[Rolf]

Yes I got the fairing mounted , also any increased wind noise with the rack on is
really low , I really don‘t notice much difference at all

 

[atoine]

The rack looks really nice, and I can see the appeal of it. But, I think your old approach was better in one way - aero drag and MPG.
Gary

Defining what's the "better" solution depends on one's needs and requirements.

• If MPG is the priority then yes, I agree, my previous layout was better (no rack and the panels located in the back).
• If convenience is the priority (no need to carry a portable ladder, easy access, easy accessories install), then I like the roof rack better.

Same with the All-Terrain tires. They add drag and increase MPG, but I need the traction in snow and dirt.

Vans are huge and heavy, not exactly a fuel efficient vehicle Speed is probably the biggest variable that we can control; slowing down on highways has a huge impact on MPG with any vehicle, most likely even more with vans. Tested: Speed vs fuel economy

Thanks for all your tests Gary, I'm a big fan

 

[Bajabound]

Sorry, no delete option.

 

[Bajabound]

The T&G are a PITA to finish and install, no arguing here. But I really like the look & feel of it. I'm a big fan of "solid wood" rather than plywood. So to me it was worth the trouble, but of course that's totally subjective.
A friend of mine started making van commercially (Onyx Van), he used to be an Aircraft Interior Designer. He C&C EVERYTHING and can assemble an entire van faster than I can make one cabinet haha. The end result is pretty amazing too.
Making C&C files is really something I'd be into (I love doing CAD), but I wonder how "normal" people would really go this route and have access to a C&C shop? Food for thoughts, thanks...

I did a google search of "cnc wood cutting service near me" and found plenty of options within 100 miles. This may not be the norm across the US and Canada, but it seems plenty of "normal people" have 1 off wood cutting needs that are beeing met on C&C machines. It would not be difficult to find, pre-qualify, and list C&C service providers in larger city markets across the USA and Canada.

 

[vandownbytheriver]

We've been running the KO2s (LT255/70R16) since day 1 back in 2016 and they never let us down, so obviously the new van is getting the same treatment . We had the stock wheels on our previous van, but this time we decided to splurge on the Method MR703 wheels (16x6.5, 6x180 bolt pattern, 90 offset). VERY happy about how this combo looks 🤤 No trimming or lift required.

Hey Atoine - Thanks for all the years of great content. How much did the road noise increase with the KO2s? Did your gas mileage decrease? noticeable change in handling? How many miles are you getting out of them? do you run them all year round? I live in the mountains and drive mountain passes that get a lot of snow in the winter but don't really want to keep an extra set of snow tires in the garage all year round. The stock connies drive great in the summer but I hear they suck in the snow :-(

 

[atoine]

Hey Atoine - Thanks for all the years of great content. How much did the road noise increase with the KO2s? Did your gas mileage decrease? noticeable change in handling? How many miles are you getting out of them? do you run them all year round? I live in the mountains and drive mountain passes that get a lot of snow in the winter but don't really want to keep an extra set of snow tires in the garage all year round. The stock connies drive great in the summer but I hear they suck in the snow :-(

The KO2 are all-terrain tires, so expect road noise increase. To be honest the noise is really not that bad when they're new, but the noise increases as they wear out. That being said, I don't mind it.
Handling is great. Didn't measure gas mileage different, but then again they're A/T tires so expect gas mileage decrease. I run them all year long, we used them a lot in the snow and we discuss about that here: faroutride.com/winter-vanlife. Stock tires definitely aren't great in snow.

cheers

 

[atoine]

LAGUN TABLE MOUNT

I've seen a few versions of bracket to mount Lagun Table to the B-Pillar, but I really wanted to take advantage of the new "Sliver" bracket which has a much smaller footprint:

So I went ahead and designed my own mount:

The factory hole are threaded on the passenger side (M6), the driver side requires M8 rivet-nuts with M8 screws:

I knew from others that there is some wobbling with this method, but it's a compromise I can live with. I really like how it turned out!

I've made an extra 50 mount plates, which are up for grab until I run out. The passenger side includes 2 x M6 flanged button head screws, the driver side includes 2 x M8 rivet-nuts and 2 x M8 screws:

• Lagun Mount Plate (Aluminum, Matte Black)
• Lagun Table System (with Sliver bracket)
• Bamboo Tabletop

Using the material above, it takes just a few minutes to install. Small job but I'm happy it's done!

Other than that, I've documented the whole thing here (including how to switch the Lagun handle side): faroutride.com/lagun-table

Cheers!
Antoine

 

[cycle61]

Oh man, I was not aware they had come out with a new bracket! We ran into that exact same issue, the stock one mounted to the passenger B-pillar intruded into some high-traffic 3D space too much.

 

[dhagberg]

Looks great, @atoine ! Could you talk a bit about the Wobbling that you mention? Is the Silver mount more subject to deformation in particular directions?

