[Dotar]

YWIMC @antoin

Only two wishes for improvement: a guard around the test button; easier access to the reset lever

i cut a scrap piece of 12mm birch ply to fit closely to the floor and connected with a flathead bolt to a Jack nut inserted into the b-pillar.

 

[DrkGrn]

Younger folks like videos more than old people. Go with the future, not the past.

 

[FishHog]

Younger folks like videos more than old people. Go with the future, not the past.

Well I must be old, but endless rambling about nothing in a 20min video before getting to the 30sec point drives me insane. I never play a video all the way through, and normally adjust the speed to 1.5 times to speed up the process.

Videos can have their place, but too many people just like to hear themselves talk. I much perfer the FOR website than almost any video I've seen. Clear pics and short write ups of what they show is way more effective for me.

FOR was a great motivator for my conversion a few years ago and I gained a lot from it.

 

[DrkGrn]

Well I must be old

Not a function of video so much ... more of function of being bad. Plenty of examples of bad, run-on text out there.

 

[atoine]

Only two wishes for improvement: a guard around the test button; easier access to the reset lever

I changed the design a few weeks ago, because people were asking for an easier access to the reset lever:

more angles: faroutride.com/enclosure

But then the test button is even more exposed... Only one wish granted to you! 😄
Let me know if you'd like the new version instead, I can work something out.

Thanks for the photo!
Antoine

 

[Brandon]

I changed the design a few weeks ago, because people were asking for an easier access to the reset lever:

more angles: faroutride.com/enclosure

But then the test button is even more exposed... Only one wish granted to you! 😄
Let me know if you'd like the new version instead, I can work something out.

Thanks for the photo!
Antoine

Is it 3D printed?
if it is can you buy the Print file?

 

[cycle61]

I would happily drop a few bucks for that file instead of designing my own.

 

[atoine]

Is it 3D printed?
if it is can you buy the Print file?

I would happily drop a few bucks for that file instead of designing my own.

It's 3D printed. I share my other 3D Print Files, but this one is pretty tricky. It took me dozens of iterations to make it work for me, and changing just a small parameter or using a cheap less accurate printer (I'm using a Prusa 3D Printer) could be problematic (for the snap-fit to work, or for the tabs to fit into the slots). Also, using a high-temperature resistant material is crucial (I'm using a blend of PC/PETG, resists up to 110°C), and this material is more prone to warping if not printed in a correct environment.
That's why I haven't shared this file specifically... Also I invested too much time and effort, only to see it uploaded on Thingyverse...

 

[CapHillBBQ]

Hi - Just want to add these points.

• Thanks so much for you help. Your all web site was the inspiration for our build. I followed it for a year and then used it as our main guide. And thanks to you o
  ur van is working great. We have been in it for 7 months so far this year. I wrote my build up here.
• Van Build - High Roof, AWD, 350, LWB - AKA "Tony"
• I think you have the right idea on video vs written content. Mostly written content is so much easier to get the main idea. But then go back again and again to for the one or two key details. However some times a short video can really show the process.
• Attached are some fuzzy pictures of our use of your 3D printed fuse cover. After installing the fuxe cover. I then cut a trough in the floor and ran the cable in a safe manner.

 

[Brandon]

It's 3D printed. I share my other 3D Print Files, but this one is pretty tricky. It took me dozens of iterations to make it work for me, and changing just a small parameter or using a cheap less accurate printer (I'm using a Prusa 3D Printer) could be problematic (for the snap-fit to work, or for the tabs to fit into the slots). Also, using a high-temperature resistant material is crucial (I'm using a blend of PC/PETG, resists up to 110°C), and this material is more prone to warping if not printed in a correct environment.
That's why I haven't shared this file specifically... Also I invested too much time and effort, only to see it uploaded on Thingyverse...

Totally understand and I’m going to order 1.

 

[johnfox123]

I changed the design a few weeks ago, because people were asking for an easier access to the reset lever:

more angles: faroutride.com/enclosure

But then the test button is even more exposed... Only one wish granted to you! 😄
Let me know if you'd like the new version instead, I can work something out.

