Ford Transit USA Forum banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Not sure this is the right forum for this but I need help.
Transit with 3x100 LiPo batteries, 240w solar was running at 100% charge almost constantly and then something happened & I don't know what.
Sequence of events:
I ran a couple small power tools off the inverter. Afterward, I checked the battery level & there was almost no impact. Great. A couple days later I was in the van again & saw that the charge was down to 89% & realized I'd left the inverter ON. Turned it off. Batteries started charging but stopped at 92%. Looked again next day, very sunny. 92%. Not charging. Each time though that the level dropped below 92, the batteries started charging but again stopping at 92%. I opened the power panel and saw that the Renogy DC-DC MPPT Charger indicated that it was charging a FLD type battery so the starter not the house.
There had been fires in the area where the van is so I thought maybe the panels were dirty. I sprayed them but that also did not seem to have an impact. I don't know if the panels aren't working/connected or if the Renogy DC-DC MPPT Charger is the problem.
I drove the van about 40 miles figuring that would boost the starter and maybe get the charger refocused on the house batteries. No change.
So I'm in Italy for a couple months & I figured the van would keep doing the 92% thing since there was plenty of sun most of the time. I had a friend check and it's down to 8%! Even after plugging into the 110 circuit over night.
Any thoughts, advice, etc.?
Thanks in advance. Dylan
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,152 Posts
For starters, make sure your charger is set for lithium not FLA.

Depending on what you're using to monitor state of charge (SOC) it might not be set up properly for lithium, and/or may be out of sync with the actual charge state. You can manually synchronize most units if you are SURE you're fully charged. Otherwise you need to run a FULL charging cycle on the right settings for it to do so automatically.

As for why it's dropped dramatically, dunno. You need to test what is drawing current, and that your charging system is actually putting more energy back into the system (by looking at current flow).
 

· Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks. I'm not sure how to look at current flow. The system was charging perfectly until then. I didn't change anything on the charger & I'm not sure how to change it. The charger automatically switched to trickle charging the starter, I think, because the van had been idle for a few weeks.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
7,019 Posts
Even after plugging into the 110 circuit over night.
Sounds like you have a 110v charger? Try disconnecting the B2B/MPPT and charge with just that.
Also then monitor to see if there is still self discharge with out the B2B/MPPT connected.
You could also test the B2B/MPPT with each of the inputs independently connected.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,152 Posts
Thanks. I'm not sure how to look at current flow. The system was charging perfectly until then. I didn't change anything on the charger & I'm not sure how to change it. The charger automatically switched to trickle charging the starter, I think, because the van had been idle for a few weeks.
Sounds like you should get some help from someone who can troubleshoot electrical systems for you. Without any measurements, it's shooting in the dark.
 
  • Like
Reactions: PK1 and gregoryx

· Registered
2016, MR, 130"
Joined
·
1,475 Posts
Thanks. I'm not sure how to look at current flow. The system was charging perfectly until then. I didn't change anything on the charger & I'm not sure how to change it. The charger automatically switched to trickle charging the starter, I think, because the van had been idle for a few weeks.
Time to go to school and learn to fish!

Get a DMM (digital multi-meter). Read the booklet that comes with it. Look up some stuff online about measuring current. Come here and ask any question you have.

Learning how to check your system will really pay off when it comes to troubleshooting. Or you can just use Dionne Warwick's Psychic Network. $10.99 a minute but she knows everything.
 

· Registered
2020 High-Extended AWD EcoBoost Cargo with windows
Joined
·
5,196 Posts
Two obvious problems:

First, "I opened the power panel and saw that the Renogy DC-DC MPPT Charger indicated that it was charging a FLD type battery so the starter not the house."

Can't be sure, but this sounds like you think it's sensing what kind of battery it's charging or something like that. It is more likely the indicator of the charging profile it's using. The FLD profile will not charge a LFP battery very effectively - voltage is too low (and the LFP profile would be damagingly high for FLD). Gotta check that setting. If you're correct and it's using the truck battery in DC-DC mode then you're going to have a dead truck battery.

Second, you're not indicating what tool is giving you the SOC. Undoubtedly, you're not charging correctly (from the FLD setting and your observations), but if you have a shunt giving you this information, it must be calibrated. And re-calibrated regularly with LFP. With some of the shunts, this is a manual process initially then automatic thereafter - but must be configured / programmed to do so correctly.

Of course, @Sparky961 and @Boondox nail it: I'd be using tools to see what's doing what and where. But that may be a bit to ask of your friend while you're in Italy. 😏
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,152 Posts
Two obvious problems:

First, "I opened the power panel and saw that the Renogy DC-DC MPPT Charger indicated that it was charging a FLD type battery so the starter not the house."

