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2) Another Home Assistant-friendly Shelly product is the SHELLY-1. This is just like the RGBW2, except that instead of four PWM channels, it has a single 15A dry contact output. It can be configured to operate either at 120VAC, 12VDC, or 24-60VDC. They sell for less than $15, so they are kind of a Swiss-army-knife of binary control.
I'm thinking about using a few Shelly Plus 1 for remote on/off switching in the van. Shelly says power can be "110 - 240 VAC / 24 - 48 VDC / 12 VDC ±10%" , which would mean max 13.2V for a 12V system, which I have. That is a little low when SOC is on the upper end. Any real life experience as to whether these devices can handle up to 14.2V?
 

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I'm thinking about using a few Shelly Plus 1 for remote on/off switching in the van. Shelly says power can be "110 - 240 VAC / 24 - 48 VDC / 12 VDC ±10%" , which would mean max 13.2V for a 12V system, which I have. That is a little low when SOC is on the upper end. Any real life experience as to whether these devices can handle up to 14.2V?
Sorry, not from me. I copied @gregoryx and have a 24V system, which means a 24V->12V converter, which means real 12VDC. Having stable DC for all this automation stuff was one of the reasons I went with 24V.
 

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I'm thinking about using a few Shelly Plus 1 for remote on/off switching in the van. Shelly says power can be "110 - 240 VAC / 24 - 48 VDC / 12 VDC ±10%" , which would mean max 13.2V for a 12V system, which I have. That is a little low when SOC is on the upper end. Any real life experience as to whether these devices can handle up to 14.2V?
FWIW, I've taken to putting buck units on most everything. For example, USB stuff all runs through these now. And a similar unit for 12VDC. I can't remember which ones worked well... but something like this.
 

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Thanks to both for the replies. I hate the idea of putting buck units on everything, but may have to suck it up. My existing 12V devices seem to be able to handle a broader voltage range than the Shelly advertises. The device only draws <1W so might experiment with a voltage divider from two resistors with a target to drop from 14.2 to 13.2.
 

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Thanks to both for the replies. I hate the idea of putting buck units on everything, but may have to suck it up. My existing 12V devices seem to be able to handle a broader voltage range than the Shelly advertises. The device only draws <1W so might experiment with a voltage divider from two resistors with a target to drop from 14.2 to 13.2.
I resisted the premise... but when I found how much more consistent and reliable the Raspberry Pi units were with a dedicated 12>5 buck, I moved on that. Now, it just seems like a simple and consistently reliable option so I'm using it with 24>12 and 12>12. Much as I don't like the added tech... 🤷‍♀️
 

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I resisted the premise... but when I found how much more consistent and reliable the Raspberry Pi units were with a dedicated 12>5 buck, I moved on that. Now, it just seems like a simple and consistently reliable option so I'm using it with 24>12 and 12>12. Much as I don't like the added tech... 🤷‍♀️
Understand.

Regarding Raspberry Pi, I couldn't believe how expensive/unavailable the units are. Although I fully admit I'm a novice with this stuff. I ended up purchasing an ODROID-N2+, which was used in the Home Assistant Blue device. Seems to be much more powerful than RPi, relatively inexpensive, and actually available. Bonus is that it is powered at 12V (7.5-18V)! Have received it but haven't set up yet.
 

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Occurred to me might be worth mentioning: added this battery pack for all the core electronics stuff (RPIs, router, etc) and am NOT using 12V bucks for things plugged into this. Works great for giving a little buffer to me shutting something off when I shouldn't. I use the bucks for RPIs, but not for 12VDC stuff.

FTR, 12VDC input I'm using is coming from the Victron IP20 since our house is 24VDC. So we've already got the right range for the 12VDC side. I suspect this thing would be fine with 14.5VDC input

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...
Regarding Raspberry Pi, I couldn't believe how expensive/unavailable the units are. Although I fully admit I'm a novice with this stuff. I ended up purchasing an ODROID-N2+, which was used in the Home Assistant Blue device. Seems to be much more powerful than RPi, relatively inexpensive, and actually available. Bonus is that it is powered at 12V (7.5-18V)! Have received it but haven't set up yet.
I've got a few Odroids as well. One of them I'm using in the van is the HC2 - super cool little device and they work great. I'm not sure I could stomach the prices they're getting for the RPI4 at this point (or even the RPI3) but I have a few of them laying around, so... I like them.