Thanks for the photo!
Antoine

Instead of a circuit breaker, why not put an in-line 150a (or 100a) fuse at the CCP2 stud (which could be located inside the seat enclosure) and then install a switch next to the Orions? The two Orion 30's should never blow the fuse, and since the CCP2 is rated to 175a, it should cover the current draw. Then you don't have to worry about wires being exposed or a box mounted to the back of the seat that might get kicked.

I do love the box cover though. Nice work!

 

[Tim&Katie]

3 main reasons why I'm waiting for the B2L (instead of the B4L):

1. During development, Espar claimed the AS3 would do well up to 18,000 feet. That's quite impressive and thought this would end altitude problems for good. However I've seen 10,000 feet lately on a few websites, so I'm not sure if they revised the numbers after testing. TBD.
2. Coking. I'm worried the B4L will be more prone to carbon deposit because it'll run a lower settings.
3. Installation under passenger seat. I really enjoyed that in our first van, I think it's the perfect location for our configuration (permanent bed in the back, with center alley in the "kitchen"). It doesn't use garage's real estate, sucks the cold air in the cabin, it keeps the floor warm in the living area, and shoots hot air directly at my feet when I take my coffee in the morning 😁

First off, great to see you guys are building a new van and I look forward to following your progress on here and on IG/FB. Thought I'd reply to a couple of your comments along this thread:

I'm just finishing up a Espar M2 B4L install under the passenger seat of our new 2022 Transit - it's a tight fit but certainly doable. I am hoping to put together a video of the process as I couldn't find any detailed resources on it. Coking is certainly the primary concern - espar refutes this as being an issue if properly installed but I think it's a good point to monitor and keep in mind.

I agree with your thoughts on the victron DC to DC chargers - personally I'm sticking with the CTEK Smartpass 120S and D250SE combo again, but will be waiting to learn more about the upcoming sterling units and see if they have the same overheating and derating issues.

Lastly - I completely agree about the advantages of using separate, controllable circuit breakers over a lynx distributor

Cheers and happy building.

 

[skTransit]

Like many others, I would like to thank faroutride for their detailed, build web site. It has been very helpful for our build.

FWIW regarding putting a B4L under the passenger seat. We added a two inch riser/adapter to the heater base which made positioning the heater easier and allows one to remove/install the heater from the top side and also allows enough room to leave the jack under the seat. ( details are mentioned in thread "Positioning of heater - do people really put it in the passenger seat base?!?")

Regardless, in this case, smaller could be better;-) and it will be interesting to hear how the B2L works out.

Again thank you for all the detailed information, take care, s.

 

[GotDiesel?]

I went all Victron 3000 watt Multiplus inverter/convertor, dual Orion DC-DC chargers to take advantage for the 250 amp alternator and dual 200Ah Victron lithium. I pre-wired for solar while I had the walls open, but really never had any intention of adding panels on the roof. If I drive for a few hours at least every 3 or 4 days I always have enough battery power. I went for simplicity and reliability and this setup is just that. Plus I had a lot of help from AM Solar in Springfield, Oregon. They not only have a good number of friendly and knowledgable techs to consult with, they provided a complete install schematic and are only two hours South of where I live. So I drove down there and had them review my install before I powered everything up. That gave me a lot of confidence when they didn't see anything that needed to be revised. After a little over a year it has been absolutely worry and maintenance free. I wouldn't change anything about it. I wasn't trying save any money, though. That's obvious.

 

[khangaldinho]

Just wanted to drop in and say THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU for your website!! It has helped us so much with our build and really couldn’t have done it without your well-written posts. Currently doing the propane system right now and your website has been crucial! We also purchased the circuit breaker cover and it’s great!

Best wishes on this next journey and keep up the great work!

 

[orton]

.

We wanted to try making videos for the upcoming build, but turns out it's a nightmare for us. THAT BEING SAID, do people even read anymore? The traffic on our website definitely declined, so we're missing our for sure by not making videos... I'm open to suggestions/comments!

I was forced to do a web site because when this site was started, they did not allow pictures or drawings

The number of hits and comments has also declined dramatically. Might be the nature of web sites?

