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Discussion Starter #1
What would happen if,,,, I expanded my cooling system by installing a
10 gallon water tank inline the current cooling system basically increasing
it's capacity from 4 gallons stock to 14 gallon after modifying?
After mod I'm thinking that water would'nt get as hot because it would spend
less time going thru the warm engine since there's more water in the system , so I would also reduce the cooling fans on/time to help warm things up.
Maybe 3 heater cores with fans or a interior mounted radiator heater like in the old style apartments.
I'm not going to do this but just a thought.

I was also thinking of a way to have a secondary electric water pump to some how
make the coolant/water flow when the engine is off .
I know water stays warm for a few hours even in extreme cold .
 

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a big block cast iron V-8 may stay warm for awhile, but the transits cast aluminum small block V-6 may be another story.
 

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Once the thermostat closes it won't flow. Also, a larger volume will reduce initial heating and may possibly keep the engine from reaching operating temperature and cause emissions issues.
 

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Hi,
Taking a cut at guessing how many hours of heat you would get out of that 10 gallons of heated water...

If you get 10 gallons up to (say) 180F, and its useful for heating the van down to a temperature about 100F, then you have stored (10 gal)(8.32lb/gal)(180F - 100F)(1 BTU/lb-F) = 6700 BTU that you can use for space heating the van.

For my pretty well insulated van, when the outside temperature is (say) 32 F and the inside temperature is 70F, the heat loss is 2400 BTU/hr.

So, in my case, the stored heat in the 10 gallon water tank would heat the van for 6700/2400 = 2.8 hrs with an outside temperature of 32 F. If the outside temp was 51 F, then the stored heat would last for 5.6 hours.

Note that before I insulated the van, the heat loss for the same conditions was 11,300 BTU per hour -- almost 5 times as much! So, have to have good insulation if you want any chance of having your stored water heating scheme to work.

This calculator will let you play around with the numbers: http://www.buildagreenrv.com/design-and-build-information-for-camper-vans/heat-loss-calculator-for-camper-van-conversions/

Gary
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Once the thermostat closes it won't flow. Also, a larger volume will reduce initial heating and may possibly keep the engine from reaching operating temperature and cause emissions issues.
Custom thermostat housing with a bypass .
Good point on larger volume longer initial warm up time.
I deleted all the emissions in my last 2 vans , when the Transit becomes a old van that could be a possibility.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
a big block cast iron V-8 may stay warm for awhile, but the transits cast aluminum small block V-6 may be another story.
I don't think that it would make a difference because most of the water wouldn't be in the engine.
I find it interesting that you said the Transits V6 is aluminum , I didn't know that.
So the block and heads are both aluminum.
 

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i assume it is aluminum from photos i have saw, cast iron is usually painted, but it might be silver paint? this photo is of the police interceptor 3.5 ecoboost:

http://www.hendonpub.com/assets/articles/1091/fbca0b3a-69a3-4324-9130-4a491f9d948e.jpg

http://www.hendonpub.com/assets/articles/1091/1107585b-ade7-4331-a493-e3da92401541.jpg

i wish the transits had that nice black plastic cover, the neighbors cat left many claw marks on the styrofoam engine cover we have!

http://www.hendonpub.com/assets/articles/1091/8b8f920f-dca5-4bee-8335-aa3f3e2c7281.jpg
 

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I have those same marks and I don't think they're cat claws. Seems like erosion. But there are cats around and I hope they aren't sitting up there because I crank up and drive off. Don't want cooked cats.
 

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Add a gas fired boiler instead. Espar makes them as well as Diesel fired boilers. Both types are available in the US, just that not many places sell the gas fired ones. Most places that handle them service semi trucks which are universally diesel.
 
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