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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm considering using the Hi-Lift Jack Lift-Mate (LM-100) as a solution to the jack point/jack stand dilemma
and am looking for opinions on it's quality/operation. Reviews mentioning the stitching coming apart is concerning,
but after looking at it, I'm not sure what the stitched piece holding the two "strap legs" together actually does.
I guess I could take it to a local upholstery shop for reinforcing.

It seems to me that if the two attached hooks placed on the wheel weren't on a level horizontal plane,
they would level out once the jack starts lifting the wheel. Obviously, the stitching that closes the looped
ends must stay together or you won't get any lifting.

Other options I've considered are using an wide flange I-beam simultaneously raised by two bottle or floor jacks with
the jack stand in the middle. Even better might be synchronized double acting jacks, but that gets complicated/expensive.

Then there's the QUICKJACK, but I really don't want to spend that kind of money just to do a brake job.
I know about the Powerbuilt Unijack too, but don't want to use it due to reviews of it getting stuck.

Like many of you have said, this is quite aggravating.:(
 

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I would never use a Hi-lift jack at home. There are so many other safer choices. Yes, as @sportcoupe stated bottle jack and floor jack are safer and easier. If I am on the trail with my Jeep, a hi-lift jack is my last resource.



If you worry about stitcher on the LM-100, you can reinforce it using a Stitcher Sewing Awl. It is pretty easy to do it yourself. I have used it to repair my tow strap many times.



Hi-lift jack is a valuable tool on the trail but is pain to lug around, extremely dangerous and unforgiving. I have seen plenty of severe bodily injuries in my last 25 years of off roading. Be safe. Get the kids and bystander when you are using it. 0:)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The problem is placing a jack stand where the jack (floor or bottle or scissor) is being used to lift.
How are you doing that without jacking at an unapproved location in the front?
 

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I've used it to put jack stands under the proper jack point in the front when I installed the Foes lift. I didn't see a way to get the jack stands underneath if you have to use a jack under the jack point. Haven't had a problem w/ the stitching, but haven't used it other than for the lift installation.

Side note: I also bought the big platform base for stability.
 

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The problem is placing a jack stand where the jack (floor or bottle or scissor) is being used to lift.
How are you doing that without jacking at an unapproved location in the front?

Yes, I agreed. You have to use a jack point that may not desirable. Hopefully, you have another jack, jack stand or blocks (4x4 and 2x4) to transfer the load back and forth until you can reach the ideal jack point location. As always, place a spare tire or the other support under the vehicle as backup support.



Ford Transit, you can use a bottle jack to lift the engine cradle at the front control arm.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I've used it to put jack stands under the proper jack point in the front when I installed the Foes lift. I didn't see a way to get the jack stands underneath if you have to use a jack under the jack point. Haven't had a problem w/ the stitching, but haven't used it other than for the lift installation.

Side note: I also bought the big platform base for stability.
Thanks for the feedback. I watched several videos of people using the Lift-Mate and have read all the warnings, etc. Many are placing the rubber part too high so that it's not
even on the wheel at all, but pressing against the tire only. I'm sure that wouldn't work too well on the trail with a flat! The wide plastic base almost looks like a necessity.
Another thing that makes sense is placing the base as close as possible to the tire as the lift point will move on an arc as it's raised.

If I do decide to use the Hi Lift, the stitching will get reinforced around the corner from me at an upholstery shop.
@rockDAWG,
Could you attach an image of the "engine cradle at the front control arm", and show where you placed your jack?
 

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At home I use the hi lift with lift mate to place jack stands at the proper location under the vehicle. Works great for that purpose rather than potentially crushing some other part of the van with a normal floor jack. I also had my normal floor jack get in the way of the jackstands when trying to find appropriate left points. I would prefer using the highlift plus jackstand off-road even to change a flat as getting a bottle jack in position in gravel or dirt is not easy.

Note that if you are really picky about your rims, eventually the rubber coating on the lift mate hook will wear through and you could scratch your rims.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Among the reasons I'm not too keen on using the Hi-Lift jack in the first place is that I have a ~4.5° sloped driveway. Without knowing for sure
that lifting on a control arm or whatever won't damage anything, I'll try something else first.

Last resort is the Hi-Lift.
 

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Reviving an older thread. For the issue of jacking up the Transit and then supporting it from the same lift point, these look like they would be perfect.

 
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