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Discussion Starter #1
Looks like Havelock Wool is 7-14 business days out from shipping and I unfortunately can't wait that long to install my insulation.

What is the best alternative I can buy at a hardware store or on Amazon?

Thanks!
 

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I'm not sure what's driving your timeline, but personally, I'd never compromise a quality insulation just because of a 1-2 week lead time constraint; I'd shift to a different project that doesn't have an insulation-dependent contingency.

You may or may not know that insulation type is a highly debated topic, but you'll likely find that people use 3M Thinsulate (expensive, but effective), Havelock wool, or Polyiso insulation combined with spray foam in the joints. The last option is the only one you'll find available at a big box store.

Craig
 

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I would never put wool in the walls of my van. It's all hype and the downsides are real. There is a lot of moisture and high humidity in a person-occupied van, you need something that doesn't absorb water.
 

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I'm not sure what's driving your timeline, but personally, I'd never compromise a quality insulation just because of a 1-2 week lead time constraint; I'd shift to a different project that doesn't have an insulation-dependent contingency.

You may or may not know that insulation type is a highly debated topic, but you'll likely find that people use 3M Thinsulate (expensive, but effective), Havelock wool, or Polyiso insulation combined with spray foam in the joints. The last option is the only one you'll find available at a big box store.

Craig
Another choice is closed cell foam. Used Aerocel in the boxed holes above and below the window indents. Can be folded to get through the openings. Also used it on the sloped roof and above the headliner. Better insulation value than Thinsulate and also good noise reduction. Could buy it locally to eliminate shipping cost. Discovered it when I saw the insulation contractor at Anchor Brewing using it to insulate beer tanks and piping.


 

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I have been helping a customer with a Transit electrical project. So far, the primary insulation layer is just sprayed on (I think lizard skin) sound dampener. It is really surprising how effective this is at reducing heat gain and we are working in the sunshine.

As a practical matter, I think people underestimate the value that a good dehumidifier would have on a van.
 

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I have been helping a customer with a Transit electrical project. So far, the primary insulation layer is just sprayed on (I think lizard skin) sound dampener. It is really surprising how effective this is at reducing heat gain and we are working in the sunshine.

As a practical matter, I think people underestimate the value that a good dehumidifier would have on a van.
A Eva-Dry 1100 can be run on 12 volt DC with optional $13.00 cord.


 

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jeez, ETA for 1 of my windows is Sept 25, what else could i put in there? 😉 this is really not a time to have a strict schedule, here in canada at least its hard to get anything in a timely manner and lots of things are out of stock. needed 4x4's for another project recently, sold out everywhere
 

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I used rockwool which you can get at any big box store and covered all cavities with insulation with tyvek homewrap to keep in any fibers that might escape in the future while still providing breathability. The sound insulating properties of the rockwool is phenomenal and the 3" batts fit great in the larger wall panels areas and it can easily be stuffed into smaller areas as well.
 

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You can buy Thinsulate on Amazon. That's the route I went. @atoine do a great job discussing insulation (including Havelock and Thinsulate) on their website and they said they would reuse Thinsulate again after living in their van full-time for 2 years, if you need peace of mind. In my humble opinion, not waiting for havelock is not cutting corners when Thinsulate is the substitute and if I were in the market to buy a pre-built van, having Havelock vs. Thinsulate would not be a deciding factor for me. Arguments are good for both, and the Thinsulate made a noticeable improvement in my van where we get 100+ degree days almost everyday in the summer. Haven't used it in the winter yet because I only installed it a few weeks ago.
 

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A Eva-Dry 1100 can be run on 12 volt DC with optional $13.00 cord.


8 oz of water per day.

The average person looses 1.5 liters / day (5x that) just from breathing.

It is interesting, but I am not sure that it is really enough to make a difference.
 

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I would never put wool in the walls of my van. It's all hype and the downsides are real. There is a lot of moisture and high humidity in a person-occupied van, you need something that doesn't absorb water.
Exactly, when water vapor hits the cold steel wall of a van, you get water.
 

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We use the van full time for skiing in winter (down to -30C) and mountain biking in summer (up to 40C). Thinsulate has been working great for us, and it's so easy to install... Highly recommended!

 

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Yep you came to the wrong forum to ask, Hein has them all brainwashed here.
 

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If anyone thinks putting wool in the walls is a good idea it is that person who is brainwashed by havelock's deceptive marketing and "it's natural, it's better" crap.

Any other kind of reasonable insulation is better than havelock.
 

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I use wireless SensorPush Humidity & Temperature Smart Sensors to monitor my van interoir and electrical cabinet.

"Data is collected at one minute intervals and is stored on the sensor for over two weeks. It is automatically pushed to mobile applications [Bluetooth] when they are in range. There it is stored for graphing and analysis. The apps allow alert ranges to be set, so you can know when there's a problem without constant checking."

SensorPush
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I'm not sure what's driving your timeline, but personally, I'd never compromise a quality insulation just because of a 1-2 week lead time constraint; I'd shift to a different project that doesn't have an insulation-dependent contingency.

You may or may not know that insulation type is a highly debated topic, but you'll likely find that people use 3M Thinsulate (expensive, but effective), Havelock wool, or Polyiso insulation combined with spray foam in the joints. The last option is the only one you'll find available at a big box store.

Craig
Working on a timeline with my buddy who is doing a lot of the work for/with me, and trying to make the most of his hours while he's available... seems most of the time consuming work will be done after the insulation/walls are up, so I was trying to get that in first. Figured out a couple things I can do in the meantime while I wait though.

And yes, now seeing the debate lol. 3M seems to be a solid option, and a bit quicker of a turnaround than the wool, too. Polyiso I haven't really explored yet, but will do.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I would never put wool in the walls of my van. It's all hype and the downsides are real. There is a lot of moisture and high humidity in a person-occupied van, you need something that doesn't absorb water.
Hadn't seen these downsides yet, but makes sense. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Another choice is closed cell foam. Used Aerocel in the boxed holes above and below the window indents. Can be folded to get through the openings. Also used it on the sloped roof and above the headliner. Better insulation value than Thinsulate and also good noise reduction. Could buy it locally to eliminate shipping cost. Discovered it when I saw the insulation contractor at Anchor Brewing using it to insulate beer tanks and piping.


Interesting... I like this concept, and first I'm hearing of it. Good to have the better insulation value since I'm thinking of leaving more windows from the passenger van up than initially planned, vs boarding them up for more wall/cabinet space. Thank you!
 
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