Ford Transit USA Forum banner

1 - 20 of 33 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
584 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
It was very, very simple, just like an oil change should be. I did drive it onto a small wooden ramp that I screwed together. It seems that as the years go by, they make the rigs closer to the ground. Anymore, I have such a hard time rolling under them.

So the ramps got the front tires up about 3 inches which was enough room to do everything. I went in from behind the drivers side tire with my drain pan. The plug takes a 13 MM wrench. I loosened it and as I was screwing it out, there was more resistance than there should have been, until I noticed that the sealing Oring was stuck to the pan and I was threading it through that. Since I know that Murphy is always lurkingand I didn't want the Oring to fall into the oil pan as soon as I pulled, the plug, I worked it loose so it would come of when -I- wanted it to.

The oil filter was close enough that once the initial gush of oil was over, I could slide the pan over and continue to catch that oil while also catching the oil from the oil filter. Apparently, at the South Africa plant where they build the engines, they don't believe in putting any lube on the oil filter seal because it squeaked like it was dry. I am using the NAPA Gold oil filter number 7502.

Here is a picture of everything under there:



Put everything back together and tighten the drain plug and it's back on top to fill the oil. I am using Rotella T6 in this and it takes 3 gallons. One thing that I was careful of is filling the oil. Normally, I just pour it in unaided, but with that funky, flexible engine cover thingie, I decided to use a funnel. I happened to have the perfect funnel for the job. It is a Flo Tool Big mouth Funnel Part # 10713. It fit in the fill hole snugly so it wouldn't flop over as I was filling it, it is short enough that I don't have to reach up high to pour in the oil, and it has a big mouth so it fills quickly without having to feather it in to avoid spillage.

I then checked the oil level before starting it. Yes, I do this every time I change the oil. Even though I just put the oil in, I pull the dipstick and make sure I didn't do something stupid like forget to put the plug in. Not that I have ever done that (this week) but it's just a good habit. Then it's into the drivers seat, turn on the key and start the engine. I then watch to be sure the oil light goes off within 10 seconds, back it off of the ramps and shut it down.

I let it sit for a few minutes and recheck the oil. Perfect level, so I note the mileage, put it in the maintenance book, figure when the next LOF will be (at 10,000 miles, then every 10,000 after that) and put that in my book and on a window sticker and I'm done.

The only heartache I had was that the oil drips onto the crossmember as the drain pan finishes draining and as it comes out of the filter. I am thinking about something I have seen someplace. It's a flexible, moldable plastic thing that will drape over the cross member and direct the oil where I want it to go. HERE.

Of course there is more to servicing the van than just changing the oil and filter. There are level checks, brake checks, tire checks, light checks. Yeah. Alot of other stuff that I do while the oil is draining.

I will be changing the fuel filter at the next LOF and I will determine if I can go to 20,000 mile interval. With the small amount of fuel that this thing uses, I bet 20,000 will be just fine.

Edit: I forgot that with the bigger tires, it was actually about 5100 miles.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
640 Posts
Whitedog:

Did you fill the oil filter with oil before screwing on?

Done a lot of car work, I head for the kitchen and tear off a piece of aluminum foil and make a down hill drain so the oil does not drip on the cross member.

5000 miles, how much DEF have you used (per tank size in a Transit)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
584 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I have heavy foil I use when I want to cap off something, but I prefer reusable device. I have used filter boxes and lots of stuff, but I like the looks of this funnel thing.

I don't prefill the filter. The first place the oil goes after it leaves the filter is the engine. If there is any contaminates in the oil, and the oil goes in the clean side of the filter, then those contaminates go into the engine. If there are contaminates in the oil and I put it in the pan, the first place it goes is the pump, then the filter which will catch it.

Same thing with the fuel filter.

Thank you for the reminder on the DEF. I put in right at 4.5 gallons with about 5100 miles. So I think that I can figure 1% of the fuel. It's actually just under 1%, but for estimating costs, I like to go a bit high.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
584 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Fuel filter change

Well, I did the first fuel filter change on Saturday. What a pain. I didn't do a very good yob, so I'm not going to do a write up yet, but give me five weeks and I'll change it again after another 10,000 miles. I will then go to 20,000 mile intervals.

One of the problems is turning the filter housing. There isn't a hex on the bottom, there is just a bunch of fins on the side of the housing. THe outer diameter of the housing only turn about 2 inches from lock to unlock so it has to have a pretty hefty detent and it has to compress the seal in that little bit of a turn. All of that makes it very difficult to turn. I am trying to find a specific tool at Ford for doing this. Since I have to change the filter 5-6 times a year, it will be worth it to me.