The biggest advantage to the RPIs is the case options - I've got cases with DACs built in, UPS units and others with 2.5 SSDs and even one setup with dual SSDs (but none with SSDs /and/ UPS, unfortunately). In theory, the cases are similar enough for some of the Odroids, but in practice that isn't always the case. As a base for the Home Assistant, I suspect the Odroid will be excellent. You might have to do your own build - versus just an image - but that's the only challenge. I can't recall if HASS has a compatible image. I'd say at least consider HASS in a container as another option.

It's a shame they don't still make the Odroid HC1/HC2 - such a cool setup for a simple storage server. Pop a hard-drive in and it's a full Linux NAS. Run OMV and it's capable of all sorts of stuff on top of NAS while being easy to manage.
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I'm running HASS on an RPI4 with a 4TB SSD - running Open Media Vault as the base OS with a handful of containers. That doesn't go as well on the HC2 because I don't want to spin up the HDD, so it's just idle unless watching a movie. The Geekworm NASPi case works great for the main system: very low power draw, automatic fan control, and SSD all nicely contained.

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I'm running HASS in a container because it really didn't respond well to non-graceful shut-downs, which I seem to cause every now and then. In the container, it's easy to back up and restore (versus making SD or USB backups for native) and seems to run just as well. And, for reasons I don't understand, it hasn't puked even with a non-graceful in the container setup; I suspect there's some /reason/ for that... but I don't know what it is.

Another thing I'm doing is running ZeroTier on everything, so (with full-time internet in the van), I can access the OMV systems directly as if they're here. This also allows the Plex systems to do some sync as they can talk directly to the NAS / Plex at the house over ZT.

For those not familiar, here's the OMV Dashboard. Everything is very easy to use web-driven stuff.
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Inside that GUI, you can click a few buttons and have Docker up and going as well as Portainer (and Yacht). I like Portainer, so I use that to manage the containers.
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Then HASS is that middle container.

With ZeroTier, each device is an IP address you choose and encrypted from endpoint to endpoint. Then just different ports for each application running inside the containers. Some are "native" or host network, others are NAT'd, but they all come out the same: go to 32400 and you've got Plex; go to 8123 for HASS; 9000 for Portainer, etc. If you're semi-familiar with this stuff (I'm pretty sure @NealCarney is, but for other's sake), it all seems simple. If not familiar, it's probably a bit of a learning curve but pretty cool once it's all working.
 

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Just to add to SBCs since the RPi pricing/availability is out of control, if you have a little more room, look at the Atomic Pi. Its $50 on amazon (ebay might be cheaper) and its pretty powerful. It can run android, linux, windows. I have 2 of them in my house doing various networking things (NAS, DNS ctrl). Power supply is 12v. Admittingly it does take a little to get up and running but if you are in this thread and running Home Assistant in a van, I think you can handle it. Thought I'd shoot that option out there too.
 

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FWIW, I've taken to putting buck units on most everything. For example, USB stuff all runs through these now. And a similar unit for 12VDC. I can't remember which ones worked well... but something like this.
I'm curious why you're using the small 24v->12v buck units when you already have the Victron IP20? Or am I misunderstanding and you're only using these for 5V conversion?
 

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I'm curious why you're using the small 24v->12v buck units when you already have the Victron IP20? Or am I misunderstanding and you're only using these for 5V conversion?
I'm using them for 5V and 9V. But have used the 12>12 with friends that have 12V lithium.


