so the Sterling does not activate when the voltage goes up.
 

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Is it safe/ok to have the Sterling BB charging the house battery AND the solar charging the battery at the same time? Or do people use a cut off switch when they are driving vs. sitting?
In my setup, I've been doing exactly that. The BB1230 is charging while I'm driving down the road, and the panels are also active at the same time. Your solar controller will manage it, at least mine does (Trimetric SC+TM).

For me with no loads greater than 1300 watts (since I don't have a water heater or electric space heater) - I only have to run my toaster oven and hot water pitcher as the big draws - I do not need big amps. The amps come from my 260ah house bank and are replenished by solar/BB later. It's no big deal for me. Even without running the van, and only 200w of mono panels, I was able to go several days with varying winter sun and didn't dig deep into my house bank at all.

When my bb1230 is running with the van running, and I turn on a ~130 amp load, it only takes ~100 amps out of my bank. ~30 coming from the BB, and 100 coming from the bank.

Later I might look at a second solar system just to charge the house batteries, just 1 flexible panel on the front slope of my high roof and a much cheaper charge controller that I have sitting around (I bought it before doing the research and learning that cheap charge controllers are not worth a dang), and see if I can keep the van batts topped off, but really, I am also just thinking of charging my van batteries from my house bank every now and then if I am docked for some extended time. This is more simple.

This would only get used during daylight and when my bank is full so that I'm not comprimising my living energy but it would be:

House Bank>Inverter>CTEK 3300 > Van batteries = inefficient but very simple van battery charge charge. It only needs to be topped off.

While I"m out for a hike or whatever just charge up the van batts in full sun and when I get back just remove and see how hard it hit me.

I'll be bench testing this idea over the next couple weeks while the van is in my driveway.
 

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tthrsn - I obtained that image from the 50 amp non waterproof b2b page, its just one of the images for the unit on the page. I agree that it seems odd.

sterling-power-usa.com/SterlingPower12volt-12volt45ampbatterytobatterycharger.aspx (I cannot post full links due to low post count)

Hein - Thank you for breaking that all down to the basics for me, that was super helpful. I very much appreciate it.

orton - That makes sense to put a fuse/breaker lower than the capacity of the CCP on the power draw, so that way the CCP fuses are never broken.

I guess for my system (regular alternator and 60amp CCP) it comes down to two choices:

A) 50 amp B2B with a 60 amp breaker, wired to CCP or bypass
B) 60 amp B2B, 70 amp breaker, bypassing CCP.

Anyone have any thoughts on how risky option B is? Theoretically it would not draw above 60amp unless the device malfunctions, I suppose.
I would do B and there is no risk at all in my opinion. Or A wired like B since it's probably a little less expensive.

I don't know why people give a crap about those CCPs. Sure if you have the one 60 amp point and want to use it great, but no need to freak out and build up all three if you needed the 180 amps. Just tap right into the batter post or onto multiple empty spots on the bus bar (open it up, remove your driver seat and get all your wiring done at once) or also there are several empty, big amp, fused spots that are not used within that bus bar box thingy in the battery compartment.

There is like a blank 80 amp and 70 amp and 100 amp fused empty posts pots in my box.

The BB calls for a neg connection direct to battery so I did that.
 

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We bypass the (hard to replace) fuse but typically don't try to exceed the CCP current limits for the particular van.

Try to minimize the run from the charger to the house batteries as the voltage drop along that wire will decrease the charger's ability to acheive 100% SOC. If the run is long then a separate sense wire is often used. That too should be fused (3A) where it connects to the battery.
Waiting to finish my battery cabinet, but my Sterling 1260 wiring plan is as follows:

200A MRBF fuse on starter battery (+) terminal leading to a two way switch (2 gauge wire).

Leg 1 off of switch goes to B2B charger which is connected to house battery on 70 Amp fuse (6 gauge wire)
Leg 2 off switch goes direct to house battery (+) (2 gauge wire).

Everything connected to common ground.

The idea behind the switch is that I can isolate the B2B if I ever need to, but can also use the house battery to 'jump start' the starter battery in an emergency.
Just tap right into the batter post or onto multiple empty spots on the bus bar (open it up, remove your driver seat and get all your wiring done at once) or also there are several empty, big amp, fused spots that are not used within that bus bar box thingy in the battery compartment.

There is like a blank 80 amp and 70 amp and 100 amp fused empty posts pots in my box.

The BB calls for a neg connection direct to battery so I did that.

So I pulled my driver seat and looked at this today. I would like to do the same as Uber Wagon and have a switch to be able to jump the van if needed. I was pretty much determined not to use the CCP to avoid the difficult to get to fuse.

My question is WHERE is the buss bar y'all are using for + and - connections to the van. I am slightly nervous about going direct to the battery post because of all the warnings in the BEMM. What are the connections points and where are you routing wire out of the battery box toward the back of the van to hook in to the house system? :)
 

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So I pulled my driver seat and looked at this today. I would like to do the same as Uber Wagon and have a switch to be able to jump the van if needed. I was pretty much determined not to use the CCP to avoid the difficult to get to fuse.

