Ford Transit USA Forum banner

Goal Zero Yeti for house electrical?

89K views 225 replies 54 participants last post by  trentalexsender  
#1 ·
I keep looking at the new Goal Zero Yeti 1400 or 3000 lithium power generators and am thinking about putting one in my van for simple house battery power. The newer models are able to charge off the alternator with the addition of that Yeti Link/Tank module for $400. I’ve watched a few videos and have talked with GZ about this and am fairly impressed with the set up and charge rates when charging off alternator. I’ll be charging an ARB fridge, lights, phone, and heater. The van is an 2019 MR w/pop top 148” LB, HD alternator and dual batteries. the biggest draw back is the ability to charge off of solar very quickly. I was never planning on using solar anyway so for my situation the GZ May be a simple alternative as compared to a more complex, expensive system. Anyone else look at the Goal Zero 1400 or 3000 for their van power needs??
 
#2 ·
I am using a 1400 in my van. I have two 180W Grape solar panels for recharging.

This setup works very well for me. If I could afford it I would have gone for the 3000 for more battery.

Be sure to get the voltage regulator for your fridge if you will run it off 12V. Before I did that my fridge would turn off when the battery got below around 60%.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
#84 ·
I am using a 1400 in my van. I have two 180W Grape solar panels for recharging.

This setup works very well for me. If I could afford it I would have gone for the 3000 for more battery.

Be sure to get the voltage regulator for your fridge if you will run it off 12V. Before I did that my fridge would turn off when the battery got below around 60%.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
I'm wanting to pre wire my van before insulating , which Goal Zero cable did you use for your solar connection
thanks
 
#3 ·
If I didn’t have the pop top on the van I’d have solar panels installed. I also remember reading elsewhere about people having voltage problems with their Goal Zero 1400. I’m not sure what they were trying to power up. For the price of the 3000 unit plus link kit, one could buy a better stand alone system. Portability and ease of install is what you are paying for.
 
#6 ·
I have previously owned a Sportsmobile (E350 van conversion) without solar panels. The house AGM battery (8D) was charged by the alternator or by shore power.
This worked well for me and I suspect I'll do the same setup with the Transit.

Obviously the GZ unit should be sized to your load but in my case the 1400 would work fine.

My only concern with the GZ is the all in one design. If buttons or plugs fail, I'm not sure how easy it will be to get fixed. In a modular solution(DC-DC, monitor, battery, inverter) failed items can be diagnosed/fixed fairly quick.

I'd be interested to hear how it goes for you. Best of luck.
 
#7 ·
I have a Goal Zero Yeti 1400 lithium. Charged via 2 x 100 watts roof-mounted GZ panels, shore power, and 12v GZ car charger (cig lighter). Works very well. However, my load at the moment is minimal: Maxxair 7500, LP detector, phone charging, 12v lighting, charging 3 dog e-collars & remotes, charging 2-way radios, etc.

It will also power my 10,000 btu portable air conditioner for about 1.5 hours (you need to install a microair easystart 364 to bring the LRA (compressor start surge) down to what the GZ can handle.

I like the integrated solution of the GZ, they seem to have decent build quality. I'm looking to add a couple expansion tanks and YETI LINK CAR CHARGING KIT down the road.
 
#11 ·
I could mount 2 100w solar panels to the top of the pop top. I’m not sure how effective they would be as most of my travels are in the spring and fall when the sun angle in Montana is low with a lot of cloudy days. I’m sure it would act act as a maintainer but I can’t depend on it as a way to charge the battery’s. I’ve looked at portable solar panels but really don’t want to deal with hauling them around. If I use the link module to charge the car battery from the alternator I’m only left with the PWM input for charging with solar which would work but not nearly as effective as the MPPT input.
 
#12 ·
I have a 160W solar suitcase that exceeds my every expectation. My CTEK B2B charger handles charging on the road. When camping, I use the solar suitcase, which has its own controller and is wired directly into the house battery. If I return during the day, it takes 10 seconds to reposition the solar panel for max gain.
 
