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Discussion Starter #1
Would anyone have any pics they could share showing the location of grounding point no. 25 (2018 BEMM) somewhere behind the front passenger seat? Thanks for the help.
 

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I don't have a picture of that but the D ring location bolts sure seem to work good for mounting grounds and are all over the place.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks - had thought about that originally (using the D-Ring location), but because a 1000W inverter will be connected to this location, and the BEMM has a cautionary note that vehicle integrity could be affected if grounding locations are not used, I was planning on investigating this spot (Groundling Location No. 25) as a possible grounding location.
 

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Its been a while, but I think the primary BEMM ground location is between the seats near the ebrake. For what it's worth, I'm using the D-ring above the passenger wheel well for my Sterling Battery 2 Battery charger ground without issue (~50A).
 

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I am of the thinking that it is unwise to disturb factory grounds, One un-re-torqued factory ground connection will cause a bad ground for some part of the vehicle electrics. (Few people have a torque driver and the factory torque numbers are hard to find.)

It is better to use the before mentioned D-ring cargo hold down bolt.
 

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I went direct to van battery for 12v and ground for my 2k inverter with 2/0 cable because I didn't want to rely on the smaller (and longer) factory frame to van battery cabling.
 

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I went direct to van battery for 12v and ground for my 2k inverter with 2/0 cable because I didn't want to rely on the smaller (and longer) factory frame to van battery cabling.



I, too, went directly to the battery for the inverter ground. My inverter is mounted on the bulkhead partition directly behind the driver's seat so both its power and ground cables are <2 ft long. That location has good cooling and is out of sight, for the most part, too. FWIW.


--Frank
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Question Concerning Grounding to Pillar B D-Clip - Bolt size is approximately 7/16 inch, should the associated lug for the 2/0 grounding cable be appropriately sized to accommodate use of a 7/16 bolt, or should a supplemental grounding plate first be attached to the location (using the existing 7/16 inch bolt to fasten) and then attaching a 2/0 cable to the supplemental grounding plate? I have an existing 2/0 cable with 1/4” connectors, and would like to continue using them for this purpose. Thanks for help?
 

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Question Concerning Grounding to Pillar B D-Clip - Bolt size is approximately 7/16 inch, should the associated lug for the 2/0 grounding cable be appropriately sized to accommodate use of a 7/16 bolt, or should a supplemental grounding plate first be attached to the location (using the existing 7/16 inch bolt to fasten) and then attaching a 2/0 cable to the supplemental grounding plate? I have an existing 2/0 cable with 1/4” connectors, and would like to continue using them for this purpose. Thanks for help?
It depends on how wide the lug is. I used 2/0 1/2" lugs. I'd suggest buying a couple new lugs rather than introduce the added resistance of a plate and its additional fasteners.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks - wasn’t sure if the additional grounding plate would adversely impact the electrical circuit and be of significant concern. I’m trying to install my previous system temporarily in my new Transit so that I can get away for the summer (and then permanently install it later in the year once the galley would be completed). What could one expect should a grounding plate be used - excessive overheating? If overheating, would it be at a level to create a concern (too hot to touch) even if the inverter operated very infrequently (1 / day), for limited durations (< 4 minutes), and be monitored whenever 1000 W inverter (83 amps 12 V DC) would be used? I’m just wondering whether I need to purchase new cables with 1/2 lugs now for the temporary installation that hopefully can also be used later for the permanent install, or whether the additional grounding plate could be temporarily used? Thanks for assistance.
 

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Thanks - wasn’t sure if the additional grounding plate would adversely impact the electrical circuit and be of significant concern. I’m trying to install my previous system temporarily in my new Transit so that I can get away for the summer (and then permanently install it later in the year once the galley would be completed). What could one expect should a grounding plate be used - excessive overheating? If overheating, would it be at a level to create a concern (too hot to touch) even if the inverter operated very infrequently (1 / day), for limited durations (< 4 minutes), and be monitored whenever 1000 W inverter (83 amps 12 V DC) would be used? I’m just wondering whether I need to purchase new cables with 1/2 lugs now for the temporary installation that hopefully can also be used later for the permanent install, or whether the additional grounding plate could be temporarily used? Thanks for assistance.
You can drill out the lugs you have, if they are sufficiently wide enough to accept a 7/16" hole. How wide are they? A plate isn't ideal but can still work if properly done. Use something highly conductive, like copper, to avoid heat and voltage drop. If it gets hot at all, its wrong.
 