My question is WHERE is the buss bar y'all are using for + and - connections to the van. I am slightly nervous about going direct to the battery post because of all the warnings in the BEMM. What are the connections points and where are you routing wire out of the battery box toward the back of the van to hook in to the house system? :)
you are not in luck. as far as i know the only pictures of the bus bar on the forum is this thread where the photo links no longer work, maybe you can still get some info from from the rest of the thread.

http://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/electronics-audio-lighting/10290-pictures-under-seat-fuses.html#post219721

i wired mine to one of the studs on the bus bar for a ccp fuse, bypassing the fuse and replacing it with my circuit breaker.

oops, i forgot about this blog, and video, where you can see part of the bus bar: (the part i used next to the fuses)

http://cargovanconversion.com/projects/adding-amps-to-the-ccp/nggallery/page/1
 

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you are not in luck. as far as i know the only pictures of the bus bar on the forum is this thread where the photo links no longer work, maybe you can still get some info from from the rest of the thread.

http://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/electronics-audio-lighting/10290-pictures-under-seat-fuses.html#post219721

i wired mine to one of the studs on the bus bar for a ccp fuse, bypassing the fuse and replacing it with my circuit breaker.

oops, i forgot about this blog, and video, where you can see part of the bus bar: (the part i used next to the fuses)

http://cargovanconversion.com/projects/adding-amps-to-the-ccp/nggallery/page/1
Saw that thread with the deleted pics earlier today. The video you linked to is perfect! Gonna be more steps than I thought but I will hook right into that bus bar, no fuse in that stupid location, I'll put a breaker on the back of the seat like others have. Where is your breaker located? Where did you hook your negative to?
Thanks!

I finished most of the other end of my electrical today and have lights inside now! Progress is slow but sure...
 

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Saw that thread with the deleted pics earlier today. The video you linked to is perfect! Gonna be more steps than I thought but I will hook right into that bus bar, no fuse in that stupid location, I'll put a breaker on the back of the seat like others have. Where is your breaker located? Where did you hook your negative to?
Thanks!
i mounted the circuit breaker on the side of the seat facing the door to keep the wire to the bus bar short and less likely to be damaged, plus in that location it makes it an easy house system disconnect if some kind of emergency gave you a need to shut it down while driving.

my Sterling BBW1260 is mounted under the bed near the house batteries about 10 feet from the transit battery, i used oversize wire to minimize voltage drop, the Sterling as well as the house batteries get their chassis ground from a new shorter bolt and star washer screwed into the cargo hold down bolt hole above the right rear wheel well.
 

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So I pulled my driver seat and looked at this today. I would like to do the same as Uber Wagon and have a switch to be able to jump the van if needed. I was pretty much determined not to use the CCP to avoid the difficult to get to fuse.

My question is WHERE is the buss bar y'all are using for + and - connections to the van. I am slightly nervous about going direct to the battery post because of all the warnings in the BEMM. What are the connections points and where are you routing wire out of the battery box toward the back of the van to hook in to the house system? :)
-The BB isn't really designed to "jump"
-One time I did reverse mine though. I think you could get away with just switching the positve wires are the BB terminal posts, but what I did was actually move the unit from near my van bank, to near my house bank. And then you also have to have to wire the 12v turn-on wire if your house bank voltage is below the automatic turn on voltage. It did charge my van bank and seemed to be fine.
-Instead of all that mess, if I ever want to top off my van bank, I am just plugging my Ctek 3300 charger into my 120v system and charging the van bank directly off that. House bank>Inverter>120v>Ctek>van bank. I would be doing this at times of good sun and no other loads going, like if i'm off on a hike.
-Jumper cables could also be a quick way to do it.

I was just worried to charge with no temp sensor etc on the house bank for one, and the other reason is that the BB is going to like the shortest run from the source voltage, so just switching the wires at the BB posts might just bring a lot of voltage drop. It would probably still work though.
 

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i mounted the circuit breaker on the side of the seat facing the door to keep the wire to the bus bar short and less likely to be damaged, plus in that location it makes it an easy house system disconnect if some kind of emergency gave you a need to shut it down while driving.

my Sterling BBW1260 is mounted under the bed near the house batteries about 10 feet from the transit battery, i used oversize wire to minimize voltage drop, the Sterling as well as the house batteries get their chassis ground from a new shorter bolt and star washer screwed into the cargo hold down bolt hole above the right rear wheel well.
Did you drill through the seat base or come out the holes for the ccp? I like the ground idea! Gonna check and see if there is one in front of the drivers rear wheel that I can access easily. I have 2 awg wire which is oversize for my 7 ft run.

Thanks!
 

