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I bought a Yeti 3000 for my van and wanted to provide some feedback.

I used this cable
Anderson to ring cable
to go to a Blue Sea distribution
and then all my 12V accessories get fed through that.
Super easy and pretty clean.
I like this approach! Do you have any pictures you can share?

I'm wondering if there is a way I can wire it up so that my cooler/fan can run on car 12v when driving and/or when the YETI is not installed, but then off YETI when parked, without changing the outlet the device is plugged into?
 

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I like this approach! Do you have any pictures you can share?

I'm wondering if there is a way I can wire it up so that my cooler/fan can run on car 12v when driving and/or when the YETI is not installed, but then off YETI when parked, without changing the outlet the device is plugged into?
I don't have great pics but I followed the broad outline on wplate on this forum. He put together a useful video here youtube video

I used this cable from the 12V output on my Yeti to the BlueSky Fuse block. Then I attach all my 12V appliances to this fusebox. While the pic doesn't show all that attached devices, they include USB charges, Maxxfan, lights.

 

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Can anyone with a GZ yeti Link module tell me the EC8 terminal polarity on the back of the unit? I made my own cables since my yeti is at the opposite corner from my CCPs and required a 17 feet cable span. Unfortunately there is no indication or wire diagram showing which side of the EC8 connection is positive or negative on the back of the Link Module. I don't want to hook it up backwards and let all the magic smoke out. GZ uses proprietary cords and rubber boots that are insulated like an extension cord, so I can't see which wire goes where from the interwebz.

If someone who has a link module who may have spliced off the insulation on the cable, or could measure their EC8 cable directly with an ohm meter and tell me which side is which, I would greatly appreciate any info you can provide. I have had no luck getting through to GZ tech support so far.
 

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Finally got through to GZ tech support today, after being on the phone for an hour they were not sure either. Told me they would have an engineer email me. Nothing yet.

I am tempted to take the 50/50 odds and plug the thing in. Before I do that, If any one has one and could measure the polarity on EC8 terminals of the cord, I would greatly appreciate it.

If you smell smoke its probably because I plugged it in backwards.
 

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Mystery solved. "A friend" took "his" Link module apart and traced the wires. Luckily they were color coded. If you're looking straight at the back of the module the terminal on the right (adjacent to the air vent) is the positive terminal.



Fired the engine up, 450 watts of input at idle, no magic smoke. Huzzah.


Need to make your own cable, This is what I used

EC8 connectors (only need the terminals, the plastic housing doesn't fit with GZ's proprietary boot):

The EC8 connectors just get soldered on, very easy to do, use some shrink wrap to protect the ends and make your own protective boot.

I used 4AWG for the GZ yeti 1000 that pulls 55 amps for ~17 feet of cable span:

If you have a GZ 1400 or 3000 that will pull more amps, or need a longer cable span, you may need a different gauge cable. Check Circuit Wizard - Blue Sea Systems before buying your cable, so you don't burn down your van.

Here is the ring terminal I used: IF you don't want to own a whole package of them, you can buy these at most autoparts or welding supply stores.
The ring terminal fits on the CCP, use a washer and a 5mm nut to secure it.

Keep in mind the CCP is live when the vehicle is off. Be careful not to touch the other end to any metal in the van.

Make sure the Link is in vehicle mode, so it doesn't drain your battery.
 

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Stoked on this thread, I have zero prior electrical knowledge, but appreciate the product links and descriptions of what you are doing. I have a GZ 1000 I will be putting in the back of my Transit and plan do only charge with the Link via the alternator. Planning on connecting the GZ to a Blue Sea fuse box then running led lights, maxair fan, and possibly a heater or water pump and also a dometic fridge via the 12V regulated cable. This is just a weekend van, and will be a daily commuter for me. A few questions:

1) Do I need the GZ max current cable to get 40 amps from the GZ to my fuse box? Doesn't seem like anyone mentions this product, but I see Freedom Van Go use this with their integration kit they sell. What's the benefit and does anything draw that many amps? If not, seems like using bitburger's amazon link to the APP to Ring Terminals cable is all I need to connect the GZ to the fuse block.

2) Maybe a silly question, but the Male EC8 to Ring Terminal connector to connect the GZ Link to the alternator. The GZ youtube video shows it being connected straight to the terminals on the battery. Why connect it to the CCP. What's the benefit and can you basically connect it to the CCP or the battery, or is one better or more convenient that the other.

Thanks
 

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Stoked on this thread, I have zero prior electrical knowledge, but appreciate the product links and descriptions of what you are doing. I have a GZ 1000 I will be putting in the back of my Transit and plan do only charge with the Link via the alternator. Planning on connecting the GZ to a Blue Sea fuse box then running led lights, maxair fan, and possibly a heater or water pump and also a dometic fridge via the 12V regulated cable. This is just a weekend van, and will be a daily commuter for me. A few questions:

1) Do I need the GZ max current cable to get 40 amps from the GZ to my fuse box? Doesn't seem like anyone mentions this product, but I see Freedom Van Go use this with their integration kit they sell. What's the benefit and does anything draw that many amps? If not, seems like using bitburger's amazon link to the APP to Ring Terminals cable is all I need to connect the GZ to the fuse block.