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I went direct to van battery for 12v and ground for my 2k inverter with 2/0 cable because I didn't want to rely on the smaller (and longer) factory frame to van battery cabling.

That only works if you have the dual battery option, 90 Percent of the Transits on the road only have the single battery.


Quote from linked document from Ford: Note:Single Battery variants The B+ post on the single battery terminal can only accommodate a single terminal connection. The post is fully occupied by the alternator sense circuit, and cannot support an additional aftermarket terminal connection.

https://madocumentupload.marketingassociates.com/api/Document/GetFile?v1=4306745&v2=053018034652&v3=60&v4=79180d85f80acf67975ca44af0e6bbc7f22e42b2fe4e90f0bc22227f&v5=False


 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for all the excellent advice. My existing 2 / 0 cable’s lugs are about 1/2 wide so not a candidate for drilling out. I like the copper plate suggestion for the grounding plate. It would only be used temporarily (inverter to make coffee and run microwave for this summer’s trip). The other option would be to run the cable back to the batteries. Yes I do have dual batteries and could also do this as option - but once again I would have to purchase a new cable (would need slightly longer length). I may play it safe and order a new cable with the appropriate lugs on it. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for all the suggestions! Took a look at the BEMM and apparently an auxiliary ground stud and associated cable are accessible on the rear battery (dual battery option). This 6 mm ground stud should work with my existing cable with 1/4 inch lugs. However, would anyone know where to get a 6 mm self locking crimp hexagonal nut that Ford recommends for high current connections? The last time I tried to find one, it was impossible to locate. Thanks for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Negative Terminals

It appears that a lot of folks are using the negative post stud without issue. Any opinion why Ford would recommend in BEMM that high loads should be connected directly to vehicle body and not the negative battery terminal (Section 4.4.6 TRANSIT BEMM). Supposedly, it could interfere with the operation of the BMS (battery management sensor) sitting on top of Battery No.1 positive terminal. In the EU version of the Transit BEMM, it states “connecting to the negative battery terminal will bypass the BMS and affect the correct assessment of the battery state of charge”. Not sure if this is a concern or not? Any assistance would be appreciated. Thanks for all the help!
 

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FWIW
Ground is not always ground and it does make a difference where the connection is made.

I think the Ford recommendations are regarding high loads from the Ford battery. Even in that case I recommend the following.

Inverters are extremely strong and noisy electrical sources and can / will interfere with radio, audio and the vehicle computers. It may only happen when the inverter is turn off or on or could be constant. It is a very complex system that may only occasionally have issues or simply be a continuous buzz on any AM station you try to use.

Most inverters have a case ground lug, the battery negative and the battery positive. The battery terminals can easily carry over 240A in a 2000W inverter. Potential problems can be minimized by connecting the negative and positive battery cables directly (or directly as possible) to the battery. Then to ground. Most of the inverter generated noise will be localized to the (short) cables between the inverter and battery.

Since now there are no high currents in the vehicle chassis you can use a very short wire to connect the battery ground and the inverter case directly to the chassis at those locations. No need to use a specific ground location. This is the best of both worlds in providing the best RF shielding (the very short wires to chassis ground) and minimizing noise injection into chassis ground by isolating the return path for the inverter.

You still need the good connection to ground (at the battery) since most installations will also have many smaller 12V loads (lights, fans, etc).

If you use the vehicle battery, I would run my inverter negative cable to the same stud used for battery negative.

If you use a battery current sensor it should be in that heavy gauge wire between the battery and inverter negatives. No other connections to that wire.

This method solved some ham radio interference issues that I had.

Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thank you for your time and all the help. My 1000 W inverter only has positive and negative lugs, no case ground lug. I’m now thinking of using two of the three 60 amp Customer Connection Points for inverter power, and the negative stud on Battery No. 2 for negative. The negative stud on Battery No. 2 is attached to cable CK4T-14301, which is believed to be the cable that goes to the chassis ground. I think this should work! Not an electrician, so truly appreciate all the advice and recommendations.
 

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I'm connecting a Kisae Battery to Battery Charger to my CCP...and I've run the Positive wires (2 Gauge monster given the run length and potential to pull 50A).

I don't see many people talking about how to complete the circuit with a negative wire (CCP only has positive posts), but see some implying that they just take the negative out of the Charger unit and take it to ground. I'm new to DC...does that sound right to you all/safe?!
 
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