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-The BB isn't really designed to "jump"
-
Not going to jump through the BB. Gonna have a switch near it that switches the positive coming from the van between the sterling and a positive lead off the bus bar. That will in effect make it a jumper cable if ever needing to jump the van from the house. Someone else had it in their plan and I like the idea of not having to store, pull out, and use jumper cables. It will be a pretty simple setup to install as well as use. See the attached diagram. :)
 

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Did you drill through the seat base or come out the holes for the ccp? I like the ground idea! Gonna check and see if there is one in front of the drivers rear wheel that I can access easily. I have 2 awg wire which is oversize for my 7 ft run.

Thanks!
i drilled a hole in the side of the seat and put the wire inside a short piece of rubber fuel line so the wire would not rub on the sharp sheet metal.

yeah if i remember right, there is a D ring bolt hole about halfway between the right rear wheel well and the drivers seat.
 

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Not going to jump through the BB. Gonna have a switch near it that switches the positive coming from the van between the sterling and a positive lead off the bus bar. That will in effect make it a jumper cable if ever needing to jump the van from the house. Someone else had it in their plan and I like the idea of not having to store, pull out, and use jumper cables. It will be a pretty simple setup to install as well as use. See the attached diagram. :)
I connected my Sterling right to the starter battery. I also coupled the starter and house batteries to a negative shunt for reading amps accurately with an off-board battery monitor. I didn't need to use the remote for the Sterling because I configured it right at the device. All of this, except for the house batteries themselves, fuse box and solar controller is under the driver's seat.

I connected a marine switch to bypass the Sterling for a jump. It's simply connected to the in/out positive terminal of the Sterling, when switched, effectively bypasses it. I have, IIRC (haven't looked at it in awhile), a 200A fuse on the output of the house battery to accommodate the jump situation. I tested it once, and it worked without blowing the fuse. In fact, the fuse might be slightly oversized.

I didn't mess with the CCP's or bus or anything in the CCP circuit because it didn't really seem necessary. I did read in the BEMM that it's not recommended to bypass them, but I did so without any issues so far (crossing my fingers). I used at least 2 gauge throughout. There's also a 60 AMP breaker at my house batteries, so that one might be slightly undersized, though it hasn't blown yet.
 
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After reading this thread over and over, I finally think I am ready to ask for some quick advice.

Installing a Sterling BB1230. My plan is to keep it simple. (info. to keep in mind - I have HD alternator and dual AGMs)

How does this sound?

1. 12volts from battery through CCP using 6AWG wire to Blue Sea 40Amp CB then to Sterling + input.

2. Using 6AWG from 1230 + out to a Blue Sea 40Amp CB then to either + bus bar (then house battery) or directly to house battery

3. Using 6 AWG from 1230 - out to chassis ground.

I would like to avoid connecting anything directly to the van batteries if possible. Any glaring issues that you see or have experienced with a similar install?

Thanks.
 

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After reading this thread over and over, I finally think I am ready to ask for some quick advice.

Installing a Sterling BB1230. My plan is to keep it simple. (info. to keep in mind - I have HD alternator and dual AGMs)

How does this sound?

1. 12volts from battery through CCP using 6AWG wire to Blue Sea 40Amp CB then to Sterling + input.

2. Using 6AWG from 1230 + out to a Blue Sea 40Amp CB then to either + bus bar (then house battery) or directly to house battery

3. Using 6 AWG from 1230 - out to chassis ground.

I would like to avoid connecting anything directly to the van batteries if possible. Any glaring issues that you see or have experienced with a similar install?

Thanks.
it sound fine to me, the b2b is protected with CBs on both ends. (both batteries, transit and house)
bus bars are better then hooking a bunch of wires to the battery posts!
 

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I connected my Sterling right to the starter battery. I also coupled the starter and house batteries to a negative shunt for reading amps accurately with an off-board battery monitor. I didn't need to use the remote for the Sterling because I configured it right at the device. All of this, except for the house batteries themselves, fuse box and solar controller is under the driver's seat.

I connected a marine switch to bypass the Sterling for a jump. It's simply connected to the in/out positive terminal of the Sterling, when switched, effectively bypasses it. I have, IIRC (haven't looked at it in awhile), a 200A fuse on the output of the house battery to accommodate the jump situation. I tested it once, and it worked without blowing the fuse. In fact, the fuse might be slightly oversized.

I didn't mess with the CCP's or bus or anything in the CCP circuit because it didn't really seem necessary. I did read in the BEMM that it's not recommended to bypass them, but I did so without any issues so far (crossing my fingers). I used at least 2 gauge throughout. There's also a 60 AMP breaker at my house batteries, so that one might be slightly undersized, though it hasn't blown yet.
Do you have any photos of the Sterling unit mounted under the driver seat? I am planning out my house electrical system and what you described would save me quite a bit of space in my battery box.

Thanks in advance!
 

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I'm connecting a Kisae Battery to Battery Charger to my CCP...and I've run the Positive wires (2 Gauge monster given the run length and potential to pull 50A).

I don't see many people talking about how to complete the circuit with a negative wire (CCP only has positive posts), but see some implying that they just take the negative out of the Charger unit and take it to ground. I'm new to DC...does that sound right to you all/safe?! What did you all do with your Sterlings?
 
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