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Has anyone removed the front bumper cladding yet? I am going to mount some of these http://www.rigidindustries.com/led-lighting/50481 and need to find something solid to bolt too.

I may try to mount them in the recessed front step of the bumper, though if I get more ambitious, I might fab a light bar that goes just below the grill.

If anyone has any info on taking of the bumper cap, I'd appreciate it.

Also, has anyone connected to the Upfitter switches yet? I'm planning on triggering the relay for the light via an Upfitter switch.

Thanks,
JP
 

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I had the nose assembly off about a week ago. I'll try and give you a run down.
You need a T25 torx, a flatblade screwdriver or plastic trim tool, a 10mm socket, a 13mm socket and a drill with some drill bits to drill out two rivets.

You need to take off the license plate, then remove the license plate bracket by drilling out the two rivets that hold in on.
Under the bracket are two 13mm bolts in the bumper skin that you need to remove.

You will need to pop the hood and remove the 10mm bolts that hold the fascia and grill to the upper core support. Also pull all the push pins out. There are several push pins near the bolts.

Climb under the front end and pull the 10mm bolts along the bottom edge of the bumper skin.

Remove both front fender flares by removing the two torx screws. After the torx screws are removed the fender flare un-snaps. You can use your plastic trim tool to gently pry it off. Be careful not to break the Christmas tree fasteners. Now that the fender flares are off you can pull the four torx screws on the bumper skin at the edge of the wheel well. You can also pull the entire plastic bracket if you want to do it that way. I didn't.

Now the only thing holding on the entire front nose assembly is 4 snaps. The frame of the nose assembly snaps into the core support. You need to release these with a trim tool or screwdriver. The best way to see these is to pull the headlights but you don't need to. To see the top two you can gently pull on the skin above the grill where you pulled the push pins and look down behind the grill by the edge of the headlights. The other two to release are under the headlights. Just pull the skin back slightly on the bottom edge of the headlight closest to the grill and you will see them. If you're using a screwdriver I would pull the headlights so you don't scratch things up. If you're having trouble seeing what I'm trying to describe just pull the headlights.

Now the whole front nose assembly will be loose. On the way out you will need to pull the sides of the bumper skin over the lip where you removed the fender flares.

It's really not very time consuming or complicated and as you go it will probably begin to make sense without instructions.
 

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Exactly what I needed.

Just removed the rear bumper cover to install a backup sensor and wanted to install another one in the front bumper. I know that it's not a complicated job, but it helps to know where all the pins and clips are located!

Van Williams

PS You can watch my work on the backup sensor here.
 

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Van,


Nice video, visually explains what I can't get down and see. Now I know what is involved in the bumper area. Thanks.

Semper Fi
 

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I had the nose assembly off about a week ago. I'll try and give you a run down.
You need a T25 torx, a flatblade screwdriver or plastic trim tool, a 10mm socket, a 13mm socket and a drill with some drill bits to drill out two rivets. ...
Super helpful instructions, thank you! I wanted to replace the chrome grill with an all black one, and took photos along the way to add photos to your instructions in case it's helpful for anyone else. Looks like this has to go in two posts to get all the pictures in.

BEFORE & AFTER
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FOLLOWING HIS INSTRUCTIONS:
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147409


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continued in next post...
 

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I took mine off for the same reason. .. swapping grille, but also to add the van side of my hard mounted jumper cables (I'm a locksmith, I program car keys for cars that frequently have dead batteries).

A couple of months ago I searched this topic and wasn't super happy with the "just jerk on it" suggestions from the youtube gallery re: how to remove the grille so I spent $20 and got a 3 day pass to motorcraftservice and looked at the real deal ford instructions.

2 minute video below, which is now redundant thanks to the much more detailed pics from ATivan above.

 

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I took mine off for the same reason. .. swapping grille, but also to add the van side of my hard mounted jumper cables (I'm a locksmith, I program car keys for cars that frequently have dead batteries).
Great location for your jumper port. I added them to both our vans.
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2020 Ford Transit 148" High Roof Extended
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Super helpful instructions, thank you! I wanted to replace the chrome grill with an all black one, and took photos along the way to add photos to your instructions in case it's helpful for anyone else. Looks like this has to go in two posts to get all the pictures in.

BEFORE & AFTER
View attachment 147404 View attachment 147405

FOLLOWING HIS INSTRUCTIONS:
View attachment 147406 View attachment 147407

View attachment 147408 View attachment 147409

View attachment 147410 View attachment 147411

View attachment 147412 View attachment 147413

continued in next post...
Super helpful! Thanks so much! Will you share where you ordered the new grill and what the part number is?
 

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Super helpful! Thanks so much! Will you share where you ordered the new grill and what the part number is?
You bet. The black grill part number is
LK4Z-17B968-EA​
I just search for "ford part" and whatever the part number is in Google and pick the lowest cost supplier (usually a dealership somewhere). Who that is for any given part oddly seems to move around. I got the grill online from "AutoNation Ford White Bear Lake" for $229.59 including shipping and tax but for other parts most often DCH Ford of Eatontown or OnlineFordPartsCatalog has the cheapest price. Sometimes you get weird shipping prices, so it's worth a 5 min Google search. Funny - they all seem to use the same e-commerce backend system, but set it with different parts and shipping prices. 🤷‍♂️ Oh - and it's ALWAYS waaaaay cheaper to order online than from my local Ford dealer. They really gouge walk-in orders.
 

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You bet. The black grill part number is
LK4Z-17B968-EA​
I just search for "ford part" and whatever the part number is in Google and pick the lowest cost supplier (usually a dealership somewhere). Who that is for any given part oddly seems to move around. I got the grill online from "AutoNation Ford White Bear Lake" for $229.59 including shipping and tax but for other parts most often DCH Ford of Eatontown or OnlineFordPartsCatalog has the cheapest price. Sometimes you get weird shipping prices, so it's worth a 5 min Google search. Funny - they all seem to use the same e-commerce backend system, but set it with different parts and shipping prices. 🤷‍♂️ Oh - and it's ALWAYS waaaaay cheaper to order online than from my local Ford dealer. They really gouge walk-in orders.
Awesome! Thanks for the tip!
 
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