Just to add to SBCs since the RPi pricing/availability is out of control, if you have a little more room, look at the Atomic Pi. Its $50 on amazon (ebay might be cheaper) and its pretty powerful. It can run android, linux, windows. I have 2 of them in my house doing various networking things (NAS, DNS ctrl). Power supply is 12v. Admittingly it does take a little to get up and running but if you are in this thread and running Home Assistant in a van, I think you can handle it. Thought I'd shoot that option out there too.
Looks like a cool toy. I got frustrated with the Atom CPUs in the past... but I'm sure they'd compare well to an RPI3. 🤔
 

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I'm thinking about using a few Shelly Plus 1 for remote on/off switching in the van. Shelly says power can be "110 - 240 VAC / 24 - 48 VDC / 12 VDC ±10%" , which would mean max 13.2V for a 12V system, which I have. That is a little low when SOC is on the upper end. Any real life experience as to whether these devices can handle up to 14.2V?
if you just need to drop the voltage a bit you can use a directional diode, each one will drop it by .4 to .7 depending on the flavor

 

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Thanks for all the helpful info @gregoryx. I’m envious of the Victron 24-12 @ 70A buck device; it sure makes it easy to provide stable voltage and is relatively inexpensive with decent output.

If you're semi-familiar with this stuff (I'm pretty sure @NealCarney is, but for other's sake), it all seems simple. If not familiar, it's prob
You give me way too much credit. I’m a dinosaur who started writing COBOL and FORTRAN code in college and storing on punched tape and punched cards. My background is general management and finance, but I’ve tried to keep active in tech stuff. I’ve enjoyed playing with home automation for 15+ years, and still have a bunch of Insteon/ISY gear in my house today. Have never needed to build my own box though. So the Linux stuff is new to me but I’m sure I will get something up and running. Thanks again for all the contributors on this forum and this thread in particular. This forum is a great resource (taken with the appropriate skepticism and caution of course) and I find most folks on here are well-intentioned and incredibly helpful.
 

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Thanks for all the helpful info @gregoryx. I’m envious of the Victron 24-12 @ 70A buck device; it sure makes it easy to provide stable voltage and is relatively inexpensive with decent output.


You give me way too much credit. I’m a dinosaur who started writing COBOL and FORTRAN code in college and storing on punched tape and punched cards. My background is general management and finance, but I’ve tried to keep active in tech stuff. I’ve enjoyed playing with home automation for 15+ years, and still have a bunch of Insteon/ISY gear in my house today. Have never needed to build my own box though. So the Linux stuff is new to me but I’m sure I will get something up and running. Thanks again for all the contributors on this forum and this thread in particular. This forum is a great resource (taken with the appropriate skepticism and caution of course) and I find most folks on here are well-intentioned and incredibly helpful.
Check out that 12>12 battery pack above. I haven't tested the 12V output but it's working well with the Peplink router and HC2. And working great to drive bucks for RPI.


Can't believe someone else used the Insteon gear! I was super early on that train (because it was backward compatible with X10) and bought ~50 of the gen-1 devices then dumped them all for gen-2. Also went from their serial to USB controller then to the Universal Devices controller. Finally dumped it all and went Z-Wave. That Insteon was the stuff in the day.

WRT, "Linux stuff," I think that's where the OMV and HASS setups are great: no Linux required for most things. Having done native / command line Linux, I'm confident I am not good at it. A little tweaking I can handle.
 

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Can't believe someone else used the Insteon gear! I was super early on that train (because it was backward compatible with X10) and bought ~50 of the gen-1 devices then dumped them all for gen-2. Also went from their serial to USB controller then to the Universal Devices controller. Finally dumped it all and went Z-Wave. That Insteon was the stuff in the day.
Oh, I would be surprised if the majority of folks in this thread aren't Insteon alumni.

My story is very similar to yours, except that I never did Z-wave. Still have a bunch of Insteon stuff around, but as it breaks, I replace it with various WiFi units. HASS doesn't care.
 

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Oh, I would be surprised if the majority of folks in this thread are Insteon alumni.

My story is very similar to yours, except that I never did Z-wave. Still have a bunch of Insteon stuff around, but as it breaks, I replace it with various WiFi units. HASS doesn't care.
I've been resistant to the WiFi stuff because I haven't wanted to isolate it and there's no way I'm letting that stuff have it's way to the Internet. I've started playing with some now; next step will be to isolate their network so they're only internal - then I can add more.

When I did the Z-Wave migration, the WiFi stuff wasn't there and the controller options were still pretty bad. I brought up two different full systems but they weren't ready. Went back to Homeseer. All about the UI for full control for our setup.
 