The video on the site was easy to get done. A friend somehow made contact with Kirsten Dirksen. She and her husband travel around the world doing videos of interesting small homes. Their income comes from the adverting on the videos. I called her and at that time she happened to be located about 15 miles from my house. They came over that day for a couple of hours and did the video and a month later she had done all the editing for the video and posted it.

No cost and a couple hours of my time.

With the Sprinter build I just posted all the information on the Sprinter site. I have found having a web site saves me a lot of time. If I think I can add some useful information to someone's post it is easy just to link to that information on the web site. Do not have to spend time retyping on every post.

Have fun with the second conversion. We learn from the first and make improvements on the second. Never ending learning curve. I had my own engineering consulting and fabricating business for 40 years and my second try at a product was always an improvement compared to the first.

 

[T22A80]

I can't wait to follow along the new build. I've referenced your site many times. Thank you!

 

[GaryBIS]

ROOF RACK

We didn't install a roof rack on our previous van and it worked quite well, but there are a few drawbacks of not having a roof rack:

• We had to carry a portable ladder for when we needed to access the roof (clean the solar panels from dust or snow). It takes some real estates in the garage, it's easy to damage the van when climbing, and the process is more annoying.
• Harder to attach equipment to the roof (solar panels, LED lights, Maxtrax, etc.).

Also, roof rack options were MUCH MORE LIMITED back in 2016-2017... Fast forward today and there are DOZENS of option on the market . We've been watching over the years and we really like what Flatline Van Co came up with, so we decided to give it a try:

View attachment 180985

It ships in multiple boxes, so it's quite easy to handle (it's not a single piece). It bolts to the threaded holes on the roof:

The install process is honestly quite simple!

• Time: About 4-6 hours.
• Cost: $1,995 (rack) + $695 (ladder)
• Added Weight: 95 lbs (extended-length model).
• Material: FVC Low Pro Roof Rack
• Resources: Roof Rack Installation Ford Transit

Hi,
Great to see that you guys are doing a new build - I will follow it with great interest.

The rack looks really nice, and I can see the appeal of it. But, I think your old approach was better in one way - aero drag and MPG.

This is a test I did comparing two roof configurations on my van which turn out to be pretty close to your old van and your new van and it shows about a 2 MPG penalty. Your rack looks a bit cleaner than the one I tested, so you may see less of a penalty. But, the ladder will add a bit more.

Gary

 

[Rolf]

I got a few thousand miles now on with the new flatline low profile rack and the mpg hit
has been low so far , went from 17 avg to 16.7 avg going by the mpg computer , this
all close to home trips 40 to 60 mph type driving maybe the hit will be bigger once I
go on longer interstate trips where the the avg mph will be around 70 .after I installed
the maxx air no difference.
doing the same trip to the coast and fill up gas tank same place on way out and
when I get home the fuel needle is about the same position as before the rack went on
about 180 mile round trip.
It will be interesting to see what happens when I get my two solar panels
on ?

 

[GaryBIS]

I got a few thousand miles now on with the new flatline low profile rack and the mpg hit
has been low so far , went from 17 avg to 16.7 avg going by the mpg computer , this
all close to home trips 40 to 60 mph type driving maybe the hit will be bigger once I
go on longer interstate trips where the the avg mph will be around 70 .after I installed
the maxx air no difference.
doing the same trip to the coast and fill up gas tank same place on way out and
when I get home the fuel needle is about the same position as before the rack went on
about 180 mile round trip.
It will be interesting to see what happens when I get my two solar panels
on ?

Hi,
Do you have the forward fairing on your rack?

I'm not a believer in these front of rack fairings. They look really cool, but the airflow in this area probably the highest velocity airflow on the van and its trying to stay attached to the van as it rounds the corner from the windshield area onto the roof. I'm sure Ford engineers put a whole lot of effort into getting the transition just right to keep the airflow attached and avoid a lot of drag that comes from separation. Adding the "fairing" not only increases frontal area, but pretty much guarantees separation at the back edge of the fairing.

Someone with one of these fairings could do a test with and without the fairing similar to the one I did in a couple hours and it would show what the effect of these fairings on MPG actually is. These tests have to be done very carefully to get good results, but its not really that hard.
I plan to repeat my test with and without the front fairing one of these days.

Gary