The big thing that I may have screwed up is that the filter twists and snaps into place. But there is a specific orientation for it. On top of the filter is an arrow and there are arrows on the filter housing. I didn't notice this until afterwards.



Notice the three ears. They slip up into the housing, then it turns and locks then the cover goes over it.

On only one of the ears do you see this:



In the top of the cover, there is a shape that I think grabs this little piece and removes the filter as you open the cover.

It's confusing, I know. I will get pictures of everything next time and that will help explain it better.

If you do change the filter before then take note of one important thing: be sure to drain it first.:blush:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,396 Posts
Draining

NOTE: Drain fluid into a suitable container.

Turn the drain plug counter clockwise to open. (2 turns)


Turn the ignition to the ON position. Wait for a minimum of 5 seconds, this purges the water and fuel from the filter.

Tighten the drain plug and remove the container.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,396 Posts
Bleeding (to be done after filter element change)

Turn the ignition key to the ON position. Wait for 30 seconds.

Start the engine and hold at 1500 rpm.

Wait for 20 seconds.

If the engine is running smoothly, reduce the rpm to idle speed.

Check for fuel leaks.

Switch the engine off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
584 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I topped off the DEF today after 6530 miles. I added right at 4 gallons. The last time I filled till I spilled and I did the same this time. At our cost of $1.67 per gallon that is a cost of $6.68.

That's one tenth of a penny per mile.

In post three I said I put in 4.5 gallons after 5100 miles. I will continue to monitor.

The dash said that we were less than half full of DEF.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
Hey Whitedog: Where are you buying DEF for $1.67 and hat's your mpg so far?


Epps
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
584 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
We buy a 55 gallon barrel. Two buses running a total of 200,000 miles a year plus the bosses truck is enough to justify it. So let's say you can buy it at twice our price. That still is only .002 cents per mile. For someone running 20,000 miles per year that's like $40 a year. Still insignificant.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
584 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
As for the mileage, the monthly bill is due this week so I will lean on the bossman to let me peek at it to see how much fuel we used.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
584 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
The last time I topped off the DEF was at 20,235 miles. Yesterday the Low light came on and it told the driver that it had 500 miles left. After about 160 miles, it showed we had 235 miles left. So the DEF left is just a guess. If you get to the point of 500 miles left, assume that you have 250 miles left.

This time I added about 5.5 gallons of DEF at 29,254 miles So call it 5.5 gallons in 9000 miles... figuring 19.5 MPG, that is about 1% of the fuel used.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
584 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Still trying to figure out this fuel filter change. I mean, I got it done and it's right, but it wasn't easy. I think the thing to do is line up the arrows on the filter and the housing and stick it up there then turn it Clockwise looking up. Then line up the arrows on the cover and the housing and push and shove the cover up there, then turn it clockwise until it clicks.

The pushing and shoving was the physically hardest part to do. I am putting this down so that the next time, I have something to reference to hopefully make it easier.

The filter had about 20,000 miles on it and looking at it, I would it consider that the longest I want to run them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,396 Posts
Still trying to figure out this fuel filter change. I mean, I got it done and it's right, but it wasn't easy. I think the thing to do is line up the arrows on the filter and the housing and stick it up there then turn it Clockwise looking up. Then line up the arrows on the cover and the housing and push and shove the cover up there, then turn it clockwise until it clicks.

The pushing and shoving was the physically hardest part to do. I am putting this down so that the next time, I have something to reference to hopefully make it easier.

The filter had about 20,000 miles on it and looking at it, I would it consider that the longest I want to run them.
Installation is reverse
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,282 Posts
How much does Ford get for a fuel filter element? Are there any aftermarket ones out yet?
On my 96 Powerstroke I got really tired of the ridiculous filter prices- so I added a prefilter with a much lower cost element- that greatly extended the interval of the OEM filter change.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,299 Posts
How much does Ford get for a fuel filter element? Are there any aftermarket ones out yet?
On my 96 Powerstroke I got really tired of the ridiculous filter prices- so I added a prefilter with a much lower cost element- that greatly extended the interval of the OEM filter change.
I bought the Ford Motorcraft oil and filter at Autozone. The filter was about $6. I see the manual shows that all three engines use the same oil filter.

EDIT - oops, sorry. I thought we were talking oil filters.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
584 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
How much does Ford get for a fuel filter element? Are there any aftermarket ones out yet?
On my 96 Powerstroke I got really tired of the ridiculous filter prices- so I added a prefilter with a much lower cost element- that greatly extended the interval of the OEM filter change.
It should run you $35-$40. Look up part number CC1Z-9365-A. Note that there seems to be a build date split, so don't rely on that part number to be correct for all applications.
 
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
Top