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Oh, I would be surprised if the majority of folks in this thread are Insteon alumni.

My story is very similar to yours, except that I never did Z-wave. Still have a bunch of Insteon stuff around, but as it breaks, I replace it with various WiFi units. HASS doesn't care.
Nice to see other Insteon folks around. My initial install was in my prior house with maybe 75 gen 1 devices. Current house has around 50 gen 2 devices. Surprisingly, everything has been incredibly stable; have only had two or three failed devices over the years. The Universal Devices ISY controller really allowed granular control of everything and I'm still using it today. But I just recently brought HASS into the mix, in anticipation of a PLM failure which would sort of kill the whole Insteon setup unless the new owners start manufacturing them again. Pretty neat how HASS allows me to pull Insteon, Nest, Sonos, etc. etc. etc. together so easily. Will be interesting to see how the new Matter standard affects the landscape, now that it is finally rolling out.

Side note...one of my favorite appliances is the GE Opal ice machine. A must-have for cocktail hour, especially if you have the bad habit of chewing ice. I started with v1 (which is now in the van) and now have v2. The iPhone access and scheduling is great, but every now and then it will flake out and not automatically turn on at the scheduled time. Now that I have the HASS integration, I have HASS alert me in case it doesn't turn on at the designated time. No more disappointment at cocktail hour...life is good! It's nice when you can have a computer keep track of another computer.
 

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I've been resistant to the WiFi stuff because I haven't wanted to isolate it and there's no way I'm letting that stuff have it's way to the Internet.
Definitely a good idea to give that stuff its own network. Note, however, that many of those devices (e.g. the Shelly stuff) can be reflashed with ESPhome, which makes them much safer.
 

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Definitely a good idea to give that stuff its own network. Note, however, that many of those devices (e.g. the Shelly stuff) can be refreshed with ESPhome, which makes them much safer.
That's on my list, for sure. Still gonna cut them off from the internet. It's just as well; there's other things I've been meaning to isolate and haven't yet... gotta practice safe networking more. 🙄🥸
 

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So this ended up being an expensive computer case. Could have gone with the $10 case from ameriDroid, but decided to take the opportunity to purchase a 3D printer (25% off deal) and learn something new. Pretty cool. Since the ODROID N2+ was used for Home Assistant Blue, they had a post on Thingiverse with their case. Ended up using an amalgamation of models as detailed in my Thingiverse post, including some wall mounts. Seems like the 3D printer will come in handy for a variety of things.

I ended up just flashing the eMMC card with HASS OS which made it brain-dead simple. Was thinking about putting it in a Docker container, but had no immediate need to run anything else and can always change gears later. So again avoided the need to get into Linux. Migrated everything over from my main (house) HASS OS install in Windows VM. Updated Cloudflare with an additional subdomain for remote access. No issues; works great.
 

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So this ended up being an expensive computer case. Could have gone with the $10 case from ameriDroid, but decided to take the opportunity to purchase a 3D printer (25% off deal) and learn something new. Pretty cool. Since the ODROID N2+ was used for Home Assistant Blue, they had a post on Thingiverse with their case. Ended up using an amalgamation of models as detailed in my Thingiverse post, including some wall mounts. Seems like the 3D printer will come in handy for a variety of things.

I ended up just flashing the eMMC card with HASS OS which made it brain-dead simple. Was thinking about putting it in a Docker container, but had no immediate need to run anything else and can always change gears later. So again avoided the need to get into Linux. Migrated everything over from my main (house) HASS OS install in Windows VM. Updated Cloudflare with an additional subdomain for remote access. No issues; works great.
Beautiful case! :love:

I like the N2+ quite a bit. I run those for our media playback units - Kodi players, basically (CoreElec, technically). They're rock-solid and handle the video and audio stuff beautifully.

If you feel like playing with the container version, burn Open Media Vault on an SD card and it'll do the rest for you - no Linux learning required. Click a button to add Docker and Portainer, then a couple more clicks to load the official HASS Docker image. Advantage is things like the tools I mentioned above and loading whatever other stuff - such as Plex.

When you mention using Cloudflare for remote, are you just doing a dynamic DNS and opening a hole to it directly? 😬
 
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