#14 · (Edited)
I have been using the GZ Lithium 1000 for the last two months. It has exceeded my expectations thus far using only a 160W Rich solar panel as a input. Here is a description of the setup, what I am running with it, and some of its flaws: https://www.fordtransitusaforum.com/camper-vans-conversions/76096-white-whale-moby-dick-build-5.html



I was originally going to purchase the the GZ lithium 1400 (1425Wh) model for the extra juice, but it is literally twice the cost of the GZ1000 (1048Wh). For the additional 377 watt hours the GZ14000 provides costs an additional ~$800-1000 more. That didn't make any sense to me. I picked up the GZ1000 model at REI for $850 with a coupon. I could buy two lithium 1000s at a total of 2096 watt hours for the cost of the 1425 Wh provided by the GZ1400.


So if I need additional juice in the future, I'll just buy another GZ1000, They are very small and easy to carry around or store.


Hope that helps.
 
#17 ·
Glad to see others using the GZ with good results. GZ recommends getting their voltage regulator cable when hooking up to a fridge. I like the idea of having 2 GZ units in the van. A GZ set up to charge off the alternator and one unit set up to charge off of 200w solar w/ the Victron mppt 100/30 solar controller that they sell to maximize the solar input. One on each side of the van so you don’t have to run wires across the van. Simple install and still reasonably priced when compared to a 200aH custom lithium setup. Maybe a Black Friday sale or REI coupon sale will happen soon.
 
#26 ·
On a side note; Goal Zero made the 1200 model specifically for Costco. I managed to pick up a 1200 on sale for about $100 off during their 4th of July sale.

If the 1200 works for you then you might check on Costco's website to see if there's a sale going on.

I don't live in my van and most of my outings are 3 days but so far it has had plenty of capacity running a fan, various lights, and charging phones, etc.

-Mike
 
#31 ·
Got the 20% off REI coupon. Now to decide on dual 1400’s or a 3000. Will definitely get the MPPT and or Car link charging unit, 25amp fast charge as well.

GZ states that on the 1400, charge from alternator with link kit is 450-750watts. How do you get the 750 watt charge from alternator???.......whereas the 3000 charges at 750 watts. Any idea how to get the max charge rate from alternator on the 1400?
 
#33 · (Edited)
Well, I am jumping in with both feet. I just ordered a 3000 Lithium. It seems Goal Zero is not able to keep up with demand for the power stations. The accessories are available, but the stations themselves are a bit hard to find. I snapped up this 3000 while I saw one in stock. I am planning to run it to a fuse box using the 40A max output accessory. I also plan to use the Link car charger, the 25A AC fast charger, and the Boulder 200 portable solar setup.

I would love to see how people are storing the Yeti. I plan to have mine on a sliding shelf behind a drawer, to make it easy to remove for storage or service access.
 
#34 ·
We’ve been running a GZ Yeti 3000 for over two years now. We drive ours via 400W solar input - no connection to the van electrical otherwise. Ive looked into options for using excess solar to charge the van batteries but I haven’t found a very clean way to do this. The Yeti works really well considering the variable environment in a van. Be prepared to take it inside when temps drop below approx 25F, and expect it to overheat when van temps hit 105F. The overheating results in a more intense fan noise.
 
#35 ·
My local upfitter mentioned that the reason he wouldn't recommend something like a Goal Zero is that when the batteries go out, you have to replace the whole thing. I think he said that the batteries usually last 3-5 years and are only a couple of hundred dollars to replace in a traditional build. I know he has a dog in the fight, but I have never felt like he has tried to pressure me to hire him over doing things myself.
 
#36 ·
Per the Yeti site, "On our Lithium power stations, we offer a battery replacement service (we don’t sell/ship the battery alone) and are currently working on publishing the process and costs. We anticipate it will cost 50% of the cost of replacing the entire unit and that will include shipping back and fourth."

If this thing dies in 3 years I will be displeased, but I find that unlikely. Also, according to my research, 280Ah of lithium batteries (the capacity of the 3000) will be a few thousand dollars, not a few hundred.