 

[atoine]

Oh man, I was not aware they had come out with a new bracket! We ran into that exact same issue, the stock one mounted to the passenger B-pillar intruded into some high-traffic 3D space too much.

I found about the new Sliver bracket just in time! This bracket makes much more sense.

Looks great, @atoine ! Could you talk a bit about the Wobbling that you mention? Is the Silver mount more subject to deformation in particular directions?

The wobbling comes from the B-Pillar, it allows some movement. So a stiffer mount plate wouldn't help (the sliver vs regular bracket doesn't make a difference either). I tried to capture the wobbling at 1:50 and 2:00 in this video:

Some people fabricated mount plates large enough to pick up the third fastener at the bottom of the B-Pillar, I'm sure the final result is stiffer, but these mount plates are HUGE. Personally I prefer a smaller bracket and I'm OK with the wobble.

 

[cycle61]

ModVans has a mounting plate with a bent extension that reaches over to the seat pillar. It's rock solid and sits out of the way, but they don't sell it as a separate product.

 

[Captadv]

I made a plywood bracket for my Laguna "smaller" mount it was wobbly too. I then extended it down to the floor and the wobble was eliminated.

(I'd post a photo but Tapatalk is failing.)


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

 

[gregoryx]

Since it seems this is already on the tangent... this design doesn't wobble. I think it's the bottom that matters - grabbing the big bolt-hole. Hefty 1/4" aluminum plate. All I know is... no wobble. I wonder how much less intrusive it could be with that new "silver" mount plate. 🤔

 

[Captadv]

Here's my plywood bracket I mentioned earlier.
As you can see, I can still swivel the seat as well and we have a back of the seat storage organizer on as well.

 

[Knarfly]

Since it seems this is already on the tangent... this design doesn't wobble. I think it's the bottom that matters - grabbing the big bolt-hole. Hefty 1/4" aluminum plate. All I know is... no wobble. I wonder how much less intrusive it could be with that new "silver" mount plate. 🤔

Bottom hole definitely helps the wobble, but it's a lot harder to get to for us Passenger van guys. Good news is the sliver mount will match the two outer bolt holes of the original mount although it would change where the table leg lies a couple inches, but would be good for testing it.

 

[atoine]

Thanks guys for sharing your design/input! It's nice to see different options 😀

 

[Travelvanproject]

Atoine, I just bought your Floor plan and Layout files to start my own project. Decided to buy a Transit AWD 148WB HR EXT, instead of a Ram, after learning from your website. Thanks for sharing your experience and designs. Plan to have a 4 season van with recirculating shower, hydronic heating, above floor black tank, 48V electric system, and smart control. Hope to be able to share my design as well.

 

[atoine]

VICTRON SHUNT ENCLOSURE/COVER

Maybe it's a solution to a problem that isn't really a problem for most people, but personally seeing all these exposed connections/terminals make me a bit uncomfortable.
When we initially made our electrical system back in 2016, we had NO incident (we were VERY careful). Then a few years later when upgrading to Lithium batteries, I made a short between the battery's positive terminal and the shunt with my wrench (what are the odds?!). The root cause was 100% overconfidence, I didn't really take the time to think about was I was doing (because it all went so well the first time!). I kept the partially-melted wrench as a reminder for the next time...

So instead of actually working on the van lately (...), I spent the last few days making an enclosure for Victron's Shunts:

Dozens of iterations later (thanks god 3D printing is cheap!), here is what I came up with:

1- Enclosure for 500A/50mV Victron Shunt (standard shunt included with the BMV-712, BMV-702, BMV-700 battery monitors)
faroutride.com/product/victron-shunt-enclosure

Before / After:

2- Enclosure for 500A/50mV Victron SmartShunt (IP21 non-waterproof)
faroutride.com/product/victron-smartshunt-enclosure

Before / After:

Both enclosures are comprised of 2 parts. The bottom part is held in place with the mounting screws and the top part is friction fit with the M10 top terminal screws:

I think I prefer having a physical screen, so I'd most likely go for the BMV-712 in my van, but I did both just in case.

The material I used is a blend of PC/PETG which has 230F (110C) temperature resistance. That's on-par with marine cable temperature rating (105C).

That was a LOT of time spent on a tiny problem, but I really love doing that kind of stuff so that's OK 😄

Cheers,
Antoine

 

[gregoryx]

... but... just to be sure... said short would be the same to any metal surface on the van, right? 🤔

Though I'm entirely on board with spending my time on something interesting that isn't actually on my "productive" list. Hence... I'm on this forum when I have a many things on my "to do" list... 🤣

 

[atoine]

... but... just to be sure... said short would be the same to any metal surface on the van, right? 🤔

Agree, but the chance of making a short is MUCH higher in the electrical cabinet (because most components are gathered there with + and - terminals). Rarely I walk around in the van with a hot wire in my hand 😅