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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been meticulously documenting my van conversion as a reference tool for others, for them to know what every little step of a conversion really means and whether they might be able to do it.
Currently I'm working on the sub-floor and have just published part three of the installation.
I've been laying poly-iso boards between the ribs of the floor of my Ford Transit.





You can read about all the details, see photos and view the video here.


Or part 2: Paper Plywood Templates
Or part 1: Tie Downs & Wheel Wells

Enjoy!


Van Williams
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Hi and thanks! I'm having to buy a cargo van rather than a wagon (Transit) because of a certain option I need that I cannot obtain on the wagon.... I am wondering if the floor in the van is uneven as you are countering, or if it is now flat (on the 2017) and I had bee thinking about how to solve that problem if it is ribbed--so thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Not having seen the 2017 model yet, I doubt whether Ford will make any changes to the floor. My experiences with my 2016 T250 LWB MR are that the metal used in the walls, roof, floor and doors are relatively thin (probably because of weight restraints). The ribs in the floor (and roof) give more strength to the structure.
Because I have a medium high roof, I choose to fill up those 'rib cavities' with poly-iso and not compromise the standing height inside the van. Some fill it with plywood strips with insulation on top followed by the underlayment.

Have fun with your conversion and post some pictures if you can.

Van Williams
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
What is the height of the ribs compared to the surrounding floor?
Slightly less than 1/2 inch. I put 1/2" poly-iso in between and filled up with a spray foam including some on top of the ribs.

Van Williams
 

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Not having seen the 2017 model yet, I doubt whether Ford will make any changes to the floor. My experiences with my 2016 T250 LWB MR are that the metal used in the walls, roof, floor and doors are relatively thin (probably because of weight restraints). The ribs in the floor (and roof) give more strength to the structure.
Because I have a medium high roof, I choose to fill up those 'rib cavities' with poly-iso and not compromise the standing height inside the van. Some fill it with plywood strips with insulation on top followed by the underlayment.

Have fun with your conversion and post some pictures if you can.

Van Williams
I rechecked the specs on ordering the 2017 and it appears there is no way to have the rear cargo area floor covered with the vinyl! hahaha this has to be an oversight/typo omission and I have notified my salesman of same... and readjusted my draft order list to include it. Glad this thread was here or I might not have caught that on the order spec sheet.
 

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I put 11/32" strips of AC exterior plywood in the valleys of the floor.

 

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Is there any concern for squeaks with the hard foam under the floor? We prefer minicell closed cell polyethylene to fill the ribs and then a full layer. Minicell is used under dance floors for comfort and noise reduction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Is there any concern for squeaks with the hard foam under the floor? We prefer minicell closed cell polyethylene to fill the ribs and then a full layer. Minicell is used under dance floors for comfort and noise reduction.
As with all things, it's a balance between wants, can do's, price, properties and feasibility. I have no experience with the closed cell foam, but it will very likely have less issues with squeaks. In general I haven't heard of any major issues with poly-iso which is also much more affordable with afaik a higher R-value. In my case, I'm working with a medium roof Transit where I barely have an interior standing height available. Putting on an extra layer of insulation, may just compromise the height issue.

Van Williams
 

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been considering putting polyiso on floor-
going to put full sheets down and Not cut it up to fit floor bumps-
no wood fillers -

Easier and maybe less squeaking chance -

Not sure if it should be glued down ??

I have no clue if polyiso will hold up to foot traffic
and not turn into dust or goo ??

one thing that I have considered is
so far i've spent a lot of time
walking around on stock ford flooring pad W black plastic
and so far my feet have not hurt at all-

worn several types of shoes from crocs to good boots -
all good
crawling around was not good tho -

have some cardboard pieces on floor to catch mess also -

Years ago when I worked in a grocery store they changed floor
matts from hard plastic to thicker softer matt and new mats Killed my feet-
after a week or so of use decided to just remove new matt and stood on cement floor-
in a month ALL the new mats were replaced with old matts again -

So I was thinking 1/2 of 3/4 polyiso insulation against metal floor
then stock floor pad grey-
then a 5mm thick plywood sheet
then stock ford black plastic flooring --

will double ish stock floor thickness -

have not messed with floor yet and stock floor pad may be stuck
to black plastic so layer plan may have to change -

Any thoughts on my plan ??
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
First of all I don't have Ford's black plastic flooring, so I cannot advise you on that, but I'm sure someone else will be kicking in and give you an answer on that.

I think Poly-Iso is perfect for this application. You don't often hear about squeaking, but just in case, I use the spray glue for that. I wouldn't worry too much.

(My) Common sense tells me, that long term the chance of sagging is likely to happen and that will cause the entire floor and everything on it to move. Yuck. Whether it's wood, insulation or an other material, I would seriously consider to fill these voids.

Reusing Ford's plastic floor is a good idea and if you have a high roof model or you are very short, a full sheet of Poly-Iso on top will give you perfect insulation. I have a medium roof and have not much interior height to spare, so I reluctantly left out this step.

The 5mm ply depends on your application. I used ½ inch plywood because I want to secure all the cabinets to the floor. I even prefer ¾ inch ply, but the extra weight is also a consideration.

It's probably not the perfect answer, but you catch my drift?

Van Williams
 

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I am going with the 1in x 1-1/2 plywood strips glued to the ribs. this will be followed with 1-1/2 owens XPS in between. Word of advice here, when cutting the XPS, cut it smaller the the width of the valleys then foam the difference. Otherwise there is a lot of time consuming custom fitting. This all will be covered with 1/2 plywood. Is squeeking going to be an issue.......?
 
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