Can't be sure, but this sounds like you think it's sensing what kind of battery it's charging or something like that. It is more likely the indicator of the charging profile it's using. The FLD profile will not charge a LFP battery very effectively - voltage is too low (and the LFP profile would be damagingly high for FLD). Gotta check that setting. If you're correct and it's using the truck battery in DC-DC mode then you're going to have a dead truck battery.

Second, you're not indicating what tool is giving you the SOC. Undoubtedly, you're not charging correctly (from the FLD setting and your observations), but if you have a shunt giving you this information, it must be calibrated. And re-calibrated regularly with LFP. With some of the shunts, this is a manual process initially then automatic thereafter - but must be configured / programmed to do so correctly.

Of course, @Sparky961 and @Boondox nail it: I'd be using tools to see what's doing what and where. But that may be a bit to ask of your friend while you're in Italy. 😏
You have more patience than I do. Much as I'm willing to help people, I also need to see evidence they're willing to help themselves.

If not, this is the place for paid professional help.

In the meantime, it would be best to disconnect the batteries and hope there's still enough charge remaining to operate the internal BMS for long enough to return and seek that help.
 

· Registered
2020 High-Extended AWD EcoBoost Cargo with windows
Joined
·
5,196 Posts
You have more patience than I do. Much as I'm willing to help people, I also need to see evidence they're willing to help themselves.

If not, this is the place for paid professional help.

In the meantime, it would be best to disconnect the batteries and hope there's still enough charge remaining to operate the internal BMS for long enough to return and seek that help.
I come and go with my patience... 😏

But I got the feeling we had the same vibe on this. 🤔
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,054 Posts
I have some suspicions about what it going on from a prior experience with renogy solar chargers.

It will help a lot if you can list a few details and links to the products and manuals:

  • Solar panels and if they are wired in parallel or series.
  • Exact solar charge controller
  • Exact battery to battery charger
  • Batteries link and specs
  • The 120 vac charger
  • Inverter

I know the smoke game - water doesn't remove soot as well might be needed.

__

In general what is likely happening is due to how the renogy solar charge controllers operate / accept programming, and that they use a fair amount of power from the battery pack even when there isn't any sunshine to charge them back up. It is easily possible that your solar setup is a net load / drain on the battery pack.

Most likely your van isn't so far from people who can look at the challenges and resolve them as their are van / marine electrical people all over the place.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,494 Posts
Given he says he's in Italy, and having a friend look at it, I think he can skip the DMM. I'd just ask the friend to disconnect the batteries (completely disconnected, with nothing on the terminals) and deal with it when you get home.

At most have a 12V Victron IP65 charger (or a NOCO if you are cheap) delivered to your friend and have them hook it up to each battery for a couple hours to get them partially/fully charged ... if the 8% SOC is bogus, getting each battery back to 100% will eventually be required. If the charger doesn't figure out it is Li Ion on its own, it's an easy button press on the charger to switch modes.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Sounds like you have a 110v charger? Try disconnecting the B2B/MPPT and charge with just that.
Also then monitor to see if there is still self discharge with out the B2B/MPPT connected.
You could also test the B2B/MPPT with each of the inputs independently connected.
Thanks! Actually, my friend reported that there was no charging with the 110 extension cord connected which of course is another problem to solve. Especially since I'm not there. I feel like I just need to stop the bleeding until I can get there to fix it.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have some suspicions about what it going on from a prior experience with renogy solar chargers.

It will help a lot if you can list a few details and links to the products and manuals:

  • Solar panels and if they are wired in parallel or series.
  • Exact solar charge controller
  • Exact battery to battery charger
  • Batteries link and specs
  • The 120 vac charger
  • Inverter

I know the smoke game - water doesn't remove soot as well might be needed.

__

In general what is likely happening is due to how the renogy solar charge controllers operate / accept programming, and that they use a fair amount of power from the battery pack even when there isn't any sunshine to charge them back up. It is easily possible that your solar setup is a net load / drain on the battery pack.

Most likely your van isn't so far from people who can look at the challenges and resolve them as their are van / marine electrical people all over the place.
Thank you. Very helpful. I will gather that info & post. Unlike many here, I didn't install the electrical system myself and am not an expert though I am learning as I do not like to be clueless.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,054 Posts
Thank you. Very helpful. I will gather that info & post. Unlike many here, I didn't install the electrical system myself and am not an expert though I am learning as I do not like to be clueless.
Depending on where you are, I could look at it for you to help "stop the bleeding".
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top