2) Maybe a silly question, but the Male EC8 to Ring Terminal connector to connect the GZ Link to the alternator. The GZ youtube video shows it being connected straight to the terminals on the battery. Why connect it to the CCP. What's the benefit and can you basically connect it to the CCP or the battery, or is one better or more convenient that the other.

Thanks
1) I did not use a 40amp max current cable, instead I used the 12V current regulating cable from the Anderson power pole output to go directly to the fridge with an inline fuse. I then wired the cigarette style outlet directly to the fuse block to power the fan and lights, and an additional USB charger. Nothing else on the fuse block required a large amp draw, so one 10A output was sufficient, however if you plan on powering more devices you may consider combining outputs into the fuse block. .

2) You could use either, but the battery is more work to access in a transit than the CCP. The CCP connection is easily reached on the base of the the driver seat, already has a 60amp fuse connected to it, and doesn't require taking the drivers seat off. Win Win. You could totally wire it to the battery if you wanted to, Id reccomend installing an inline fuse if you do.
 

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I bought my Link module from Yeti and they throw in the cables for free. I just installed using mrsavage's guide. Easy peazy, and it is working perfectly. The 12' + 2' was enough for me, so I did not need a custom cable.
You lucky Devil. That would have saved me a considerable amount of time.

Fun fact. I was told that if you plug a solar panel into the front input on the link, it will trickle charge your starter battery once the yeti is full. I will test this theory and report back.
 

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You lucky Devil. That would have saved me a considerable amount of time.

Fun fact. I was told that if you plug a solar panel into the front input on the link, it will trickle charge your starter battery once the yeti is full. I will test this theory and report back.
Please let us know what you find. I asked Goal Zero about trickle charging or even charging a starter battery from a yeti, and they said their products could not charge another battery. Not sure if they meant the yeti itself, or if the link cannot pass thorough either.
 

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I like this approach! Do you have any pictures you can share?

I'm wondering if there is a way I can wire it up so that my cooler/fan can run on car 12v when driving and/or when the YETI is not installed, but then off YETI when parked, without changing the outlet the device is plugged into?
Belatedly, I put some pictures of the electrical in my build. If you are still interested, check it out here
There are a few pictures that might help.
 

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I had an interesting exchange with GZ regarding the inverter. I called to see if Goal Zero would offer an upgrade path for me on a GZ3000 so I could get the newer bigger better inverter.
They said no, it wasn't field replaceable but then they came back and said they would offer a trade-in credit for units less than two years old. I would trade in my existing unit and they would apply that credit toward the new one(price not yet posted) with the improved inverter.
In general, I think that's good and I may do it depending on the price although I only have a couple items that haven't worked on the existing inverter. Happily the Vitamix works and makes fine margaritas so it's not an emergency situation.
You may want to dig into the details as the X-line comes out later this year to see if the depreciation curve is acceptable or not.

They also said the app was getting an upgrade.

from an online gadget site....
Goal Zero says that it has six Yeti X models in all lined up for 2020: the 200X, 500X, 1000X, 1500X, 3000X, and 6000X. We’ve already been introduced to the 200X, as it launched back in October. That’s the entry level model Goal Zero will stick with throughout 2020, and for the moment at least, we only know specific details about that one.
.
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At the top of the range is the 6000X, “the most powerful Yeti to date.” It’s designed to run critical home circuits for days at a time. The top three Yeti X models have been bumped from 1500W to 2000W AC inverters, suitable for powering most household appliances. They can also be charged twice as fast as previous models.
 

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Discussion Starter #76
Lots of great info since I started this thread. I ended up with 2 - GZ 1400‘s for the van. One located behind the drivers seat at the base of the kitchen galley. I use this to run the shurflo aqua king junior water pump, usb plug ins, and coffee maker. Maybe an induction top at times. Will charge off the HD alternator with the car link kit. I use the max 12 volt cable to tie into a blue seas fuse box which relays to A 12 volt switch block located on the galley to operate pump, lights, 2 usb, etc. I located the other GZ 1400 on top of the wheel well on the passenger side. My ARB fridge is located between the passenger wheel well and sliding door. The regulated 12volt cable is connected to the GZ 1400 and ARB fridge. This GZ 1400 is charged via 2 100 watt solar panels into the mppt port on the Yeti. I can access this yeti from the rear as well for running an air compressor or whatever. I have yet to test the car link charging from the alternator since the van interior isn’t finished yet. The 2 100 watt solar panels keep the other Yeti charged up with the ARB fridge running. I may end up wiring the Espar heater to this GZ as I don’t like it tying into the dual batteries. I’m afraid of draining the batteries in the middle nowhere And being stranded. I’m anxious to give the van a true test in June / July when everything should be completed. Still waiting on Transit wall bracers from Adventure wagon to put in a MOAB bed In the rear. I have a CCV pop top but there are times by myself I would sleep in the MOAB bed.
 
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