[momo2477]

Sorry to bring up this never ending question, but I think I'm at the point where I need to ask someone. I've read through the countless number of other threads regarding grounds but I still need some help.

I'm following the EXPLORIST.life 3000w inverter 400-600Ah build and need to ground my Orion-TR Smart 30A Isolated Charger. It's a 6awg wire that's supposed to go from the B2B charger to the negative terminal of the starter battery, but that isn't recommended to do per the BEMM.

Originally I was going to use the D-Ring location that's right behind the driver seat, but after tearing up the floor I put down it looks like that hole isn't threaded 😡.... it also might be too much trouble trying to tap it. So here is what I came up with.

Option 1: Drill a hole in red right above the sliding door

Option 2: Right behind the driver seat on a piece of somewhat thicker sheet metal. This location is less ideal because now that I installed my partition wall it is sealed off. Also any potential retorquing would be a pain also. Anything behind the partition wall is a no go for ~40" since my shower is going there

Option 3: Somewhere else? I don't really want to use GP25 since I've seen its more trouble than its worth getting to that location under the 2 covers. Is somewhere in the back of the van like GP26/27/28 too far? I've read that not only do the +- wires need to be the same length, but they should also be placed closely together.

Thanks!

Option 1 View attachment 171455

Option 2 View attachment 171456

 

[NealCarney]

Here's a picture of my ground just above and to left of GP26/27/28. Works great.

 

[momo2477]

Here's a picture of my ground just above and to left of GP26/27/28. Works great.

View attachment 171524

Is that coming from your B2B? That looks like the 4/0 that comes from the bus bar.

 

[Sams stock van]

The only time I've heard that positive and negative wires should be equal is in the context of charging multiple batteries. The issue is to ensure each battery "sees" the same voltage as the resistance in the cables should be equal. The notion that all wire be the same length makes little sense. It's a single circuit of both positive and negative to get current flow.

 

[kenryan]

Here's a picture of my ground just above and to left of GP26/27/28. Works great.

View attachment 171524

What kind of washer are you using? Looks like half of a Nordlock pair.

 

[NealCarney]

Is that coming from your B2B? That looks like the 4/0 that comes from the bus bar.

It is indeed the 4/0 from my bus bar. I don't have a B2B and instead charge directly (sort of) from the alternator.

I am no expert, but I think you might want to take a look at this thread and this thread. I think the first has confirmation from Ford that you can connect to the battery negative if you want, which I guess you do since you have an isolated B2B. If you already have a chassis connection via your bus bar, and are looking to do a second chassis connection with the start battery connection of your B2B, I would say not to do that: either connect it directly to the battery (preferred) or connect it to your negative bus bar (same as your B2B house battery connection). As I said, no expert; others can chime in.

 

[NealCarney]

What kind of washer are you using? Looks like half of a Nordlock pair.

Yes, using stainless Nordlock washers. It is a full pair. Just thin so doesn't show well in picture. Used two pairs; one on each side of the sheet metal.

 

[momo2477]

The only time I've heard that positive and negative wires should be equal is in the context of charging multiple batteries. The issue is to ensure each battery "sees" the same voltage as the resistance in the cables should be equal. The notion that all wire be the same length makes little sense. It's a single circuit of both positive and negative to get current flow.

I guess application might matter here somewhat. While I haven't been seeing this discussed in regards to camper van house systems, I've been seeing the question pop up in general DC terms on an electrical engineering forum. While + and - leads are not required to be the same length it looks like it's generally recommended. Having them the same length reduces the electromagnetic interference. Even more so if you run them together and twist them together. Might not be applicable in this scenario then.

 

[Michael Ophus]

The ford D-Rings come with self tapping bolts, I moved a couple of mine to holes that were unthreaded. I just made sure they were straight and impacted them into the holes, You could probably do it with a ratchet wrench too.

 

[momo2477]

The ford D-Rings come with self tapping bolts, I moved a couple of mine to holes that were unthreaded. I just made sure they were straight and impacted them into the holes, You could probably do it with a ratchet wrench too.

My transit didn’t come with any D-Rings so I don’t have any factory bolts. I found these through a part number but I’m not sure I see anything unique about the bolt that would indicate I can just put it in a non threaded hole and it would tap itself. I’m not doubting you. I’m just confused. I was under the impression that I would need to use a tap like this first to create the threads.

 

[Michael Ophus]

Yeah it looks like the same ones I have on my 2016, See how the end of the bolt has a slight taper to it. That taper is what helps it to start self threading but you have to make sure the bolt is perfectly straight when first starting to thread it in the hole. 2015-2020 Ford Retainer Plate BK2Z-15550A74-A | Online Ford Parts Catalog

Since you do not have D-Rings from the factory it would make more sense just to buy a Tap, Since you only need one threaded hole a cheap tap from harbor freight might work.